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Thread: Stickey subject


  1. #1

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    Thumbs up Stickey subject

    I want some information on adhesives about whats out there, readily accessable and works. I have built a few kits and used everything from Elmers white (works very well on balsa), different types of epoxy (on firewalls), CA's thick and thin (can't use them , they make me sick) and even Gorilla glue. Any info on something you have used, where you used it and if you have continued or discontinued using it. Just starting a Lanier Schrike and would like to try something new that works. Thanks

  2. #2
    DavidAgar's Avatar
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    You have listed all the old reliables. If CA does not work for you, epoxy and wood glue are what's left. I have not tried Gorilla glue but I do use a lot of Titebond. Good Luck, Dave
    If the screw ain\'t loose then things ain\'t normal.

    Dave Agar
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  3. #3
    Leroy Gardner's Avatar
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    +1 here.

    Leroy
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    If it works for you there is still a wrong way

  4. #4
    RCU Forum Manager/Admin RCKen's Avatar
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    I used to use CA's for my building but about 9 years ago I switched to Elmer's Carpenter's Glue, and I won't go back to the CA's. I feel that my building has improved since I've switched because I have more time to get a joint positioned correctly before the glue sets and you don't get those hard knots in the wood that are impossible to sand. Also I didn't like the reaction my body has to the CA fumes. Many call it a CA allergy, but after I've talked to a few doctors and a couple of chemists I find that it's not an allergy but a simple chemical reaction in your body. The CA fumes react with the moisture in your nose, throat, and lungs to produce some very bad reactions. Over time these reactions can become worse with repeated exposure. I've seen people that can hardly breath for 3 days after using it. I wanted to avoid that from happening before it got to that point. So..... here's what I use for my building.


    • Elmer's Carpenter's Glue - This is my main adhesive. I use it for the majority of building with balsa and wood to wood contact. For ply's and harder woods I will use epoxy
    • 5 minute epoxy - I do have this around but I very rarerly use it. I will usually use 30 minute, but I have the 5 minute around for quick uses that aren't in critical areas of the plane.
    • 30 minute epoxy - I use this for critical stress areas on the plane such as wing joints, firewall attachments, horizontal and vertical stabilizer, securing hinge points, and other high stress critical areas.
    • CA's - Yes, I know I said I didn't use these but that's not entirely true. I still use them for a couple of things. I keep thin CA around for hardening threads cut into wood for such things as wing bolts. I may also use it to help hold large constructions together while the Elmer's sets. I will put a couple of small drops on the wood to hold it all together while the wood glue dries. I also do reviews for RCU and I use the proper thickness CA adhesive that is called for in the instructions. I do this because we try to do review planes as the instructions call for. I do have medium and thick CA around but don't use them much. Especially the thick, too many people try to use thick CA to fill up gaps in wood joints but this can be bad, it can lead to a false sense of security because the joint will be weak. Nothing beats wood to wood contact in a joint.
    • Formula 560 - This is a canopy adhesive and that's exactly what I use it for, for attaching the canopy to the fuselage
    • Gorilla Glue - I don't use this glue too much because of the way it expands while setting up. This can be bad if you don't have the area secured properly because it can push the parts out of position before it dries. But I've found that it does have several really good uses, one especially good is if you have areas that need to be filled and secured. You can apply the glue and a little water and the glue will expand out into the area you want to fill.
    • Thread locks - Self-explanatory. I use thread lock to keep nuts and screws in place. Always use blue thread lock so you can remove the nut or screw later. Never ever use red thread lock because it's permenant, you won't get your nut or screw off ever again.
    • 3M 77 spray adhesive - This is some great stuff that has lots of uses in our hobby. One that comes to mind right off the bat is when doing cockpits. You can use this spray adhesive to hold items like printed instrument panels in place.



    Well, that's about all I can think of right now.


    Ken
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  5. #5

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    Thanks RCKEN. Will definitely add the formula 560 and a spray adhesive to my collection. Always fun looking for that new magic stuff. Larry

  6. #6
    foodstick's Avatar
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    Should I bring up the Pica white glue just to cause problems?

  7. #7
    Moderator daveopam's Avatar
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    Curious, have you guys tried the odorless CA? Does it help with the reaction, and does it stick as well?

    David
    I never want to see a crash. But I don't want to miss one either.

  8. #8
    DavidAgar's Avatar
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    The odorless CA does work well. It is important to note that it is odor less, not odor free. If you have issue's with CA and your health, it is best to stick with Epoxy and wood glues. Bob Smith glues has a thick CA that I like to use as it does allow you some working time to make sure that things are where they are supposed to be before the glue set's, the down side is it does have the familiar CA odor. I still use a lot of Titebond for building as it always time to move things around and sands better than CA. Good Luck, Dave
    If the screw ain\'t loose then things ain\'t normal.

    Dave Agar
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  9. #9

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    BSI got this e-mail from a modeler in NY:

    "I told you in Toledo this year I was very allergic to CA. You gave me some of your foam safe Super-Gold and told me I would be able to use it. I tried a very little at first and, to my surprise, there was no reaction. I always envied someone who could use CA, and now I can thanks to you. I have had two bouts with phenomena-like symptoms after using regular CA. You have an excellent product and should advertise the fact that it is non-allergenic."
    About 5% of the population can become sensitized to the fumes created by CA. The fumes are the evaporated form of the CA and can irritate some membranes in the body. The Super-Golds have a higher molecular weight and don’t emit these fumes. Industrial users all report the performance of the Super-Golds to be just as good as regular CAs. Their only disadvantage is their added cost.

  10. #10

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    Another glue worth noting is, big surprise, old school model airplane cement. I love Ambroid! I used it as recently as about one hour ago. No allergies, no fumes, a delightful scent that reminds me of my childhood days building Guillow's kits, plus it sands like a dream. I would never use anything else for edge joining wing sheeting or other external joints. It sands down to an invisible seam, unlike CA which always leaves a seam visible through covering. I use Ambroid on everything from indoor rubber power under 1 gram Mini-Sticks to 2 meter fire breathing pattern planes. I'd use it on bigger if I flew them.

    Dave

  11. #11

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    RCKen in post #4 above echoes my feelings quite accurately. I also use Titebond which, in all practical purposes is the same as the carpenters glue he uses.

  12. #12

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    My main glues are Tightbond and Epo Grip Epoxy .. I use CA on a very limited basis .. For hardening threads and that sort of thing .
    Ken , Biker BC Cub Brother #6 Ultra Sport Brother # 100 Tiger Club # 7 Pulse Brother # 1 Sig Brother # 58 Top Flight Brother # 9


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