acerc

I don't know if I have mentioned this either, for these larger scale birds I have been using these pushrods http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...e/pushrod2.htm and the Hayes 132 steel pin clevis for control surfaces. Super strong and look's good as well.
This particular pic does not have the Hayes but rather the bolt on ball link's, even stronger for super sized models.

Melchizedek

Ok, In a multitude of counselors there is wisdom. Plastic out at both throttle and choke.
Ball connectors all around in the engine compartment. In fact plastic clevises out altogether.

Thank you Leroy and Robert for looking out for the newbie .

Question on the Sullivan Golden Rod. Seems adequate.
Any potential problems with it for throttle ?

Kevin

acerc

You are welcome, but we are just paying it forward from what we were taught.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The only problem, and it really isn't a big deal with the golden rod is heat can soften it a little during the summer and change the trim a little. I have always lived in very warm climes and still used it on different planes. Throttle on my bigger gas planes and even controls on smaller planes. I'm using it now on a small Up-Roar on all the controls. Even in our 115 degree summer heat it only changes the trims slightly. Nothing to worry about but the Golden Rod has gotten a bad rap over the years for a minor thing.
This has really been a fantastic build and very hard to think of this as only your third one.
Gene

Melchizedek

Gene,

Thank you so much for your input on the Golden Rod.
I can't remember ever 115 here in Missouri.
A little trim on the throttle would not be a problem.

Thank you for your kind words also.
And Welcome Gene

Kevin

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

In 68 my rich uncle decided I should wear green and live in the Ozarks so they lost me in the woods of Missouri for a couple years. Our hot weather also only comes with about about 6% humidity so it only feels like a Missouri 75, 115 is an extreme though, it gets to about 110 for maybe two weeks out of the year with 115 or a bit higher once in a while. We get to our field and watch the sun rise then fly until about 10 then get off the lake bed and head to an air conditioned casino for brunch/breakfast before the lake bed is hotter then the hinges on the gates of hell.
It also gets down into the 20s so our planes can see extremes in our weather. Controls and covering can take a big hit. For those of us that build we can do things so our planes aren't bothered with these changes but there are only two or three of us that build, the ARFs don't tend to last long here before they show there short age.
Without the humidity though our planes don't tend to warp and go out of trim. Just little different things you see from state to state.
I really don't do winter builds either, I tend to build during the summer, my shop has air conditioning.

Leroy Gardner

"Hey Kevin", what did you do, break your arm or go on a vacation, miss your weekly reports.

Leroy

Melchizedek

Thanks Giving happened.
Then had a brother come visit for a weekend.
Then Honey Do, replace counter top in kitchen. Ate up this whole last week end. Long story. Rework always has a truck full of pit falls.

Now we are into Christmas season. I may not get much opportunity in the shop until after Christmas.
This really is a good thing for me though. It was starting to feel like work.
So stepping back from it for a bit should get my batteries recharged.

The paint has been kind of a wall for me. Not having done this before it felt a little daunting.
This had caused me to drag my feet. But having pondered it and some other details the last couple weeks.
I think when I get back at it, things will progress nicely.

Thanks for checking in Leroy.
It's nice to feel missed

Kevin

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Stuff happens Kevin don't sweat it!

acerc

My current build is a testament to that!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Mine too!

VincentJ

By all means Kevin, take your time but hurry up! LOL

Leroy Gardner

Between his job and the airplane you would think he was building a real one, no sweat Kevin, I spent 5 yrs. building my mustang and working too. There are so many other things in life we have to do, a hobby always takes a back seat.

Leroy

Melchizedek

I was able to find some time to get into the shop and do a little.
If you remember last update 17 days ago, I was dealing with the throttle and choke set up.

I had everything working but with plastic clevises.

I went with 4/40 ball links on the throttle but had to stay with clevises on the choke. No room for both.
Also had to reroute the throttle to accommodate the ball link.

This all was a pain in the butt. Took a lot of fiddling to get things right. But am really happy with the throttle throw. Very smooth no slop.
The engine stand offs will get big washers. The washer by the throttle will get scalloped.



Was wanting some way to avoid plugging and unplugging wires. The only thing I was aware of was connectors that combined multiple servo wires into one connector. Then Robert posted this idea on another thread (forget what one).

These are Sub-D 9 pin computer connectors. There will be no fishing for wires during field assembly.

First I set them snuggly into 1/4 thick ply plates.



This shot is from cockpit back



I will put these plugs at the wing joints also.

Kevin

acerc

Here is a shot of a couple arms on a 33% Pitts. I reversed the direction of the throttle as well as made the extensions and redirected the choke.

Melchizedek

Thanks for the example Robert.

I am really satisfied with my final arrangement. But I scratch my head as to why the choke arm and throttle arm are on top of each other.
I also kind of hemmed myself inn with the location of the battery box.

I am learning a lot on this build. The next build will flow much smoother. Experience is priceless.

Kevin

VincentJ

There is no reason why these engine manufacturers need to have the choke and throttle arm on the same side. Why they don't put one on the opposite side is beyond me... Kevin, as a safety precaution you should always place a washer under the cap head screw that goes through the ball link. The idea here is if the ball link were to separate it would still stay on the arm. Do this anytime you use a ball link... Great job!

Melchizedek

Thanks Vincent,

Great tip.

I will be sure to add that washer on final assembly.

Kevin

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Great idea Kevin! I need to remember that!

Melchizedek

I have decided to take a pause on the Space Walker.
The reason is, my passion has dwindled. I have got a lot of blood and sweat into this build and it deserves a passionate heart to complete it.
After 10 months I need some freshness.
This does not mean it won't be completed. Believe me, it will. Just not now.
I have read a lot of threads that were great builds and then they stopped, uncompleted. This won't happen here.

I have started a new build and from time to time I will nickel and dime the Spacewalker and post updates. So stay tuned.

As for the new build ?

It is a 1/3 scale Wendell Hostetler Gilmore Red Lion. The 1/4 scale plans were enlarged 125 %

The link is below

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gold...l#post11949594

Kevin

acerc

We all take breaks now and then. Will be on the other build until you come back.

Cub Flyer Fresno

I completely understand Kevin. This is a hobby after all and sometimes other things come up... like work... and lots, and lots, and LOTS OF IT! Eh-hem... sorry about that.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I resemble your comment Cub Flyer! I did get a little work done this past week on my 182 but I don't have any pictures to post so....

bob scheppele

I just found your build thread recently and read through the entire thing. You've got building skills, I'll say that for you. Timing on finding your thread was pretty good. I ordered the Spacewalker kit last week. It arrived today. I haven't even opened the box yet.

balsadustmaker

Well Bob, expect a virtual lumber yard when you do open the box. It is a very large kit !