DBD1

So nearly 30 years after being introduced to and barely starting to learn this hobby, I am back. I have been hooked ever since I was first introduced but time and space did not really allow my full participation. Now that I have been able to settle down I am looking forward to every aspect of it.

I have set up a small shop in half of a single garage bay. I purchased a Sig Kadet Mk II to re-learn on and a Kavalier as a second kit to progress on. I also purchased an OS 35 AX to power the Kadet, the Kavalier motor will have to wait.

This will be a slow build, especially getting started as I have many questions and like to think things through to formulate an over-all master plan so I don't box myself into a corner. Many questions to follow......

DBD1

My small modest shop. I have enough tools to get started but will need to slowly add to it.

DBD1

The new OS engine has quite a bit of oil on the exterior. I would like to clean it off before I run it so it does not burn it on. What method / chemical should I use for exterior engine cleaning?

DBD1

I have carefully read through the directions and just need to decide on the regular windshield or the simplified version. Any of you guys who have built this kit please chime in and post photos.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

First cover the intake and exhaust ports. Then I use a light spray of automotive break cleaner on the outside followed by adding some after engine run oil to the intake and turning the engine over to get the oil all the way into the bearings. My favorite is Marvel Mystery Oil for air tools.

By the way I have subscribed and I'm in OKC too! Are you in a club?

DBD1

I am not in a club yet, I need to get my AMA and decide between the TORKS or the West Side Flyers in Yukon. I have not been to any meetings nor met anyone from either yet.
Thanks for the advice on the engine cleaning

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Get Les Barry to take you out to Westside's field when you are ready. He is our former AMA Assistance VP for this district and he flies all the time over there. I keep my AMA up whether I'm flying or not, you see some really interesting stuff in their magazine sometimes. Let me know if you want some back issues before I toss them out.

DBD1

Thanks for the info. I would take you up on the magazines if you are going to toss them anyway, the last ones I have read were the old RCM's from the late 80's!

DBD1

The other thing I wanted to get figured out relatively early ( so I can get input and opinions before it's too late ) is the covering / finishing media to use. The GP Trainer 20 I built in the mid 80's I covered with Monokote (sp?), anyways it turned out Okay but not as durable as I would like, it became brittle and did not stand up to hangar rash very well. With what I have read about the Monokote now days I really don't want to use it or any other wrinklecote product, so that leaves painting as the alternative.

I know I will pay a weight penalty but with proper application I think it can be kept to a minimum. I know some folks may say latex with a fuel proof clear or automotive paint is the way to go. It may be for the more experienced builder which I am not. I want to keep it relatively simple.

I have read a lot of threads concerning painting here on RCU and have gleaned a bit of insight but by no means have the answers to all of my specific questions which I will address in subsequent posts.

The direction I am leaning towards is to cover with Sig Koverall and nitrate dope and finish with colored butyrate dope or Klass Cote epoxy paint. The color scheme is predominately white with red accents and black trim stripe (tape).

Specific questions to follow...............

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You could go with Coverite its very durable and then paint it with latex followed by a fuel proof top coat?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I don't keep them too much clutter drives the wife crazy let me know when you want to pick them up.

DBD1

Since the color scheme I want to do has a lot of white I am concerned about yellowing as I want it to remain brilliant white. In the Kadet instruction book sig recommends to apply a couple coats of clear dope over the color coats Will clear butyrate dope yellow when applied over white butyrate dope?
I have also heard that butyrate dope is not totally fuel proof, is this true?

From what I understand the Klass Kote does not really need a clear coat and is very durable. It seems that most who have used it really like it.

I understand that all paint types are bad for your lungs some more so than others. With that being said I do have a charcoal respirator mask and would only paint with good ventilation. Although it is more work I am not intimidated by the painting process. I have heard that the automotive urethane paints are extremely bad for you and therefore don't really want to use them.

Also, how will both of the above work on the ABS cowl?
Please correct me if any of my info is wrong. Your input is very much welcome, desired and appreciated.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!

DBD1

I would like to know more about that process.

DBD1

My wife is the same way! LOL
Thanks, I will pick them up at your convenience. I will PM you after I recuperate from tomorrow.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

We ate abot 5:30 - 6:00 PM by 7:00 I needed toothpicks to hold up the eyelids!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I forgot to mention PM sent.

DBD1

Well, with the busy Thanksgiving holiday behind I was able to find the time for a little progress. Sunday I went over and met FlyerinOKC, checked out his projects and picked up magazines, many thanks BTW!
I worked up a color scheme and did a quick and dirty drawing.
I also found time to cover my hollow core folding closet door with ceiling tile to build the wing on. I also cut up the plans, copied template patterns, taped down the wing plan & covered with wax paper, ready to start cutting and gluing up parts! Then Monday I had to have a thumb sized chunk of meat removed all the way to my skull bone on my left temple because of skin cancer, it kind of slowed me down for a couple of days but I'm ready and excited to move forward!

DBD1

My color scheme borrowed elements from the Ryan STA, and modified the Kadet stripe and changed the colors up. I wanted something simple and classic with good contrast between the top and bottom for orientation in the air. Here is what I came up with.


Haven't decided on the spinner color, black or red, or I may spend the extra few bucks for polished aluminum.

adamle

Good luck with your build. Looks like you're off to a good start. As for covering, Ultracote from Horizon is worth a look. A lot of builders like it better than Monocote. I've covered and painted models before and it will take a lot longer to repair than a simple iron on patch. I always think its a shame to waste a perfectly good Sunday because my plane is under repair.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Don, you can count me in as a Ultracote user. That was Ultracote you saw on the bright yellow Cub.

Mike

DBD1

I hope everyone has stayed warm and safe through this deep freeze, it has left me with some building time, so in between tending to the wood burning stove to keep the shop warm I have made a little bit of progress. I removed all of the die cut ribs from their sheets, stacked them together and was surprised at how inconsistent they were, not only the overall shape but the locations of the spar slots varied fore and aft. Anyways it wasn't too terrible, with some good old elbow grease with a sanding block & sand paper the rib profiles are all the same and most ribs fit snugly on the spars, the couple that don't I can deal with.

I pinned down the bottom wing sheeting and cap strips, pinned down and glued the spars down, glued the ribs on, leading and trailing edges and the wing tip. So far I have used only Titebond wood glue, a few times it was tempting to use CA but I resisted, I only want to use it where absolutely necessary.

Whoo-Hoo one half of a half a wing done.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Looks like you are on your way to having a wing built.

a65l

My Feedback: (17)

The Sig instructions are great, and it's really hard to go wrong on this airplane. I built a wing kit for a Kaydet MKII fuse I got from a fellow club member. One modification I did make was to set it up for twin alieron servos. It was really a simple change, and didn't require any great stretch of my minimal building skills. But it will allow for more flexibility later on, plus it actually (I thought) was easier than doing alierons and the internal linkages.

DBD1

I have managed to get both left and right wing panels built and joined together. The instructions call for 4 inches of dihedral but mine somehow ended up at 2 3/4 inches. I decided to go with it rather than sand the center ribs to achieve the 4 inches, I think I may like it better anyway. I also think that I will use a bit of the aileron stock to extend the wing tips and end the ailerons an inch or two short of the tip. I am working on the dihedral braces and aileron servo mount. I decided to go with the single servo.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Great looking wing!