G&L 1/5 DHC chipmunk - diary of a build.
#351
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Main gear set.
Went flying this morning to get some more fuel threw the DLE55, got about 3.5 hr and two gal threw her so far. This engine runs great and has been flawless for 20 flights.
I have been working on the main gear. I cut the struts down and removed the wood dowel so my struts are not to stiff.
I like it when the plane is sitting on its wheels and I can grab a wing tip and rock the plane back and forth. The shock absorption should not be so stiff that the struts won't compress unless it is hit hard.
Landings on this plane will be soft, plus I will be flying off grass and asphalt.
The strut fairing is light and strong, even better it is removable. The top and bottom are faced with 1/8" micro-ply
The two tabs at the bottom of the strut will hold the faring inline, so no need for any screws and fasteners.
For setting up my gear I have a method that has worked good for me. I use this on both fixed and retractable gear.
First I level the wing from LE to TE. Then I use a steel rod the diameter of my axles to align the axles. In this case a 1/4" steel dowel from HD.
When I set up my gear I do not want toe in and anything like that, dead on is the way I roll
using a square I set the axles off the LE, I want them centered over the LE for this plane (and most tail draggers).
This is how I set the gear so I can mark the blocks. I will be gluing them in, that will be the next steep. Then I will install the covers and trim the fairings to fit.
TB
Went flying this morning to get some more fuel threw the DLE55, got about 3.5 hr and two gal threw her so far. This engine runs great and has been flawless for 20 flights.
I have been working on the main gear. I cut the struts down and removed the wood dowel so my struts are not to stiff.
I like it when the plane is sitting on its wheels and I can grab a wing tip and rock the plane back and forth. The shock absorption should not be so stiff that the struts won't compress unless it is hit hard.
Landings on this plane will be soft, plus I will be flying off grass and asphalt.
The strut fairing is light and strong, even better it is removable. The top and bottom are faced with 1/8" micro-ply
The two tabs at the bottom of the strut will hold the faring inline, so no need for any screws and fasteners.
For setting up my gear I have a method that has worked good for me. I use this on both fixed and retractable gear.
First I level the wing from LE to TE. Then I use a steel rod the diameter of my axles to align the axles. In this case a 1/4" steel dowel from HD.
When I set up my gear I do not want toe in and anything like that, dead on is the way I roll
using a square I set the axles off the LE, I want them centered over the LE for this plane (and most tail draggers).
This is how I set the gear so I can mark the blocks. I will be gluing them in, that will be the next steep. Then I will install the covers and trim the fairings to fit.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-19-2014 at 12:47 PM.
#352
Banned
Just thinking
Tony,
Thanks for the fix. I have nice pics as always.
F Y I _ _ _ You may already know this _ _ _
The original propellers were designed by Dehavilland and made of wood.
Later some metal props were used.
The original props had a diameter of 2m ( 78.84 inches ). Scaling 1/5 would be 15.77 inches.
You may think of using a 16" prop with wide blades considering the engine you are using.
This would allow a scale dimensioned landing gear and a normal ground attitude of approximately 12 degrees as the full size thus giving a 14 degrees angle of attack ( just below full stall ) on a three point landing .
Just doing some thinking _ _ _ please do not mind me.
Zor
Thanks for the fix. I have nice pics as always.
F Y I _ _ _ You may already know this _ _ _
The original propellers were designed by Dehavilland and made of wood.
Later some metal props were used.
The original props had a diameter of 2m ( 78.84 inches ). Scaling 1/5 would be 15.77 inches.
You may think of using a 16" prop with wide blades considering the engine you are using.
This would allow a scale dimensioned landing gear and a normal ground attitude of approximately 12 degrees as the full size thus giving a 14 degrees angle of attack ( just below full stall ) on a three point landing .
Just doing some thinking _ _ _ please do not mind me.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 07-19-2014 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Corrected landng to landing
#354
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
Ken
#357
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Main gear mounts.
I am gluing the gear mounts in, the rails where set yesterday and I glassed the ceiling of the gear bays with some scrap carbon fiber.
I used 6/32 T-bolts for the gear mount plats, they wont pull out like screws will.
Gear mounting plates are glued in and drying.
I have started working on the landing light. I keep all scraps from layups, they come in handy at times.
TB
I am gluing the gear mounts in, the rails where set yesterday and I glassed the ceiling of the gear bays with some scrap carbon fiber.
I used 6/32 T-bolts for the gear mount plats, they wont pull out like screws will.
Gear mounting plates are glued in and drying.
I have started working on the landing light. I keep all scraps from layups, they come in handy at times.
TB
#360
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Landing light.
So the landing light was made from scraps leftover from the strut fairings.
I added a balsa ring to the front that is tight and will house the light. I soaked the balsa with thin CA to strengthen it.
A little fine tuning and the shape is starting to come together.
Next I applied easy sand to the outside of the housing. This will also help to make it strong.
Sanding and trimming to get it right.
The leans goes in threw the front and the weir will go under the hatch and into the flap servo bay. There will be a connection under the gear hatch for installation.
I still need to trim it back and clean it up but pretty much the strut fairings are done.
TB
So the landing light was made from scraps leftover from the strut fairings.
I added a balsa ring to the front that is tight and will house the light. I soaked the balsa with thin CA to strengthen it.
A little fine tuning and the shape is starting to come together.
Next I applied easy sand to the outside of the housing. This will also help to make it strong.
Sanding and trimming to get it right.
The leans goes in threw the front and the weir will go under the hatch and into the flap servo bay. There will be a connection under the gear hatch for installation.
I still need to trim it back and clean it up but pretty much the strut fairings are done.
TB
#361
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Wing bolts.
So both strut faring's are done, magnets installed and the gear is done for now.
Wing bolts are drilled in, two T-nuts and allen head bolts hold the wing in, I ding the T-nut so there is resistance on the bolt. I have never had one come loos, been doing it this way from day one.
Now that the wing is mounted I can finish the setup, flaps and ailerons.
The front will get some work to fill the belly out, also I can do the rear section too.
On her feet, looks good to be upright and standing.
Moving along.
TB
So both strut faring's are done, magnets installed and the gear is done for now.
Wing bolts are drilled in, two T-nuts and allen head bolts hold the wing in, I ding the T-nut so there is resistance on the bolt. I have never had one come loos, been doing it this way from day one.
Now that the wing is mounted I can finish the setup, flaps and ailerons.
The front will get some work to fill the belly out, also I can do the rear section too.
On her feet, looks good to be upright and standing.
Moving along.
TB
#364
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Fine tuning the wing.
I spent the morning fine tuning the flaps and ailerons. I need to make sure everything is working good and nothing is binding.
Plus I need that pencil line between the control surfaces and the inboard wing and wing tips
Everything is looking good. I will hook up the servos and linkages, then give it all a good sanding. I want to glass the wing ASAP, it will protect it.
I will also add the TE and get that all ready for glassing.
I leveled the plane and checked my work.
Plane is level.
Wing is at 0.
Gear axles are right under the LE. This is in preparation to install the stab.
Flaps look good when down
TB
I spent the morning fine tuning the flaps and ailerons. I need to make sure everything is working good and nothing is binding.
Plus I need that pencil line between the control surfaces and the inboard wing and wing tips
Everything is looking good. I will hook up the servos and linkages, then give it all a good sanding. I want to glass the wing ASAP, it will protect it.
I will also add the TE and get that all ready for glassing.
I leveled the plane and checked my work.
Plane is level.
Wing is at 0.
Gear axles are right under the LE. This is in preparation to install the stab.
Flaps look good when down
TB
#368
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
On the bench for today will be to get the wing ready for glassing. I will sand and fill if needed, then glass the control surfaces and the wing. I want the wing glassed before I work on the belly. Once I have the wing glassed it is easier to work on.
Both flaps and ailerons are in and hooked up, hatches are done and just some fine tuning is left. Pushing to get the wing done today.
TB
Both flaps and ailerons are in and hooked up, hatches are done and just some fine tuning is left. Pushing to get the wing done today.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 07-23-2014 at 03:26 AM.
#369
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Ailerons and flaps.
On the servos I use an aluminum angle. I drill and tap the aluminum and thread it to 2/56.
4-2/56 bolts and nylon nuts secure the servo to the mount.
The servo arm is drilled and taped threaded with 2/56, 2/56x 4-40 ball lings and a 4-40 all thread for ailerons.
The flaps get 2/56 ball links on a 2/56 all thread with a carbon fiber sleeve for detailing.
All servos are held in with 4- #2x 9/16" servo mounting screws.
Glade that's all done.
Post video
http://youtu.be/0v0pJgNZ26Y
TB
On the servos I use an aluminum angle. I drill and tap the aluminum and thread it to 2/56.
4-2/56 bolts and nylon nuts secure the servo to the mount.
The servo arm is drilled and taped threaded with 2/56, 2/56x 4-40 ball lings and a 4-40 all thread for ailerons.
The flaps get 2/56 ball links on a 2/56 all thread with a carbon fiber sleeve for detailing.
All servos are held in with 4- #2x 9/16" servo mounting screws.
Glade that's all done.
Post video
http://youtu.be/0v0pJgNZ26Y
TB
#370
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
The wing is done and ready to sand and glass. I also messed with my Receivers and telemetry. This is all new so a lot of time was spent on YouTube. I got my duel receivers set up. The first is set to mode "A" ch 1-8 and the second receiver was set to mode "D" ch 9-15 leaving ch 8 (16) open for my telemetry. That was a big step so next will be setting up the sensors.
Tomorrow I will continue to work on the wing, sanding and glassing.
TB
Tomorrow I will continue to work on the wing, sanding and glassing.
TB
#375
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Got some good work in on the grunt work, ailerons and flaps are all glassed and sanded. They are ready for primer. Stab is sanded and ready to glue to the fuselage. Elevators are joined and sanded. The wing is glassed and needs sanding, plus I need to do the saddle and the belly once I clean the wing up, more grunt work to fallow.
TB
TB