TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Ram3500 (Gary) I have a question for you. On the Moki 180 what is the break in, bench or inflight? And how long? Second what is the post or preflight maintenance each time you go flying? Do you have to take the cowl off every time you fly and what els does this engine need that does not come in the box? I know. There is a long on going thread on Moki's but the info is overwhelming and hard to get specifics.

Thanks.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Talked to Darrlle today at Sierra Giant Scale and ordered my gear, mains, tail retract, 6" scale wheels, 3" tail wheel.

Next is the electronics,
Smart fly PowerSystem Competition 12 Turbo Plus. Futaba 14ch receiver.
Fromeco ironcorps 7.4v 5200 bats


HS-7954SH for elevator, HS-5805MG for ailerons, flaps, rudder, and steering. HS-5645MG for throttle, choke, and cowl flaps. The inner coole doors wil be two Frigelli L12- 100mm 210:1 Linear Actuators.


For the canopy I will use one of the larger Frigelli, they have a 4"-6"-8"-10" and 12", I think the 8" will be fine.



Still working on the engine choice


TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Just heard from Voglesang that they will have the new Valach 120cc inline FS


The sound

https://www.toni-clark.com/english/s..._the_voice.htm


TB

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Very simple Tony.

Break in is in the air. Tack the engine for 3800 to 3900 on the ground (26 X 16 prop on the 150, not sure about the 180), this keeps it out of the danger zone when unloaded.

Pre-flight before you fly each day, not each flight. Yes, remove the cowl (the reason why I attach my operational cowl flaps to the fuselage, making the front of the cowl easy to get over the radial) and oil all the rockers and push rods.

Break-in procedure. Check and adjust as needed the valves after each flight, first allowing the engine to cool. Do this after every flight until you find they no longer need adjustment. This usually takes 8 to 10 flights. At this point, the engine is run in. I check them after 10 flights or so after this. Usually they are fine.

I run an electric fuel pump on all my radials, but some would say this is optional.

I know of guys with 100 + flights on their Moki engines (using fuel pumps) with no problems. A good maintenance routine is all it takes, as with most mechanical things. The horror stories you hear usually have a deeper story line.

Hope this helps.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks Gary, this does help. I think I would temp mount it to my 40% cub as it would be a good break in test bead for the Moki, then once it is all run in, mount it to the jug.

TB

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yea, not a bad idea. Needs broke in in the air though. Variable throttle settings and all.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

So engine choice is the only thing left to decide, I have also decided to redo the configuration on my BH 40% Super Cub so that frees up four servos and Two match boxes. Also the last component I forgot that I want to add to this build is the Demon Cortex 3 Axes Giro. I have been testing it in my Pawnee and it really smooths out the flight in breezy conditions. Despite what some may think that they fly the plane for you, they don't. They make a good flying plane a great flying plane.

I am torn between the sound of the four strokes VS the easy and power of the two strokes. With a four stroke there will be a need to take the cowl off periodically to maintain the four strokes. Two strokes once run in and tuned your done.

For the Moki I would do a two piece cowl with the cowl flaps attached to the rear section of the cowl and the front section of the cowl would be removable exposing the engin heads of the radial for maintenance. Most are making the cowl flaps attached to the fuselage and the cowl us removed from there, I will try a different way.

For an inline FS I would do removable side panels to access the engine and to install the cowl, this would be the same for two strokes. Once I have the cowl in hand I can see more how that will work.

If I go with a two stroke most likely it will be the DA 100I
the Roto moto 170 is still an option and from the manual is easier to maintain and access would be easier with the two side panels.

so it is between the Moki 180, the Roto moto 170, and the DA 100I

just waiting on the kit.


TB

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

The most popular engine for this plane is the DA 85. Great performance, slightly above scale power IMO, but can be flown very scale, as first place finishes at Top Gun will attest to.

As for the cowl flaps, I would say that most builders are attaching them to the cowl, but those planes do not have the radial. It is not possible to get the drive structure over the radial engine, which is the reason why I opted to separate them from the cowl. Another factor is that the full scale was attached to the fuselage, and remained, even after all the cowl panels were removed. Also, the servo connections for the flaps can then be a permanent part of the rest of the radio in the fuselage. As far as I know, I am the only one to do this on a Jug equipped with the Moki radial so far. With any engine other than a radial, the one piece cowl is no problem as it can easily be maneuvered over the engine. I have done it this way myself with 2-strokes.

The operational cowl flaps do serve a useful purpose though. Very important with radial equipped planes as they open much farther than the stock cowl setting, providing better cooling. With the 2-strokes, they can also enhance cooling reducing the need for the large cheater hole in the bottom of the cowl. It is nice to see your Jug cowl look scale when you roll her or bank away from the flight line in a nice slow pass. In maneuvers like this, inner gear doors and scale looking cowls really shine.

mirce

I used Evolution 80 GX on my Meister P 47, it can fly, but more power will be good to have. Probably same story is with DA 85 also.

Moki will be best option (my opinion), but price is almost 5x more than Evolution or DA...

Because this is new topic, maybe some builders can see some older Meister Scale P 47 buildings, here on RCU.
One of them is: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...step-step.html

Gary have great big topic too, so he can put link also...

On web site www.nsmodelers.rs you can find some sets for Thunderbolt scale finish.

This airplane is great, it is impressive on the ground, but in the air also. It's easy for build and for fly...

Best regards

Mirce

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Well it is disission time. I have thought about it and discussed it with fellow modeler and mentors. I am going to go with the DA100 inline twin. A Moki 180 would be nice but to be honest more fuse and work while flying then I want. This will be flown every weekend and not just at a few events a year so I really want a flip and go engine. The DA inline seams the best choice and will give enough scale power.

Im just throwing this out into the build world to get some feedback. I do not have an unlimited budget and with the DA I can sneak in a Solo prop.

So as of now the DA100 inline is in the cart waiting the bomb drop of the finger.

TB

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Well, Dino is flying his Top Gun P-47 entry this year with a DA 100i. So you will have some very good help with set up I would think. The exhaust will be more challenging than the radial (very easy to do) would be, but Dino can probably help with that as well. If we could turn the clock back, you could have bought the one I just sold new in the box (serial #003) for the $1200 I sold it for. Looking forward to watching your build come together.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Yes I know the Moki would be the easiest install with muffler and scale exits, baffling and cowl install but the DA will be easier in the long run, flip and fly every weekend.

Dino says he has one engine left serial #003, is that your engine?

TB

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yes. It was NIB. Fitted to a P-47 and then put back it the package. Twin ignition and everything that comes with it from DA.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Here are some pics of how I will baffle the inline engine. With the large opening and the chine scoop I should be able to baffle all the air to one side and force it threw the cylinder heads and out the cowl flaps. Some creative mounts for the engine, baffling and cowl will be designed.









TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

DP

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

After considering it long and hard I went and purchased the Moki 180


This engine will crown my build and it deserves it ( no I really deserve it).
The install will be much cleaner with scale exhausts, and no baffling required.
A solo four blade prop. The engine should ship today and once I have it I will stair at it for a few days


When it is time I will temp mount it to my 40% super cub for break in. That alone will be a blast.


Now I am really excited as I am furiously trying to finish my TFGS P-47 so I can start on this build.


TB

mirce

Bravo Tony,

Moki is best choice for your model. And sound.... Unrepeatable...

Regards

Mirce

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

With the engine choice made and shipped, I am thinking I will start with the stab and fuselage once the kit gets here.
I don't think I will use the smart fly, just the 14ch receiver and a single battery. Still need to get a few servos and I'm ready to go.

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

My gear and wheels came yesterday from Sierra, thanks Darrell.

Man this gear is really sweet. I have seen pics of it but until you see it in hand, it is impressive.

The tail retract.



This gear looks like it has been improved from all the pics I have seen. It does not have the centering spring wire.
It has a grove and tab that locks the wheel strait when retracted. The spring that helps in dampening also works the locking mechanism.



I am still not grasping the diferance in size on this build over the TFGS P-47
here they are side by side.



Mains



This gear is very stout, the struts are well made and look great.



Here is a side by side of the smaller yellow gear in my TFGS P-47



This gear will be a joy to install as it has the offset cylinder so you can move it forward to to LE for a scale installation.



The wheels

the mains are 6"



Here they are side by side with the 5"



The tail wheel is a 3" Sullivan sky lite tire with an aluminum hub by Darrell.



Next comes the engine

TB

mirce

One small tip, on tail wheel retract, change pin between air cylinder and sliding part (picture number three on your first row).
On my Meister Scale P 47, that pin dropped after some time. I think that I put small screw with nut.

For main gear, if you want, check how I made plate. I change angle a little to struts come more forward. That give you extra stability on ground.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ep-step-3.html

Also, from plate bottom side I add wood for extra strength...
You can see everything on pictures....

Regards

Mirce

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks Mirce, I will look at it. I am doing a scale install on the mains and will see how that fits I want them to be as close to the full scale as possible for gear location and the doors. I'm a ways away from the wing as I will start on the fuselage first.

Two things come into play when setting the gear mount blocks. How the gear is when it is extended, wheels aligned strait with just a tad toe in, not much just inside the bubble. The axle should be as close to the LE when the plane is level, the full scale they are just behind the LE from what I have seen but I will resurch that before I do the install. Secondly how the gear fits in the wing and the gear doors. So all this is considered when installing the gear regardless to how the manual or plans say they go. I will be doing a lot of modifications and changing things as I go. I need to blow up my 3 view drawings to the size of my plane as this will be my documentation that I will be fallowing.

I will be using your build as a general manual, thank you for posting that build.


TB

mirce

Tony, do not blame me, I just want to point you some details, because I made and flown this model.

Some things must be kept original, and something you will have to refine if you want to model serve you better later when you start to use it on the airfield ...
Anyway, I want you to enjoy in building and then in flying Thunderbolt...

All the best from Senta, Serbia

Mirce

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

So with Dino at Top Gun this weekend I would think I won't see my kit for a few weeks. Starting to plan some of the details and will start with the mock up of the elevator and ruder hinges, I'm ordering the bearings and the pins I need, I have the G-10. I want to build all hinges in as I frame and befor I skin the surfaces. This will be a little different then what I have done with first finishing the framing and then drilling the hinges in, these will be attached to the ribing.

Other things I am looking at is to add more stringers like I did on my TFGS P-47. This should reduce the starved horse look and eliminate all the spackel.

If there is room I would like to mount the elevator servo in the tail with the tail wheel, this way I can have a short pushrod. Lots of ideas swirling around

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I hung my plans this morning, man those are some big plans, from floor to ceiling!

They are next to my TFGS P-47 and I can really see how much bigger it is

My TFGS P-47 is a couple feet short of the ceiling and the fuselage plan is almost 8' from tail to spinner

I ordered all my air retract stuff like two large air tanks, fill valve, couplers, hose, and a few items I need for the hinges, like my hinge pin and clips. Once this comes I will start on the hinges and fit them into a mock up so once my kit comes I can get to framing the stab and elevator. Left to get is a fuel pump for the Moki, prop, and some servos.

My work table is a 36"x 81" solid core door so I think the fuselage will fit on that, the wing gets built one halve at a time until the second gets built to the first and at 8'-6" it will hang over the table but will fit.

I just finished the wing tip navigation lights for my 40% super cub and I am using the same 1w 8mm LEDs. They work great and will be a good fit for the Meister.



I am looking at a 12v 20w LED for the landing light. All on a Rcxel optical switch (pour mans nav system).

TB

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

I'm a proud owner of a Moki 180 Wow what an impresive engine. I haven't really looked at it but just the weight of it and the up close look of it is really cool.



The engine comes in a very nice HD box and the engine is mounted to a finished piece of 3/4" ply.



This is a work of art and will crown my build.



One of the really cool things about this engine besides the sound is the easy of installation, the mount is user friendly and the ring muffler is ready to go for scale exhausts.



Some more shots of this marvel.



The ignition is rated for 6v to 9v

I will use either a Fromeco Lithome ion 2300 7.4v or a 5200. I have a few of each.



So I'm totally pumped, got my gear, engine and kit is ordered. I think kits take 4-6 weeks so I'm waiting.

TB