BigTeeEldorado

Come on out Mike, they make folding props so you can cross fly too!!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

On the airplane in my avatar, the wing load would be too high but she does have a tendency to float when trying to land. The owner of the full scale version tells me he can hardly land if he doesn't extend the airbrake on the belly. In 1/5th scale the wing spar at the root is 17 .75" and the tip spar is 4.75" with .375" washout.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

On the airplane in my avatar, the wing load would be too high but she does have a tendency to float when trying to land. The owner of the full scale version tells me he can hardly land if he doesn't extend the airbrake on the belly. In 1/5th scale the wing spar at the root is 17 .75" and the tip spar is 4.75" with .375" washout.

Aquila1954

My Feedback: (1)

Hello Boys:
I just got both of my Riser Kits today, opened up and grabbed both of the instruction manuals out of them. Going to read up on it for a couple weeks before starting on the 2 meter Riser first. I haven't built anything over 25 years. I take that back, the only thing I have been building are custom computers for friends and family.
In February, I am planning on buying this kit "SIG KADET MARK II" for something to do after I get the others completed. I have flown some what a 4 channel prop way back when, didn't come out very good for the plane. Going to try again, but with a club instructor this time around. Tried doing myself the last time, not much time to think with prop over sailplanes.
Want to thank all of you in advance, will have questions from time to time. I like how both the kits came with hardware too, like the control horns and such.

skylark-flier

For sure, SIG has some of the best kits available today - you're going to have a good time building. Also, I'm sure you'll like the Kadet Mk-II - she's a GREAT plane. My own is coming up on 1 year old in March and already has over 50 hours airtime. And, as far as flying the Kadet goes, she can be turned down so much that she's almost as easy as a glider to fly - a real floater.

Don't hesitate to ask questions - anything, anytime. There are a lot of guys here with extensive experience, far beyond mine, which is one of the reasons I like to pick brains around here. They're GOOD!

Aquila1954

My Feedback: (1)

Hello All;
So, I have been reading the build manual and scanning over the plans of the Riser 2 Meter. I have not started yet, maybe in a couple of weeks. So, when I start building the wings where would be the best place to have wings separation. I have a 1990 Lincoln Town Car and it has a pretty big trunk area and/or back seat. But, still can't get a 78" in there all at once. There is no where in the manual or plans to tell you how to do. On the Goldsberg Gentle Lady manual they have a section on it. On that it is the wing tips that comes apart. So, would I do the tips on the Riser 2 meter this way also. Or do it in the main wing like the Great Planes Electric Spectra does, I also have that plane to.
Thank you all in advance.

TomCrump

I'm not a glider guy, so there may be better suggestions.

If it were me, I'd use either method (Spectra or Gentle Lady). I'd pick the one that I was most comfortable with and adapt it to my build.

I once put a one piece, 90" Ercoupe wing in my 92 Olds Sierra. LOL

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Open the backdoor and slip it in between the front seats or over the back. That is what I did in my old Taurus.

ARUP

+1 to FlyerInOKC. Otherwise, the best would be to have the tips removable. The joiners won't have to be as 'stout' as if you split the wing in half.

speedyb

I learned to fly with a Kadet arf. currently working on a Herr/sig cherokee... have 2 kits waiting on me, a Wonder and a 4-star 40. both found gathering dust at the LHS.

Flight Risk

My Feedback: (1)

We had a club member bring his Wonder to our last meeting for show-n-tell and got me thinking about building one.

speedyb

should make for a good glow to electric. I hope.

skylark-flier

The Wonder really is quite a missile at full throttle. Y'gotta be a whole lot better flier than I am to keep that critter on a leash. Gotta say, all your planes are good ones though.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Wrong thread, sorry.

acdii

Could that be where it gets its name from? You wonder how you could ever control it at WOT.

Cycotravlr

Well finally, my 4-Star 40 is on the build table and under construction. The wingtips will be rounded. The turtle deck will be sheeted. It will have servos in each wing. It will be powered with a OS .46II. Could be a slow build while I work on remodeling the house and steer the work away from the build room.

ARUP

..

Cycotravlr

Nice! I like that color. Looks real slick. I hope mine looks as good when I complete it.

skylark-flier

Oh, yeah! That color's positively RICH!!

Cycotravlr

Today I completed the right wing according to plans. Next I will add the mods to the wing. Rounded wing tip and a dedicated servo for the right aileron.

skylark-flier

You'll like those twin aileron servos - they make for a much "surer" control.

Cycotravlr

I'm still figuring out the layout for the Servo mounts. This is the 1st plane that I have used the twin servo concept. I've heard nothing but great things about it. Hopefully it will be worth the effort because I have plans to do the same for my next project if all goes well on the 4-Star 40.

acdii

Take two 3/8" x 1/4" basswood sticks and glue them between the ribs spaced apart to fit your servo fully between them. To this you will mount your plywood hatch the servo mounts to. What I do is use plywood twice the thickness of the sheeting, then add one thickness of sheeting to it and fit it flush to the ribs. That way when you sheet, and open the area the hatch goes, it fits flush. Since the wing is covered and not sheeted, you can set the rails down on the ribs the thickness of the hatch, make the hatch the width between the main and rear spars, then fill the sides between the spars with sheeting. You will need to either trim the ribs the thickness of the sheeting, or use 1/8th balsa strip glued to the side of the rib to support the sheeting. Mount your servo to the hatch using 3/8" x 1/2" basswood, and cut a slot in the hatch to put the servo arm through. This gives you a nice hatch to access the servo without having to fight with it installing it in the wing. Also, if you dont have a tube to run the cables through, roll up some heavy paper and slip it through the ribs.

I dont have a hatch ready to take a picture of, but I do have my busted up 4*120 wing showing the rails.

skyrat71

I hope this weather is typical for for Alaskan winters from now on. Last Sunday was dead calm,sunny and almost +50F, so daughter number two and I went out with the Seniorita again. Flew until I shook the mounting screws out of the nose gear bearing from doing to many touch and goes. After working the bugs out I really like the old Super Tigre 25 I put on it. The flaps took some getting used to but lower my takeoff and landing speed to little more than a fast walk.
Today was also pretty nice and daughter number two had the day off from school so this time we took my resurrected Lil' Rascal out. Lipo batteries and a larger diameter prop make a huge difference! The Lil'Rascal was always one of my favorite throw around planes, but now it's even better. Loops and snap rolls can be done from level flight and it will actually takeoff under it's own power if you can keep it straight. I have a second one minus the wing that I might convert to a float plane.

skylark-flier

Ye gads, you're flying in warmer weather than I am. I need to move back up there!