Sig Morrisey Bravo Build
11-28-2014, 08:49 AM
#27
Thread Starter
Here are some photos showing how I clamped all of the ribs together trying to get uniformity while sanding. Once that was completed, it was time to set the ribs in place on the spruce spar. It is important to get the ribs plumb and straight while the glue sets up. Speaking of glue, my glue of choice for most of the assembly is Titebond II. All of the ribs are clamped into position with a steel block that has been with me for years...
11-29-2014, 03:54 AM
#28
Thread Starter
Here's what the wing looks like at this point. Top and bottom Spruce spars have all been glued into place. Notice I installed a cardboard tube which will facilitate the servo wires to run through. The initial openings in the wing were 5/8", but I enlarged them to 3/4" to accommodate a model rocket tube which I substituted for the rolled paper as the plans called for. These rocket tubes come in a variety of diameters and lend themselves well for this purpose. In addition, they also add strength to the wing that rolled paper will not do.
Kevin, I agree, so far I am pleased with the quality of the balsa in this kit. Time has not twisted or warped it as far as I can tell...
Kevin, I agree, so far I am pleased with the quality of the balsa in this kit. Time has not twisted or warped it as far as I can tell...
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-29-2014 at 04:00 AM.
11-29-2014, 04:29 AM
#29
Looking good, VJ
I haven't had trouble with the wood in old Sig kits. I'm building a vintage kit now, that has some major problems with the wood sheets. When truing the edges, I've lost up to 1/2", of the 3" width, due to warpage.
I haven't had trouble with the wood in old Sig kits. I'm building a vintage kit now, that has some major problems with the wood sheets. When truing the edges, I've lost up to 1/2", of the 3" width, due to warpage.
11-29-2014, 05:09 AM
#30
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What did the steel block say to the wing rib ?
"We are Borg ! You will be assimilated ! Resistance is futile ! "
Overwhelming force administered with a velvet hand is always good policy.
Kevin
"We are Borg ! You will be assimilated ! Resistance is futile ! "
Overwhelming force administered with a velvet hand is always good policy.
Kevin
11-29-2014, 05:17 AM
#31
Thread Starter
Which vintage kit are you building now Tom, the Ryan? When I built my first vintage kit, I thought that I wouldn't be able to use any of the wood in the kit. I thought I was paying all that money just for the plans. Turned out that I used every piece of wood! I would love a link to your build thread if you have one, I always enjoy your builds...they always turn out beautifully.
Love your sense of humor Kevin, this steel block has been with me awhile, someone left it behind in my last house. When I sold that house it was the first thing that I packed! It is machined so all of its sides are square.
Love your sense of humor Kevin, this steel block has been with me awhile, someone left it behind in my last house. When I sold that house it was the first thing that I packed! It is machined so all of its sides are square.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-30-2014 at 02:38 AM.
11-29-2014, 07:15 AM
#32
Thread Starter
The remainder (lengths) of spars to wing tips change from Spruce to Balsa, which are of the same dimension. Also note that the spar end closest to the wing tip is elevated, I raised the end with a small block of the correct height. Each rib is then glued to this spar giving the wing the correct amount of washout automatically.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-29-2014 at 07:56 AM.
11-29-2014, 08:18 AM
#33
... I installed a cardboard tube which will facilitate the servo wires to run through. The initial openings in the wing were 5/8", but I enlarged them to 3/4" to accommodate a model rocket tube which I substituted for the rolled paper as the plans called for. These rocket tubes come in a variety of diameters and lend themselves well for this purpose. In addition, they also add strength to the wing that rolled paper will not do...
The remainder (lengths) of spars to wing tips change from Spruce to Balsa, which are of the same dimension. Also note that the spar end closest to the wing tip is elevated, I raised the end with a small block of the correct height. Each rib is then glued to this spar giving the wing the correct amount of washout automatically.
11-30-2014, 02:25 AM
#39
Thread Starter
Grey Beard, it's worth looking into, they are very light as well...I will post a photo how I join more than one tube together later on...
Welcome Tim, Mike and Glenn! Glad to see more interest in this build, I think this will be a good project, I'm finding that I really enjoy building these vintage kits.
I was able to locate someone that has photos of the full scale version of this plane, he was willing to sell me the photos so I can study them and help reproduce some of the scale features that the Bravo had!
It will save me the expense of traveling to Iowa to see the actual Bravo for myself.
Welcome Tim, Mike and Glenn! Glad to see more interest in this build, I think this will be a good project, I'm finding that I really enjoy building these vintage kits.
I was able to locate someone that has photos of the full scale version of this plane, he was willing to sell me the photos so I can study them and help reproduce some of the scale features that the Bravo had!
It will save me the expense of traveling to Iowa to see the actual Bravo for myself.
Last edited by VincentJ; 11-30-2014 at 02:34 AM.
11-30-2014, 04:08 AM
#40
Thread Starter
When I use model rocket tubes in wings, I inevitably need to join them to get the length that I need. The best method of joining them is to simply use heat shrink tubing, just slip the heat shrink over the tube and using your heat gun shrink it! It is simple and quick.
12-01-2014, 04:33 AM
#42
Thread Starter
Thanks Kevin! I have often thought that when the "building" part of the project is done and your ready to cover, I always wished that I had built two, one to cover and enjoy flying and the other to enjoy looking at the beauty of the structure...
12-02-2014, 04:33 PM
#43
Thread Starter
Work continues on the left wing. Installing all of the shear webbing tonight, still have a few more to go...
Few things to remember when installing webbing, always orientate the grain vertically and get them to fit snuggly, this will make for a stronger wing. Will be starting on the fuse shortly because I will need to find out exactly where the wing flaps are to the sides of the fuse. The full scale Bravo has flaps but there are no provisions for flaps on the plans. I will incorporate them into the wing on my own.
Few things to remember when installing webbing, always orientate the grain vertically and get them to fit snuggly, this will make for a stronger wing. Will be starting on the fuse shortly because I will need to find out exactly where the wing flaps are to the sides of the fuse. The full scale Bravo has flaps but there are no provisions for flaps on the plans. I will incorporate them into the wing on my own.
12-03-2014, 05:41 AM
#47
Thread Starter
I think so too Tom, seems to me since I am building the wing why not include them, besides it is a scale feature of the plane. Will you be adding flaps to your Bravo? Please feel free to post some pictures of your Bravo here Tom...
12-03-2014, 07:15 AM
#48
If I decide to recover the Bravo, I may consider the addition of flaps.
The fuselage requires the work, though. The stringers, behind the canopy, bend when the covering is tightened. I should pull the covering and stiffen them up.
The fuselage requires the work, though. The stringers, behind the canopy, bend when the covering is tightened. I should pull the covering and stiffen them up.
12-03-2014, 08:03 AM
#49
Thread Starter
Thanks for posting that picture Tom, you did a great job on it. I remember when you built it, I followed your thread with my tongue hanging out. I will be sure to stengthen that area on my Bravo when the time comes...
I will be sure to stengthen that area on my Bravo when the time comes...