Steve Percifield

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here's a link to pictures of the Dayton Dawn Patrol Rendezvous that just completed. Almost 100 RC pilots with probably 150 aircraft. A great dhow. You will see our sponsor had a presence there as well. BUSA was well represented.




https://plus.google.com/photos/10830...49186749808241

3136

Photo 119, some numskull put the steering wheel on the wrong side of that car!!

Awesome pics Steve, thanks for sharing.

Steve Percifield

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try here: http://www.replicraft.us.fm/plansets.htm

Steve Percifield

My Feedback: (14)

sorry, must have put that slide in backwards
sp

Corsair2013

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I posted this in the Cub thread also - Does anyone have a drawing for the L-4 1/4 scale? I am looking for the Fuselage Top View drawing. Will pay for drawing and postage.

I want to change my new BUSA J3 Kit to a L-4.

Thanks

Keith

AndyF

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I have been making some progress on my Pup. I build the control stick and built the instrument panel. I bought the Mick Reeve's deluxe panel kit and used my own "dash board." Used his as a pattern and cut out the holes for the gauges. I modified the compass because I didn't like the looks of the supplied graphic.

This is my solution to making the compass look more realistic.

This is the Mick Reeves image.


Andy

s3nfo

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Trying to decide between the D-7 and the SE-5 to replace the Dr1. Prefer the looks of the SE-5, but there's just no good, unique color schemes for the SE-5, whereas every D-7 in the world had a unique color scheme. Hard choice, anybody flown both that can compare and contrast?

foodstick

I have flown both, the SE5a is a dream to fly, but the D7 is more of a precision flier.. It just carves better, and rolls nice as well.

jwrich

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The BUSA Fokker D VII is the best flying RC airplane I have had in 30+ years of flying. You are correct there are several more color schemes for the D VII. You can go wrong with the Fokker D VII with the Zenoah 38 engine. Here some pictures of D VII's









Rich

s3nfo

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Thanks guys, D-7 it is

AMA 74894

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I'm not sure if this is GOOD or BAD news, but I actually got my workshop put back together and now have my Pup on a proper building table, and not on my living room floor
I'm not a stranger to building by any means, but I just can not seem to get my head around how the wings attach on this airplane... there doesn't seem to be any structure at all in the fuselage (save for two holes drilled through the ply fuselage sides... ) to accept the lower wing dowels... am I missing something ridiculously obvious?
I did also get sort of carried away with the fabric stitching ... I figured since the wing had such an undercamber, (and I'm using plain fabric Koverall and dope) I'm stitching the fabric to the wings and tail surfaces, rather than using simulated stitching...

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

The cables hold the wings onto the fuselage........have a little faith.

Nice to see someone else actually stitching the fabric onto the airframe. Before you go any further on the stitching......... add a strip of covering over each rib from front to back - this should be only as wide as the rib.....then do your stitching......then add another strip of covering over each rib which is wide enough to completely seal where the stiches go through the covering. The first strip adds strength to the covering and the second strip seals and weather proofs the covering job.

Nice work so far - it is up to you whether you want to go back and put the reinforcing strip of covering material on your fin........you would have to re-do the stitching.

Cheers,
Art

R/C Ray

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Nfo,

Wait just a minute! The SE 5A has a few things that are major plus's. First of all the SE 5A can be covered with Olive Drab World Tex. The Lozenge covering that most DVII's require is a major headache. The other thing that the SE 5a has going for it is the "steerable tail skid". The plane handles on the ground like it has a tail wheel! I have both planes, as a trouble free scale flying plane, I feel the SE 5a is the better choice......just my two cents. You won't go wrong with either one, Good Luck.

Ray

AndyF

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Jim it looks good. See above for what I did to my BUSA 1/3 scale pup. If you build it according to BUSA plans, the flying wires towards the back of the wing don't go through the wing to the landing gear like on the full scale bird. Because the sides of the fuse are light ply you really have to beef up the area inside the fuse that will hold the metal plate to which the wires attach. The flying wires are really the only thing that hold the wings in place. Some of the guys have added wing bolts through the side of the fuse to hold the wings tight to the side of the fuse.

I posted a link to an archive that contains scans of actual drawings for the original pup. You can find a lot of scale details to improve the look of your bird.



I gutted the entire inside of the fuse from the firewall back and added bracing where I think I need it. You'll notice that I cut out all of the light ply from the third half round former back from the firewall and added the shaped formers to mimic the full scale Pup. My yoke and rudder bar will function just as in the full scale plane. I am attaching the cabane struts just like scale and I am creating a scale under carriage. I order some parts from the Mick Reeves website in the UK.

Good luck with yours the covering looks awesome.

Andy

vertical grimmace

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I am wondering, has anyone ever tried raising both ailerons slightly on one of their BUSA WW1 models to aid in ground handling, mainly take offs and landings on the triplane? I am thinking it may add washout, always a good thing.

s3nfo

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Thanks Ray,

Actually was a hard choice and the lozenge covering was a plus, just looks so good and available pre-colored from both BUSA and GTM, so not that big a deal. With a name like Neuberger though, I just had to go with the Fokker.

a65l

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Throw me a number, too... this may qualify:





Although I'm at a loss as to why there aren't a whole lot more of them in here.....


Spad 13 is on the list next...

AMA 74894

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Thanks, Andy, I have downloaded the drawings, (RC Ken let me know the day those pics went up )
Yours looks absolutely beautiful! My NEXT one MAY approach that level of detail... (I hope )

AndyF

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Jim!

I just bought a set of Replicraft plans from Jim Kilger for the Pup and they have great details. If I ever do another, I am going to go full scale with including all of the turn buckles and the "X" wire bracing. I figured that 5/16 would be pretty close to 1/3 scale for the longerons the full scale ones are 1" square. It would be a hell of a lot of work, but it might be fun.

3136

BUSA brothers
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Welcome a65l, yes the DH-4 is an impressive model, I saw a kit going pretty cheap once, but didn't buy it due to the size.

Grimracer

may I?

Grimracer... #85...

got some questions.. what weights are your D7 (1/4) coming in at.. and what CG range are you flying at. (thanks)

Grimracer

3136

Welcome Grimracer, list above edited.
My D7 is still in the box, so I can't help but I'm sure the hood will help you out.

vertical grimmace

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Mine is 22 lbs, and I think 5" back on top wing. The recommended spot on the plans.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

All three of mine came in at between 19 and 22 lbs. 5 inches is the perfect CG. With the 5 color lozenge that Balsa USA has to offer, covering is a breeze, and the full size DVII had a steerable tail skid too.

Grimracer

OK Thanks... Hope mine flys OK.. 25lbs..

Thannks brothers!...

Grimracer