Balsa USA Brotherhood
12-30-2014, 03:15 PM
#801
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: menominee, MI
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Jeffo,
What drive unit are you talking about, the Mick Reeves one or the Schlundt from Vogelsang. What motor are you using with the drive unit. I do not have any experience with the Mick Reeves. I believe the Mick Reeves is 1.75 to 1 compared to the Schlundt which is 2.5 to 1 spinning a 34 x 18 or 20 These are for G-62's. The prop rpm's on the ground is 2900. The Schlundt from Vogelsang will make any 1/3 scale WWI model fly great
Wild Bill
What drive unit are you talking about, the Mick Reeves one or the Schlundt from Vogelsang. What motor are you using with the drive unit. I do not have any experience with the Mick Reeves. I believe the Mick Reeves is 1.75 to 1 compared to the Schlundt which is 2.5 to 1 spinning a 34 x 18 or 20 These are for G-62's. The prop rpm's on the ground is 2900. The Schlundt from Vogelsang will make any 1/3 scale WWI model fly great
Wild Bill
12-30-2014, 07:07 PM
#804
I think it is a matter of having practical power, to maintain safe flight and be able to get out of trouble. I did not install a 50cc engine in my DVII to hover the thing. I do fly it in a scale manner. But there were times it would just not climb out properly. I do not even do much in the way of aerobatics honestly. But the larger prop sure helps the roll. The DVII has such small ailerons, and the more air you can get over them sure helps. I would rather fly at 1/4 throttle than at full throttle and pray that I get a good climb out on take off. But this has been my experience. It seems to be completely different than others.
Andy
12-31-2014, 11:33 AM
#807
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
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HAPPY NEW YEAR.
I made my first video. This is just of the engine's first run and idle of my ¼ semi-scale Sopwith Scout "pup".
Don't beat me up to bad as this is my first video. The video is before the weathering.
Tomorrow the 1st is a go for my maiden flight.
Here is my link.
http://youtu.be/jXT8nN6kEh8
Here are some photos of my weathering. Let me know if you like new and clean or a fully weathered plane?
Thanks,
Michael
I made my first video. This is just of the engine's first run and idle of my ¼ semi-scale Sopwith Scout "pup".
Don't beat me up to bad as this is my first video. The video is before the weathering.
Tomorrow the 1st is a go for my maiden flight.
Here is my link.
http://youtu.be/jXT8nN6kEh8
Here are some photos of my weathering. Let me know if you like new and clean or a fully weathered plane?
Thanks,
Michael
12-31-2014, 12:03 PM
#808
Looks great!
Question? Are those holes in the bottom for cooling/exit air? You may want to look at installing one of these. I have them on my triplane and they work great. The louver creates low pressure that literally sucks the hot air out. You may be able to shop around and find them cheaper. One thing is for sure, you do not want that hot air to get stuck in there and swirl around. You will overheat and deadstick. Shoot that louver with metal primer, and then you can paint it to match your colors. You will never even notice the thing. Good luck with your maiden, let us know how it goes!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Lou...item3f37616589
Question? Are those holes in the bottom for cooling/exit air? You may want to look at installing one of these. I have them on my triplane and they work great. The louver creates low pressure that literally sucks the hot air out. You may be able to shop around and find them cheaper. One thing is for sure, you do not want that hot air to get stuck in there and swirl around. You will overheat and deadstick. Shoot that louver with metal primer, and then you can paint it to match your colors. You will never even notice the thing. Good luck with your maiden, let us know how it goes!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Lou...item3f37616589
01-01-2015, 06:58 PM
#809
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
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Thanks Vertical,
The holes are for a 2" inch speaker. So no trapped air or to much heat.
Also after all my work and even combining two 9volt batteries the machine gun firing is great on the ground, however, in the air even at throttle at lowest idle the sound can not be heard.
On on the ground you can hear it even at high throttle.
Sorry to say no sound for me ever again. At least not a gas airplane.
Thanks,
Michael
The holes are for a 2" inch speaker. So no trapped air or to much heat.
Also after all my work and even combining two 9volt batteries the machine gun firing is great on the ground, however, in the air even at throttle at lowest idle the sound can not be heard.
On on the ground you can hear it even at high throttle.
Sorry to say no sound for me ever again. At least not a gas airplane.
Thanks,
Michael
01-01-2015, 08:08 PM
#812
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
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The maiden flight was the best maiden I have ever had. The plane ran great a little rich and so little I did not need to land. The elevator and rudder were set up great. The ailerons were way to sensitive. I was able to fly a full flight and I did not even need to add trim!
The wind was straight down the runway when there was wind at all. The wind never exceed 5 miles an hour.
The balance was great. I added weight to the fire wall so that the plane was completely level at the 4" inch mark for the top leading edge.
The plane flew hands off!
On my first flight I performed a roll (way to fast) and a loop. The G-26 have plenty of power!
I had one of the best days! I was having so much fun I did not even get time to take a single photo.
Thanks for asking. On my build thread I'll finsh the posts about my painting the weathering and my maiden flight.
I'm going out again this Sunday and there I'll take photos and a video of the the sound of the guns.
Thanks,
Michael
The wind was straight down the runway when there was wind at all. The wind never exceed 5 miles an hour.
The balance was great. I added weight to the fire wall so that the plane was completely level at the 4" inch mark for the top leading edge.
The plane flew hands off!
On my first flight I performed a roll (way to fast) and a loop. The G-26 have plenty of power!
I had one of the best days! I was having so much fun I did not even get time to take a single photo.
Thanks for asking. On my build thread I'll finsh the posts about my painting the weathering and my maiden flight.
I'm going out again this Sunday and there I'll take photos and a video of the the sound of the guns.
Thanks,
Michael
01-01-2015, 09:50 PM
#816
Michael,
The weathering looks great. I really like it. I am definitely a fan of the used look when it comes to war birds. I like to make them look like they have seen action.
The problem with making sound work over distances is you need to move a lot of air. That is why I have a 4" speaker in my SE5A, but even that will not be big enough I'm afraid. You might try a larger speaker and a small amplifier that can boost the sound.
Andy
The weathering looks great. I really like it. I am definitely a fan of the used look when it comes to war birds. I like to make them look like they have seen action.
The problem with making sound work over distances is you need to move a lot of air. That is why I have a 4" speaker in my SE5A, but even that will not be big enough I'm afraid. You might try a larger speaker and a small amplifier that can boost the sound.
Andy
01-02-2015, 01:27 AM
#817
My Feedback: (68)
Rad,
You answered the question,why do you build,when you can buy an ARF.You took a box of lumber and created a beautiful model.you got all your incedense correct and balanced.It takes skill to accomplish what you achieved. And when you see your model not only fly,but fly's great,the sense of satisfaction you will never get with an ARF.Congrats!! jeffo
You answered the question,why do you build,when you can buy an ARF.You took a box of lumber and created a beautiful model.you got all your incedense correct and balanced.It takes skill to accomplish what you achieved. And when you see your model not only fly,but fly's great,the sense of satisfaction you will never get with an ARF.Congrats!! jeffo
01-02-2015, 09:46 AM
#819
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
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Michael,
The weathering looks great. I really like it. I am definitely a fan of the used look when it comes to war birds. I like to make them look like they have seen action.
The problem with making sound work over distances is you need to move a lot of air. That is why I have a 4" speaker in my SE5A, but even that will not be big enough I'm afraid. You might try a larger speaker and a small amplifier that can boost the sound.
Andy
The weathering looks great. I really like it. I am definitely a fan of the used look when it comes to war birds. I like to make them look like they have seen action.
The problem with making sound work over distances is you need to move a lot of air. That is why I have a 4" speaker in my SE5A, but even that will not be big enough I'm afraid. You might try a larger speaker and a small amplifier that can boost the sound.
Andy
I'm glad you like the weathering. I too am a fan of the used look. I was afraid that I had weathered to much. It really takes courage to weather a plane. I found myself on the fence more times than I can count. I'd say to myself, "It looks nice as is and I have spent so much time so far. I don't want to ruin what I have made so far". Then I'd look at it more and say to myself "it doesn't look real". I need to weather.
Weathering takes courage in more ways than just deciding to paint or not. I found it best to paint weathering in one day or mix and waste a lot of paint. Even painting in two days and placing the paint in the frigarator the paint was not the same. I spent 11.5 hours straight without sitting down working on this Pup. I use lots of Dixie cups to mix and I paint in layers. My paint is very thinned. This helps with spraying in layers. It drys fast and I can keep working without stopping. Also thinning a lot assists in painting, because when you spray down one line (with the airbrush) you can see where you start. From there you can adjust the placement and then add the several passes required to lay enough paint.
As for the sound you are correct. You need to move a ton of air so as to hear it above the engine. I'm not even sure a 4" inch speaker will achieve the sound I wanted. Yes adding an amp will also help again not sure it will be enough. Oh well I gave it a try! :-)
I'll make a short video on Sunday with the sound. I believe it is loud enough on the ground as the air and sound is bounced off the ground.
Thanks,
Michael
01-02-2015, 09:53 AM
#820
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 797
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Rad,
You answered the question,why do you build,when you can buy an ARF.You took a box of lumber and created a beautiful model.you got all your incedense correct and balanced.It takes skill to accomplish what you achieved. And when you see your model not only fly,but fly's great,the sense of satisfaction you will never get with an ARF.Congrats!! jeffo
You answered the question,why do you build,when you can buy an ARF.You took a box of lumber and created a beautiful model.you got all your incedense correct and balanced.It takes skill to accomplish what you achieved. And when you see your model not only fly,but fly's great,the sense of satisfaction you will never get with an ARF.Congrats!! jeffo
You are correct about ARF's. Thank you for you comment. I have taken ARF's and removed the MonoKote and fiberglassed the entire plane. Only to find out that the quality of wood, glue and craftsmanship was below good.
You are also so correct about the feeling of a plane's maiden that doesn't even require trim. It's had to describe. I can tell you it even took me by surprise! I found myself waiting to make fast adjustments. My eyes bulging and I was holding my breath!
It was great!
Thanks!
Michael
Last edited by MRadu; 01-02-2015 at 10:08 AM.
01-02-2015, 10:02 AM
#821
Rad,
You answered the question,why do you build,when you can buy an ARF.You took a box of lumber and created a beautiful model.you got all your incedense correct and balanced.It takes skill to accomplish what you achieved. And when you see your model not only fly,but fly's great,the sense of satisfaction you will never get with an ARF.Congrats!! jeffo
You answered the question,why do you build,when you can buy an ARF.You took a box of lumber and created a beautiful model.you got all your incedense correct and balanced.It takes skill to accomplish what you achieved. And when you see your model not only fly,but fly's great,the sense of satisfaction you will never get with an ARF.Congrats!! jeffo
Do not forget that the models you build, are generally of much, much higher quality, and are designed to be around a long time. I do not feel that way about the ARF. Just glorified toys in my mind. That is what makes Balsa USA so great.
Glad the maiden went so well. It is great when projects are a success after putting in so much hard work.
Another weathering technique other than airbrush shading that I really like, is to do a wash. This is very thin paint applied and wiped off. This allows it to get into the lows and create depth.
One trick I saw on a plastic model build, was to use slightly darker, or slightly lighter shades of the same color around panels and such. This really gives depth and accents the highs and lows.
The position of my exhaust on my DR1 is creating a natural oil stain to occur!
01-02-2015, 10:21 AM
#822
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
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Do not forget that the models you build, are generally of much, much higher quality, and are designed to be around a long time. I do not feel that way about the ARF. Just glorified toys in my mind. That is what makes Balsa USA so great.
Glad the maiden went so well. It is great when projects are a success after putting in so much hard work.
Another weathering technique other than airbrush shading that I really like, is to do a wash. This is very thin paint applied and wiped off. This allows it to get into the lows and create depth.
One trick I saw on a plastic model build, was to use slightly darker, or slightly lighter shades of the same color around panels and such. This really gives depth and accents the highs and lows.
The position of my exhaust on my DR1 is creating a natural oil stain to occur!
Glad the maiden went so well. It is great when projects are a success after putting in so much hard work.
Another weathering technique other than airbrush shading that I really like, is to do a wash. This is very thin paint applied and wiped off. This allows it to get into the lows and create depth.
One trick I saw on a plastic model build, was to use slightly darker, or slightly lighter shades of the same color around panels and such. This really gives depth and accents the highs and lows.
The position of my exhaust on my DR1 is creating a natural oil stain to occur!
Vertical,
That is really nice work. I have heard about this technique however I don't know how to do it. I've never tried it. Is it done with paper towels? What type of paint? Do you apply it with a brush? I'd really like to learn how to do this technique.
Are there some threads you can point out for the step by steps?
Thanks,
Michael
01-02-2015, 12:06 PM
#825
Michael,
I pretty much use latex exclusively. This type of paint is great for weathering, as it is easily removed with water/alcohol if you do not like a result. You can apply your wash with a brush, and then wipe it away with paper towels. It seems dark colors are used a lot for this. Black or red brown etc. Depending on what look you are trying to achieve. Burnishing and rubbing latex creates a great impression as well.
One thing about weathering, and scale modeling in general, the trick to it all is to get in your mind what something "should" look like. I find myself examining many objects in everyday life. How items wear, where the paint is rubbing off and why, colors fading, chipping etc. Railroad cars are a great example, as I would guess many of them have been around a long time.
Another one is to paint areas silver before putting your colors on. Then you can "rub through" to create the impression that paint has chipped away. It looks good because in all reality, it has chipped away!
I would like to show you something that was sort of a jackpot find for me. It is Iron paint. It has iron in it, and it actually rusts after it has been activated! This stuff works great. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271188623500?lpid=82
I pretty much use latex exclusively. This type of paint is great for weathering, as it is easily removed with water/alcohol if you do not like a result. You can apply your wash with a brush, and then wipe it away with paper towels. It seems dark colors are used a lot for this. Black or red brown etc. Depending on what look you are trying to achieve. Burnishing and rubbing latex creates a great impression as well.
One thing about weathering, and scale modeling in general, the trick to it all is to get in your mind what something "should" look like. I find myself examining many objects in everyday life. How items wear, where the paint is rubbing off and why, colors fading, chipping etc. Railroad cars are a great example, as I would guess many of them have been around a long time.
Another one is to paint areas silver before putting your colors on. Then you can "rub through" to create the impression that paint has chipped away. It looks good because in all reality, it has chipped away!
I would like to show you something that was sort of a jackpot find for me. It is Iron paint. It has iron in it, and it actually rusts after it has been activated! This stuff works great. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271188623500?lpid=82