Sig Spacewalker 1/3 scale (by rookie)
#601
"OH YEAH" finishing up the cussing stuff and on to the fun stuff. When you get into the cowl it's always interesting setting it up. fuel lines, choke, throttle, ignition and batteries often with limited room to work in. You'll do well, just like the rest of it. I think your on the road home, it's been a trip, you think.
Leroy
Leroy
#602
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
I would always slow down for some reason when it came to the motor and servo connections . just not did not do it enough i guess and wanted everything to work smooth . I wish some of my old tools they use to make were still being sold to you new builders Keven ,they did not use plastic or cheap metal back then . My landing gear wire bender with two different size bending blocks from small wire to 5/16 and a bigger handle so you did not pull anything bending it. This is my small one made in the USA and you get the idea and could build one some day. Clamp the block in a vice and bend away but the ones i see now are plastic from china. joe
#605
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Joe, Nothing like the old school tools. There were built like a tool should be built. Tim the Tool Man Taylor Tuff.
Mike, Thanks for the K & S post. I will need to get me one and then mod it to the Binford tool standard.
Well I have been working on the Top Notch Continental engine kit. When I saw it hanging out of Leroy's SW. I had to have it.
The Kit is outstanding in quality and well thought out. Worth every penny.
Started on the kit last weekend and finished it today. I then cut the holes in the cowl and made pockets for the engine.
The Pockets hold each engine half and isolate them from the DLE 55.
I will eventually glass the pockets to the cowl on the DLE side. This will permanently secure them and fuel proof them.
The walls of the pocket are Balsa and the back is 1/8 light ply.
I used the template that came with the kit to mark for the cutout. It allows for 1/4 gap all around.
I cut it to specs but wish I had made the gap 1/8 instead. I think it would have looked much better. Oh well.
Since we are talking engines. I ordered an EME 70 twin for the next build. Teaser
Kevin
Mike, Thanks for the K & S post. I will need to get me one and then mod it to the Binford tool standard.
Well I have been working on the Top Notch Continental engine kit. When I saw it hanging out of Leroy's SW. I had to have it.
The Kit is outstanding in quality and well thought out. Worth every penny.
Started on the kit last weekend and finished it today. I then cut the holes in the cowl and made pockets for the engine.
The Pockets hold each engine half and isolate them from the DLE 55.
I will eventually glass the pockets to the cowl on the DLE side. This will permanently secure them and fuel proof them.
The walls of the pocket are Balsa and the back is 1/8 light ply.
I used the template that came with the kit to mark for the cutout. It allows for 1/4 gap all around.
I cut it to specs but wish I had made the gap 1/8 instead. I think it would have looked much better. Oh well.
Since we are talking engines. I ordered an EME 70 twin for the next build. Teaser
Kevin
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Hi Vince.
I like the look too! That dummy engine in the nose gives the sw a look of realism.
I think Roberts just giving me the business.
I personally would prefer the gap to be a tight 1/8.
The gap at 1/4 is probably spot on for engine vibration on the model and the real 3/4.
Since my engine will be vibrating with the cowl and not contrary.
1/8 gap would yeald a nicer fit and finish. My preference.
Currently I am disposed to tightening up that gap. But that might change by the time I get around to it.
Kevin
I like the look too! That dummy engine in the nose gives the sw a look of realism.
I think Roberts just giving me the business.
I personally would prefer the gap to be a tight 1/8.
The gap at 1/4 is probably spot on for engine vibration on the model and the real 3/4.
Since my engine will be vibrating with the cowl and not contrary.
1/8 gap would yeald a nicer fit and finish. My preference.
Currently I am disposed to tightening up that gap. But that might change by the time I get around to it.
Kevin
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Houston,the monstrous holes have been patched.
It was a tedious job but worth it. These engines will be a major focal point on this plane. So it was important to me that the holes not look like a whoopsy.
On version 1 the upper edge of the pocket was hallow. Left it that way cause of the complex shape and it really would not be seen.
But since I was wrapping the holes with 1/8 balsa I needed a solid wall (roof) to glue to.
First up was to fit a balsa block up in the pocket. Then I filled the remainder with a mixture of epoxy and micro balloons.
Then I wrapped each pocket with 1/8 inch balsa. The balsa was glued in place with slow cure epoxy. Once that was set it was sanded flush with cowl.
Once I was satisfied with the fit. The balsa ledge was sanded beneath the surface and then a slurry of epoxy and micro balloons was smeared over the balsa ledge and cowl edge.
Then it was sanded to the outer contour.
Bellow is version 1 on the left version 2 on the right.
Kevin
It was a tedious job but worth it. These engines will be a major focal point on this plane. So it was important to me that the holes not look like a whoopsy.
On version 1 the upper edge of the pocket was hallow. Left it that way cause of the complex shape and it really would not be seen.
But since I was wrapping the holes with 1/8 balsa I needed a solid wall (roof) to glue to.
First up was to fit a balsa block up in the pocket. Then I filled the remainder with a mixture of epoxy and micro balloons.
Then I wrapped each pocket with 1/8 inch balsa. The balsa was glued in place with slow cure epoxy. Once that was set it was sanded flush with cowl.
Once I was satisfied with the fit. The balsa ledge was sanded beneath the surface and then a slurry of epoxy and micro balloons was smeared over the balsa ledge and cowl edge.
Then it was sanded to the outer contour.
Bellow is version 1 on the left version 2 on the right.
Kevin
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No sweat Robert. Don't mind at all.
Was just my preference to tighten things up. I like tight tolerances on almost everything.
The other thing that was done on version 2 is, 1/4 inch was removed from the bottom of each engine half.
This was done to bring the dimension from port valve cover to starboard valve cover to the scale dimension.
Kevin
Was just my preference to tighten things up. I like tight tolerances on almost everything.
The other thing that was done on version 2 is, 1/4 inch was removed from the bottom of each engine half.
This was done to bring the dimension from port valve cover to starboard valve cover to the scale dimension.
Kevin
#616
Well now aren't you a crafty one, nice job closing up the gap. Must be where the saying, where there's a will there's a way came from. One thing you have demonstrated through out your build is getting things done and you are good at it.
Leroy
Leroy
#622
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Got to spend a little time in the shop today.
Worked on the engine control linkage.
A few months back I had set it up for steel cable. Since then have read a few posts that this is not a good idea for gassers.
So I got some Golden rod from the LHS. Drilled the cable ways a little bigger to accommodate the casing.
Then It became clear that the choke lever was to close to the firewall to have room for the clevis.
After pondering it a little while. I turned a piece of maple into a 9/16 dowel. Then drilled a 1/4 inch hole into it to create a pocket for the clevis.
Then drilled a 9/16 hole in the FW and epoxied it in.
http://youtu.be/PfwK8llFmPY
Kevin
Worked on the engine control linkage.
A few months back I had set it up for steel cable. Since then have read a few posts that this is not a good idea for gassers.
So I got some Golden rod from the LHS. Drilled the cable ways a little bigger to accommodate the casing.
Then It became clear that the choke lever was to close to the firewall to have room for the clevis.
After pondering it a little while. I turned a piece of maple into a 9/16 dowel. Then drilled a 1/4 inch hole into it to create a pocket for the clevis.
Then drilled a 9/16 hole in the FW and epoxied it in.
http://youtu.be/PfwK8llFmPY
Kevin
#623
Looks like that should work Kevin, one thing you might consider is the vibration effects on the nylon clevis which has a very small pin in it, (speaking of the throttle) it's a good place for a ball link with a safety washer on it to prevent it from ever coming off, a piece of cable with it's flexability might be a better choice connected to an easy connector at the throttle arm, it's very easy to adjust also. I solder a good inch of the cable where it goes through the servo connecter, it helps to prevent slippage and cable frays.
Just an idea to kick around.
Leroy
Just an idea to kick around.
Leroy
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Thanks Leroy for your suggestions. You always leave thoughtful posts, I so much appreciate you for that my friend
I probably will go with the ball link on the throttle arm. The swing puts just a smidge of a bind in the control arm. The ball link will eliminate that for sure.
Also will take your suggestion on making sure connector is bullet proof. Yesterdays shop time was focused on making the geometry correct and finding potential problems like the choke arm. Then cementing the tubes in place. The final tweaks will come at up fit after primer/paint.
It is interesting the school of thought on engine control linkages. Like I stated in the above post I intended on steel cable. This is what I am familiar with. But Some believe (if I am reiterating it correctly) that steel cable introduces the potential for the electronic static from the ignition/spark to get into the electronics and cause problems. I have no actual experience with this but felt it safe to avoid it (this is my first gasser) Having just tried the Golden Rod. I like it. It slides effortlessly. With the short throw, I don't anticipate any slop.
The other school of thought was the steel verses plastic clevises. The guys in my club don't like the steel cause they believe it is more prone to vibration issues. So they say plastic. Most of these guys are flying 60 size glow mostly. This is why I opted for the plastic. The Golden rod came with metal clevises.
The plastic ones in the above pics come with the fuel line snippets as a keeper so that the clevis does not separate. Also the metal clevises have keepers that are tiny and hard to handle and easy to loose (Balloonia) . I think that with the light duty of throttle/ choke the plastic will never fail and that with the rubber keepers will not vibrate apart or loose. Could be wrong on this though.
In any event, I will be going with the ball link on the throttle and keeping the plastic for the other 3 clevises.
One thing with having to remove the cockpit module to assemble and disassemble the plane. I will see regularly at least the servo side of the clevises.
And will make sure the carb side is bullet proof. Hopefully no missiles will be fired. Hard to make things missile proof .
Kevin
I probably will go with the ball link on the throttle arm. The swing puts just a smidge of a bind in the control arm. The ball link will eliminate that for sure.
Also will take your suggestion on making sure connector is bullet proof. Yesterdays shop time was focused on making the geometry correct and finding potential problems like the choke arm. Then cementing the tubes in place. The final tweaks will come at up fit after primer/paint.
It is interesting the school of thought on engine control linkages. Like I stated in the above post I intended on steel cable. This is what I am familiar with. But Some believe (if I am reiterating it correctly) that steel cable introduces the potential for the electronic static from the ignition/spark to get into the electronics and cause problems. I have no actual experience with this but felt it safe to avoid it (this is my first gasser) Having just tried the Golden Rod. I like it. It slides effortlessly. With the short throw, I don't anticipate any slop.
The other school of thought was the steel verses plastic clevises. The guys in my club don't like the steel cause they believe it is more prone to vibration issues. So they say plastic. Most of these guys are flying 60 size glow mostly. This is why I opted for the plastic. The Golden rod came with metal clevises.
The plastic ones in the above pics come with the fuel line snippets as a keeper so that the clevis does not separate. Also the metal clevises have keepers that are tiny and hard to handle and easy to loose (Balloonia) . I think that with the light duty of throttle/ choke the plastic will never fail and that with the rubber keepers will not vibrate apart or loose. Could be wrong on this though.
In any event, I will be going with the ball link on the throttle and keeping the plastic for the other 3 clevises.
One thing with having to remove the cockpit module to assemble and disassemble the plane. I will see regularly at least the servo side of the clevises.
And will make sure the carb side is bullet proof. Hopefully no missiles will be fired. Hard to make things missile proof .
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 11-28-2014 at 07:42 AM.
#625
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Kevin, I completely agree that plastic is risky for throttle and choke be it gas or glow. The biggest issue is not so much the ignition or radio noise but rather the noise the metal can create itself at certain vibrations. I use the bolt on ball link type as seen in the pic, they are bullet proof. I would also like to suggest you get all these type things done prior to prime and paint in case something needs adjusting so as to not risk scratching or other damage.