68goat

My Feedback: (40)

Thanks Glenn. Where you decide to balance the a/c will influence effective elevator deflection. Less deflection is needed if cg is towards the rearmost recommended range. I had mine set up pretty much neutral and i think it flew scale-like with about 3/4" of throw. Good luck and be sure to post a picture when she is finished.

68goat
BUSA brother #17

3136

Thanks VG, I ordered a proctor dummy merc ( not cheap $120 usd delivered to Aus), not sure what scheme to go with but may as well order the gtm fabric while it's available, gtm don't do a D7 cockpit kit any more, but I see they are getting into 3d printed stuff, so maybe down the road he'll make something.
I probably won't start for a year or so, just want to collect bits while I can.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Now I agree that if you are going to compete in a contest, or are really into scale, then Proctor is the best. I have a set of their wheels and they look great. As does their motor, with some work. But if you are on a budget and still want more than the Balsa USA motor up front... nothing beats broken drum sticks, Bic pen parts, broken clevises and a few other odds and ends in most builders shop. VG, I am glad to see that some folks still enter the Nats with a bird of less than 1/3 scale. Best wishes.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

There are certainly ways to recreate these details. The problem is, it is tough to know exactly how they should look, unless you have a ton of pictures. When you buy a kit, like the proctor, at least you are given the documentation, and the parts to have a good place to start. The Proctor kit is not perfect, and it takes some time, but it is good. I would not coil your own springs as they would have you do though. Just buy them from a hardware store. They literally would have you wrap soft wire around a dowel, to create the springs! Truly not practical in my mind.

I want to mention that I have been working on the nomenclature details with Get Stencils. This is for all of the little lettering, the weight tables, the rigging diagram, the incidence markings, and the model numbers. These are all in 1/4 scale and are all dry rub. I feel this is the best way to go, as they have proven quite durable. If anyone needs these, you can just contact getstencils, and they will already have it worked up, you will just have to change the numbers to your particular plane. For me, this is a pretty big deal really, as this stuff is nearly impossible to paint.

I had all of mine done for my Fokker DR1 as well, so those would be easily ordered from them as well. Of course, you need to be painting your iron crosses and the bigger stuff anyway right? So no, those are not available as a dry bub, but paint masks can be had as well.

3136

Thanks again VG all those little details would be handy in a dry rub, I need to pick a scheme now, I'm happy to buy GTM fabric , but need a bit of colour to make it stand out at my field against the hill.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I have used the getstencils dry rubs. First rate. Easy to use. Good people to deal with.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Here is the weight table dry rub on my Fokker DR1. The Werk number was a paint stencil I used from Get stencils, to airbrush that. They both worked out great. And the system they use for the paint stencils worked very well.

AMA 74894

My Feedback: (1)

very nice work, both jeffEE and VG!

Quagmire

My Feedback: (4)

I want the brownish olive drab color pc-10, Mick Reeves carries it but won't ship paint.
any one have any luck having it mixed at paint store like home depot, I don't think I want to use house paint, any ideas
I could just go with olive drab but that's going to bug the crap out of me later
Thanks for any input, Ron

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I think the Latex worked out pretty good on these 2 models. The FW 190 was airbrushed extensively, so it works that way as well. Very easy to use, clean up, and has great properties for weathering. I pretty much use Behr Latex exclusively. The Fokker had it's fabric doped, then I used latex for the color.

Steve Percifield

My Feedback: (14)

Going to start the streaking on my 1/3 D-VII tonight. Heres a couple of shots of the fuse and my test panel.
l

Highflyer2

My Feedback: (1)

Steve,

I remember Del Johnson told me when applying the streaking you dip the brush and get a good amount of paint then make one pass down stroke move over a brush width and then brush up do that till the paint gets light before you add more paint to the brush. If it looks to light in places you can always touch it up.

John

Steve Percifield

My Feedback: (14)

John,
I did a lot ( too much) of research on the streaking. In fact it has held me up finishing this model because I'm chicken. Any way, I have found several desriptions that match, and that is what i tried to duplicate. Early D-VII streaking was put on over doped linen. The streaking actually involved 2 colors of green, and depending on the article, even blue. They used an 8 cm brush, dipping one side in the lighter shade of green and the other side in an olive shade of green, and then brush as you have said. When the paint thinned out, they dipped again and kept going. I read one account where that author said the 2 colors were put over a base coat of aqua.
My test panel is 2 colors of green, an olive drab and a slightly greener tone, put on with a 1" brush. Mixing and dipping as I went. I think it curious that in one spot it actually looks blue. No blue was used. Any way. Right or wrong, this is what it's gonna have. I've messed with this plane way too long. Time tio fly it.

Quagmire

My Feedback: (4)

VG looks like that's the way to go, What did you use for thinner, I'm painting over solartex any special primer needed, I can build ok but I have limited myself to rattle cans and its time to kick it up a notch, Nice job on the 190 that's a pica kit, I'm working on one on also.
Ron

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Sir Percy ...... it looks great! Please carry on.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I thin with windshield washer fluid. Yah, the blue stuff. Add a little Floetrol as well to break the surface tension. Helps it to lay down real nice.

Quagmire

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the info I'll post some pics when I get there

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

Quagmire,

I too tried to get Mick Reeves to ship colors but . . .int'l restrictions.

you might try Nelson paints. He sells a latex version. Abufletcher (RCU) i feel really nailed the colors on his SE-5a. he used nelson PC-10 but went and added some tamiya red, brown and black to get a better weathered and to me more accurate looking PC-10. but ask 3 guys and get 3 diff answers. See attached pic as it shows the two on white background.

Not sure which PC you really mean as you mix brownish and Olive in same description
i use this gouge to keep them strait.


PC - Protective Covering
PC-10 was the greenish olive used on Western front.
PC-12 was the more brownish khaki used in the Middle East front, Palestine.

According to the WW1 British Aeroplane Colors and Markings by Bruce Robertson, PC12 was a "browner finish" than PC10. PC12 was also "advocated for naval aircraft". The pigments used were Red iron oxide & Carbon black. Hope this helps.

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

I used the same as Vertical G. l

solartex natural covering from BUSA. I painted with latex house paint (Tayer's do it center) matched a scrap color chip. Added clear windshield washer about 30% to thin and about 10% Flotrol and sprayed via an auto detailing spray gun.

Quagmire

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks, FireBee I read that pc-10 would turn brown with age but like you said lots of opinions out there, I might try to lay down the pc-10 then thin out the pc-12 and give a quick wipe so it gets in all the stitches and
seams use like weathering, I have until October to finish for OCMA Dawn patrol at black star canyon

Steve Percifield

My Feedback: (14)

Here's the fuse, and the fuse with the stab.....

slowly getting there...

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Steve, that looks great!

R/C Ray

My Feedback: (6)

Put me down on your list. Dave is a great guy who stands behind their products and will help you out anytime. I have built and rebuilt a number of their planes. I feel the SE 5A and my Fokker DVII are the best fliers.

Nieuport 17
Nieuport 28
Spad XIII
SE 5A
Fokker DVII

Fokker DRI (to be built this winter)

Ray.

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

Steve, a bold and amazing look you created.

Luxuswaffe

Ok, it's not a WW I bird. It's still considered a 'vintage': The BalsaUSA Moonraker.

I converted this all to electric. The plan is almost perfect for the electrical components to replace the nitro concept.