Nick R.

Hi All, what does everyone cover their plans with to protect them.

bikerbc

I have always used wax paper

dadragon

+1

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

+2 because wax paper lays down flat and stays put where products such as the various plastic wraps are hard to manage, want to move around, stick to themselves, they attract sanding dust, etc. CA and some other glues tend to stick to plastic wraps but not to wax paper.

aymodeler

My Feedback: (3)

I use the thin clear plastic drop cloth material you can get a big box home improvement stores: http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-9-ft-...711648?N=c5cw# It's cheap and you can easily cover you entire plan without any overlapping seems.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The problem with wax paper now days is the make it slightly porous for microwaving. I have been using either leftover window plastic (The stuff you tape over the window and heat shrink with a hairdryer), the clear backing off of Ultrakote/Monokote, and Great Planes plans protector. The first one I'm just about out of since I upgraded the windows and since I haven't used film in a while that's low too.

Great Planes Plan Protector 25' Roll $8.99 from Tower or LHS.

SPEED51J

save the clear backing from Monokote rolls

gravlrd44

4mm clear polyethylene sheet from Lowe's. Lays flat nicely if smoothed and taped down over the edge of the build table. Been using for years. Not much sticks and you can see the plans.

acerc

Painters plastic. A roll will last your lifetime and it is cheap at $20 bucks, and nothing sticks to it.

GREG DOE

For years the standard was Cut-Rite wax paper. As FlyerInOKC pointed out they changed it some years ago, and thin CA will bleed through it. Not badly though. It's still fine for model airplane cement, and epoxy. I guess the change came when they made it "Microwave Safe"? When you use something for 60 years you get attached to it, but there are substitutes that work just as well. For me it's convenient because my wife always has some Cut-Rite in the kitchen. Good luck, Greg

JCOKEEFE

My Feedback: (2)

Good old waxed paper has worked for me since day one.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I have been using glass. It is the best thing ever. Probably not practical for most people, bit it is the best surface I have ever used.

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

So, that's why Cut-Rite wax paper doesn't work quite as well as I remember it working in the old days. I think I will try a double layer, 2 sheets, on my next build. Gota use it up, I bought 4 rolls a while back!

f16man

I make copies and save the originals.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You can't beat glass for mixing epoxy or Bondo but it's a bit hard sticking a "T" Pin into it!

tfarmer96

+1

CafeenMan

I use waxed paper or thin plastic drop cloth material. Either works. I've had some glues stick to waxed paper but it didn't cause any real problems. Just tear the paper away from the structure and sand a little to remove whatever is left.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Either wax paper or bakers parchment paper. Cheap and comes in handy for baking too. Parchment is harder to see through but nothing sticks to it. I miss the days when you could peel the wax off with a finger nail but people don't seem to like wax in there food when they use it in the microwave? I do want to try the plastic like Robert uses but just haven't gotten round to it.

bikerbc

I like the wax paper because I am lazy and it is easy .. It comes in a roll that is easy to manage.. We don't always need a big piece. You can tear off as much as you need from the wax paper roll without folding it out or anything .

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I find tape works great in the few places that need to be pinned to the board. I put a small amount of paste wax over the areas where glue may stick. The frames pop right off. I have framed up 4 very large scale aircraft on glass, and it is the best method I have found to date. It keeps everything really flat.

Small pieces of glass can be had for most projects from a glass shop. Ask, and maybe they have a throw away piece of tempered, which is what you want for strength. They may just give it to you.

crossman

I have had good luck using the backing from monokote rolls. That is limited though since I use more Ultracote. I may look at the plastic drop cloths and such. I also prefer to copy my plans and save the originals.

Roguedog

I'm glad I Nick posted this question. I recently purchased some Cut-Rite wax paper as i used wax paper 20 years ago. Didn't know that they changed it's properites.

After reading through the posts I remembered that I have some clear mylar (plastic.) I purchased from Aircraft Spruce for some composite work i want to do. It's perfectly clear and you buy it by the linear yard, I think 54" wide x 36" long or as long as you want per yard. It's the perfect material for protecting plans. You can poke pins through it, tape it down and since it's release film most glues including CA and epoxy will release from it.

I tried to located it on the their website but it appears it's not an item in the online list.

Bryan

acdii

I use the backing from SIG covering, that sadly they no longer make. It is thicker than the Monokote stuff, and lays flat, and with a few sweeps of my bench brush it sticks to the plans and doesn't move. Sure would like to get some more, CA does stick to it, but not nearly as bad as the plans protector listed above. I haven't found anything yet save for Parchment that CA doesn't stick to. I have used the plans protector from Tower, but it is too thin and tears easily when trying to remove something that got glued to it, even using Titebond III.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I always make copies of the plans and use them for building but I think I will try the painters plastic over lay idea I do allot of painting so I have tons of the stuff in my shop, never thought of using it as a plan protector till this thread I will still use the copy of the plans just in case.

acdii

I tried to make a copy of the Top Flite plans, but no one had a machine big enough to copy it, for a reasonable price that is. The one place that had a scanner large enough wanted $100 to make a copy.