Calrl Goldberg Tiger 60 Build
#252
Thread Starter
In Photo #1 note the two holes that I drilled on the stabilizer mount. After, carefully measuring to make sure that the stab was just in the right location, I drilled two 1/8" holes for short dowels that will locate the stab in the exact position each time I have it removed while building.
Photos 8-9 show the 1/2" dowel hard points that I like to add beneath any control horn. This prevents the balsa from being crushed when the horn is secured. (Epoxy was used to secure them in place.)
Note- Photos 4-7 the tail has not been glued down at this point. The dorsal fin, stabilizers, elevator and rudder will get covered first before permanently securing them into position.
Photos 8-9 show the 1/2" dowel hard points that I like to add beneath any control horn. This prevents the balsa from being crushed when the horn is secured. (Epoxy was used to secure them in place.)
Note- Photos 4-7 the tail has not been glued down at this point. The dorsal fin, stabilizers, elevator and rudder will get covered first before permanently securing them into position.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-12-2018 at 08:44 AM.
#253
Thread Starter
#256
Thread Starter
#257
Vince that's a sad story and one I've heard before, I'm thankful we don't have mice right here and they will raise cane on RV wiring also. I think if you store your planes off the floor you won't half to worry about that again.
More examples of your very nice work, your almost there.
Leroy
More examples of your very nice work, your almost there.
Leroy
#258
Thread Starter
Thanks, Leroy. Consider yourself lucky that you don't have mice problems...I ordered my rolls of covering yesterday, so it won't be long before this Tiger has a new look!
#259
Thread Starter
No I haven't abandoned you. I have been working on my Tiger, but nothing picture worthy. All of the tubes/sleeves have been installed in the fuselage for the 4-40 rods that will move the rudder and elevator.
In the mail today I received my covering, you'll get a peek at the colors that I chose. Tomorrow I will order the spinner from Tru-Turn. That's it for now!
True Red #866
Bright Yellow #872
White #870
Deep Blue #873
In the mail today I received my covering, you'll get a peek at the colors that I chose. Tomorrow I will order the spinner from Tru-Turn. That's it for now!
True Red #866
Bright Yellow #872
White #870
Deep Blue #873
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-15-2018 at 03:05 PM.
#260
No I haven't abandoned you. I have been working on my Tiger, but nothing picture worthy. All of the tubes/sleeves have been installed in the fuselage for the 4-40 rods that will move the rudder and elevator.
In the mail today I received my covering, you'll get a peek at the colors that I chose. Tomorrow I will order the spinner from Tru-Turn. That's it for now!
True Red #866
Bright Yellow #872
White #870
Deep Blue #873
In the mail today I received my covering, you'll get a peek at the colors that I chose. Tomorrow I will order the spinner from Tru-Turn. That's it for now!
True Red #866
Bright Yellow #872
White #870
Deep Blue #873
I got some covering, too. Two, ten meter, rolls of Solartex were delivered. They're for a future project.
#261
Thread Starter
Wow, you're lucky to have found Solartex Tom. It's disappearing fast! What project you got coming up Tom? I always enjoy your threads, except I always gain a few pounds...lol
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-16-2018 at 03:47 AM.
#262
The Solartex is for a Hostetler Fairchild 24.http://www.hostetlersplans.com/Plans...irchild-1.html I don't know when the project will begin. When it does, I'll do a build thread/BBQ thread.
#264
My Feedback: (6)
I'm starting to wonder if we'll have any brand of covering available the way things are going! The big suppliers bet on the fast buck easy to fly stuff that doesn't require buying into the hobby and doesn't hold the attention for any length of time. They have killed the hobby and in turn blew their own brains out as far as having a lasting business.
#265
I purchased the plans, fiberglass parts, engine (G-62) and landing gear years ago, when Wendell came out with his design.
The build may take a year, but that's OK.
Here's a pic of my IKON Fairchild.
#266
Thread Starter
I remember when you built that Tom. That was a pretty plane,what happened to it if you don't mind me asking? I'll look forward to your new project.
I'm getting all the small things done that are still on my punch list before the covering starts. In Photos 1-2, the glass cloth (shown) has been applied on the elevator joiner, a second coat of resin will follow.
Photo 3- The engine firewall has been primed and lightly sanded in preparation for the white epoxy paint I will spray on it. I will give the primer a couple of more days to dry before I do this.
The inside forward section of the fuselage has been fuel proofed using thinned out Finishing Resin.
I'm getting all the small things done that are still on my punch list before the covering starts. In Photos 1-2, the glass cloth (shown) has been applied on the elevator joiner, a second coat of resin will follow.
Photo 3- The engine firewall has been primed and lightly sanded in preparation for the white epoxy paint I will spray on it. I will give the primer a couple of more days to dry before I do this.
The inside forward section of the fuselage has been fuel proofed using thinned out Finishing Resin.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-16-2018 at 02:11 PM.
#267
Thread Starter
It's amazing how much time it takes just to finish-up the small details... The fuselage is now just about completed, all that's left is to spray the white on the firewall and she's ready for covering.
Here's a good tip. Run a tap through all of your blind nuts either before or after they are installed. There's nothing worse during assembly, finding that you can't thread your cap head screws in easily. Often, they are forced threaded, causing unexpected damage and problems. So, if you don't already have taps for 2-56 and 4-40 you really need to buy them. (This is more critical of the 2-56 and 4-40 tee nuts, the larger sizes don't seem to have this problem.)
I thought you may be interested in how and where I installed the remote receiver. (I'm re-using the receiver from my Spacewalker) It's mounted right behind the top of Former B, and is held in place with hook and loop tape. The wooden mount is glued to the Former and adds further strength to it. The receiver can be easily removed should the need arise in the future. The hook and loop tape also does a good job of isolating vibrations from the air-frame, so foam isn't necessary. To keep the antennas from moving and changing position, I slipped them into two plastic sleeves that have been secured to the mount. Note the rubber grommet at the base of the Former to prevent any chafing of the receiver wire.
Here's a good tip. Run a tap through all of your blind nuts either before or after they are installed. There's nothing worse during assembly, finding that you can't thread your cap head screws in easily. Often, they are forced threaded, causing unexpected damage and problems. So, if you don't already have taps for 2-56 and 4-40 you really need to buy them. (This is more critical of the 2-56 and 4-40 tee nuts, the larger sizes don't seem to have this problem.)
I thought you may be interested in how and where I installed the remote receiver. (I'm re-using the receiver from my Spacewalker) It's mounted right behind the top of Former B, and is held in place with hook and loop tape. The wooden mount is glued to the Former and adds further strength to it. The receiver can be easily removed should the need arise in the future. The hook and loop tape also does a good job of isolating vibrations from the air-frame, so foam isn't necessary. To keep the antennas from moving and changing position, I slipped them into two plastic sleeves that have been secured to the mount. Note the rubber grommet at the base of the Former to prevent any chafing of the receiver wire.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-19-2018 at 01:59 AM.
#269
Thread Starter
Thank you Roger, building a Tiger be it a 60 or its smaller brother is a fun and relatively quick build. The changes that I made to mine are within anyone's building ability, so don't be intimidated by making changes to yours to suite your needs...and you're right about the guys following along, they're the best! I look forward to seeing pictures of yours!
#270
Thread Starter
The Raw Finished Tiger Part 1
The entire fuselage has been sanded and all of the things left on my punch list have been completed. Tomorrow I will bring everything to my shop at school and paint will be sprayed on the firewall and all of the wood will be gently blown off with shop air to rid the parts from wood dust that will effect the covering to adhere properly.
I thought that these photos may be helpful for anyone wishing to reproduce any of the changes I made before the covering goes on...
The entire fuselage has been sanded and all of the things left on my punch list have been completed. Tomorrow I will bring everything to my shop at school and paint will be sprayed on the firewall and all of the wood will be gently blown off with shop air to rid the parts from wood dust that will effect the covering to adhere properly.
I thought that these photos may be helpful for anyone wishing to reproduce any of the changes I made before the covering goes on...
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-19-2018 at 01:43 AM.
#272
Thread Starter
The Raw Finished Tiger Part 2
In Photo 2, note the 2-56 tee nut that is epoxied into place. I drilled a 1/8" hole through the base of the rudder shown in Photo 3 to allow a short piece of threaded rod to pass through, the end will have a 2-56 ball link to engage with the tiller arm of the tail wheel.
All that is left to prepare are the two wing panels.
In Photo 2, note the 2-56 tee nut that is epoxied into place. I drilled a 1/8" hole through the base of the rudder shown in Photo 3 to allow a short piece of threaded rod to pass through, the end will have a 2-56 ball link to engage with the tiller arm of the tail wheel.
All that is left to prepare are the two wing panels.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-19-2018 at 01:45 AM.
#273
Just a word of caution:
Depending on the compressor system, you could find the air is full of moisture. This could be a real issue if there is water in the system as it can cause the wood to swell. If you have access to the compressor's tank, pressure regulator and water separators, I would check them for water BEFORE you blow off the sanding dust that might be there. I used to be a compressor repair tech and have seen how a tank can get a lot of water in it just through the humidity in the air that is forced out under pressure
Depending on the compressor system, you could find the air is full of moisture. This could be a real issue if there is water in the system as it can cause the wood to swell. If you have access to the compressor's tank, pressure regulator and water separators, I would check them for water BEFORE you blow off the sanding dust that might be there. I used to be a compressor repair tech and have seen how a tank can get a lot of water in it just through the humidity in the air that is forced out under pressure
#274
Thread Starter
Your caution is well warranted Hydro. My shop air however has water separators which I tend to regularly as well as draining any water that will have accumulated in the bottom of the air tank. Thanks for the heads up, as many would learn about this problem the hard way...