Sig Morrisey Bravo Build
12-30-2014, 02:59 AM
#131
Thread Starter
JZHANDYMAN, thank you! My shop is pretty small so I have to try and stay organized...I love my Space Walker, the DLE35 is a perfect match for it. It has all the power that plane needs and then some.
12-30-2014, 01:51 PM
#133
Thread Starter
Welcome Rich, I agree Sig is one of the best companies!
Once the clamps were removed it was time to epoxy the two plywood spar doublers in place, 30 minute epoxy was used. With that done, I decided to add 3/32 x 4" balsa sheeting to the wing. I thought you might be interested in how I cut, fit and glue the sheeting.
First I ensure the edge of the sheeting is straight and square, this task is accomplished by a length of aluminum angle stock that I adhered sandpaper to one side. The sheeting is placed on top of a piece of scrap balsa sheeting, this is done to slightly raise the sheeting off of the build table. The sheeting is weighted down with a large aluminum straight edge ensuring that the sheeting stays in place as I move the angle stock back and forth along the edge of the sheet. I do the same to the opposite side as well...
The next step is to ensure that one end of the sheet is squared up, this is done at my 10" disc sander, then checked with my best square. Now it's time to get the length measured so it will fit within the allotted space, so first I make sure that my pencil is super sharp, my electric pencil sharpener does a good job of this. The sheet is placed on the wing, pencil marks are lightly made on the sheet which is then brought back to the disc sander and sanded to its correct length. Before I try to fit the sheet in place I take a small block sander and lightly chamfer the bottom edges of the sheet that will come in contact with other sheeting. This is done to ensure that any glue that may have not been cleaned off from the previous sheet will not prevent the sheeting from fully seating in place.
The sheet is tested for fit then removed so I can apply glue to the tops of the ribs as well as the edges of the sheeting, Titebond II is used. Blue painters tape is used to pull the edges tight, they act as clamps. Weight is placed atop the sheeting to ensure good contact between the bottom of the sheeting and the ribs. I ensure that I have good contact by using a small mirror and seeing if I have the proper amount of glue squeeze out.
There you have it...
Once the clamps were removed it was time to epoxy the two plywood spar doublers in place, 30 minute epoxy was used. With that done, I decided to add 3/32 x 4" balsa sheeting to the wing. I thought you might be interested in how I cut, fit and glue the sheeting.
First I ensure the edge of the sheeting is straight and square, this task is accomplished by a length of aluminum angle stock that I adhered sandpaper to one side. The sheeting is placed on top of a piece of scrap balsa sheeting, this is done to slightly raise the sheeting off of the build table. The sheeting is weighted down with a large aluminum straight edge ensuring that the sheeting stays in place as I move the angle stock back and forth along the edge of the sheet. I do the same to the opposite side as well...
The next step is to ensure that one end of the sheet is squared up, this is done at my 10" disc sander, then checked with my best square. Now it's time to get the length measured so it will fit within the allotted space, so first I make sure that my pencil is super sharp, my electric pencil sharpener does a good job of this. The sheet is placed on the wing, pencil marks are lightly made on the sheet which is then brought back to the disc sander and sanded to its correct length. Before I try to fit the sheet in place I take a small block sander and lightly chamfer the bottom edges of the sheet that will come in contact with other sheeting. This is done to ensure that any glue that may have not been cleaned off from the previous sheet will not prevent the sheeting from fully seating in place.
The sheet is tested for fit then removed so I can apply glue to the tops of the ribs as well as the edges of the sheeting, Titebond II is used. Blue painters tape is used to pull the edges tight, they act as clamps. Weight is placed atop the sheeting to ensure good contact between the bottom of the sheeting and the ribs. I ensure that I have good contact by using a small mirror and seeing if I have the proper amount of glue squeeze out.
There you have it...
Last edited by VincentJ; 12-30-2014 at 02:02 PM.
12-31-2014, 04:42 AM
#135
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Vince,
I am catching up on the thread this morning, and need to comment on the ruler of a few pages ago. Please look closely at the photo comparing the rulers and you will see the word shrink. Starrett manufactures rules for mold making that permit the finished product to be the proper size. In your case, it is a 1/8 inch shrink in 1 foot, which equates to an iron casting. So if you make a mold for a 1 foot iron piece, the metal would shrink 1/8 inch after cooling.
The ruler is accurate for the purpose intended.
Cheers,
Dave
I am catching up on the thread this morning, and need to comment on the ruler of a few pages ago. Please look closely at the photo comparing the rulers and you will see the word shrink. Starrett manufactures rules for mold making that permit the finished product to be the proper size. In your case, it is a 1/8 inch shrink in 1 foot, which equates to an iron casting. So if you make a mold for a 1 foot iron piece, the metal would shrink 1/8 inch after cooling.
The ruler is accurate for the purpose intended.
Cheers,
Dave
12-31-2014, 04:59 AM
#136
Dave, that might win a prize for best sleuthing ever. What cool things we learn on these threads.
Vinny, the wing looks great. I like the tip to chamfer the underside edge of the sheeting to avoid the glue spillage. Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Happy New Year!
Vinny, the wing looks great. I like the tip to chamfer the underside edge of the sheeting to avoid the glue spillage. Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Happy New Year!
12-31-2014, 05:30 AM
#137
Thread Starter
Mystery solved thanks to Dave! That solves one problem Dave, but now creates another for me...where did I get a "founders" ruler ? 
LOL
I agree Tim, we all get a chance to learn something new when we all share our knowledge... I'm glad you found the tutorial informative, there are many ways of skinning a wing, I just thought you all would like to see how I do it.
Leroy, your keen eye is correct, I have not added any wing mounting blocks as of yet. Two nylon bolts from the wings underside will secure the wing to the fuse. The blocking in the leading edge is already there for additional strength for the two wing dowels which I will also add at a later time.
Cleaned off the build table and rolled out the plan to start building the fuselage. Area highlighted are the changes necessary to accommodate the DA50. Now it's time to make some dust...
Happy New Year to all of you!
LOLI agree Tim, we all get a chance to learn something new when we all share our knowledge...
I'm glad you found the tutorial informative, there are many ways of skinning a wing, I just thought you all would like to see how I do it. Leroy, your keen eye is correct, I have not added any wing mounting blocks as of yet. Two nylon bolts from the wings underside will secure the wing to the fuse. The blocking in the leading edge is already there for additional strength for the two wing dowels which I will also add at a later time.
Cleaned off the build table and rolled out the plan to start building the fuselage. Area highlighted are the changes necessary to accommodate the DA50. Now it's time to make some dust...
Happy New Year to all of you!
12-31-2014, 05:40 AM
#139
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Happy new year Vince , and happy dust making
Dave, thanks for the ruler clarification.
Starret is the gold standard.
Pardon me why I go kiss my starret
Kevin
Ps. My condolences on you shrink Vince
Dave, thanks for the ruler clarification.
Starret is the gold standard.
Pardon me why I go kiss my starret
Kevin
Ps. My condolences on you shrink Vince
Last edited by Melchizedek; 12-31-2014 at 05:58 AM.
12-31-2014, 09:48 AM
#141
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Another option is to put it in the oven set on 5000 degrees for ten minutes
pull out place anvil on top then let cool.
Should expand it. Save the viagra for your sweetheart
Monitor the time closely lest you get a puddle or yard stick
Last edited by Melchizedek; 12-31-2014 at 10:09 AM.
12-31-2014, 01:45 PM
#143
Thread Starter
The initial construction of the fuselage has begun! Left and right fuse main frames have been completed. The first one was made over the plans, the second was made on top of the first to ensure uniformity between halves... Time to leave the work table and spend some time with my honey. I hope you all spend time with family or friends on this New Year's Eve. Have fun and stay safe! 
01-01-2015, 04:08 AM
#145
Thread Starter
Welcome to the thread quiltsfly. Congratulations on finding your Bravo, if you have any questions don't be shy! What are you thinking for power?
Last edited by VincentJ; 01-01-2015 at 04:10 AM.
01-01-2015, 05:51 AM
#146
Thread Starter
Construction started on the fuse's rear main frame. To ensure that it will be straight and true, I first pin two aluminum square stock to my build table, this will ensure that the top and bottom 1/4" balsa rails won't wander off the lines on the plans. I let the ends of the frame rails run proud as I will trim them off after they are completed. The uprights are then added, my tip here is after each piece is cut and fit, glue the end grains and let them sit for about one minute before installing them. By allowing them to sit, the glue will get wicked up into the end grain giving you a much stronger joint.
Last edited by VincentJ; 01-02-2015 at 02:33 AM.
01-01-2015, 08:30 PM
#147
My Feedback: (21)
I'm subscribed! I too have a Bravo kit, and other than the article you presented early on, I think I have assembled ever piece of documentation there is on this plane. When I was researching it, I even talked to Bill Morrisey, who if memory serves was the nephew of the designer Bill Morrisey. I started an informative thread on here at that time, might save you some trouble researching by reading it. Only one of these was ever completed in full scale, and when the company formed to produce them went bankrupt, Hazel Sig got the prototype as partial payment for her investment in the company. She had the airplane repainted from the silver/ white color scheme to the red/ white/ black color scheme, and changed the tail number to reflect their fleet with her husbands initials the last two digits of the tail number, for Maxey Hester. I'd be happy to chat with you about this awesome airplane. It was very interesting researching her for sure. Be sure and go back and read my thread.
Great build so far,
Bryan
Great build so far,
Bryan
01-02-2015, 02:31 AM
#148
Thread Starter
Welcome to the thread Bryan. Will you be starting your Bravo kit soon? I was aware of the bankruptcy and the Hazel Sig piece, but I wasn't aware that there was only one made. I do have the photo documentation pack that I'm sure will prove useful. Please feel free to post any information or pics here anytime. Would love to chat with you about it! Could you provide a link to your thread? Thanks!
01-02-2015, 06:38 AM
#149
Thread Starter
With one rear main frame completed, I'll strip it from the board and start the second. Nothing has been sanded as of yet, that will get done after I complete the second rear main frame. I will lay them next to each other along with the front main frame pieces then I will sand them as one ensuring they are all the same thickness. Gussets will also be made to further reinforce all diagonal bracing joints.
01-02-2015, 09:46 AM
#150
It looks like the fuselage builds a lot like the spacewalker, I like that way and it's a lot easier to keep things truer and then join them. I scanned the plans looking for lengths, couldn't read them well, it looks to be fairly long.
Is the turtle deck covered or is the whole fuse. planked. I like the looks of that plane and the usual nice work you do.
Leroy
Is the turtle deck covered or is the whole fuse. planked. I like the looks of that plane and the usual nice work you do.
Leroy