Klass Kote painting. Brush or spray
#1
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Klass Kote painting. Brush or spray
Ok. I admit I am not the greatest painter in the world, either brush or spray, but I manage
I do own a fairly good air brush and a low cost HVLP Wagner system
The question is. Should I spray or brush KK paint over a fiberglass finish
Thanks
Larry
I do own a fairly good air brush and a low cost HVLP Wagner system
The question is. Should I spray or brush KK paint over a fiberglass finish
Thanks
Larry
Last edited by phakur; 06-27-2016 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Mia spelling
#2
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I get much better results spraying. I use a touchup gun and more thinner than recommended. My mix is 1 part A, 1 part B, and 2 parts thinner. For the thinner I use about half a part of Klass Kote reducer and the balance Klean Strip lacquer thinner from Walmart.
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#3
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My vote is to also spray! KK is a very heavy paint. I quit using it, since it is an epoxy paint. I have since switched over to PPG/Omni paints with much better results with a base coat and clear. KK takes a while to dry too, so, if you are doing it in the garage or outside, make sure you have a bug free zone for the first couple hours of drying. PPG paints dry almost instantly, so less chances of bugs ruining your finish.
#4
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My vote is to also spray! KK is a very heavy paint. I quit using it, since it is an epoxy paint. I have since switched over to PPG/Omni paints with much better results with a base coat and clear. KK takes a while to dry too, so, if you are doing it in the garage or outside, make sure you have a bug free zone for the first couple hours of drying. PPG paints dry almost instantly, so less chances of bugs ruining your finish.
#5
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http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-45-Pi...n-Kit/50246671
For the small stuff, I have a Crescendo 175 Air Brush with both kinds of paint.
Biggest thing now to watch, is how much thinner you use for our humidity right now. Doesn't matter which paint you use for the humidity issues. Unless you have a humidity controlled spray booth that exhaust outside.
#6
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Thanks Guys--sounds like spraying is the way to go--I'm gonna try out my Wagner HVLP on something first to see how it goes.
Right now weather here is hot an humid. I need to wait till Sep-Oct which isn't a problem.
Larry
Right now weather here is hot an humid. I need to wait till Sep-Oct which isn't a problem.
Larry
#10
Thanks and looking for some directions
First I can't argue with the results of the finish on the planes shown..Wow
Since the discontinuing of the Lustre Kote spray cans, I've been forced to use my local body shop for what painting I need done. He's VERY accommodating, and accordingly VERY willing to take my MONEY. Looking for a better solution, research brought me to Klass Kote, Spraying is now the issue, with no spray equipment, it appears LPHV is the best solution. There are as many opinions as there are types of LPHV types of equipment. One fellow in our club uses the PREVAL (also LPHV??) system. Kinda like a refillable spray bottle/can. Looking for thoughts on what you're all using, why and recommendations.
Thanks ,
Got2retire (finally did)
Since the discontinuing of the Lustre Kote spray cans, I've been forced to use my local body shop for what painting I need done. He's VERY accommodating, and accordingly VERY willing to take my MONEY. Looking for a better solution, research brought me to Klass Kote, Spraying is now the issue, with no spray equipment, it appears LPHV is the best solution. There are as many opinions as there are types of LPHV types of equipment. One fellow in our club uses the PREVAL (also LPHV??) system. Kinda like a refillable spray bottle/can. Looking for thoughts on what you're all using, why and recommendations.
Thanks ,
Got2retire (finally did)
#11
I use a Grex gun, but looking at their site I don't see it listed. Its a really nice quality detail gun that I use for painting and for spraying mold release with. I also have a Harbor Freight gun for primer. I haven't sprayed KK paint though I do have some. It stinks a lot so limited where I can spray, and like mentioned, can attract bugs and dirt. I spray automotive base/clear now or Latex and 2K clear.
#12
Ed,
I would like to turn out a plane with a finish like you have shown in your pictures....
If you have time, I've got a couple of question... First, can I send my completed "Shark LT (arf) to you for painting??? Just kidding..
Having only used Lustre Kote in spray cans, and only for cowlings, I've got zero experience with prepping balsa wood for spray painting. Would you share some of your secrets, once sanded smooth, polyurethane then primer? finishing epoxy then primer?
Any secrets to Klass Kote?
In the mean time, I'm going to do some research and invest in some spray equipment.
Tom
(got2retire)
I would like to turn out a plane with a finish like you have shown in your pictures....
If you have time, I've got a couple of question... First, can I send my completed "Shark LT (arf) to you for painting??? Just kidding..
Having only used Lustre Kote in spray cans, and only for cowlings, I've got zero experience with prepping balsa wood for spray painting. Would you share some of your secrets, once sanded smooth, polyurethane then primer? finishing epoxy then primer?
Any secrets to Klass Kote?
In the mean time, I'm going to do some research and invest in some spray equipment.
Tom
(got2retire)
#13
I've used KK paint on many of my builds and have always been more than pleased with the results that I have gotten. First off, I am not a professional painter and I spray in my garage and not in a fancy spray booth. Yes the paint does smell, and yes it's not the cheapest paint that you can use but...I believe it to be the best paint that I have ever used. Your success first starts with a good gun that will properly atomize the paint. I use a Sata minijet 3000B HVLP gun. This is a photo of my last build/paint.
BTW, edp very impressive planes and paint work!
Last edited by VincentJ; 05-03-2018 at 02:47 AM.
#14
The only issue I have with KK is the cure time. Living out in farm country, dust is a killer and that finish would look like sand paper before it cured. I found using auto base/clear on a hot day with hot reducer and hardener gives a finish as nice as that, but is tack free in 20 minutes or less. I still let it cure 24 before handling just to be safe, but I have less correction to do than I would with KK, which is also much harder to correct due to it being epoxy based. If I have access to a booth though, different story.