Rustoleum?
04-26-2002, 11:10 AM
#2
My Feedback: (2)
Rustoleum?
Just spray it on in thin coats. It'll run pretty quick on you if you try and cover in one or two coats. I do it all the time. Even paint trim moneykote, ultracoat and solartex. I use 15% fuel most of the time. Standard surface prep should be followed. Clean, light buffing to give the paint something to stick to. Although I've had pretty good luck without any prep work done.
Edwin
Edwin
04-26-2002, 04:25 PM
#4
Rustoleum?
Plasti-Kote Acrylic Lacquer works better. Be sure to read the fine print on the back of the can. If it doesn't say ACRYLIC lacquer it could be nitrate lacquer which is not fuel proof. The truck and van paints are available in large cans for about $4 at Autozone and other auto parts stores.
04-26-2002, 04:35 PM
#5
My Feedback: (2)
Rustoleum?
djlyon,
Dont know what could be going on. I have found that waiting a week or 2 for curing time helps. Could that be it? Other than that, surface prep is the only other thing I can think of. I have a GP Decathalon thats about 8 years old, the cowl done with red and yellow. The only difference is that one was flown with 10%. The others are flown with 15%. Corsair with grey to feather the bottom to the top colors. Just recently a souped up twinstar, red, white, and blue on solartex. The only thing I did different was wait longer (due to weather) before applying fuel to it. The corsair and decathalon were monocote.
Edwin
Dont know what could be going on. I have found that waiting a week or 2 for curing time helps. Could that be it? Other than that, surface prep is the only other thing I can think of. I have a GP Decathalon thats about 8 years old, the cowl done with red and yellow. The only difference is that one was flown with 10%. The others are flown with 15%. Corsair with grey to feather the bottom to the top colors. Just recently a souped up twinstar, red, white, and blue on solartex. The only thing I did different was wait longer (due to weather) before applying fuel to it. The corsair and decathalon were monocote.
Edwin
04-26-2002, 04:47 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2002
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Rustoleum?
Rust oleum is probably one of the best paints available in a rattle can of all the other hardware store brands. dries to a very hard and good looking finish. it seems to stand up to the castor oil residue- but you dont want to dump raw fuel on it. I have tried a number of "fuel proof" single part paints, and they all still seem to be affected by raw fuel. just gotta be careful when fueling.
04-26-2002, 05:02 PM
#7
Rustoleum?
I hate enamals, takes too long to dry, picks up more dust, and sometimes never seem to completly cure. Even polyurethane takes too long to cure IMO. Lacquer's dry to touch in 15 minutes, and you can fly the next day. BTW Sig and Brodak dope is basicly a lacquer and take longer to dry than Acrylic Lacquer. Brodak dope was formulated by control line champ Windy Urtnowski. His before this his favorite paint job was 3 coats of silver dope sand until the primer shows, another couple of coats of silver, sand, and finish with acrylic lacquer. Acrylic lacquer fills quicker than dope, cures faster, and about the same fuel proof qualities. If planning to use high nitro you can overcoat it with clear polyurethane and it will still be fuel proof when you scratch the poly.
05-04-2002, 12:42 AM
#8
Rustoleum?
The Alkyd Enamels (Rust Oleum ) Take an ETERNITY to dry and a lot longer to CURE. They aren't very fuel proof at all until they CURE. At that time however they are tough and durable.The fuel resistance varies with the color as well.
Like SportPilot says laquer is a lot quicker.
Like SportPilot says laquer is a lot quicker.
