New Balsa USA Smoothie XL Build
#101
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Hi Pappy 35,
You are moving right along. You explain your build more thoroughly than me. I guess I'm a man of few words. LOL That is strange since I was a high school teacher for 36 yrs. LOL.
You will love Solartex. I put it on with one of my wife's old flatirons. You really don't have to worry with high heat, it doesn't melt easily. I use a wet cold washcloth when I put it on. Iron it down and then immediately hit it with wet cloth. It really bonds and you get no bubbles or wrinkles later, even in the hot sun. Servos in the back will work well. From what I experienced from just moving the plane around it's pretty nose heavy. I think with your engine setup you will have a great flying plane with unlimited performance.
Again , thanks for your in put, it's nice to compare notes.
Thanks,
Fred
You are moving right along. You explain your build more thoroughly than me. I guess I'm a man of few words. LOL That is strange since I was a high school teacher for 36 yrs. LOL.
You will love Solartex. I put it on with one of my wife's old flatirons. You really don't have to worry with high heat, it doesn't melt easily. I use a wet cold washcloth when I put it on. Iron it down and then immediately hit it with wet cloth. It really bonds and you get no bubbles or wrinkles later, even in the hot sun. Servos in the back will work well. From what I experienced from just moving the plane around it's pretty nose heavy. I think with your engine setup you will have a great flying plane with unlimited performance.
Again , thanks for your in put, it's nice to compare notes.
Thanks,
Fred
#102
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Collierville, TN
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Thanks. I didn't want you to think I was taking over your thread.
Love the idea of using a template for the tail blocks. Pure genius. As for covering, I did order the SolarTex sample pack BUSA sells.
Love the idea of using a template for the tail blocks. Pure genius. As for covering, I did order the SolarTex sample pack BUSA sells.
#103
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#1: Tail section parts glued and sanded.
#2 and 3: Just a couple of general views of the fuselage with all the 3/16" longerons and cross-braces installed.
#4: Landing gear mount installation. When you're going to use epoxy, don't skimp. Hysol applied with a gun and mixing tube is worth it's weight in gold. Accurate application, high strength, and no mess. While it's a bit pricey to buy the gun, the mixing tubes are fifty cents or so each and though it might seem that the volume lost in the tube is wasteful, this setup actually results in less waste and much more precise application than other methods.
#2 and 3: Just a couple of general views of the fuselage with all the 3/16" longerons and cross-braces installed.
#4: Landing gear mount installation. When you're going to use epoxy, don't skimp. Hysol applied with a gun and mixing tube is worth it's weight in gold. Accurate application, high strength, and no mess. While it's a bit pricey to buy the gun, the mixing tubes are fifty cents or so each and though it might seem that the volume lost in the tube is wasteful, this setup actually results in less waste and much more precise application than other methods.
#104
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I'm in the process of filling all the dings on the plane. I dressed up the landing gear a little bit. I covered the unsightly solder joint with a plywood cuff. Made out of 1/16 ply and steamed into a curved airfoil I will then blend this into the main gear with resin and baking soda. I use baking soda rather than micro balloons as a filler. Cheaper and works very well as a filler.
#105
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Couple of questions for you about the gear (I'm at the installation and soldering step now).
I reread you earlier post about cleaning and prepping the wire but now I'm curious for some more detail. I've never been very good at soldering and have ZERO experience at what amounts to structural brazing.
I reread you earlier post about cleaning and prepping the wire but now I'm curious for some more detail. I've never been very good at soldering and have ZERO experience at what amounts to structural brazing.
- Where did you get the copper wire? Fine gage solid-core insulated conductors?
- What kind of heat source did you use? I have a regular 40-watt soldering iron but I suspect it won't be able to heat the wire up enough to create a good joint.
- Finally, what kind of adhesive did you use to bond the basswood wire fairings to the gear legs?
#106
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Hi Pappy 35,
I used some fine solid core copper wire I had hanging around. You can use regular extension cord wire. Strip the insulation off and then wrap the joint. Make it tight and neat. If you are having trouble keeping the landing gear wires together you can CA them until they are wrapped. I used regular solder from Home Depot for soldering copper pipes. Remember to clean everything thoroughly. I washed with soap and water and a scrub brush, then sanded all the joints , nice and shiny. I then cleaned everything with lacquer thinner. Pre tin the wires, lots of flux . Just heat the wire until the solder flows when put against the wire. Then wrap the copper wire, more flux and solder everything together. You have to use a propane torch. 40 watt iron will never heat it up enough because the gear legs acts as a heat sink. I set the flame tip as small as it will go without going out and apply heat to the immediate area. You'll know when it's ready when the pretinned wire starts to melt. Flow the solder in and let it cool on it's own. Don't touch anything until the solder solidifies. After that scrub the joint with soap and water to get all the flux residue off. If you leave it on it will rust and corrode the wire. Hope this helps.
I glued the fairings on with 5 min. epoxy. I will then wrap everything in fiberglass cloth when I do the plane.
Thanks,
Fred
I used some fine solid core copper wire I had hanging around. You can use regular extension cord wire. Strip the insulation off and then wrap the joint. Make it tight and neat. If you are having trouble keeping the landing gear wires together you can CA them until they are wrapped. I used regular solder from Home Depot for soldering copper pipes. Remember to clean everything thoroughly. I washed with soap and water and a scrub brush, then sanded all the joints , nice and shiny. I then cleaned everything with lacquer thinner. Pre tin the wires, lots of flux . Just heat the wire until the solder flows when put against the wire. Then wrap the copper wire, more flux and solder everything together. You have to use a propane torch. 40 watt iron will never heat it up enough because the gear legs acts as a heat sink. I set the flame tip as small as it will go without going out and apply heat to the immediate area. You'll know when it's ready when the pretinned wire starts to melt. Flow the solder in and let it cool on it's own. Don't touch anything until the solder solidifies. After that scrub the joint with soap and water to get all the flux residue off. If you leave it on it will rust and corrode the wire. Hope this helps.
I glued the fairings on with 5 min. epoxy. I will then wrap everything in fiberglass cloth when I do the plane.
Thanks,
Fred
#109
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Looks great...
...I think. They're a little blurry...haha
Bought a propane torch ($20 at Home Depot) so in the next couple of days I'll either be posting pics of my finished landing gear or the remnants of my house.
...I think. They're a little blurry...haha
Bought a propane torch ($20 at Home Depot) so in the next couple of days I'll either be posting pics of my finished landing gear or the remnants of my house.
#111
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Added the bottom truss structure which is a deviation from the plan. I'm a former IMAC guy and I can't quite get that "gotta be rigid" mindset out of my head. Haven't set my house on fire yet. Wish me luck...
#113
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OK, Guys , I'm back. Didn't even get a nibble so there loss is my gain. LOL I'm finishing the plane .
I decide to fiberglass all the wood parts of the plane and fabric cover only the open areas. I use a product called Envirotex Lite to apply the glass cloth. You mix resin and hardener equally and then thin it 100% with denatured alcohol. This mixture is the consistentancy of water and goes on incredibly easy. There is no squegge, scraping or anything to remove excess resin. I spackled all the dings and dents from construction, sand the whole airframe, and then wash all the parts with denatured alcohol. I then cut glass cloth for all the pieces, so once I start I can move right along. The working time is literally hours so you don't have to rush. Very easy application. I do one side of each control surface except for the fuse. That was done with one whole piece.
I decide to fiberglass all the wood parts of the plane and fabric cover only the open areas. I use a product called Envirotex Lite to apply the glass cloth. You mix resin and hardener equally and then thin it 100% with denatured alcohol. This mixture is the consistentancy of water and goes on incredibly easy. There is no squegge, scraping or anything to remove excess resin. I spackled all the dings and dents from construction, sand the whole airframe, and then wash all the parts with denatured alcohol. I then cut glass cloth for all the pieces, so once I start I can move right along. The working time is literally hours so you don't have to rush. Very easy application. I do one side of each control surface except for the fuse. That was done with one whole piece.
#115
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Never heard of Envirotex, how did you come by using that stuff?
Looking at the web I see it comes in multiple sizes, including gallon jugs!
Very handy...
Looking at the web I see it comes in multiple sizes, including gallon jugs!
Very handy...
Last edited by Twin_Flyer; 11-29-2016 at 12:12 PM.
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Tripower455 (02-21-2020)
#117
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have a few projects this winter that i want to use fabric on so will have to give that a shot now.
If its as easy as you say and just as strong, that's a nice bonus!
What paint do you plan on using?
If its as easy as you say and just as strong, that's a nice bonus!
What paint do you plan on using?