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Landing gear on Top Flite Cessna Kylane

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Landing gear on Top Flite Cessna Kylane

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Old 05-31-2017, 09:20 AM
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Rentner91
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Default Landing gear on Top Flite Cessna Kylane

May 31, 2107: Hi - I'm building the Top Flite Cessna Skylane 182 kit and have run into a mystery with the main landing gear I could use help with. The manual says to use 8-32 socket cap bolts and use the same 8-32 size tap for the aluminum gear struts. This worked in that the bolts screw on fine. However, after using the prescribed drill bit through the plywood landing gear plate, the bolts slide through the plywood easily with no nuts or fasteners on the other side to keep the aluminum struts in place (against the plywood). There is no other indication in the manual on how to actually fasten the bolts to the fuse. I feel like I'm missing something basic here. As an aside, there are 2 X 8-32 nuts included in the kit (not the required 6 in case they were intended for the bolts). Anyone having completed the kit might know exactly what I'm doing wrong so any help would be great!
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:36 AM
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Are you talking about this plane?
Top Flite Cessna 182 Skylane Airplane Kit

If you are, then you must be talking about pages 32 and 33 of this manual:
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It's been a while since I built this plane, but if I remember correctly, the intent here is for the landing gear to go BELOW the plywood, so when you thread the bolts from the top you actually sandwich the plywood with the landing gear from below and washers and bolts from above. Remember, you actually cut threads on the landing gear for a reason.

Hope this helps.
Rafael
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:49 PM
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Rentner91
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Thanks Rafael!

Yes, it's the Skylane 182 Gold (kit) edition, although I think the in the manual it's page 30 (attached pic). I can see your point that if the bolt is screwed in from the top side i.e. into the plywood and through the aluminum-threaded struts on the bottom, it would indeed sandwich the plywood and hold. It just seemed odd that the socket head would be seated against the wood and not the aluminum. If there were washers specified (there were none in the manual) it would make sense. I think that's what you are saying, yes? If that interpretation is correct, it would help solve my "mystery"!

Again, much appreciated! It sounds like you had experience with the plane after the build, so any practical tips not in the manual would be great.
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Old 06-01-2017, 01:40 PM
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Part of the "mystery" is that the manual is talking about _top_ while the fuselage is inverted. When these steps are finished, everything will become the bottom as the fuselage is removed from the worktable and placed upright. I checked last night, the landing gear indeed is bolted from inside the cockpit straight into wood with the metal leg below the plywood (when the airplane is right-side-up). I do not remember if it had washers or not. Is not a bad idea to include the washers.

Sadly it was a long time ago when I built this airplane. there's very little that I remember as far as pointers. I do remember wanting to keep an opening to inspect the rudder and elevator connections at the tail near the tail cone. So i made an access "panel" by screwing instead of gluing the block that goes on the tail just in front of the tail cone. Also, depending on the engine that you will use, get a good quality fuel tank. I used a YS engine which will pressurize the fuel tank. After a few years, the fuel tank split at the seams and spilled fuel everywhere. I had buried the tank as described on the instructions. I had to remove quite a bit of the top of the fuselage to gain access to the tank.

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Old 06-02-2017, 05:43 AM
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Understood and thanks Rafael! It's all clear now. With your last comment in mind, I'll research a better gas tank than I have on hand (Dubro). It does concern me that the tank will be permanently encased by the sheeting. I'll noodle on whether to proactively install a removable panel in both places you reference.Again, very much appreciated!
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Old 06-02-2017, 08:18 AM
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I added washers under the screw heads on my 182 gear. I had a pet peeve about the fuel tank sitting sideways so I used 3 each 4 oz. tanks in series. I used the antenna set from the 182 ARF to hide the wing bolts and permanently installed the rear of the wing center section to get a better transition and tight fit. I have made some other modifications as well. Last year I took a break from the 182 project to build a VK Models Fokker DR-1 but I will go back to Cessna when the DR-1 is finished. I haven't been crazy about the stock plastic cowl and cone so last year I bought a fiberglass cowling and tail cone from Fiberglass Specialties. I am doing CAP livery so I won't be using wheel pants.

Mike
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:37 AM
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Hi Mike - good insights. I wondered about the sideways fuel tank as well, but will probably stick with one unit. If you have any models that are considered high-end i.e. will stand up to the test of time, that would be great. I'm using a DLE 20RA gass engine, btw. I considered the Fiberglass Specialties option for the stock cowl, but wanted to get to that stage before paying the extra $. Attached are some pics of my build. I fiberglassed the wing already and will start the fuse sheeting this weekend. In one pic the landing gear bolts are still against the landing plates (instead of through from the other side).
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:47 AM
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I highly recommend the Robart nose gear for the 182 it looks great! I didn't like the stock cowling because it was three pieces (if you don't count the air outlets) and flimsy. I am inserting the reflectors for a couple of cheap single "AAA" flashlights and LED landing lights with the microswitch connected to a servo "Y"ed into the flaps. I probably ought to think about going to 6 volt battery pack with 8 servos onboard. I also have a full set of navigation lights on a same stand alone single cell LiPo the landing lights use. The radio gear has an exclusive on the receiver battery. Remote glowplug connection radio and light switches and the light battery are all hidden behind the luggage door on the left side. I have a fueling valve on the bottom of the firewall so I don't need under the hood. Power is a Super Tigre .75 with Top Flite muffler and manifold.

I have two more similar projects waiting in the wings to be built from plans and short kits. The Uravitch C-195 Businessliner (59" span) and the Caddell A36 Bonanza (1/4.5 scale with Robart retracts). They are competing with a Ryan SC-W (1/5th scale 84"span) and a 1/4 scale Globe Swift to see who gets built next. The Ryan has the edge right now it will have a polished aluminum covering of AeroFoil.

Here are some photos for your amusement.
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Old 10-24-2017, 12:41 PM
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It's been a while since posting to this thread, but I've made a lot more progress with my build. Thank you to the last contributor, as I bought the Robart nose gear after reading so much support for the upgrade. If anyone is following this thread, I do have a question regarding servos. For this size plane carrying a DLE-20RA gasser, what size / type of servo should I use? I was going to reuse some older Futaba S3004 analogs, but the torque ranges between 40-50 and I'm not sure that will hold up to the wind pressure. I'm not super concerned about speed, but a BB servo's would probably hold us much longer. Thanks for any ideas in advance.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:09 PM
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52larry52
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I have a 20+ yr. old T.F. 182 that has been flown with Futaba S3004 servos on all control surfaces, using a 4.8v RX battery without issues. I am currently restoring that plane and upgrading to 2.4 radio and a 6.0v RX battery and will be staying with the S3004 servos. The S3004 servo is rated @44.4 in oz torque with a 4.8v battery, and 56.9 in oz with a 6.0v battery. For scale flying the S3004 will work fine. If you want more torque for aerobatics, the S3010 servo will give you 90.3 in oz with a 6.0 battery. BTY, both S3004 and S3010 are BB servos.
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:14 AM
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Thanks 52Larry52. I'm keeping several of the S3004 servos, but I did buy a couple of Hitec HS-77BB's, as they are low profile. I couldn't line up the futaba ones (1/42" in height) with the pre-cut aileron holes in the hatch covers. Rather than make the cut-outs larger, I bought the low profile servos to align with the servo arm cut-outs. I'm now in the process of finish painting most of the plane. I also decided to turn the glare panel and attached windshield into a removable piece. I want access to the area below. I still need to configure a choke mechanism for the DLE 20RA gasser. Ultimately, the plane will have coast guard trim like the one shown attached as an image.
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Old 11-07-2017, 02:44 PM
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Rentner91, Ah yes, I see your removable panel below the windshield (ft. canopy). Good idea! You will need to add some small screws on the ft cabin posts to attach the windshield. On the one I am restoring I have three small buttonhead screws on each side for windshield mounting with no glue holding it in place, just the screws. For access I have stopped gluing on canopys whenever possible. The Coast guard trim will look great. I considered that trim for my project but instead went with a white and black USAF T-41 trim ( I know, a T-41 is a 172 airframe and this is a 182. SO WHAT...artistic license. ) You're getting there! It looks good.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:55 AM
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Getting closer - I'm finding that the final phases of this build seem to be the most time consuming. Combining the engine cowl with three pieces, cutting out clearance for the engine and ensuring that the prop is clear took a good part of the weekend! Need to fix some paint on the wing that peeled off with the Frog tape I used during the process. I used the wrong primer, but it seems to be holding reasonably well. I used epoxy finish paint sprayed on with a gun/compressor. Attached are a couple of picks with my Coast Guard finishing. Looks pretty cool - hope it ultimately flies!
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:03 AM
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I built the stock cowling and didn't care for it so I bought a fiberglass cowling and tail cone to replace the stock items. I'm going with CAP livery which doesn't have wheel pants so I'll leave those off.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:01 AM
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I bought the Robart nose gear and made the tail cone from balsa - shaped it with a sander, hollowed some of it out and it came out great - only took an hour or so. I'll stick with the stock nose cowl for now, especially since I had to dremel so much for my DLE 20RA. The think cowling material made it fairly easy.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:19 AM
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I bought the Robart gear too, to me it's a must have for this airplane.
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Old 01-02-2018, 12:54 PM
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Not sure if anyone is following this aging thread, but I'm uploading a pic from the weekend showing my almost complete Cessna. I'm a little concerned by the CG. Although the prop, nuts, spinner, flaps and a few smaller items aren't installed yet, the plane barely stands upright without falling slowly on it's tail. I'm surprised by this apparent tail-heaviness, since my DLE 20RA gasser weighs more than the recommended 2-stroke or .95 OS 4-stroke. CG is supposed to be forward of the main landing gear at 4" behind the wing root. I guess I'll just finish up and do a real test in a couple of weeks.
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Old 01-02-2018, 03:32 PM
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All you can do is a final assembly then check it. Just don't fly it until you know where you CGis at. It's not worth getting into a hurry only to crash because you're tail heavy.
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Old 07-30-2018, 03:00 PM
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Default top flite cessna skylane 182

HI
this is mike and I am looking for a set of plans for top flite cessna skylane 182
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Old 07-31-2018, 05:58 AM
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Hi Mike,

My plans are pretty tattered and some balsa part outlines are missing including the tail - I'm happy to send you a copy of what I have, but I would need to use several 8X11" sheets in the copy machine. You would then tape them together to maintain scale. I need to hold onto the originals in the event I have to rebuild components. You might have better luck finding someone else who can send you their originals.

Cheers -
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Old 07-31-2018, 06:14 AM
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Hey Mike what part of the plans do you need?
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Old 08-01-2018, 09:41 AM
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HI
Mike here thank you for responding.
Do you have a electronic version of the plans?
If you do could you please email that to me.
thank you very much
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Old 08-01-2018, 10:57 AM
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Mine is the strictly IC powered plan. Sorry I can't help.
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:49 AM
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HI
Mike here thank you for responding.
Do you have a electronic version of the plans?
If you do could you please email that to me.
thank you very much
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:10 PM
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Hi Mike - all I could do is take digital camera pics of the plans. I'd need your email address.
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