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Old 08-04-2016, 02:46 PM
  #1801  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie
DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have to talk to them about a cowling for a Kadet already so...............................................
Here is their email: [email protected]

Old 08-14-2016, 07:12 AM
  #1802  
Pork Chop
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Have any of you guys built a Sig Sealane? Seems like it would be interesting and I dont own a seaplane
Old 08-14-2016, 08:35 AM
  #1803  
lkruse
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Originally Posted by Pork Chop
Have any of you guys built a Sig Sealane? Seems like it would be interesting and I dont own a seaplane
I have, and it's a nice build, typical of Sig's quality. I've attached a couple of pictures of my SeaLane which was built as an amphibian, and quite frankly, due to a past lack of a suitable water source, has more flights on it as a land plane (wing floats removed) than as a seaplane. It is a solid performer and flies much like the Sig LT40. I did add chines to the bottom of the fuselage and fiberglassed that area,based on recommendations on several blogs and videos. My ship is powered by an OS .46 AX (plenty of power), covered with UltraCote, and is guided by a Futaba FAAST system. The landing gear is held in place with wheel collars inside the fuselage, and the LG mounting holes are covered with clear tape when it flies on the water.
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:59 PM
  #1804  
Pork Chop
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Wow well done thanks for sharing pictures she's a beauty Ikruse I love the color scheme you used and putting "Sig SeaLane" on her. Do you think she would be a good e-conversion? If she flys like an LT-40 than she's a must build, now where do I put the SeaLane in in my already long list of upcoming builds?
Old 08-14-2016, 06:21 PM
  #1805  
lkruse
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Originally Posted by Pork Chop
Wow well done thanks for sharing pictures she's a beauty Ikruse I love the color scheme you used and putting "Sig SeaLane" on her. Do you think she would be a good e-conversion? If she flys like an LT-40 than she's a must build, now where do I put the SeaLane in in my already long list of upcoming builds?
I think it would be an excellent conversion to electric and would do away with the need for a pushrod throttle connection between the servo in the wing and the engine throttle in the pylon. It would also do away with the need to bury the fuel tank in the nacelle behind the engine. The "Sig SeaLane" decal actually comes with the kit. Good luck!
Old 08-15-2016, 09:04 AM
  #1806  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by lkruse
I think it would be an excellent conversion to electric and would do away with the need for a pushrod throttle connection between the servo in the wing and the engine throttle in the pylon. It would also do away with the need to bury the fuel tank in the nacelle behind the engine. The "Sig SeaLane" decal actually comes with the kit. Good luck!
Where would you recommend placing the battery compartment?
Old 08-15-2016, 06:41 PM
  #1807  
lkruse
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Where would you recommend placing the battery compartment?
Definitely in the fuselage ahead of the CG. You're going to need the nose weight anyway.
Old 08-18-2016, 12:45 PM
  #1808  
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Thanks for the info the SeaLane would be a great Sig kit to build for sure
Old 08-21-2016, 10:13 AM
  #1809  
leojzamboni
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Hello friends....

These are some recent pics of my Sig Smith Miniplane!

Regards from Brazil!!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0anshP5sA0
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:32 AM
  #1810  
mvarzoni
 
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Default May I join the brotherhood?

Good morning everybody!
My name is Mauricio, IŽm from Brazil and IŽm trying to build my first Piper CUB J3.
I have a nice OS 0.26 4stroke engine laying around and I would like to build up a kit for it.
IŽm looking for a 61in wingspan kit.
I do have access to a laser cut machine, so IŽll be able to cut nice kits if I have access to the plan.
Does anyone here knows where I could find the plan or could you guys please kindly share the plans? I could pay for it.

Thanks
Mauricio
Old 08-22-2016, 09:52 AM
  #1811  
soarrich
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Mauricio
I have had a couple OS .26's, I think that powering a 61" Cub might be a little too much for one. I have one in a 48" Cub which flies nicely, a 61" Cub would be about twice as big, so unless it's built very lightly I don't think it would fly well. As for kits, I don't know.
Old 08-22-2016, 10:49 AM
  #1812  
mvarzoni
 
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Soarrich, How much does your piper cub weights? what prop size do you have on your OS .26?

Thanks
Mauricio
Old 08-22-2016, 04:36 PM
  #1813  
spaceworm
 
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Originally Posted by mvarzoni
Good morning everybody!
My name is Mauricio, IŽm from Brazil and IŽm trying to build my first Piper CUB J3.
I have a nice OS 0.26 4stroke engine laying around and I would like to build up a kit for it.
IŽm looking for a 61in wingspan kit.
I do have access to a laser cut machine, so IŽll be able to cut nice kits if I have access to the plan.
Does anyone here knows where I could find the plan or could you guys please kindly share the plans? I could pay for it.

Thanks
Mauricio
Hi, go to Outerzone and search for J3 Cub. From list select the size you are looking for and download the free plans. There is one that is 56 inch span and is link: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=5160



Good luck. Let me know if you have kits or short kits cut from these plans.

Sincerely, Richard
AMA 861960
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope)Zenoah G23, H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?) YS F-120, GB Anniv Cub (NIB) Saito FA-56
Old 08-22-2016, 05:40 PM
  #1814  
FlyerInOKC
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Sweet looking biplane!
Old 08-22-2016, 07:32 PM
  #1815  
soarrich
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Originally Posted by mvarzoni
Soarrich, How much does your piper cub weights? what prop size do you have on your OS .26?

Thanks
Mauricio
2.2 kilo, the wing is bigger than I thought, it's 56". It was from the very beginings of ARFs, 1988 World Models if I remember correctly, I had the choice of getting it as an ARF or ARCover, which is what I did so I could glue it well and cover it better. The prop is 9x6 wood. It needs repair, I think when I repair it I can save .5 kilo by putting new radio gear in it.

On thinking about it over-night the OS .26 might power you 61"er well, my 56" is very heavy by today's standards. I know that if I where to build the plane from scratch today it would weigh a kilo less, weight savings coming both from a much lighter radio and better/lighter construction.

Last edited by soarrich; 08-23-2016 at 03:40 AM. Reason: more thought
Old 08-22-2016, 07:34 PM
  #1816  
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Originally Posted by mvarzoni
Good morning everybody!
My name is Mauricio, IŽm from Brazil and IŽm trying to build my first Piper CUB J3.
I have a nice OS 0.26 4stroke engine laying around and I would like to build up a kit for it.
IŽm looking for a 61in wingspan kit.
I do have access to a laser cut machine, so IŽll be able to cut nice kits if I have access to the plan.
Does anyone here knows where I could find the plan or could you guys please kindly share the plans? I could pay for it.

Thanks
Mauricio
Hey Mauricio! Good choice with a J3 for your OS.26 - and I agree with the guys that something closer to 48" would be about right for that engine. And, I want to welcome you, as our second Brazilian member, to the SIG Brotherhood - got #165 reserved for you.

And here we are, as I've got us today:
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[TD]balsatermite[/TD]
[TD]158[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]leojzamboni[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]49[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]cherokeenut[/TD]
[TD]104[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]3136[/TD]
[TD]159[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]sgtmonte[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]50[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Mark Thomas[/TD]
[TD]105[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]rc56[/TD]
[TD]160[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]smallrc[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]51[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]rphiii[/TD]
[TD]106[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]R/C Addiction[/TD]
[TD]161[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]daywalker[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]52[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]n0kjf[/TD]
[TD]107[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Fly North[/TD]
[TD]162[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]angel asenjo[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]53[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]cymaz[/TD]
[TD]108[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]JFS737[/TD]
[TD]163[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Jeff Spicoli[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD]54[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]OldRookie[/TD]
[TD]109[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]skylark-flier[/TD]
[TD]164[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]themutsnutz[/TD]
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[TR]
[TD]55[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]gosch[/TD]
[TD]110[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]rdgettler[/TD]
[TD]165[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]mvarzoni[/TD]
[/TR]
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:46 AM
  #1817  
mvarzoni
 
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Spaceworm, thank you very much for your help.
I spoke to a friend who deals with CAD drawing and he said he will take like 3 or 4 weeks for finishing drawing this on a file that the laser cutter can "read" and cut the kit.

IŽll let you know when it is done.
Old 08-23-2016, 06:46 AM
  #1818  
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Thanks a lot!
Old 08-23-2016, 06:48 AM
  #1819  
mvarzoni
 
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Originally Posted by soarrich
2.2 kilo, the wing is bigger than I thought, it's 56". It was from the very beginings of ARFs, 1988 World Models if I remember correctly, I had the choice of getting it as an ARF or ARCover, which is what I did so I could glue it well and cover it better. The prop is 9x6 wood. It needs repair, I think when I repair it I can save .5 kilo by putting new radio gear in it.

On thinking about it over-night the OS .26 might power you 61"er well, my 56" is very heavy by today's standards. I know that if I where to build the plane from scratch today it would weigh a kilo less, weight savings coming both from a much lighter radio and better/lighter construction.
soarrich, IŽll use hobbico hs81 micro servos and aurora receiver on it, very light radio equipment.
hopefully it will weight about 1,5 kilo read to fly.

Thanks
Mauricio
Old 09-12-2016, 06:36 PM
  #1820  
skylark-flier
 
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Hey guys! Got a "newby" question for all y'all. I'm putting my Stratus back together again, with heavier control rods this time so they don't bend like the first set did, and recreate that rather inglorious vertical dive to the ground. I'm using 4-40 control rods this time, braced within the fuse; also still going with my tried and true 72MHz radio (not the same one, that one was TOASTED!) with antenna run through a tube inside the bottom of the fuse, exiting the rear. Rods are one piece steel, from servo to elevator/rudder. Should I be concerned about radio interference - rods vs antenna? There's about a 1.5" gap between rod and antenna, maybe a bit more.

I can build, I can fly, I can rebuild. Shoot, been doing it since 1955. I know why and how a plane does what it does, but I have ZERO technical knowledge of radios. Just wondering.
Old 09-12-2016, 07:16 PM
  #1821  
soarrich
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I've never had a problem and on my sailplanes I've used steel from servo to control horn for 30 years. Using steel your tirms won't change with the temp changes. A nice way to do it is to get a set of long golden rods, ( I think the blue outer casing ones are the stiffer ones), mount the outer casing well, then put the yellow rod in, cutting it about 1œ" short of the distance between the servo arm and the control arm, then you slide the steel rod into the yellow rod connecting the steel to the servo arm and the control horn letting the yellow rod just floating without being attached to anything. You'll find it very to be a very friction free setup.
Old 09-12-2016, 09:58 PM
  #1822  
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Thanks Rich! I really wasn't sure about this - been building and flying forever but, somewhere along the way (decades ago), I'd heard something about interference and HAD to ask. I've always either used the ancient metal/dowel/metal rods or golden-rods (most of my planes have the golden-rods). Stratus' original set-up was the metal/dowel/metal system but the rods simply didn't hold up to air forces (first time ever) on the surfaces - elevator rod bent like a pretzel.

It's been a year since she went down - took a long time to get out of my "blue funk" and into putting her back together again, but she's looking pretty good. Once I actually started, the wing took just 3 hours to get back in one piece, re-iron the koverall to no-wrinkle status and get the first coats of patch-dope on the small spots that had peeled. Fuse took a lot longer to sort out and reassemble. She's about 80% again, MIGHT be ready for the VRCS Octoberfest meet in Oxford PA - 8-9 Oct.

BOY, I sure screwed up the ailerons when I first built her. In the crash, one of the ailerons popped off entirely, the other loosened a lot. When I took a look, I'd completely forgotten to drill a hole in the hinge slots for the CA to wick all the way down - a totally NEWBY booboo from a guy that's been building for 60 years. All's well now though - they won't come loose again. Rudders & elevator were done properly, they're still nice and tight. Drilled through them again anyway, and added a bit of CA to each just to make sure.

Couldn't find another OS .61SF locally so I'm going with my old K&B .45 (bushing-type) and 11" prop. She won't be as fast as before, which is no big thing, but she should do just fine. The only time I had her to full throttle, anyway, was for take-offs and vertical maneuvers, so the drop in top speed really won't matter much for most things. The design was rated for .45-.60 back in 1966, that K&B should do just fine.

Looking forward to getting back into exploring her flying characteristics. I love the way she does spins, TIGHT! Also, I was really happy with the fact that she does her best turns just using rudder - the ailerons really just tighten the turn capability a bit. She CAN fly as you would fly a 3-channel bird. I like that.

OH, yeah, CORRECTION: the new pushrods are 1/16", not 4-40. Ye gads. must be getting late or something.

Well, back to the shop and sanding.

Last edited by skylark-flier; 09-12-2016 at 10:17 PM.
Old 09-13-2016, 02:56 AM
  #1823  
VincentJ
 
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I agree, I've never had any radio interference as well.
Old 09-13-2016, 04:11 AM
  #1824  
mvarzoni
 
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Soarrich and Spaceworm

The piper is comming out of the laser cutter this evening.
IŽll not be able to start building, because I dont have the plans yet, I ordered it from Great Planes website, but it will take another couple week for arriving here in Brazil.

Please let me know your e-mail address and IŽll forward the pictures.

Thank you
Mauricio
Old 09-13-2016, 06:22 AM
  #1825  
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Originally Posted by skylark-flier
Rods are one piece steel, from servo to elevator/rudder. Should I be concerned about radio interference - rods vs antenna? There's about a 1.5" gap between rod and antenna, maybe a bit more.
Skylark, Your concerns are actually founded in some fact. One of my concerned friends mentioned it, as I am struggling with the same Blue Funk over an ongoing gremlin in a 51 I built (and lost and rebuilding). I am certainly not discounting Soarrich reply and in fact his experience is not contestable. It is frustrating to say the least and so common to find one persons experience in conflict with another flyers experience.

Bottom line, while stalking my gremlin I followed that metal rod acting as an antenna thread and found that it has faded from the forefront because it is not as relevant to 2.4 users. However it apparently is relevant to 72 and is found in documents from the radio techs at one of the major manufacturers as well as an engine manufacturer that I contacted.

Even though it is supposedly not relevant to 2.4 (which is my scenario) I chose to just eliminate that particular hiding spot for my gremlin. I'm still in the rebuilding phase myself and as I do I am continuing to try to eliminate hiding spots. When I finish the rebuild I'm going to hold a seance and invite as many good spirits as will come to my defense.

Trouble with a Gremlin is you can never get a body count.


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