VincentJ

Thanks Tom, before I do any cutting I am going to measure and check to make sure the standoff lengths are correct. There is currently a bit more than 1/2" clearance between the carb and the firewall. DA, recommends one inch. Just playing with some thoughts, it may be cool to have the scoop (under the cowl) functional, ducting it right into the hole in the firewall...I'll have to check on that when I get the exhaust system for it.

VincentJ

Listening to the weather report this AM, it seem as though we are going to get a visit from Stella within the next few days. She's going to give us 18-24"!

This morning I took the DA off, and rotated the carb 180 degrees as shown in photo #1. It was an easy enough task, just two allen head screws holding it on. You may wonder why I bothered, if you look closely at the throttle arm before I moved it was too high, I wanted the arm lower so I could get the throttle servo closer to where I wanted to mount it. (In case you were wondering)

Switching gears, I moved back to work on the horizontal stabilizer. I changed the locations on the plans where I will be installing 1/8" steel hinge points (Robart). Six in total will be used. With that out of the way, I decided to add a bit more blocking on the trailing edge for the hinge points. Then the sheeting starts! The entire stab is covered using 3/32" sheeting.

VincentJ

Photos 1 & 2 show 3/4" tri-stock bracing which will support a 1/4" thick plywood platform for the landing gear to get bolted to using three 10-32 Allen head bolts.

Photo #3 shows the platform set in place, once epoxied, it should prove more than adequate support for the landing gear. I will not epoxy it quite yet as it will just get in my way until I work out the details for the gas tank and throttle mounting.

Photo 4 shows two Basswood supports for the tank platform. I wanted the platform to be accessible and removable for routine maintenance to the tank. Four 4-40 "T"nuts were epoxied in place. The last photo is the the tank platform which I made from 1/8" Lite Ply, the slots are for two Velcro straps that will secure the tank to the platform. The placement of the slots were not centered by design. (I needed a bit more space on one side of the tank for the throttle servo.)

Though not shown, I completed sheeting the bottom of the stabilizer. I think it came out pretty well, I'll snap a few shots tomorrow.

VincentJ

Good evening everyone... with the impending nor'easter (Stella) on its way tomorrow, I hope to spend some time in my workshop. That is if we don't lose our power!

The bottom of the stabilizer has been completed, and I am now in the process of sheeting the top. A couple of things to point out, notice the small cutouts at the top center and bottom center left uncovered. those portions of the leading and trailing edges are left square and not sanded to part of the airfoil shape. This is by design, if left square and untouched, these areas give you the designed zero incidence once the stab is mounted and "keyed" with other balsa blocks on the fuselage. It's pretty clever, but it does require sanding carefully around those areas of the stabilizer framework for it to work and do its job. It's easy to overlook when your sanding the stab, prepping it for sheeting.

TomCrump

Good luck with the impending storm,

It's here, now, but we are on the edge. It snowed all day but there are only a couple inches on the ground.

VincentJ

Thanks Tom, started snowing at around 5:30 AM already. No wind as of yet, but it's coming...guess your neck of the woods dodged the bullet.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Listening to the weather that is one bullet we all want to dodge! Nice work Vincent you are doing a bang up job of it!

TomCrump

We ended up with less than 2". The sun is out, now, but it's only 21 F.

VincentJ

Thanks Flyer no one can accuse me for not trying at least!

Tom, we are getting hit hard here now, I can keep up with the driveway. If the snow wasn't bad enough, the winds are howling... this storm is interfering with my building, I have to stop every hour and get outside...

TomCrump

Being retired, I have the luxury of sitting back and dealing with storms after they pass.

Speaking of dealing with the storm, my wife found some siding that the storm has blown loose from our house.

VincentJ

You're going to have to address that right away before more pieces of siding come off. I'd be mad too! The snow and wind still persist. Hard to get a gauge on how much snow we got because of the wind and drifting. My guess, over a foot so far...

The little time I was in the shop, I tried to be as productive as I could. A lot of thought went into the throttle placement. I decided that my original idea wasn't going to pan out as I thought, so I went to plan "B". I once again removed the carb from the engine and positioned it back to were it originally was. You can see the hole that I made in the firewall for the linkage, and speaking of holes, I also made an opening for the carb intake as well.

Last photo is of the sheeted stab. Time to carve some balsa tips for the ends.

TomCrump

Would a belcrank help in your throttle linkage installation ? I used one on my Ryan's choke, and it saved the day.

raptureboy

We got hit with 16" here at my place. Cost me a vacation day for missed work and then my plow guy didn't show up so I had to do 700 ft of driveway with a 24" snow blower just to get to work today I bought a generator a while ago and it will run the whole house so no missing out on getting my projects done. Can you hook one up in your condo Vince? Nice work as always, and I hope you will fly this one this time

VincentJ

Thanks for the idea Tom, it would have worked if my second attempt had failed. I'll have to keep that idea in my head for future use.

Cliff, at least you had a snow blower to get rid of the snow! I am definitely going to buy one, will wait 'till they go on sale now. I have always thought of getting a generator, but then there's always a plane that takes the money away from that fund...LOL Hey, I still fly my Spacewalker, besides one hangar queen is enough!!! I've had more people want to buy my Ryan, but I think that in time I may donate it to the AMA museum, for now I get a lot of pleasure just looking at it.

VincentJ

Time to mount the wing to the fuse! I first leveled the fuselage on my build table. Using a tape measure, I made sure the wing was centered, ensuring the same amount of wing extended out the left side of the fuselage as the right.

Photos #2 & #3 show that the wing measurement from table top to the lower edge of the wing is the same on each side. Using a 5/16" bit, two holes were drilled through the ply and into the leading edge of the wing. Hardwood dowels will eventually be glued into the holes of the wing ensuring the alignment is the same each time the wing is installed.

My tip: Don't be in a rush to glue the dowels into the wing now as most directions will have you do. By gluing them in now, makes your later job of covering so much more difficult. Wait until you have covered your wing, then glue those dowels in place!

The battery on my camera died, so I wasn't able to show you the results. Will have to wait until tomorrow...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

There you go confusing the build with logic!

VincentJ

After drilling the two 1/4" holes, I selected a bit a couple of sizes smaller enlarging the holes ever so slightly. This will help the wing slip on and off easier. When completed, I will harden them with some thin CA.

I'm now in the process fitting the left and right 3/4" x 3/4" x 1-1/2" hardwood wing screw anchor blocks to the fuselage. These are proving to be a bit tricky. The sides of the blocks are at compound angles for them to fit tight against the fuse. If that wasn't enough, the top of the blocks must be set flush to the wing's dihedral.

VincentJ

Here's a wing block before it's epoxied into place. Before putting the wing back in place, I took some waxed paper and placed it on the wings top before reinstalling the wing. You can see in photo #2 the block back in place, the wax paper acting as a barrier against the wing getting accidentally and permanently epoxied in place.

With the epoxy drying, I decided to install the top Formers to the fuse. Nothing special here, just made sure they were glued 90 degrees to the top. After twenty minutes I was able to set the 1/4" Balsa square stringers in place. I varied here from the instructions as they called for the stringers to be installed from F-2T to F-3T, then edge gluing the rest from F-2T to the back side of the firewall. Not liking the split in the stringers, I decided to just place the stringers from F-3T all the way to the back side of the firewall without any splices. Notice that I made no attempt to trim the stringers after F-3T, I just let them run proud. I will cut and sand them later.

VincentJ

That's Gypsy, my faithful companion, what great company! Only she knows the mistakes that I've made and she ain't talkin'...

Last we met, I said that I like to keep the stringers long and trim them later. Now that the glue has had sufficient time to set, that time is now. I saw off most of the stringers leaving a 1/6" or so, then I hand sand using 220 grit and finish the job. Doing it this way rather than fitting each piece for final length is quicker and easier. A little more final sanding and I can sheet it.
Note: Prepping for sheeting, the back of the firewall and the area beyond was fuel proofed using finishing resin cut with denatured alcohol. This is an important "good insurance" step that shouldn't be overlooked. If you ever develop a fuel leak you'll be glad you did it.

Last two photos show the Balsa tips that I made for the stabilizer, they just need to be rounded over, but I'll do that later. The stab can be fit to the fuse now.

Tomorrow I think that I'll drill the holes for the 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts. Having a large build table allows me to have many different parts of the build going on at the same time. I'm really enjoying it!

VincentJ

Getting ready to glue the 1/8" sheeting down, but before I did, I decided it would be easier to scribe the instrument panel now instead of later. The original Morrisey Bravo's dash (photo #2) appears to be made from plastic wood laminate, which I am going to simulate with cherry veneer.

TomCrump

Instrument panel ? I'm anxious to see what you come up with.

VincentJ

Me too! LOL

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I'm lazy in the IP department and pay someone else to make them. In my defense the guy I have used in the past was far superior to anything I could produce. Here is the real deal next to the reproduction in 1/5th scale. The reproduction was made in 4 piece at my request to make it easier to assemble in the airplane. You will see a few differences because the IP of the full scale airplane was considered custom and every one of the 15 airplanes built had a different panel and being built in 1938 finding a panel not updated was imposssible.

VincentJ

Very nice work on the IP Flyer. That should look super in your plane. Whoever did it knew what they were doing!

I spent quite a bit of time this weekend looking at all the photos that I have of the Bravo. I have to admit, I was pretty disappointed how crude the interior was, it looked like it was just cobbled together. Since the IP is going to be the only part of my interior that will be visible on my plane, I don't know whether I should try to faithfully reproduce an awful looking IP or take the liberties to upgrade its appearance.

Curious, what do you guys think?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Unless you are entering a scale competition I say upgrade a way and make yourself happy. I took liberties with mine but it is possible my panel could have existed. What airplane flying doesn't get it's instruments upgraded over the years from owner to owner? Would you want to fly an airplane exactly after it left the factory 50+ years ago or would you want the improvements that came later on?