Leroy Gardner

Now there's an interesting adaption, I was thinking they were a screw rotary shaft. So when the shaft turns in the adapter shaft the full deflection is based on the bend at the end, now what happens at the assembly when the action of the flap leading edge moves away from center as they do on a cub hinge setup. There is some setups this may not work on unless I'm looking at it all wrong.

Leroy

acerc

Nope, your not looking at it wrong. If the surface being deflected moves away from the shaft it changes the angle. The 2nd gen is suppose to move on a shaft and should accommodate that type of hinged surface, but I have not used them and can't say for sure.

John_M_

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Melchizedek

I am using the rotary drive gen 2 on my spacewalker on the ailerons.
The bend of the flipper arm has to stay on the hinge line. Otherwise it will bind.
I cant see how it would work on a moving flap (sliding out or away).

Kevin

Leroy Gardner

I will post a good picture of what I want to do, I will have about 5/8" of mounting area and will have to incorporate push rod mount and hinge into one unit, I might be able to have a separation of 7/8" between the two. I haven't laid it out yet but will before I do anything. Scale has it's challenges just trying to keep it that way. The real plane uses a bell crank for it's operation.

Leroy

John_M_

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acerc

Here is a shot of a cub hinge I did for a fellow club member I built for. Maybe it will give you some ideas.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Leroy, that hinge is a perfect candidate for G-10.



It is easier to work with then aluminumn or other metals. It cuts easy and you can layer it up to get thiker pieces, CA works great for laminating. You can get it on amazon or other sites.

TB

box car

This is also a good place to get G7,9,10, or 11
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-pl...sheets/=v19q70

box car

another nice thing about them is order today have it the next

Leroy Gardner

Robert that is a nice shot of a yoke/clevis on the end of the tube, I have been leaning toward getting those because of the pin attachment and scale look. I can see where the push rod attachment can be cut into the hinge mount also, that whole setup is what made wonder how much servo torque would be needed to handle the forces against the flap. I was thinking along the lines of a spruce spar in the flap because of the 1/2" wide cutout in the leading edge where this all goes. Things to kick around here.

As far as G 10 goes it's a foreign product to me. I have good luck filing and soldering brass and for this one I think I will stick with it. I'm learning some new things on this build and yes I guess I have the bug.

I appreciate all the ideas and help, it does stimulate the mind, thank you.

Leroy

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Leroy I am old school to with the soldering, but get some G-10 and try it you will be amazed at what you can do with the stuff.
The one thing I found was for ailerons horns to keep the ware on the hole down was to put a brass bushing in the hole, so far no more slop in about a 100 flights

Cheers bob T

PS well the way my repair projects are going I may get to start my cub bash this coming spring so may be asking for some help.

John_M_

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John_M_

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TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Leroy, I have a question for you. Why did you chose to build a cub?

TB

Leroy Gardner

Man there are so many ways to do so many things, enough to make your head spin. At some point I'm going to get some of that G-10 just to see what the big deal is or find out what I have been missing. I have so many years in fabrication I can't break away from it, it's like building a lot of the same stuff with different products and methods and a hell of a lot smaller. I have bought brass tubing and different plate sizes to make some of this stuff, like the stuff you can't buy. It does have a learning curve, that's for sure. I'm not concerned about the weight of brass, I'm not adding that much and it's about all there is that you can shape and solder into the forms I need.

"Ahhhh Yes", why did I choose this cub, well I spent part of this past summer at 4 different airports at EAA fly- ins and saw some beauties. Totally unlike a common J3 and I said I'm going to build one and it will be scale, so here I am, found the right kit to do it with and I like a challenge which it is. I pick hell out of my brain, glad there's something in it.

Leroy

Leroy Gardner

I find myself a bit disorganized on the build jumping from one thing to another while figuring things out on the way, so far I haven't screwed anything up. I really do think things through and there are a lot of them plus some Ideas spawned by some of you.

Doing the forward support wires had to be worked out and I came up with what looks to be a good way, I had to straighten the wires that were in the kit and rebend them to fit my make up, the 5 ply support had to be done so as not interfere with the slid in tray up there, it will have a support to the back of fire wall, looks to be plenty strong enough for those rough landings. I can now make the two trays that go under there. I also started the instrument panel, I got as far as the engine tack and there is a lot more to do.

Leroy

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Leroy, yes the full scale super cub is impressive.

I too am planning on putting all my gadgets in my instrument panel, tack, kcriket, and a few LEDs. It won't be scale but it will be we lit up.

TB

John_M_

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rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Guys don't install those digital RPM thingys to solid I have one in my weeks bipe and it is on double sided foam tape, went bad after about ten flights and the canopy is not removable. Baaaaa

Cheers bob T

Leroy Gardner

Thanks for the heads up Bob, Mine will be allowed to float on a foam pad lightly compressed and not allowed to touch the frame work. I isolate everything electronic, vibration raises cane with it no matter where it is.

Leroy Gardner

John M we think along some of the same lines on some of this, a plane with this wing span that's on the light side doesn't fly that well in the wind and can be a hand full landing with any cross wind. I have taken all that into account and with a 30 cc engine what ever added weight I add will be more helpful than a hindrance. Just my way of thinking

I will be able to get the choke on the instrument panel, that's where the switches will be, you have to use some common sense getting in the cabin with the engine running, it's best to close it up after the engine pops then start it, I will have radio kill also.

Leroy

VincentJ

I'm sure you considered the possibility of putting floats on your Cub Leroy. In case you haven't, some simple blocks added may prove useful when and if you decide to go with floats at a later date.

thailazer

Leroy... I used to fly at the Northwest Scale Masters events held at Farragut Park. Are those events still going on up there? Your J3 would look great there.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Leroy Mine was on 1/8 foam and still went south when if I do it again it will be on at least !/4 foam

Cheers bob T