Balsa USA Brotherhood
#1827
My Feedback: (5)
How bad do you want it? I guess if I needed the plans and that's all it cost to get a new set, I would consider myself fortunate. But then I'm a glass half full kind of guy. Good luck in your search. The DVII build goes on. It needs a lot of work, Rib stitches, paint, guns, Etc. but so far it looks pretty good. Just my opinion of course.
Last edited by jeffEE; 02-16-2018 at 10:50 AM.
#1831
Calle has been doing my graphics lately. As you say, the quality, turn around, and pricing are hard to beat.
#1832
Just got finished with a new dummy engine and shock absorbing gear. Dummy parts are 3D printed in SLS Nylon from modified files from Nigel at Flightline graphics. Used the kit cylinders and exhaust (since I made my exhaust functional) and added front and rear cast housings, rocker boxes, rocker arms, cooling pipe and intake manifolds. Still have to add the radiator fill pipe.
Shock absorbing gear is from Scott at www.Planes-mart.com . Vast improvement over the kit gear.
Covered in Solartex, Graphics by Callie - jasta 18. Proctor wheels. Iflytailies cockpit instruments, fuel gauge, airspeed indicator (anemometer), ammo box and cartridge chutes.
Zenoah G-38 powered at 24lbs.
A true joy to fly.
Shock absorbing gear is from Scott at www.Planes-mart.com . Vast improvement over the kit gear.
Covered in Solartex, Graphics by Callie - jasta 18. Proctor wheels. Iflytailies cockpit instruments, fuel gauge, airspeed indicator (anemometer), ammo box and cartridge chutes.
Zenoah G-38 powered at 24lbs.
A true joy to fly.
Last edited by RobMason; 02-27-2018 at 10:00 AM.
#1834
Fixed the link
Red is plain red Solartex, White is white Solartex painted with Lustrekote white primer. Had a mishap when trying to originally paint the fuse chevron - some staining left after removing the black paint. Paint on the struts, cowl, and wheels is Testors Flat Red enamel - good match and high coverage. Stab was covered in white Solartex, masked and painted with Testors Flat Black. All other odds and ends is Tamiya, Testors or Testors Acryl enamels. All overshot with a fairly thin layer of Crystal Clear Lustrekote to seal it and give it some shine (original Jasta 18 planes reported to be pretty high gloss).
Red is plain red Solartex, White is white Solartex painted with Lustrekote white primer. Had a mishap when trying to originally paint the fuse chevron - some staining left after removing the black paint. Paint on the struts, cowl, and wheels is Testors Flat Red enamel - good match and high coverage. Stab was covered in white Solartex, masked and painted with Testors Flat Black. All other odds and ends is Tamiya, Testors or Testors Acryl enamels. All overshot with a fairly thin layer of Crystal Clear Lustrekote to seal it and give it some shine (original Jasta 18 planes reported to be pretty high gloss).
#1835
My Feedback: (6)
Link works now. Thank you! I have a VK Models DR.1 to paint and I was using the artifact found on this web page as a guide.
http://ww1.canada.com/faces-of-war/the-red-baron-plane
http://ww1.canada.com/faces-of-war/the-red-baron-plane
#1836
My Feedback: (5)
Well... It's done. Of course it really is never DONE done. It is just as much as I am going to put into it until after first flight. But there is another 8 inches of snow coming down right now, so it may be a few months. Not bad for about 4 months of a build. I did not add a lot of the scale upgrades that I like to do, but I really wanted an everyday flyer. And lots of scale detail needs lots of up keep. So it is what it is. I think that the first flight should be a rather dull event. This is my 5th DVII and they all flew well. So no worries.
#1838
Jeff - enjoy it. Mine has replaced my Cub as an everyday flier. Maintenance is pretty minimal so far - after the initial sorting out. Have 50 or so flights on it and I am not gentle with it. Lots of aerobatics, but speed is kept down since I have the G-38 and it just doesn't go very fast.
Rob
Rob
#1839
Jeff - you stated this build is your 5th DVII. Do you still have the others or did the Red Barron intervene? : )
Nice build, I wish I had the talent you guys have. I do ok on my sport models but I just don't think I'd do very good on a scale project. Good luck and enjoy your bird.
Jay
Nice build, I wish I had the talent you guys have. I do ok on my sport models but I just don't think I'd do very good on a scale project. Good luck and enjoy your bird.
Jay
#1841
If you run into problems, the forums are frequented with experienced builders that are willing to offer assistance.
#1842
Agreed, no rocket science involved. Not much more than a regular build, especially with a BUSA kit. And the good thing (or bad depending on how you look at it), is you can do it in stages with a little planning, though this means you are never truely "done". I bought mine built but with issues. Fixed the control run and structure issues and have been adding - paint, markings, cockpit, pilot, guns, ammo box and chutes, anemometer, fuel gauge, dummy engine, "fokker" nuts, scale exhaust, shock absorbing gear, scale wheels, proper tail bracing, and scale prop. Still have cockpit coaming lacing, radiator, radiator fill pipe, access panels for cowl and fuse, correct side panel louvers, and tail skid to do. After that, I will probably think of something else lol. All of this has been done while flying the plane as "add ons" to the basic build over the past 6 months or so.
If you have build a Kadet, Cub, or any other stick built plane, there is nothing different than with the Fokker (or other BUSA planes). I actually got back into Scale by ARF bashing. Stripping, re-covering, and adding scale details. Have done a Dual Ace, Cub, Sopwith Camel, Hellcat, P-47, Tiger Moth, and Dr.1. Started with adding cockpit, paint and engine detail, all the way to sliding canopies, scale exhaust, panel lines, weathering, changing landing gear details, and structural and outline changes. Again, all after the basic build. Sometimes careful planning is needed to add scale bits on after the basic build, sometimes not. It would be much easier, especially from a access standpoint, to add bits as you build though.
Most of the additional parts needed to make a standard build straight from a kit into a very nice scale model are available aftermarket. No longer do you have to build the "fiddly bits". Most things I have added are available in part or complete from a vendor. These might be in kit form, or need building, painting, and additional hardware, but much of the hard part is done. I think of them as kits within a kit - a dummy engine or cockpit certainly is this way, and add to the enjoyment of building.
Vendors I have used - Iflytailies - cockpit instruments and fittings, ammo box, fuel gauge. Callie Graphics - is there anyone else for markings. Scott Ware (planes-mart.com) - landing gear, Proctor Enterprises - wheels, Flightlinegraphics - dummy engine 3D print files I modified. Williams Bros. - guns. Sullivan, DuBro, K&S, Lowe's and Amazon for hardware.
Scale building is fun and not much different than any other build. You can add as little or as much as you want, go completely crazy with fabricating - or buy aftermarket, "fantasy" or custom paint schemes - or true to scale, it doesn't matter. It is whatever floats your boat. There is no difference in building a Great Planes Aeromaster and a Scale biplane.
If you have a Cub, add a cockpit, pilot, and scale engine. If it is fabric covered, rib stitching and tape (very easy to do if not painted or clear coated - just add on). Scale working gear or just add fake bungee covers. Pitot tube and air lines on the jury strut. Little things like that are easy to do and add a great deal of presence to a plane. A great way to get your feet wet in scale.
If you have build a Kadet, Cub, or any other stick built plane, there is nothing different than with the Fokker (or other BUSA planes). I actually got back into Scale by ARF bashing. Stripping, re-covering, and adding scale details. Have done a Dual Ace, Cub, Sopwith Camel, Hellcat, P-47, Tiger Moth, and Dr.1. Started with adding cockpit, paint and engine detail, all the way to sliding canopies, scale exhaust, panel lines, weathering, changing landing gear details, and structural and outline changes. Again, all after the basic build. Sometimes careful planning is needed to add scale bits on after the basic build, sometimes not. It would be much easier, especially from a access standpoint, to add bits as you build though.
Most of the additional parts needed to make a standard build straight from a kit into a very nice scale model are available aftermarket. No longer do you have to build the "fiddly bits". Most things I have added are available in part or complete from a vendor. These might be in kit form, or need building, painting, and additional hardware, but much of the hard part is done. I think of them as kits within a kit - a dummy engine or cockpit certainly is this way, and add to the enjoyment of building.
Vendors I have used - Iflytailies - cockpit instruments and fittings, ammo box, fuel gauge. Callie Graphics - is there anyone else for markings. Scott Ware (planes-mart.com) - landing gear, Proctor Enterprises - wheels, Flightlinegraphics - dummy engine 3D print files I modified. Williams Bros. - guns. Sullivan, DuBro, K&S, Lowe's and Amazon for hardware.
Scale building is fun and not much different than any other build. You can add as little or as much as you want, go completely crazy with fabricating - or buy aftermarket, "fantasy" or custom paint schemes - or true to scale, it doesn't matter. It is whatever floats your boat. There is no difference in building a Great Planes Aeromaster and a Scale biplane.
If you have a Cub, add a cockpit, pilot, and scale engine. If it is fabric covered, rib stitching and tape (very easy to do if not painted or clear coated - just add on). Scale working gear or just add fake bungee covers. Pitot tube and air lines on the jury strut. Little things like that are easy to do and add a great deal of presence to a plane. A great way to get your feet wet in scale.
#1844
My Feedback: (5)
My first 4 DVIIs are no longer with me. Two I sold, one (my first) had a mid air. And the one before this one hit the last row of corn on landing deadstick. Lots of parts flying all over the place on that one. LOL. But it was 7 years old, and I flew it everywhere so I got my moneys worth out of it. I even sold it once and bought it back. I think the new one looks pretty good next to my 1/3 scale DRI. A thought for all flyers using the Proctor 1/4 scale WWI wheels. I really liked how mine looked on the airplane, but if there was any sideways force put to them on landing, they bent the metal disc a lot. I found that when I added another small bolt in between each bolt that is already on the wheel it held up much better. Just my 2 cents worth.
#1845
Thanks for all your input guys. Sorry I've been away from this forum so long. I've been working on my birds getting them ready for flying season. Just finishing up my stick 40 plus kit and need to break in a new engine for it. It should be a blast to fly. Hopefully my next build will be my 1/4 scale Balsa USA Cub. I'll try some of your suggestions to see how it comes out. I do intend to try the stiching on fabric to see how that comes out. Should be fun.
Jay
Jay
#1846
My Feedback: (17)
Hey Brothers is there any new Balsa USA planes ready for the coming flying season? I spent some time checking out my Fokker D VII, Sopwith Pup, and the Spad XIII getting them ready for another season. I plan to have the 1/3 scale Pup flying by the end of the summer, just in time for the Dawn Patrol at Dayton, OH.
Check in with your fleet of airplanes.
Fair Winds & Happy Flyin'
Rich
Balsa USA Brotherhood #1
Check in with your fleet of airplanes.
Fair Winds & Happy Flyin'
Rich
Balsa USA Brotherhood #1
Last edited by jwrich; 04-02-2018 at 02:51 PM.
#1847
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
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Covered Dr1
hey Rich, I’m working on my 1/4 dr1 slowly. Life getting in the way lately. I have it covered with linen colored solartex, still need to install electronics and engine. I will post pics when I get a chance. Best regards, Barry
busab150
busab150
#1848
My Feedback: (5)
I hated to part with my trusty Saito 2.20 nitro engine, but I also hated the thought of messing up the paint on the new DVII. New gas 4 strokes are around $700. Can't win for loosin'. Or can you... I ordered a gas conversion kit from CH Ignitions. That way I get to keep the great four stroke sound and get better gas mileage. And at less that $200 its almost cheap. The front of the DVII is perfect for a gas engine, lots of cooling airflow, and I have it baffled already. The web site says a loss of 10% in power will happen. I never flew at more that Half throttle anyway, so it should be fine. Lets see some of the other builds that are going to take to the sky this spring. I wish I knew when we were going to get to fly here, its snowing right now, and its going to add 4 to 6 inches. I don't think its ever going to be warm again.
#1850
I just keep adding to my D.VII while flying it since we don't really have a building season...
This year added working landing gear, working scale exhaust and 3D printed dummy engine so far. On the plate is top decking aluminum panels, correct side panels for my actual scheme, and correct cockpit coaming. It never is "finished" lol.
Rob
This year added working landing gear, working scale exhaust and 3D printed dummy engine so far. On the plate is top decking aluminum panels, correct side panels for my actual scheme, and correct cockpit coaming. It never is "finished" lol.
Rob