foodstick

I have been trying to build the wires into the wooden hood cabanes when I am attaching the wood to the wire ... If you get it just right you can still slide the hood supports out of the hood groove blocks . And when they are pushed back in the holes are not to noticeable. At the top I have been trying to have a big enough opening to stuff the wire and plug up in the wing when you install the wing on the strut. However I think a small access door held closed by magnets is probably a better route.. I haven't done that yet,, but might on my next build.

I am really starting to like building nice access hatches that are held closed by magnets. You can put them in stock places so they look like scale detail.. and have your switches and air/fuel systems behind them.

Jim scott

I run mine down the inside of one of the center struts ,cover it with solartex then paint it.make sure the servo stays flat.its hard to tell its there

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

I ran my aileron leads in the middle strut, covered with shrink tubing and painted it. There is a small opening in the wing over the strut, once plugged in, it is tucked up into the wing out of sight. Here are a couple pictures





Rich

PT19

Want to say something about an earlier post about my mistake. I have decided to get a new kit from USA I'm still leaning to the Pup but would like to hear from someone about the other kits or just the Pup. Just the 1/4 scale ones at $300. Winter is coming soon and I have to have something to build.

rcmiket

I've built the BUSA N-28 nice build and flies well. I've got a 1/4 SEA5A in the box but can't get my bench cleared off to get it done.

Mike

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I built the N-28 and the Spad XIII. The Nieuport is easier to build and flys much better.

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

PT-19, I will speak about the BUSA WW I kits I have built. Lots will depend of your building skills. All the 1/4 scale WW I airplanes look better when cover with fabric material and Solartex is easy to apply, but there are other option. The BUSA Pup is a fairly easy kit to build, great flyer, powered with a 26cc or 30cc engine and can be scaled out to produce an excellent looking airplane you can be proud to own. The 1/4 scale Fokker D VII is more expensive and a little bit more demanding to build. But in my opinion it is the best RC airplane I have ever built and flown. Powered with Zenoah 38 it is an outstanding flyer and can be easily scale detailed and there are many color schemes of actual WW I airplanes. My latest BUSA WW I airplane is the SPAD XIII, it requires a little more advanced building skill level and when finished it is a beautiful airplane. Again powered with the Zenoah 38 it performs very well. I have only a few flights on it, so I am still trimming it out. All these kits are tried and proven and you will be happy with any you buy, just match your building skill level.

I have done a construction building threads on RCScaleBuilder.com of these BUSA kits, they are detailed and have many photos of the construction steps and modifications made during the build. RCScaleBuilder is primarily a builders site, folks who enjoy build what they fly. You get a tremendous sense of pride in producing these beautiful airplanes yourself. When you do a construction thread, you receive posts from modelers around the world with advice and help ideas. Check out this site, after a couple visits you will have to become a member for $20.00 a year. It is well worth it. Here is how you find my construction threads. RCScaleBuilder.com. in the forum section, Kits , in Balsa USA section, you will see the threads listed. I have the following threads: "Building BUSA Spads XIII" page 1, jwrich, "BUSA 1/4 scale Sopwith Pup build", page 4, jwrich, "Building the BUSA Fokker D VII", page 10, jwrich.

Here picture of my BALSA WW I planes;











Remember you can alway get help and advice here.

Fair Winds & Happy flyin'
Rich

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Are you talking about using the actual cabanes as the link between the servo and battery? Won't that create a huge loss of power from the battery? An interesting idea, but.....Hmmmm. I guess you could, but there are better ways of doing it. But if you try it, let us know. New ideas, new ways of thinking.

PT19

Thanks for reply. There has been a few WW1 planes at our field but they were all drab and colorless. After seeing your planes I can't wait to start on mine. I do like solartex . I'm sure I will be asking more question.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Drab colors on WWI planes? you must be looking at the allies planes. You should come to the Huns and join the circus!
But there were a few Pups out there that had some color. And Solartex is great stuff for a WWI plane. Enjoy the Pup.

Jim scott

my dr1 has been this way from the beginning about 7 years now with no problems,and any of balsa usa 1/3 or 1/4 you cant go wrong, ID put a little bit bigger motor than what they call for though.its better to be over powered and not need it than under powered and re kit it.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

Well after talking to the folks at Balsa USA, I have dropped the idea of a 1/3 scale DVII. ( for now) And am going to start on the 1/3 scale DRI. I have the KCS 62 cc gas motor to pull it around. And a Xoar/Axial 26 x 6 (or 8) should look good on the front. Lots of scale details to figure out. Like where the front cowl belongs, and how deep should it be to be scale. Thousands of little things to work out. I do know that I am not brave enough to cut it in half for transportation. I will leave that to the master builders. And of course the hardest part.....what color? Brown or green camo paint? And what pilots plane to try to honor? Questions questions questions.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

So its a typical scale project!

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

here is a pic of the 1/4 scale I built. Most likely I will do about the same. But I think a full cock pit will be added.

foodstick

Ok, I have to admit I laughed when I saw the reference to cutting the fuselage in half Jeff

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

As I said, you are braver than me. A question. How was the bottom wing attached on the full size DRI? The DVII had steal plates on the wings and bolted to the fuse. There are many pictures of them on DVII's. But I can not find pictures or drawings of the bottom wing on the DRI. I know its not a big deal on the Balsa USA bird, as it is not scale in many areas. But if I do not know how it was done on the full size, I can't fix it on the 1/3 scale. And the bottom wing is on the board, so it's something I would rather build into the wing rather than fix after the wing is done. Thanks for any help.

buzzard bait

Look up the thread by US185Damiani about the Golden Age Air Museum reproduction. They did a very authentic version and his posts have tons of photos. I saved some to help me with my own VK model. Basically, the bottom wing has a spar that runs full length and that attaches to the bottom of the fuse; the rest of the wing is built to fit against the outside of the fuse on each side. Maybe some of these will help...

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

Yup , that's how it was done. Big old box spar right through the bottom of the fuselage. There's a Le Rhone powered one at Kingsbury that I watched go together over a few years and I've seen it fly a few times.
Doc

buzzard bait

I bet it's quite a sight to see. What hp? The one at Golden Age has an 80 hp LeRhone, which of course is under sized, but it flies beautifully with it. Turns are unbelievably tight.

Those Fokker box spars are very interesting. I think something like them could be a good model construction method, where you're doing something scale and don't want the D tube look.

Jim

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

I cant say for sure what the HP of it is. I was there the night they got it started for the first time and it was too cool helping hold the airplane. Roger brought out beers and cigars for everyone (musta been 10 guys) afterward and it was a fine celebration. I was also around when the wings were being painted and helped turn the mid wing and was amazed how light it was.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I think I will try something along the lines of the GTM way of doing it. A box spar "like" build and two bolts, with a flap to cover it that seals the fuselage. That is my thought anyway. And I think I will reproduce 144/17. I like the look of the replaced aileron not matching. Gives me something to talk about at the field.

srecker

Hello all!

Please give me the next available number - I'd like to join the Brotherhood.

I have been building my Balsa USA Taube 40 for longer than I care to admit. It's done except for the covering. Well, plus one tiny detail. I'm adding the rigging, which is not a part of the kit. I haven't settled on the final placement of the posts - I am mounting their supports inside the wing, which I have to do before I cover it.

I'm also thinking seriously of making the rigging for the tail feathers functional! Obviously I can't do it for the wing (won't warp), but I don't see a good reason I can't build a pull-pull system for the rudder and elevator.

Or am I completely crazy? Frankly, I haven't yet searched the forum to see if it's been done, but how hard can it be, right?! ;-)

Scott Recker
"srecker"

jwrich

My Feedback: (17)

Welcome Scott to the Brotherhood, the Taube is a neat looking airplane, I have seen several at many Dawn Patrol events. They look great flying with a 4 stroke engine and sound real. The pull-pull system for the elevator & rudder is is easy to do and should work fine. For the wing rigging, using elastic line is easy to install to simulate the rigging of the support lines and wing warping. I used little hooks to connect the elastic rigging on my Sopwith Pup. One set of hooks {made from t-pins} are glued into the wing N-struts, the looped line is locked to those hooks permanently the other hooks are glued to the fuselage and center ca-bane struts. Once the wings are installed you just stretch the elastic line to the hooks at the fuselage & ca-banes. Simple details like this adds to the overall look of a somewhat scale model,
I hope this picture helps to explain the idea.

The Brotherhood ask that you post pictures of your BUSA airplanes for all to enjoy. Balsa USA kit are not scale models, but they do produce some excellent flyin' airplanes that can be detailed to give the appearance of much more. The forums on RCU, RCSB and RCG are great source of ideas to build an airplane you can be proud to fly at any event. If you have questions, Just ASK.

It would be helpful for me if all BUSA Brothers would post their BUSA Brotherhood number in their signature. If I have missed anyone please let me know.


BUSA brothers

#1 jwrich, Enid, OK, USA
#2 Jeffo New Baltimore, MI, USA
#3 ARUP KY USA
#4 RCKen Lawton, OK, USA (RCU Forum Manager/Admin)
#5 mattnew, Haverhill, MA, USA
#6 surmovik60 VA USA
#7 GerKonig, Levittown, PA, USA
#8 Granpooba, Queensbury, NY, USA
#9 radfordc, Lansing, KS, USA
#10 balsa brain, Jacksonville, FL, USA
#11 3136 Victoria Austrialia **
#12 wwoneguy, Beltsville, MD, USA
#13 vertical grimmace, Ft. Collins, CO, USA
#14 rcmiket, El Paso, TX, USA
#15 bpoates25, Riverview, FL, USA
#16 PiperDriver, Rolling Meadows, IL, USA
#17 68goat Alabaster, AL, USA
#18 jlsimon, Long Valley, NJ, USA
#19 pat s, Candor, NC, USA
#20 pending IN USA
#21 Steve Percifield, Noblesville, IN, USA (Sir Percy)
#22 opol, Two Harbors, MN, USA
#23 Zero, Houston, TX, USA
#24 tonyos, Madison Heights, VA, USA
#25 b206, Opdyke, IL, USA
#26 LonnieMcc, Carriere, MS, USA
#27 eindecer3, McMinnville, TN, USA
#28 flyer35, Ilion, NY, USA
#29 jeffEE, Farnington, NM, USA
#30 s3nfo, San Diego, CA, USA
#31 Kwikfli, Winfield, KS, USA
#32 JDHammer, Slippery Rock, PA, USA
#33 Ikruse, Lawton, OK, USA
#34 bobbailey, Chesapeake, VA, USA
#35 Vampire, Bath, PA, USA
#36 zemkes_wolfpack, Winamac, IN, USA
#37 triumphman49, Decatur, AL, USA
#38 SRQFlyer, Sarasota, FL, USA
#39 Daniel-EL, Maumee, OH, USA
#40 hairy46, Sinclair, WY' USA
#41 pettit, Durham, NC, USA
#42 Hrannar, Patrekfjordur, Iceland **
#43 lowbubba, Miamisburg, OH, USA
#45 FokkerD7, Cable, OH, USA
#44 FireBee, Chesapeake, VA, USA
#46 iampilot2, Middletown, OH, USA
#47 Wagon1,Penscola, FL, USA
#48 darren 4, Eau Claire, WI, USA
#49 Luxuswaffe, Hialeah, FL, USA
#50 dryverman, West Rutland, VT, USA
#51 otterrc FL USA
#52 cooper998, Newark, DE, USA
#53 lazyace, Buffalo, NY, USA
#54 wings2an3 Monroe, NY, USA
#55 The Pamster, Dallas, TX, USA
#56 lucasar15, Pottsville, PA, USA
#57 AMA74894, Spicer, MN, USA (Moderator Jim Buzzeo)
#58 squidman, Waco, TX, USA
#59 M_Callahan, South Lebanon, OH, USA
#60 Karp050555, Philadelphia, PA, USA
#61 optech, San Diego, CA, USA
#62 ashby NSW Australia **
#63 R/C Art, Shelbyville, IN, USA
#64 on_your_six MD USA
#65 Highflyer2, Alpharetta, GA, USA
#66 dddaviddean NJ USA
#67 Quagmire, Costa Mesa, CA, USA
#68 pending CA USA
#69 ratshooter, Burleson, TX, USA
#70 TXAG96, Augusta, MI, USA
#71 R/C Ray, Valley Cottage, NY, USA
#72 feep, Pelham, NH, USA
#73 sdcranford, Willard, MO, USA
#74 buzzard bait, Ithaca, NY, USA
#75 chadasmus, Freedom WI, USA, (BUSA Team Pilot, Builder and Designer)
#76 fokv25, Westfield, IN, USA
#77 Dynamic, Stratford, WI, USA
#78 WinterHawke, Waukesha, WI, USA
#79 t6racer NSW Australia **
#80 NM2K, Ringgold, GA, USA
#81 rcjunky67, Belleview, FL, USA
#82 AndyF Ft. Wayne, IN, USA
#83 freefall2907, Ottumwa, IA, USA
#84 a65l, Virginia Beach, VA, USA
#85 Grimracer, Urbana, IL, USA
#86 Corsair2013, Granytsville, UT, USA
#87 Chevelle NY USA
#88 eagledancer, Orlando, FL, USA
#89 Leroy Gardner ID USA
#90 ANZAC Australia **
#91 Spadsriver09, Southbend, IN, USA
#92 PSB, Malven, OH, USA
#93 bradpaul, Apopka, FL, USA
#94 MRadu, Los Gatos, CA, USA
#95 HorsePowerAviation, Cincinnati, OH, USA
#96 Shoestring, Granite, MN, USA
#97 David Gladwin, CookhamBerkshire, United Kingdom **
#98 Rich6170, Springfield, OH, USA
#99 Wildbills21, Menominee, MI, USA, (Team BUSA, pilot, builder,& chief mechanic)
#100 Rickj, Akron, OH, USA
#101 Geezeraviation, Houston, TX, USA
#102 Flyboy077, Uniontown, OH, USA
#103 Shelstrm, Lancaster, WI, USA
#104 Drude, North Port, FL, USA
#105 bschatz, West Hills, CA, USA
#106 RCDuffer, Valley Center, CA, USA
#107 capnpaul, Orillia, ON, Canada **
#108 p38nut, Indianapolis, IN, USA
#109 yoda64, Bloxon, VA, USA
#110 Jaybird, Hallowell, ME, USA
#111 mbnt, IL, USA
#112 Foodstick (Lance), Ankeny, IA, USA
#113 adec, Perthaustralra, Australia **
#114 Navy, Orange Park, FL, USA
#115 RD Jeff, Anchorage, AK, USA
#116 Mistral 12, Granbury, TX, USA
#117 JKEpps, Greenbelt, MD, USA
#118 FlyerInOKC, Okla, City, OK, USA
#119 PT19, Buna, TX, USA
#120 Jim Scott, ?
#121 Srecker, Erie, PA, USA

Fair winds and happy flyin'
Rich

AMA Leader Member
BALSA USA Brotherhood #1

Keep'em Flyin
Rich

foodstick

Heres my latest project

foodstick

Heres my latest project



oops, double post,so I will add a different pic.