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  1. #1
    soarrich's Avatar
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    A modified Kadet Sr silk and doped.

    I started this last year then got side tracked on other things. Tom Crump let me post a couple of pictures on one of his threads, but I figured it was time to make a thread on this plane.

    First I'm building to teach my grandson to fly RC, it's not to make a plane for me to fly, I have plenty, so there's no rush on this one. I had him try flying my LT-40, but that didn't workout for a couple of reasons, but now he's going to be 8 and I think he's matured enough to try again.

    I wanted electric because the nitro plane's noise scares him, and I wanted to do it in silk and dope because they just look so much nicer. I've used no CA, just wood glue and Ambroid, old school

    I made some sanders for doing the round edges of the fin and stab from a deck of cards I bought at the dollar store, and I changed the out line of the stab/elevator and fin to make it look nicer.
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    Last edited by soarrich; 07-24-2016 at 07:22 AM.
    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  2. #2
    soarrich's Avatar
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    I wanted to change the boxy look of the Sr without hurting it's flight characteristics. I started with putting the wing tips on backwards and flat on the table. I the realized there was enough scrap balsa in the kit to make some half ribs for the wing. I then added more shear-webbing and diagonal bracing. No I don't think it's needed, thousands of Srs have been built and flown without it, I just wanted to do it.
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    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  3. #3
    soarrich's Avatar
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    I glassed the center section so I had to add a solid bottom where it sits on the fuse, and added some G10 where I have the wing bolts going.
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    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  4. #4
    soarrich's Avatar
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    I started the fuse, it was a little too boxy for me so I changed it up some.
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    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  5. #5
    soarrich's Avatar
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    I made the nose a little thinner. More later my wife wants to go out now.
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    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  6. #6
    skylark-flier's Avatar
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    Lookin' GOOD, Rich!!
    Dave W. TSgt, USAF/SS-ESC (Retired, 1968-1990)
    AMA #94881, Vintage R/C Society #208
    " Old-school" C/L (1955) & R/C (1973) Sport Flier

    SIG Kadet B'hood #69 , SIG B'hood #109 , Glowhead B'hood #51 ,
    Cub
    B'hood #198
    , Golden Era Aircraft B'hood #16 ,

    Flying field coords: 38.650863,-78.44985

    SIG Mfg Co. Model Aircraft Kits History

    Website showing, in detail, every plane ever kitted by SIG Mfg Co.

  7. #7
    soarrich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skylark-flier View Post
    Lookin' GOOD, Rich!!
    Thanks, a lot of pictures to come.

    I decided I didn't like the very open sticky appearance under the wing so I sheeted it over. Real windows don't seem to age well on models, they seem to be the first places age shows itself, so I got rid of them.

    I didn't want rubber bands so I used 1/4" x 20 nylon screws at the trailing edge of the wing, I built a cuff that goes over the leading edge of the wing to hold it there. I've included a picture of how I made a cuff for my LT-40 ARF.
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    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  8. #8
    soarrich's Avatar
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    I didn't want the fuse to look boxy so I added stringers.
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    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  9. #9
    soarrich's Avatar
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    I started silking the wing, this is only my second silk job so I'll probably have some mistakes. These are some pictures of my wing as I silk it, the darker finish is just low light, it really looks like the pictures where it is white. This is the Nitrate coats, 2 coats brushed on so far. I fly with the great designer/builder Dick Sarpolus, so I'm going to take the wing to the field today and get his opinion if it needs more nitrate or if now I can go onto the Butyrate coats, I'm down to 4oz. of Nitrate but I've got gallons of Butyrate. It's my understanding that the Nitrate is the glue and primer, the Butyrate is the paint.
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    Last edited by soarrich; 07-24-2016 at 07:54 AM.
    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  10. #10
    soarrich's Avatar
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    I'm at the fuse doping stage now. I didn't know how so I just did the bottom, then the sides, then the top, I was afraid if I tried to do it in less pieces I would have a wet cluster F on my hands.

    I'm a little nervous about the stab/fuse connection, it doesn't look like there's going to be much to glue too.

    Seem like enough room for the radio. I'm making it Rudder, Elevator, Throttle.
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    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  11. #11

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    I've always started with nitrate, and I used exactly what you're using, Randolph Tautening Nitrate. I used silk from Thai Silks, which is pre-shrunk, and the tautening dope barely did the job after about three or four coats. A lot of people use only butyrate dope, so I don't think it's critical at all when you make the switch, as long as you can get the shrink. Sig Litecoat and Brodak dope are plasticised to minimize shrinking, as are all the Sig colors, so make sure you've got a good tight surface before applying color. I was using dyed silk with clear dope and didn't use quite enough dope to completely seal it. I would use more coats next time. Make sure there are no pin holes before going to color.

    Jim

  12. #12
    soarrich's Avatar
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    Thanks for the information Jim, I also am using Thai Silks. I did the tail feathers last March and the bottom of the stab just wasn't tight enough, I thought it would tighten up, but it never did, so I just cut it off and resilked it. I've learn you just have to tug harder than you would imagine you could without ripping the silk. I'm going to be using Brodak colors waffling between Hunter Green with Ivory and Gold, Brown, Sandlewood trim over a Dianna Cream.
    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  13. #13

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    It's a tough job, isn't it? I love the look, but I don't know if I'll do it again. The China red silk looked fabulous, but it was really hard to get it right.

    I put my silk on very wet and pulled hard too, trying not to distort. Sometimes I put thinner on, took it all off, and re-did it. My biggest mistake was not putting on enough coats. After awhile oil leaked through and made the covering splotchy.

    I modified my 4 Star also, going for a little classier look, at least that's what I thought. Yours has a good 1930s looks to it. I'd go with Golden Age wheels instead of WWI type. It's looking really nice. The diagonals in the wing are an excellent idea. I hate it when wings warp after a few years, and that should prevent it. Sig does that on the 4 Star 60. Here's mine, silked...
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  14. #14
    soarrich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buzzard bait View Post
    Yours has a good 1930s looks to it. I'd go with Golden Age wheels instead of WWI type.

    I think they're 30's looking.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWAB2&P=ML

    Here's mine, silked...
    Did you silk it in Yellow then put swatches of Red silk to make the trim? Looks great!
    Rich Border AMA 77727
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #2

  15. #15
    TomCrump's Avatar
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    Your progress looks great, Rich !
    Tom C

    Sig Brotherhood # 120
    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #155
    Golden Era Aircraft #2

  16. #16

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    Thanks Rich; I silked with red on the fuse and yellow on wings and tail feathers. Then I used Sig Red (Tennessee?) dope to paint on trim, cowl and the sheeted fuse area behind the cowl. The cowl is carved balsa block covered in silk. One of the great things about silk is the way it goes around compound curves like the cowl. Once it is well doped you can feather the seams with sandpaper.

    Jim

  17. #17
    Pork Chop's Avatar
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    Alan P

    AMA 471103
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    Sig Kadet Brotherhood #182
    Field: 38.325, -122.007


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