Bonified Wingnut

http://www.rctimer.com/gallery-164.html

They don't seem to hace a nose gear although I don't see why you couldn't modify one. I am not sure. Maybe one of those are.

Calvinman

Wow good prices, have you bought from these guys before, sure would simplify the installation!

Bonified Wingnut

Oh yeah I have bought quite a bit from them: motors, escs, voltage regulators... I have the 5 kg retracts in my Pica Spitfire. Best thing is FREE SHIPPING on most stuff. Worst thing is they are in China and expect it to take a couple weeks to get here.

Calvinman

well, time I have Wingnut

Calvinman

I have ribs 2 and 3 all doubled up as per the instructions(I hope). I am not sure what to use for the 1/8 x 3/8 inch spars, the plan calls for spruce, I have ply(the good stuff) or Basswood.

Bonified Wingnut

I am sure basswood would be fine. I don't know about the ply. I don't like it for long skinny pieces.

gerryndennis

Hi Calvinman,

There's a thread over on groups (I think) about spruce v bass (search 'spruce or bass' should find it). There's some good info re alternative wood species and where to find it. It's a very thin wing so you want good spar caps. I don't think ply would work either.

You might want to think about making a 'box' spar with shear webbing on both sides of the spar caps (maybe 1/8 balsa webs?). I find it easier and stronger to put the webs on the sides of the spar caps as opposed to the I beam spar depicted on the plan. In theory it's better to have the web in the middle but I worry about the end grain glue joint. Up to you, either should work fine.

Cheers

Dave H

Calvinman

Thanks for the heads up Dave, I will check the thread out. I was thinking along the same lines as far as the shear webs, much easyer to get a good glue joint doing a box spar.

Calvi

Calvinman

Ok, it seems to me that basswood is good enough for the spars so after a few tries as ripping some to 3/8" I am just about ready to start gluing ribs to spars. I picked up some Hobbico mechanical retracts and I am hopefull I can make them work.

Bonified Wingnut

The retracts should work. Maybe the wheel well can be moved as long as it isn't too far front or back of the cg. I think I have the same ones.

Calvinman

I have all the ribs glued to the bottom spar except R1, it seems the plans have the notch for the spar way to far forward for some reason. After the glue has set up on the rest of the ribs I will mark and notch the R1 ribs.

Bonified Wingnut

Maybe the ribs there are reversed since I think they are internal...Maybe?

Calvinman

AH I think you hit the nail on the head there Wingnut, I am sure glad for the heads up, thanks.

Bonified Wingnut

No problem. I grabbed my plans and looked at it and it appears that it tapers down in front of the prop. It will still be a while before I start mine.

Calvinman

I should have had a look at the construction article, this is why I like pictures

Bonified Wingnut

Oh yeah that helps!

gerryndennis

Yeah your R1 ribs go the other way round, but you worked that out, well done.

There should be long slender triangular supports running the length of the leading and trailing edges of the ribs. These will support the ribs at the correct angle and prevent warps in the wing. It's not too late to slide them in now but you will definitely want them there when you start sheeting the wing.

You definitely need to have the wheels very close to the plan position when extended. If they are too far aft the model will be difficult to rotate to takeoff attitude (this model takes off quite nose high), if they are forward of the cg the model will sit on its butt.

I would see how far forward you can slide those retracts before you hit the top wing skin, then you will have to bend the legs forward until the wheels are in the correct position. Should fit with a bit of persuasion.

It's looking good so far

Dave H

Calvinman

Hi Dave, yes the insructions don't seem to mention the shims till it is time to sheet the wings, so today I am going to get some board to pin the jigs too as I am building on a metal sheet right now. The retracts look like the will fit fairly well, but won't know for sure till the time comes to plan that stage out. I will talke a few overhead shots with the retracts in what I think to be the correct position and see what you gents think.

Calvi

S_Ellzey

I just came across this and was amazed that someone is making a kit of my old design. And I am very glad that it is still generating interest with you guys.

If I can answer any question I would be glad to.

As to the retracts; lose the Goldberg’s and go with a modern design. Move them as far forward as possible and tilt them to get the wheel close to the spot on the plans. The Goldberg’s have a weak spot in the up/down lock, so even if you find a pair, you might need a few spare locks to keep them going.

By the way, there is a Crusader III, turbine powered. Sorry no plans.

Steven Ellzey

Calvinman

Nice looking aircraft Steven,

Yes I have wanted to build a Crusader for years and after getting back into the hobbie last year I found a short kit. I am taking the summer off to fly but will get back into the build in the fall. I am at the stage now where I have to put the leading edge on and fit the retracts, I did buy new retracts and I think I will have no trouble making things work out. I can't wait to see it fly!!

Calvi

Calvinman

Hi Steven, I was wondering if you have any pics of the Crusader ll you could share with us, the only ones available online are kind of small?

Calvi

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

Hi Calvin, how's the build progressing? Are you flying with WRCC or Wham? Either field is 10 minutes from my house. I would like to see this one fly. I have my own old RCM F/A-18 pusher I plan to test fly in the next couple of weeks (Long over due).

What are you flying presently? How's the LDS short kit for quality. I noticed they have the Kirkland A6-Intruder as a short kit. So many planes, not enough time or money.

Jim

Calvinman

Hi Jim, I fly at WHAM. I always take out my old Sky Tiger, my new Ultrasport(I have two of them) and my new C.A.T which is an RCM plans built Canard Assisted Tailess. The quality all in all of the short kit is alright, a little slip of the work piece when they cut the firewall pieces and some of the quarter inch sheet parts were punky. The ribs with the exception of the tip ribs are nice wood. I am trying to get myself back to work on it but I think the snow will have to fly first. I would love to see your F-18 fly as that is another my favorites also. I am (hopefully) going out flying this Thursday weather and honey do list permitting your are welcome to come out and maiden that baby at our field. Will post more later, we just got back from a mostly rainy weekend at the lake and time to get ready for work in the morning.

Calvi

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

I really have to stop looking at Environment Canada, the weather keeps changing every half hour. Now it's raining Thursday and Friday this coming week. Tuesday/Thursday I'm at WRCC (Training Night) my 10 year old son Brent is working on getting his "Wings" this summer. He's so close. The F-18 has to be test flown. It'll be interesting. A little heavier than I wanted it to be, but it should fly.

Jim

S_Ellzey

I am afraid that I can't find the original prints from the artical. They were 35mm b&w prints (only 1 roll) plus a roll of Kodachrome slides for the color photos. I have moved since doing the artical and probably were lost then.