Balsa USA Taube 90 Build Thread
01-07-2017, 04:24 PM
#1
Balsa USA Taube 90 Build Thread
Watch this space!!
The first thing to learn is to NEVER go to Rhinebeck Aerodrome Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome on that September weekend when Rhinebeck invites the Mid-Hudson RCers to come down and put on an RC show featuring only vintage airplanes. They open it to anyone who has period-scale vintage airplanes and is usually held on one of the September weekends after Labor Day. Check their site www.mhrcs.com. The problem is, you come back with too many ideas.
I almost walked away with a Balsa USA Eindecker 90 (Show Special) but got cold feet. My main reason was that I wouldn't be able to get to it till Winter anyway, and Mrs. Santa Clause is always bugging me for hints. So, why spend my money on the kit when she'll buy it for me?? So, I put both the Balsa USA Eindecker 90 and the Taube 90 on my Christmas list and told Mrs. Santa Clause to choose the one that she liked the best. She chose the 1913 Etrich Taube 90 .
I've looked all over the Internet for a Build thread on the Taube 90 but haven't been able to find one. So, after some heckling from the guys on the Balsa USA Brotherhood thread, I was goaded into starting one of my own.
I've never done a build thread before, so no promises. I'll do my best. My friend Bill S. gave me a great reference book to read while I was working up the courage to crack the kit box open. If you would like some history on the venerable Taube and all its different manifestations, you could look on Amazon or eBay to see if you could find a copy of "Taube: Dove Of War" by Col. John A DeVries. Old time RCers will recognize Col. DeVries as a great resource for aircraft history.
As an added historical note, it could be argued that this plane, while intended only for observation, was credited with the first-ever hostile aviation engagement when an Italian pilot dropped a grenade onto enemy positions at an oasis in Libya. You can read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etrich_Taube and Libya 1911: How an Italian pilot began the air war era - BBC News
We'll try to get this thread going in the next few days.
The first thing to learn is to NEVER go to Rhinebeck Aerodrome Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome on that September weekend when Rhinebeck invites the Mid-Hudson RCers to come down and put on an RC show featuring only vintage airplanes. They open it to anyone who has period-scale vintage airplanes and is usually held on one of the September weekends after Labor Day. Check their site www.mhrcs.com. The problem is, you come back with too many ideas.
I almost walked away with a Balsa USA Eindecker 90 (Show Special) but got cold feet. My main reason was that I wouldn't be able to get to it till Winter anyway, and Mrs. Santa Clause is always bugging me for hints. So, why spend my money on the kit when she'll buy it for me?? So, I put both the Balsa USA Eindecker 90 and the Taube 90 on my Christmas list and told Mrs. Santa Clause to choose the one that she liked the best. She chose the 1913 Etrich Taube 90 .
I've looked all over the Internet for a Build thread on the Taube 90 but haven't been able to find one. So, after some heckling from the guys on the Balsa USA Brotherhood thread, I was goaded into starting one of my own.
I've never done a build thread before, so no promises. I'll do my best. My friend Bill S. gave me a great reference book to read while I was working up the courage to crack the kit box open. If you would like some history on the venerable Taube and all its different manifestations, you could look on Amazon or eBay to see if you could find a copy of "Taube: Dove Of War" by Col. John A DeVries. Old time RCers will recognize Col. DeVries as a great resource for aircraft history.
As an added historical note, it could be argued that this plane, while intended only for observation, was credited with the first-ever hostile aviation engagement when an Italian pilot dropped a grenade onto enemy positions at an oasis in Libya. You can read more at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etrich_Taube and Libya 1911: How an Italian pilot began the air war era - BBC News
We'll try to get this thread going in the next few days.
Last edited by N1EDM; 03-24-2018 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Added info about the Mid-Hudson RC Club
01-07-2017, 06:03 PM
#2
My Feedback: (149)
Hey Bob, Just subscribed, so will follow your thread with great interest. Did just buy the DeVries book hoping it will also have info on the Rumpler version. Looking forward to the progress on your build. Certainly a unique choice your wife has made.
T-man49 in Alabama
T-man49 in Alabama
01-08-2017, 04:31 AM
#6
Thanks Triuimphman, JWRich & RC Art... I'll try to get on later today. The plans calls for laminated wingtips. I will get something out on those later today with photos. Having a little trouble with the camera though. I may have to replace it.
Right now I have to dig out from yesterday's storm. I'm glad that God invented snowblowers
Bob
Right now I have to dig out from yesterday's storm. I'm glad that God invented snowblowers
Bob
01-08-2017, 12:15 PM
#7
The kit comes with four sheets of plans - one for each wing half, one for the fuse, and one for the tail feathers. The manual starts with building the right wing, so I'm going to start there. I noticed two items right away:
1, There early steps emphasize that you SHOULD NOT GLUE the assembly, so I'm going to heed those warnings. The parts look like a nice egg-crate construction.
2. About halfway through the wing build, the instructions want you to stop and build a lamination for the curve of the wingtip. I thought that I would make the layup first so that the wing build would not be interrupted.
The lamination wasn't difficult to build but I had never made a lam this thick before - it's made up of 5 layers of 3/32" balsa that are about 1-1/4" wide x 13" long.
To make the lamination using the pattern on the plans, I drew a pattern onto a piece of white paper. This was taped down to a piece of 1/2" ply and covered with waxed paper. The position of the nails was spotted, pilot holes were drilled using a drill press (to keep the nail forms vertical), and Nails were driven in.
I soaked the balsa for a few minutes, blotted it dry, and laid up around the nails using yellow glue (Titebond III) and a lot of clamps. You can never have too many clamps.
This worked OK, but the finished product could have been better. Still, I think that it was adequate and any rough edges are going to be carved away anyway.
Still, I wanted to 'play' a little bit, so I got a little more elaborate. See the next post (when I get around to it).
Bob
1, There early steps emphasize that you SHOULD NOT GLUE the assembly, so I'm going to heed those warnings. The parts look like a nice egg-crate construction.
2. About halfway through the wing build, the instructions want you to stop and build a lamination for the curve of the wingtip. I thought that I would make the layup first so that the wing build would not be interrupted.
The lamination wasn't difficult to build but I had never made a lam this thick before - it's made up of 5 layers of 3/32" balsa that are about 1-1/4" wide x 13" long.
To make the lamination using the pattern on the plans, I drew a pattern onto a piece of white paper. This was taped down to a piece of 1/2" ply and covered with waxed paper. The position of the nails was spotted, pilot holes were drilled using a drill press (to keep the nail forms vertical), and Nails were driven in.
I soaked the balsa for a few minutes, blotted it dry, and laid up around the nails using yellow glue (Titebond III) and a lot of clamps. You can never have too many clamps.
This worked OK, but the finished product could have been better. Still, I think that it was adequate and any rough edges are going to be carved away anyway.
Still, I wanted to 'play' a little bit, so I got a little more elaborate. See the next post (when I get around to it).
Bob
01-08-2017, 05:02 PM
#8
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Sure wish this thread was around last month. I started my build Dec 12. It was my first build and boy did I have questions.....lol....I guess I still do. Thanks for doing a build thread. I'm on board.
01-09-2017, 10:38 AM
#11
If I could title these posts, I would entitle this one "OVERKILL". I should first confess that I am an amateur woodworker (VERY amateur) and I see some of the TV guys making shapes and forms like these using specially made forms. I thought I would try one for these tips and they came out OK. I made one up just to fool around but I want to emphasize that you don't need to go this far. I made one of these strictly for grins and giggles. It worked OK.
The lamination is 1-1/4" tall, so I made mine from 2 pieces of MDF with a center core of 1/4" ply to give me the height. Here is how it came out.
Regardless of how you go, remember to wet the wood. On my first try, I didn't do that and wound up with a cracked lamination and some springback. I've actually made four of these all totaly, strictly because I felt like fooling around. Once you have the form, it takes longer to describe the process than it takes to lay it up. I let the tips dry overnight. The 'wetted' wood had no springback by the way. The first layup, the 'dry' one had a crack in the top lamination and some springback that I was trying to avoid. The visible damage you see on the tip below is from the 'dry' method that I used, and I also did not use cauls. Now you see why.
Also, don't clamp directly to the balsa. Use a piece of 3/32" lite ply or similar stuff as a 'caul' to spread the clamping pressure. If you happen to foul these up, don't fret. Head to the LHS and pick up 3 sheets of 3/32" x 3" x 36" Class A balsa (i.e., very soft). You can cut four pieces of 1-1/4" x 13" lams out of each sheet and have stock left over.
I guess I'd better get on to doing the aileron laminations next.
Bob
The lamination is 1-1/4" tall, so I made mine from 2 pieces of MDF with a center core of 1/4" ply to give me the height. Here is how it came out.
Regardless of how you go, remember to wet the wood. On my first try, I didn't do that and wound up with a cracked lamination and some springback. I've actually made four of these all totaly, strictly because I felt like fooling around. Once you have the form, it takes longer to describe the process than it takes to lay it up. I let the tips dry overnight. The 'wetted' wood had no springback by the way. The first layup, the 'dry' one had a crack in the top lamination and some springback that I was trying to avoid. The visible damage you see on the tip below is from the 'dry' method that I used, and I also did not use cauls. Now you see why.
Also, don't clamp directly to the balsa. Use a piece of 3/32" lite ply or similar stuff as a 'caul' to spread the clamping pressure. If you happen to foul these up, don't fret. Head to the LHS and pick up 3 sheets of 3/32" x 3" x 36" Class A balsa (i.e., very soft). You can cut four pieces of 1-1/4" x 13" lams out of each sheet and have stock left over.
I guess I'd better get on to doing the aileron laminations next.
Bob
Last edited by N1EDM; 01-09-2017 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Added scope to the narration.
01-09-2017, 03:36 PM
#13
+1 for FlyerInOKC, IMHO. I just wanted to point out earlier that the method on the plan works and works well. I just wanted to fuss around, and this was one way to do it. That's the idea... that building is something that you want to do, not something that you have to do.
Also, whichever way that you go, use plenty of cauls, plenty of clamps, but don't clamp too hard! It's very easy to crush the balsa. Ask me how I know.
I should also re-emphasize the use of yellow glue instead of CA. I have done some lams before with CA on a smaller piece and the CA made things brick-hard. It was not fun to sand - I probably would have had better luck grinding that CA'd lamination on a grinding wheel.
In case you're curious, here is what the inside of the box looks like:
Also, whichever way that you go, use plenty of cauls, plenty of clamps, but don't clamp too hard! It's very easy to crush the balsa. Ask me how I know.
I should also re-emphasize the use of yellow glue instead of CA. I have done some lams before with CA on a smaller piece and the CA made things brick-hard. It was not fun to sand - I probably would have had better luck grinding that CA'd lamination on a grinding wheel.
In case you're curious, here is what the inside of the box looks like:
01-10-2017, 05:42 AM
#15
Here's a RC Report Product Review that Dick Pettit did in September, 1994. I thought that it was pretty even-handed. It just goes to show that this kit has some pretty long legs.
My kit has some nice die cutting. The parts still need a little urging from the Scalpel (see below) but the dies used to cut my kit appear to have been pretty new.
SCALPEL'S
If you guys don't mind a suggestion, here's something that I got off of a Dave Platt video. Toss out your X-Actos (I know, I still have mine too) and head up to www.ebay.com to search for Scalpels. My first netted me 100 #11 Scalpel blades and a blade holder for $9 with free S&H. The #11 scalpel blades will not fit securely into your X-Acto handle but when a blade holder is included in the purchase, why bother? I find that these are sharper than regular X-Acto blades but the best part is still that you get a nice blade for cheap $$.
Bob
My kit has some nice die cutting. The parts still need a little urging from the Scalpel (see below) but the dies used to cut my kit appear to have been pretty new.
SCALPEL'S
If you guys don't mind a suggestion, here's something that I got off of a Dave Platt video. Toss out your X-Actos (I know, I still have mine too) and head up to www.ebay.com to search for Scalpels. My first netted me 100 #11 Scalpel blades and a blade holder for $9 with free S&H. The #11 scalpel blades will not fit securely into your X-Acto handle but when a blade holder is included in the purchase, why bother? I find that these are sharper than regular X-Acto blades but the best part is still that you get a nice blade for cheap $$.
Bob
Last edited by N1EDM; 01-10-2017 at 05:44 AM.
01-10-2017, 06:55 AM
#16
I have a balsa strip cutter that uses a No. 11 scalpel blade they work great! It is a European design that uses spacers to set the width and the cutter runs inside and aluminum channel. It has advantages over the Master Airscrew if you are cutting a lot of planks all the same size for covering a fuselage. I still use the Master Airscrew when I need just one or two. Strip cutters are like razor planes and sanding bars its always nice to have several different models/sizes.
01-10-2017, 11:54 AM
#17
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Subscribed also.
I stumbled on this thread after a related google search and joined up. This kit just arrived on my doorstep yesterday, so I'll be a few days behind you. Good luck, seems to be a neat subject.
I stumbled on this thread after a related google search and joined up. This kit just arrived on my doorstep yesterday, so I'll be a few days behind you. Good luck, seems to be a neat subject.
01-10-2017, 12:41 PM
#18
Hey Bob
Thanks for posting Dick Pettit's review article from RC Report. His reviews were always honest and objective. I used to fly mine with an OS 4 stroke 90. It had a bunch of scale stuff and was pretty heavy but flew really well.
I think this model would make a great GIANT scale project.........say, about 50% larger. That would make it manageable and still able to fit in a mini van, I think.....using a 2 piece wing of course. Any one up for that? My "pie in the sky" size would be a double size Taube. I can dream, right?
Cheers,
Art
Thanks for posting Dick Pettit's review article from RC Report. His reviews were always honest and objective. I used to fly mine with an OS 4 stroke 90. It had a bunch of scale stuff and was pretty heavy but flew really well.
I think this model would make a great GIANT scale project.........say, about 50% larger. That would make it manageable and still able to fit in a mini van, I think.....using a 2 piece wing of course. Any one up for that? My "pie in the sky" size would be a double size Taube. I can dream, right?
Cheers,
Art
01-11-2017, 05:55 AM
#19
FlyerInOkc, I also have the Master Airscrew balsa stripper. I would be interested in your European version if you ever happen to fall across a link for it.
RC Art, that's why I included it - I also remember when RCM used to make reviews like that in its earlier years. So far, the only one that I was able to dig up was RCR's. If anyone knows of a similar review from RCM, let me know the issue and I will try to see if I have it among my stash.
Lucabrasi, welcome aboard. It will be interesting to compare notes.
Today I am going to laminate the TE of the left wing. If that goes OK, I will do the right. I will probably use medium CA on them because there isn't much carving or shaping to do.
While those pieces are drying on the tablesaw top, I will (shudder, OK everyone, hold on tight to something) clear off my bench. I got my new camera yesterday, so I will be using that. Should I take Before and After shots???
Bob
RC Art, that's why I included it - I also remember when RCM used to make reviews like that in its earlier years. So far, the only one that I was able to dig up was RCR's. If anyone knows of a similar review from RCM, let me know the issue and I will try to see if I have it among my stash.
Lucabrasi, welcome aboard. It will be interesting to compare notes.
Today I am going to laminate the TE of the left wing. If that goes OK, I will do the right. I will probably use medium CA on them because there isn't much carving or shaping to do.
While those pieces are drying on the tablesaw top, I will (shudder, OK everyone, hold on tight to something) clear off my bench. I got my new camera yesterday, so I will be using that. Should I take Before and After shots???
Bob
01-11-2017, 05:59 AM
#20
As for an engine, I presently have 3 choices, a Saito 82, a rebuild-but-untried OS91, and a VERY old Saito 120. The Saito 120 is very overkill, IMHO, but it weighs a ton. I would only use that as a last resort, if I needed the weight. It would take too much in fuel. That would only be a last resort, for weight only.
I will also be testing these engines to see if they will run reliably when inverted so that I won't break up the nice top to the engine compartment. I also have to be watchful of the angle of the Saito glow plug, to be sure that I can get a glow ignitor on there for starting. Comments??
I have to do some work for my RC Club from last night's meeting and get to a couple of Honey-Do's before I can commence with the 'important' things today...
Bob
I will also be testing these engines to see if they will run reliably when inverted so that I won't break up the nice top to the engine compartment. I also have to be watchful of the angle of the Saito glow plug, to be sure that I can get a glow ignitor on there for starting. Comments??
I have to do some work for my RC Club from last night's meeting and get to a couple of Honey-Do's before I can commence with the 'important' things today...
Bob
01-11-2017, 08:40 AM
#22
FlyerInOkc, I also have the Master Airscrew balsa stripper. I would be interested in your European version if you ever happen to fall across a link for it.
RC Art, that's why I included it - I also remember when RCM used to make reviews like that in its earlier years. So far, the only one that I was able to dig up was RCR's. If anyone knows of a similar review from RCM, let me know the issue and I will try to see if I have it among my stash.
Lucabrasi, welcome aboard. It will be interesting to compare notes.
Today I am going to laminate the TE of the left wing. If that goes OK, I will do the right. I will probably use medium CA on them because there isn't much carving or shaping to do.
While those pieces are drying on the tablesaw top, I will (shudder, OK everyone, hold on tight to something) clear off my bench. I got my new camera yesterday, so I will be using that. Should I take Before and After shots???
Bob
RC Art, that's why I included it - I also remember when RCM used to make reviews like that in its earlier years. So far, the only one that I was able to dig up was RCR's. If anyone knows of a similar review from RCM, let me know the issue and I will try to see if I have it among my stash.
Lucabrasi, welcome aboard. It will be interesting to compare notes.
Today I am going to laminate the TE of the left wing. If that goes OK, I will do the right. I will probably use medium CA on them because there isn't much carving or shaping to do.
While those pieces are drying on the tablesaw top, I will (shudder, OK everyone, hold on tight to something) clear off my bench. I got my new camera yesterday, so I will be using that. Should I take Before and After shots???
Bob
The manufacturer's site is here: http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Bal...--SL047_R.html
Below are the UK sites selling it
http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Bal...--SL047_R.html
http://balsamart.co.uk/store/index.p...oducts_id=2036
Happy hunting!
Mike
01-16-2017, 12:29 PM
#25
I didn't want folks to think that I had given up already. In fact I've been hard at work. I had already uploaded this reply when everything went Ka-Flooey on my Firefox browser. I'm recreating it here using Internet Explorer.
After laminating those wingtips, I proceeded with the build by reluctantly obeying Rule #1 of Mr. Murphy's innumerable laws - i.e., the one that says "Before something can be done, something else has to be done first", I decided to (1) clean my bench and (2) put on a new 'sacrificial' top replacing the worn composite ceiling tiles with the same thing. The tiles are turned upside down to use the ‘smoother’ surface to pin to. Also, (3) I put up a calendar so that I can follow the number of days/weeks/months that it takes to assemble this. That's ALL it's used for. Honest!!
https://www.amazon.com/Turner-Licens...+calendar+2017
Allow me to make one more point before we go on... I might tend to go into a little more detail than normal build threads go - but there's a reason. I realize that there are many prospective builders out there who might shy away from a project like this because of a lack of experience and exposure. I'm trying to blow away the clouds of mist and voodoo and remove as much of the 'mystery' of building as I can for them. Remember, you build a kit because you want to, not because you have to. Watching something you've built, not merely assembled, is a really great source of satisfaction.
Having said all that, I will say that this is not a beginners kit (get a SIg 4-Star 40 or a LT-40 for your first kit) but it can be built as a 3rd or 4th kit with some experience, and patience. Let me make the mistakes for you! You can also try Bruce Tharpe models at www.btemodels.com
Moving on, as if the bench cleaning was enough traumatic enough (my analyst says that there's nothing more that he can do for me) I then laid down the main spar... it was a beautiful job until I realized that I hadn't laid down any protection for the CA between the plans and the spar. So, I had to pull it all up and start over. Those of you who have also done that, raise your hand!! Wax paper and parchment paper don't seem to work anymore. However, I have managed to keep a box full of scraps of Monokote backing that does seems to work. I haven't tried Saran Wrap yet, though. Has anyone else???
Below is a shot of the lower spar finally pinned (successfully) into place with the plans protector/monokote backing under it. I used a level to square it up and pin it down. I had to drill small pilot holes in the wood spar - I jus used a straight pin in the Black & Decker Wizard to bore the holes. You can also see the small amount of shaping that I had to do on the lower spar. I did both lower spars at the same time. The same was done with the shaping of the upper spars (not shown) which was even less work. It took about 5 minutes total with a saw to knock off the main chunk of waste, and then sanded it to final shape. I also had to trim about 1/16 off the ends of the lower spars to make them match the drawing. It was hardly worth the effort. I could have fudged that inboard rib if I had to.
ISSUES SO FAR:
Here are a couple of issues that I've found with the instructions and the plans so far. These are not problematic, but it shows that reading ahead is important. Admittedly, the issues below are on the order of 'being picky',
In Step 1, page 6 it states "Each aileron consists of (3) pieces, each piece is laminated from (2) 1/8" die cut pieces." Instead of the word 'aileron', the use of the words 'Trailing Edge' or Trailing 'Edge Group' would have been more appropriate.
In Step 3 it states to use 3/32" shims under the spar. Fair enough! However, these shims are not shown on the plan itself, though other shims are. However, a newbie might not catch this and build himself into a bad corner.
Well, time to have a brewski and take a 15-minute break before I get down and cut out all the ribs.
Questions or comments???
Bob
After laminating those wingtips, I proceeded with the build by reluctantly obeying Rule #1 of Mr. Murphy's innumerable laws - i.e., the one that says "Before something can be done, something else has to be done first", I decided to (1) clean my bench and (2) put on a new 'sacrificial' top replacing the worn composite ceiling tiles with the same thing. The tiles are turned upside down to use the ‘smoother’ surface to pin to. Also, (3) I put up a calendar so that I can follow the number of days/weeks/months that it takes to assemble this. That's ALL it's used for. Honest!!
https://www.amazon.com/Turner-Licens...+calendar+2017
Allow me to make one more point before we go on... I might tend to go into a little more detail than normal build threads go - but there's a reason. I realize that there are many prospective builders out there who might shy away from a project like this because of a lack of experience and exposure. I'm trying to blow away the clouds of mist and voodoo and remove as much of the 'mystery' of building as I can for them. Remember, you build a kit because you want to, not because you have to. Watching something you've built, not merely assembled, is a really great source of satisfaction.
Having said all that, I will say that this is not a beginners kit (get a SIg 4-Star 40 or a LT-40 for your first kit) but it can be built as a 3rd or 4th kit with some experience, and patience. Let me make the mistakes for you! You can also try Bruce Tharpe models at www.btemodels.com
Moving on, as if the bench cleaning was enough traumatic enough (my analyst says that there's nothing more that he can do for me) I then laid down the main spar... it was a beautiful job until I realized that I hadn't laid down any protection for the CA between the plans and the spar. So, I had to pull it all up and start over. Those of you who have also done that, raise your hand!! Wax paper and parchment paper don't seem to work anymore. However, I have managed to keep a box full of scraps of Monokote backing that does seems to work. I haven't tried Saran Wrap yet, though. Has anyone else???
Below is a shot of the lower spar finally pinned (successfully) into place with the plans protector/monokote backing under it. I used a level to square it up and pin it down. I had to drill small pilot holes in the wood spar - I jus used a straight pin in the Black & Decker Wizard to bore the holes. You can also see the small amount of shaping that I had to do on the lower spar. I did both lower spars at the same time. The same was done with the shaping of the upper spars (not shown) which was even less work. It took about 5 minutes total with a saw to knock off the main chunk of waste, and then sanded it to final shape. I also had to trim about 1/16 off the ends of the lower spars to make them match the drawing. It was hardly worth the effort. I could have fudged that inboard rib if I had to.
ISSUES SO FAR:
Here are a couple of issues that I've found with the instructions and the plans so far. These are not problematic, but it shows that reading ahead is important. Admittedly, the issues below are on the order of 'being picky',
In Step 1, page 6 it states "Each aileron consists of (3) pieces, each piece is laminated from (2) 1/8" die cut pieces." Instead of the word 'aileron', the use of the words 'Trailing Edge' or Trailing 'Edge Group' would have been more appropriate.
In Step 3 it states to use 3/32" shims under the spar. Fair enough! However, these shims are not shown on the plan itself, though other shims are. However, a newbie might not catch this and build himself into a bad corner.
Well, time to have a brewski and take a 15-minute break before I get down and cut out all the ribs.
Questions or comments???
Bob
Last edited by N1EDM; 01-16-2017 at 12:41 PM.