acdii

Of better yet, go to next years Flyin and buy it direct.

spaceworm

I really like the wing spars and attachment method of the 100 inch Gen 1 H9 Cub. If you could, maybe configure the Sig clipped wing halves to fit like the H9 ones do? Easier to do from the build stage than as a modification after. My Spacewalker II has similar aluminum blades on the wing halves fitting into sockets in the center section that separately attaches to the fuse. . Works very nicely for me.
Sincerely, Richard

Captcrunch44

I agree with acdii come to the sig fly in and take advantage of the discount. And you will get to see some great flying. And have a great time flying.

acdii

Some crashes are spectacular and stick with you for a long time. This year there was an EPIC crash.

Captcrunch44

Well I might have had the crash but,Joe really knows how to stick a landing

acdii

And that sticking landing was the EPIC I was referring too, though your banging the gong was a close second.

Captcrunch44

Well in preparation for the 168 rascal i am trying to figure out what type of covering to use. Mainly asking for opinions on what would be the best covering for such a large aircraft.

TomCrump

If I were to build one, I'd cover it with Natural Solartex and then paint it. All my 100"+ models are covered in Solartex.

acdii

Depends on if you want fast and furious, or long and drawn out. I was thinking of Hobby King(I think, could have been hobby people) covering. They have long rolls of it, which would be perfect to get the entire fuse in one sheet.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

If you are considering films, Great Planes has Ultracote (aka Oracote) in 10 meter rolls and Top Flite has Monokote in 25 foot rolls depending on what color you want. I bought a 10 meter roll in Bright Yellow for a project to insure the color was all the same. The larger rolls spoil you!

Mike

spaceworm

I suggest go full scale like. Ceconite light (glider grade) or Stits process. orequal. Or, Sig Koverall, or dress lining material. Likely in decreasing cost, if that is any consideration. I like Solartex, which is probably the most user friendly, but gets expensive in large projects like the 168. Ceconite process might cost more than Solartex? Are you going glow or gas? Natural finish (Solartex), or pajnting (all others)? Good luck

Captcrunch44

Hay guys thanks for the input. I was pricing out sig and soler text and even looked aircraft spruce. It all seems to be close to the same price by the time you paint the fabric. On less there are some alternatives to automotive paint. I plan on using gas and thet is a hole other discussion.
I am not trying to go cheap either. Somewhere in the middle for covering would be cool.

spaceworm

Many more finishes are ok with gas than with glow.fuel. Search here on rcu for glow or gas proof finishes, lots of info
from latex, to acrylics to rustoleum rattle cans to polyurethanes to auto paint. You pretty much have your choice. Good luck.

acdii

Use Koverall, nitrate, and latex, then clear coat with auto paint. Since the 168 is open lattice, you cant use water based poly and glass, but the Koverall and Nitrate should work to seal the weave so that you can paint it. Other than plastic, this would be the least expensive and quickest means. I have not been able to dope a plane yet that didn't take a few months of coat after coat, and stink the house up, but I have done glass with WB poly and latex on a Corsair that came out really good, and then shot clear on it in the garage.

trainermaster80

My Feedback: (5)

SILK WITH A SPONGE & WATER. PAINT FILL 1st SEAL COATS WITH NITRATE DOPE. FOR COPY OF MY HOW TO ARTICLE THAT APPEARED IN SAM MAG & OTHER PUBLICATIONS, JUST ASK & I'LL SEND YOU A COPY
OUT LAST IRON ON COVERINGS.
I DO ALSO USE ULTRA COTE AS I FIND IT EASY TO SHRINK TIGHT
TRAINERMASTER80 THE 88 YEAR OLD MODLER

Captcrunch44

Trainer master 80
that would be awesome. I need all the help I can get when it comes to silk and dope. And any tips on painting

SunDevilPilot

Go with Klass Kote. I've tried a bunch of paint and this is by far my favorite.

acdii

Just don't use it in the house. That stuff stinks worse than a skunk eating Taco Bell.

TomCrump

Epoxy stinks ? What do you think about lacquers, and water borne paints that contain amines ?

spaceworm

There are smells and there are stinks. Like banana oil smells good to me, may stink to some. I think some epoxies contain amines . I don't find the smell of water borne paints to be at all objectionable. Also some paints may smell, and be very toxic, where others may not be at all, and vice-versa. Particularly be very afraid of catalyzed polyurethanes that have isocyanate hardeners, they can kill your liver and kidneys and you may not even know you have been exposed. JMHO.Sincerely, Richard

acdii

Most of them don't bother me, like Dope and lacquers, but the Klass Kote has a smell all it's own that permeates quickly. It's strong like Dope, but more potent.

trainermaster80

My Feedback: (5)

Hey guy's i am 88 been using nitrate dope & buterate dope since i was 10 & hey i'm still here not as spry as i used to be but i'm still buildin & flyin.
Merry christmas to all you guys.trainermaster80

oliveDrab

What kind of paint and what colors?

smkrcflyer

I'm going to fiberglass a wing this winter in my basement. I was going to use Z-poxy but could use WBP. I've done a few sample parts with WBP and Koverall that worked good. Does Z-Poxy smell bad?

acdii

Smells like epoxy. Not really much odor to it. I prefer WBP because of speed, and ease of cleanup. I think it is more flexible which can be a good thing as the plane ages, less chance of cracks happening over time. Haven't tried it with Koverall though, only glass.