skylark-flier

Yeah, 1986 design with 50" wing, originally for .09 - .20. Originally they were simply known as the CG Eaglet but one of the earliest mods by CG changed the name to Eaglet-50 - this one's an original. She's got a ST .29 fitted with an old OS #843 muffler, which fits perfectly. The prop's an old white nylon Top Flite 9x6 that's going to be replaced with a new 8x5 or maybe 8x6 - I want to keep the thrust/power down on this bird as she's going to be my main "newby training plane" once she's back in the air - I don't plan to change/increase the control throws at all (which is rare for me). 4-ch radio that, I think, is about as old as I am but it has the FCC gold sticker (and it works just fine) so I'm good with it.

This is what the original kit pic looks like:

DBD1

Tail feathers are glued on and firewall has been fuel proofed with 30 min. epoxy.



I trial fit the rudder pushrod and it was rubbing/binding on the exit slot. I am currently sanding on the slot to enlarge the width to alleviate the problem.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Good for you, a binding pushrod can be a very bad thing!

DBD1

I couldn't resist assembling the components, standing her on her own feet and snapping a couple pics.



Bit by bit she's getting a little closer to being done.

TomCrump

Well done !

gene6029

VERY NICE!!......Gene

skylark-flier

They're right - that IS nice work. Y'know, after seeing all the pics around the Kadet forum of the Seniors, Senioritas, LT's, etc, looking at an original Kadet or our Mk-II is like looking at another plane entirely - they're so "solid". Gotta say though, I'm totally in love with my Mk-II - she's tough as nails.

Once you get it flying, you're going to find that the "solid" look carries through to the way she flies too. The "stick-builts" are very light and floaty, the original, the Mk-I & Mk-II are a bit heavier in their flying characteristics. They have a very solid feel in the air and when they touch down THEY'RE DOWN! I very seldom even get much of a bounce, and I fly off rough grass 98% of the time.

DBD1

Thanks guys. It feels good to finally get it this far done without any major goofs, helps the confidence a bit. I yet need to make up the flexible cable pushrods for the nose gear and throttle, install the radio gear and all linkages then perform a test to insure smooth operation, and obviously covering and painting.
Speaking of covering, working with monokote is going to be a learning experience for me. When I started this thing I thought that coming up with a color scheme would be easy, it has proved to be more difficult than I thought. Each time I draw one out and look at it for a while, I end up not being satisfied with it. I still do not have a finalized design but am getting closer. I guess I better get with it.

skylark-flier

Hey Don, there's no rush with deciding your final color scheme, Spring's still a long way off.

If you haven't worked with monokote before, it's not all that hard really. Primarily, it takes more time than you'd think - especially if you're like me, each edge has to be just right. Curved edges (which the Kadet has very few) are a pain sometimes but they're not really all that bad. On places like the front-top of the vert stab and front-ends of the horizontal stab (nearly the only curves on a Kadet) I found - and this is ME guys - that I'm better finishing the flat part and then slicing the overlap and tacking it down piece-by-piece.

Really, those curved edges are the only place I ever have much problem with.

Oh! Gotta brag a bit here. I just finished covering that totalled CG Eaglet and she's almost ready for her maiden. Tonight I'll cut out the side name-logo but other than that she's ready to go. First pic is what I started with, 2nd is her on the table today. Everything forward of the rear wing dowel rod is new, tail repaired and reinforced. Original ST-29 engine will probably go on it eventually but I need a new carb for it first. In the meantime she's sporting a OS.20fp:
Same colors as original, same color layout too.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Beautful work Don! I just love seeing a bare naked airplane before the covering.

DBD1

Thanks, and I agree Mike. The stick built ones look more cool than the slab side ones though.

spaceworm

Hey good idea. Before I recover my MKl Kadet, I am going to add partial formers and stringers to the fuse sides and top to round it out. Has anyone else done this? I have a round cowl from something that I can use with my saito 56.

Sincerely, Richard

Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk 1 Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Cub, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II

TomCrump

Richard, I added stringers to my Kadet Senior to give it some added shape.

DBD1

Richard, that would be a cool mod, a more rounded Kadet with a radial cowl. If you do it please post pics! I for one would like to see it.

As Tom Crump said, he added stringers to his Kadet senior. I just stumbled on to his build thread the other day, read the whole thing yesterday. There's a lot of good info and ideas in it, the work he does is inspiring to me, his Kadet turned out very nice and it's unique. Check it out if you haven't already. It got my gears going and gave me some ideas.

DBD1

I haven't given up just been sidetracked with other stuff.
The next step is to make up the flex cable pushrods for the throttle and nose wheel steering. I am planning on "tinning" the cable with solder where it is to be cut to prevent fraying. The cable will be cleaned with acetone then thoroughly dried before soldering. I am going to use non-corrosive paste flux. I have my choice of rosin core solder or low temp silver bearing solder. Which would be the best to use?
I don't want to use a corrosive flux because I don't think I can get it cleaned out between the cable strands and don't want corrosion problems.
What do you guys think?

Hydro Junkie

As strange as this may sound, I'd use rosin cored electrical solder. You wouldn't really need flux with it either since the core is a type of flux anyway

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have used rosen core with mixed results and now I use the Staybright from Mike's the LHS.

spaceworm

Another option is to soak the cable end with CA. Just a thought.

Good luck

Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk 1 Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Cub, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Don,

Here is a peek at the wing I have been working on as a change of pace. I will need to set it aside this weekend and finish some Cub modifications and get back on the 182 build. It's hard getting pictures of a one piece 84 inch wing!

DBD1

I need to solder connectors on the ends after cutting anyway so tinning will help when it comes time to do that.

Mike, I do have the Stay-Brite solder and flux, but the liquid flux is corrosive. If I was just soldering a connector to a solid wire pushrod I would use it because it would be easy to clean after soldering to prevent corrosion from occurring, but with the stranded cable I am afraid that the liquid flux would wick in between the strands beyond where the solder will flow and be difficult to properly clean thus inviting corrosion.

Or am I over-thinking this?
I have extra cable so I guess I can test try several combinations and see what the outcome is. I was just wondering what most people do when soldering flex cable.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The heat of the iron boils it out. I have used on cables without corrosion.

buzzard bait

DBD1, in pic 2, post 254, it looks to me like it might have a bit of left thrust relative to the tail surfaces. Photos can give distorted perspectives, so I really don't know, just asking. You can have a bit of right thrust but you really don't want any left. Again, I could be totally off base here.

VERY nice build, congratulations!

Jim

spaceworm

Looking at pic #2, it seems that there is less cowl showing on the right side of the spinner than the left. indicating offset to the right. Also, although the front wheel may not be on center, it looks like the spinner is lined up with the right side of the wheel, again indicating right thrust, all which is good. Just my observations.

Sincerely, Richard
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk 1 Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Cub, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II

DBD1

I think it is a perspective illusion, I noticed when I first took the photo that something didn't quite look right. If you notice the aft end of the fuse looks off as well. When I took the picture I was standing slightly off center to the right (left side of the plane), obviously the camera is not lined up on the fuse longitudinal center line nor is it exactly parallel to it. look at the space from the wing tips to the edge of the photo on each side, it is different on each side. The plane is clearly not centered in the photo. It does make it look funny. Thanks for the concern though.

skylark-flier

Geez Don, that plane looks GOOD!