Thank You Magwie
Now that all the geometry and ergonomics of Betty are out of the way I can move forward with the build Vincent
Although she will be making cameo appearances now and then as she picks out her attire.
So next up is the instrument panel. The last cockpit detail before it can get skinned.
The kit comes with a 1/32 ply already cut out for the panel. Although it is less than a stellar fit.
I picked up some gauges from I fly tallies. They have a little depth to them and are mounted from the back.
A 3/16 thick panel is about right to have the gauge face protrude through instrument panel face the desired amount.
So I used some 1/8 light ply scrap. Also decided to use cherry veneer for the face to spruce it up.
Skin front and back with the veneer and wallaw 3/16. Almost
If you have a Rockler Woodworking store in your area they usually stock small pieces of veneer some fancy (burl, crotch, birds eye. etc....)
A little bit about Cherry. It starts out a pinkish redish. When exposed to light, especially UV light it gets darker. Even after it is finished.
Even under indoor lighting it will get darker. For instance. A raw cherry panel or board left open with a narrow board left across it for a day or two will leave a light stripe. Where the cover board lay it will be lighter. If left for a few weeks it will be very noticeable. But as it ages the darkening Hue gets rich.
The other extreme is Walnut. It starts out rich chocolate. If exposed to enough UV light it will eventually turn white.
You always want to veneer both sides of a panel to keep it balanced. Run the grain of the veneer 90 deg to face ply (if you are using ply as a sub straight)
Also the back veneer goes the same direction as the face veneer. It only takes a very thin glue line for veneer. Put to much glue down you can squeeze it through to the face. I used a flat stick to trowel a very thin layer of yellow glue. Then clamped it up for 3 hours. It is important to get good even flat pressure or you will have unglued spots or curled veneer.
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The plans show the instrument panel face siting 90 degs from datum line. I decided to place it a 18 deg angle for esthetic's reasons.
After fitting the lower edge. I spot glued a lower spacer to hold the lower edge in plane and drew an oversize scribe line. Then band sawed blank.
I then spot glued the blank in place for final shaping.
When you have a curved panel and then lean it at an angle, for the curve to stay on plane the shape changes. The easiest way to get that shape is to grind it to plane.
So I used a sanding bar with sanding paper only where the cutting was to happen. Then taped the plane that I wanted to cut to but not cut. When the tape was pushed aside I moved on.
All cutting motion was front to back keeping the sanding bar 90 degrees to the shape since the shape changes.
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Next step was final cut. I penciled the leading edge of the former behind the instrument panel and sanded left to right (to alleviate flat spots) until pencil was gone.
Now the top edge of the instrument panel will fit tightly to the underside of the fuse skin when ever it is time to mount the panel.
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Next the instruments can be laid out and cut in. Then the panel can be finished and installed whenever convenient .