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Sig Spacewalker 1/3 scale (by rookie)

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Old 03-04-2014, 06:47 PM
  #76
Melchizedek
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Welcome, JohnShe


Well tonight was one of those few nights I felt like working on SW after work.
I build stuff all day at work, don't often feel like building again when I get home.

With the right wing off the build table (not complete yet still lots to do to it) I thought make some hay.
So I started the left wing. Just an update shot nothing more.



Many of you will know this.

Sig only gives the right wing on the prints.
If you take your prints and get them copied then turned into a PDF file.
You can do a mirror print of the wing panel and have the other half.
Of course all lettering is backward.

The top one is the original and the lower the mirror.


I don't mind telling you I was glad to have the other half.
After building left to right for two weeks I had to catch myself not thinking right to left.

Kevin
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Old 03-09-2014, 01:19 PM
  #77
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Just an update.

The left wing has been built up to the same point as the right.
Now I can flip them both over and work up both undersides at the same time.
This was my preference to do it this way as to one near complete half at a time.

You may notice the trailing edge of the right wing lifting a bit.
I haven't glued the sheet metal to the table top yet.
The sheet sits flat on the table except for the far right.
It lifts a little on the right and is lifting the wing on the far right.



Next up, work up the under side.

Kevin
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:35 AM
  #78
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Your work continues to impress me Kevin, great job. Looks like you may need to get a bigger build table!

Is that a vintage Ryan STA kit I see in the background? NICE!!!!!!

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Old 03-10-2014, 12:38 PM
  #79
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Thank you Vincent

I would love a bigger table. Only thing is I am a clutter bug. I would just fill it up with more mess.
The saving grace about doing a build log is it forces you (some of us anyway) to pick up before pics.

Yes that Vintage Ryan will probably be my next build. I fell in love with it while watching you build yours.
Your builds are infectious you know, in a good way.
Found it on ebay. I have not taken inventory of it yet.
It looks to be all there. The prints are permanently creased and the paper is yellowed and very delicate. It looked like
they hung on a wall (tape marks) for 10 years then folded tight, put back in box for another 20.
I am most happy to have it.

Kevin
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:37 PM
  #80
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Next up is preparing the trailing edge of the underside of wing.

Sig says to use epoxy to glue the trailing edge. 1 so balsa sheeting don't warp and 2 increase trailing edge strength.
I have seen G10 used on trailing edges for ding protection. I ordered some a while back to get my hands and eyes on some.
The sheet I have is .02 thick. A little on the thin side but decided to use it.

First ripped some on a table saw to 3/16 wide. I used a backer board to minimize chipping.


Next step was to put a rabbit on the edge of the sheeting to accept the G10.
The Trailing edge sheeting is 3/32 by 1 1/2. I set up a router to make the rabbit.



Machining a flimsy piece of balsa sheeting took some thought.

First I taped to pieces together to make them larger and easier to handle.
Taped the joint then filler taped the edge to keep the thickness the same.
Then placed them on edge of bench with the edge barely hanging over and locked them in place.
Place an in feed and out feed scrap piece to keep the router from cutting deep on ends.
Then ran router down edge to cut the rabbit.



These are the trailing edge with the .02 by 3/16 rabbit.


Then cut some 3/4 by 1 1/2 MDF strips for sandwich boards to make a flat laminations.
Mixed up some epoxy and set the G10 strips in there rabbits. Wax paper and clamped together.



Trimmed the building tabs from the trailing edge and sanded the top sheeting trailing edge to the contour of the bottom of wing.


Epoxy still drying on trailing edge sheeting.
Till next time.

Kevin
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Old 03-16-2014, 01:16 PM
  #81
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Very impressive Kevin.
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:22 AM
  #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acerc View Post
Very impressive Kevin.
Yes it is !
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:57 PM
  #83
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Thank you, Robert & Tom

Kevin
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:17 PM
  #84
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Kevin I think you are about to join an elite groupe of builders with the work your doing. Your construction is very clean at this point and I expect it to continue on the rest of it. Very nice indeed.

Leroy
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:13 AM
  #85
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+1
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:44 PM
  #86
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Leroy & Vincent Yay...........


Seriously, what a nice compliment.
Humbling.

Thank You

Kevin

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Old 03-19-2014, 02:42 PM
  #87
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Greetings,

Got a little done last night.

Unclamped the trailing edges and was pleased how they turned out.

In the first photo from left to right g10 up, down, up, down.





Cleaned them up a little with a sanding block and then proceeded to glue trailing edge down with g10 up.

I used spacer sticks to position the trailing edge at the proper distance back and for trueness.
Spacers touched trailing edge of rear wing spar and front edge of trailing edge.
Spread epoxy down trailing edge glue line. Pinned into place and clamped.




I used hysol epoxy. Normally I will just pump it out in a mixing cup and mix it by hand and not use the mixing tips.
But with 8 foot of glue line I decided to hit the " easy button" and use a tip.



That's all for now.

Kevin
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:12 AM
  #88
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Next up is the wing mount blocks and ply plates.

I was not happy with how this went. My guess it will be ok but still not happy.
This might be a take note post for those of you who intend to build the SW.
But then again, maybe not ! (said the candlestick to the beast) .

Ok, following the recipe from the build manual.
Find 1 1/2 " square ply wing mounting plates. Check
Position them on wing bottom according to plan. Check
Cut out sheeting to make room for plates. Check
Everything good at this point.




Well I cut the sheeting to make room for the plates.
Next cut the triangular shaped balsa block to fit between ribs and slip between sheeting. Not so Check
Let me explain
First (insert rookie) I did not take note triangle block not symmetrical. Slant of top of wing dif from bottom.
The inboard end needed to be cut at 5 deg. Well I cut them upside down and put the 5 deg on the outboard end.
Now they will be short. Check
So I begin to slip them in the pocket.
Turns out because of the little glue fillets and run downs from the sheeting, a nice tight fit might be a fools errand.
I have to make all kinds of compromises to get this wedge into place.
Get everything into place and rely on epoxy to fill voids. Check
I did clamp a straight edge to top of wing (wing upside down) to keep the sheeting from budging when triangle and epoxy pressed into place




If I had this to do over. I would have fit triangular balsa block in between ribs before sheeting top or bottom of trailing edge.
This would have made a tight fit easy. Assuming the 5 deg angle is put on correct end.
Then after sheeting mortise ply plate in place with router or dremel with router base.
But then again, Maybe Not.

Kevin
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:09 AM
  #89
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No build goes smoothly all the time. There are always a few bumps in the road. We all hit them.

Just yesterday, I ran into a similar problem, same part, different airframe and kit company. For some reason, I followed the instructions. Afterwards, I figured out that they had done it the hard way. LOL

Your build is coming along well. You should be pleased.
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:38 PM
  #90
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Tom,
Thanks for checking in.
I am pleased with how things are going so far. Was just lamenting on that Bump in my road.
It spilled coffee all over me.

I find a complex structure fascinating to look at, more so than after it is skinned.
This wing is cool to behold with all the circular cutouts and such standing in line like little soldiers.

After the epoxy dried I gave both halves a good flex at the wing bolt plate area. The epoxy bridged things really well its good and stiff.

Was time to skin leading edge.
This time I made a cawl to press the skin down.

Cut a 3" wide piece of 3/4 mdf. This stuff was good and straight, would not have been suitable otherwise.
Then cut a little shoe for the front edge (bottom of slope), and glued it the plate.
Then trial fit it to see if everything was aok. No glue on at this point.




After leading edge sheeting glued, attention was turned to rear spar and aileron spare.
The rear spar was added on to just like the top was back on post #71.
What was different this time is the front aileron spar is back to far for my aileron mod.
So I made notches for a new spar moving it forward 3/16 from its current position.

Also if you notice in the second photo below, the end aileron ribs on both ends are already cut to the stock aileron profile.
This meant there would be nothing to hold the spar when the aileron is cut from the wings.
So I decided to leave the old spar at the ends and bridge it to the new spar.
This would give a little girth until bullnose is glued to leading edge of aileron.
Then cut the old spare out in between.




I'm getting excited to complete wings to the point of separation but still much to do.

Kevin
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Old 03-23-2014, 05:27 PM
  #91
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Keven it sure looks straight, nice bit of construction and the pictures make it look 10' long. Are the ailerons hinged on top like the 1/4 scale and tapered leading edge for down travel.

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Old 03-23-2014, 06:19 PM
  #92
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Hi Leroy,

Yes the stock aileron is just how you describe.


What I am doing is reflected in this second picture. You will see why all the moving of the spars.



Yes the pictures do make it look 10 ft. The size of the room I'm working in really only lets me take shots from one end.
There is only about 36 inch on each side of table. I do have a wide angle lens. Maybe I will give that a try.

Kevin
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:52 AM
  #93
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Kevin each "speed bump" that you hit just gives you more experience for future builds. Things are shaping up very nicely...keep up the good work.
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:52 PM
  #94
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OK now I see what your doing, an inset rotating aileron will be nice, then you will use radio to adjust differential I suspect. Being as wide as it is you are going to have to extend the point on the wing side if your useing Robart hinge points, there is a method to do that if you need to know.

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Old 03-24-2014, 02:05 PM
  #95
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Yes, I am planning on using the Robart hinges.
And yes extension will be necessary.
I figured I would set the wing end in a peg or tube and then glue that into the wing.

This will be my first experience with Robart hinges.
Yes would love to see the method you speak of.
Much to learn, I do.

Kevin
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:34 PM
  #96
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Kevin pictures arn't the greatest, sorry. Extension tubes size for 3/16" hinge points is O.D. .219" and has a wall thickness of .015 thow., fits hinge near perfect, I slid point in it and marked it then sat it along side to mark the barbs, put it back in and with a tubing cutter ran it around the marks just enough to make an impression, you dont want to cut it, it will be solid as a rock when your done just cut it to the length you want then make another, the grooves will grab the glue when you install them. ( USE 30 min. EPOXY)

A 1/4" bit for the tubes will work well and a pinch clamp at each end of aileron to wing will get you perfect alignment. For spacing I use two layers of file folder which can be easily pulled out after glue sets. When you do these hinges put them in aileron first.

Leroy
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:40 PM
  #97
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Thanks for the demo Leroy.

I would not have thought of putting the ribs in the brass tube like that.
Very Clever. I will put that into "Best Practices" category and employ it.

Kevin
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:30 PM
  #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melchizedek View Post
Thanks for the demo Leroy.

I would not have thought of putting the ribs in the brass tube like that.
Very Clever. I will put that into "Best Practices" category and employ it.

Kevin
Kevin I forgot to mention that when drilling the blocks make sure you drill clear through them, if you don't the pressure of installing the hinge will push glue out toward the pivot head instead of out the back and you don't want that.

Leroy
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:36 PM
  #99
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Thanks' Leroy on the heads up about the Shmooey squeeze out.

I was pondering the hinge points and there installation.
Make a jig to drill them later or .................

This approach may be unorthodox and or ill advised, but here goes.

First cut some strips of poplar 7/16 x 7/16 by 4" .
Then set up a jig on drill press to hold them square straight up and down.
Then drilled 3/16 hole in the center.



I drew a line down the face that set against the fence for indexing purposes.
I then cut them into lengths of one robart leg and one longer for the extended leg.
Each length was numbered with it's brother for indexing purposes.
The left over was cut into 7/8 long spacers that were slimmed down.
I then cut 3/16 dowel rod to line them all up.



My intension is to center these hinge blocks on the hinge line and in there place front and back.
The 7/8 inch spacer on a diet is part of this.
I then cut lengths of mdf that will index these hinge blocks front to back.
Then glued a shelf to one end to hold the front block at the correct elevation.
That elevation is indexed from the top of the wing rib.
Everything is indexed from the front main spar.



Each outboard and inboard hinge block got a 3/16 shim glued to it to keep it in plane with the aileron ends.
A shim block was used to index the elevation of the trailing edge block.



All blocks were epoxied and clamped in place.
The face of the blocks that were against drill press fence got the glue.
The wing trailing edge block bridges a lightening hole .
After epoxy sets I will go back and reinforce blocks.
The dowel rods will be pushed out and the 7/8 spacers discarded.

This shot is with a wide angle lens.




Till next time,

Kevin
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:50 AM
  #100
Melchizedek
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Next up is leading edge.

Actually next up was going to be cutting out the trailing edge spar at aileron.
I had already added to the back of it to make up what I will take out.
But I could not find my 1/4 inch router bit. No surprise here.
This is one of my crosses in life. Set something down with a grand idea in my mind
and the thing I set down is gone forever. Or at least till I don't need it anymore.
I digress.

I decided to work horizontal on this part and use gravity in my favor.
So turned the wings on edge and cleaned up the overhanging leading edge sheeting.

Used a router for this. I did not cut it all the way down. Left about 1/32 to sand flush.
I climb cut the sheeting. Climb cutting is when you feed stock backwards so the bit does not tear out the material.
Climb cutting can be very dangerous on hardwood if careless or inexperienced (sometimes even if experienced and not careless).
Insert " Don't try this at home" . On soft balsa not so much.

This left two parallel edges for the sanding bar to easily finish off nice and square.



I thought this was a cool shot. The pic is not as cool as in person cause of lighting.



Here is a shot of my hinge bosses.




The leading edge is 1/4 x 7/8




Next I made some profile end blocks out of oak, why oak ? That's what I had laying around and it is hard.
Then I cut some 1/4 x 1/4 x 6 strips to extend the profile out to these end blocks.
I thought I got a pic of this but didn't .
I tac glued the sticks to the sheeting in four locations around the leading edge profile sticking out past the end 2 inches.
I then tucked the oak profile blocks up into over hanging sticks and ca'd then in place.
This left me with hard points left and right to sand the profile to.
I then used a 56" long straight edge with 80 grit stuck to it and sanded to the oak profile blocks.



Shaping the leading edge on this long of a wing I found to be a pain in the but.
It is almost a 2 person job. You hold while I go to town on this.
I was the only one at home so, I hold while I go to town on this.
Oh well, got er done. Feels good.



Kevin
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Last edited by Melchizedek; 03-30-2014 at 02:38 PM. Reason: added info
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