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1/12 scale P-47 Lazerworks Short Kit

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:53 PM
  #1  
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Default 1/12 scale P-47 Lazerworks Short Kit

Well I've smeared my third Arsenal VG-33 across the landscape one to many times. For a small airplane, the Arsenal had a fly on rails quality that encouraged ridiculously low passes. This last one was rebuilt from parts of at least three planes. It was getting a little heavy and the last hand launch missed getting airborne by just that much. I like to keep a small glow airplane on hand. They are relatively cheap, fun to fly and convenient to toss in the car for that quick flying session while out running errands. Eddie at Lazerworks had previously cut a Morfis P-40 for me and I was considering another but I don't have my plans anymore and Gus Morfis plans are becoming scarce. A set of P-47 plans was available. It was also on my someday list and Eddie cuts a kit for it as well so a P-47 it is. Eddie also vacuforms a cowling for the plane and he provided one of those as well.
A word about the Morfis plans. They show the formers, ribs and all of the basic structures but I would say that the radio installation is more of a general suggestion rather than a specific direction. Based on the location of the radio and servos it seems that this is intended to have a removable wing but there isn't any indication of a method for setting this up. I will address this in the course of the build. It will be the standard dowel in the front, plastic bolt in the back. I am changing the wing from a sheeted front and cap stripped rear to a fully sheeted wing. The original design calls for a standard servo with flexible pushrods to the ailerons. Again the plans do not show a lot of detail on this. Compared to when this plan was published in 1993, servos are more powerful for a given size and much less expensive. I will be putting a mini servo in each wing panel. The ribs as cut by Lazerworks have a nice hole in the first five ribs that is just the right size and location for running servo extensions. Eddie as also added building tabs that set the angle of the ribs and a notch in the nose of the rib for a bit of stick that helps with rib alignment and provides extra material for attaching the leading edge. I will be covering the plane with Kwik-Poly and 3/4 ounce fiberglass cloth. If one is careful it produces a durable finish that is fuel proof and no heavier than iron on covering. Since this will be a hand launched plane, having a durable finish will count for something.
The wing ribs and spars framed up really quickly. I'm going to partially sheet the upper surface to help with keeping the wing rigid while I add the leading and trailing edges. I will probably power the plan with a .25 although I have seen references to using as much as a .32.
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Old 01-26-2018, 06:29 PM
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Well the build was moving right along. I got the upper half of both wings sheeted. As a side note, you might want to pass on the extra hard sheet of 1/16 balsa in the big box-o-wood in favor of something a little softer when you sheet the leading edge. Unfortunately the build is going to have to go on hiatus for a few days. After several days of trying to trap it I finally had to kill a skunk that had taken up residence in my shop building. The stench is so thick you could cut it with a knife. I bagged and dragged the skunk and sprayed down the area with skunk smell remover but it is probably going to be a few days before I can go into the shop without a respirator.
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Old 01-29-2018, 06:00 AM
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Lookin' good so far. Nice to have 'tabs' for alignment purposes. Should be a fun airplane to keeps your fingers happy.
I just had Eddie cut me some ribs for a old Sig 450 kit that I have. First time I used him. Good quality and communication he was, probably use him again if the need arises.

Mike
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:53 AM
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Thanks, Eddie is local to me and I have been doing business with him since before laser cutting was a thing. The smell in the shop is slowly dissipating. I should get back to the build in a day or two.
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:53 PM
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The smell in the shop has diminished somewhat. Now it only smells like the restroom in a mustelid bordello. So, one more into the fray. Half of the wing sheeting is done and I am adding some shear webs. I suppose that you could put the webs between the spars and I think that is what the plans show.It isn't labeled as such but there is a line drawn down the middle of the spar. It may not be as elegant but gluing the shear webs to the side of the spars has always worked okay for me. I didn't put a web on the two outer bays. This is a low stress area.
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Old 02-02-2018, 07:11 PM
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It is probably time to start thinking through details such as how the wing will attach.The plan are a little thin on this particular detail. Aside from mounting a 3/32's doubler for a wing seat there isn't really any detail on how the wing is mounted. If you built the plan strictly as shown on the plans you would just have to seal everything up in the fuselage as there is no provision for any sort of hatch or removable wing. There is no indication of wing incidence on the plans. Since it is a symmetrical wing I expect that I can go with 0 or 1 degree of positive incidence. I am going to go with a standard dowel in the front and bolt in the back wing mount. I will need a couple more formers as I build a separate belly pan and I will post tracings of the formers. This looks to be a good design but it could benefit from some more detail on the plans. A significant change I am making is dual wing servos. A mini servo fits within the wing just fine and I used the holes that Eddie cut in the wing ribs to mount a paper tube for the servo leads. I presume that was his intention in making the holes.
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:29 PM
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Making a little more progress on the wings. I've got them sheeted and set up the space for the wing servos. It is about ready for the trailing edge.
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Old 02-06-2018, 04:47 AM
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Lookin' good so far. Looks like Eddie did his job well on the kit. Here's a fun idea, since your dealing with skunks in the shop, you ought to call your plane, "Stinky" and get a small skunk image on the cowl, then you would have your own unique nose art.

Mike
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Old 02-06-2018, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RACE 66 View Post
Lookin' good so far. Looks like Eddie did his job well on the kit. Here's a fun idea, since your dealing with skunks in the shop, you ought to call your plane, "Stinky" and get a small skunk image on the cowl, then you would have your own unique nose art.

Mike
Lol, the idea for the airplane art did cross my mind. I did a quick search but aside from Lockheed references there are only a few examples of skunk artwork out there on the net. Just have to make up my own.
I've always been pleased with the stuff Eddie cuts for me. The biggest challenge with this kit is adjusting for things that just aren't shown on the plans. For me this is a keep it simple sport plane but the envelope is big enough to take advantage of a lot of the advances in servos and accessories that have come along over the last 25 years. It would take some major redesign like moving wing spars but e-flight retracts would probably fit and there is enough room in the fuselage to add a rudder servo.
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:39 AM
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Take a look at these Matt for images:
https://clipartpig.com/skunk-cartoon-image-363658

Skunk Clipart Black And White | Clipart Panda - Free Clipart Images
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:05 AM
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I should have said examples of actual nose art. You are correct that skunk art isn't hard to find at all.
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:10 AM
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Thumbs up Couple More...

Tony Starcer - Nose Artist - 91st BG - Scroll down to 'skunks' pretty good images

I am determined to get you a 'SKUNK' !

Then you won't have an excuse !
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:29 PM
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Chuckle, I'm probably going to go with something like that except that I will call it "Big Stink." I'll probably try a waterslide decal and then coat it with catalyzed clear. Right now I'm fiddling with the F3 former which sits at the leading edge of the wing. The former matches the plans but it seems to be about 3/16ths too narrow. This gives a noticeable hourglass shape to the front section of the fuselage. Luckily, I noticed it as I was measuring for the first piece of wood for the wing doubler. I still need to move the photos from my phone to the computer but I mostly have the wing all framed up and together. It still needs quite a bit of sanding but it is far enough along that I can use it to check the wing saddle. I've been pondering on how to accurately locate the wing. The plans show a wing position but no indication of the incidence and there are no datum lines for the wing on the plan. As I was typing it occurred to me that the easiest thing to do is build a box jig to locate the wing. The box can sit in side the lower half of the fuselage while it is framed up.The fuselage builds upside down on the plans. The jig can locate the wing and guide the cutouts in the wing saddle and then come out when the fuselage comes off of the plans. Thanks for the reply Race 66,if you hadn't given me something to reply to, I probably wouldn't have thought any more about the airplane until tomorrow and the idea might not have occurred to me
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mgnostic View Post
Well I've smeared my third Arsenal VG-33 across the landscape one to many times. For a small airplane, the Arsenal had a fly on rails quality that encouraged ridiculously low passes. This last one was rebuilt from parts of at least three planes. It was getting a little heavy and the last hand launch missed getting airborne by just that much. I like to keep a small glow airplane on hand. They are relatively cheap, fun to fly and convenient to toss in the car for that quick flying session while out running errands. Eddie at Lazerworks had previously cut a Morfis P-40 for me and I was considering another but I don't have my plans anymore and Gus Morfis plans are becoming scarce. A set of P-47 plans was available. It was also on my someday list and Eddie cuts a kit for it as well so a P-47 it is. Eddie also vacuforms a cowling for the plane and he provided one of those as well.
A word about the Morfis plans. They show the formers, ribs and all of the basic structures but I would say that the radio installation is more of a general suggestion rather than a specific direction. Based on the location of the radio and servos it seems that this is intended to have a removable wing but there isn't any indication of a method for setting this up. I will address this in the course of the build. It will be the standard dowel in the front, plastic bolt in the back. I am changing the wing from a sheeted front and cap stripped rear to a fully sheeted wing. The original design calls for a standard servo with flexible pushrods to the ailerons. Again the plans do not show a lot of detail on this. Compared to when this plan was published in 1993, servos are more powerful for a given size and much less expensive. I will be putting a mini servo in each wing panel. The ribs as cut by Lazerworks have a nice hole in the first five ribs that is just the right size and location for running servo extensions. Eddie as also added building tabs that set the angle of the ribs and a notch in the nose of the rib for a bit of stick that helps with rib alignment and provides extra material for attaching the leading edge. I will be covering the plane with Kwik-Poly and 3/4 ounce fiberglass cloth. If one is careful it produces a durable finish that is fuel proof and no heavier than iron on covering. Since this will be a hand launched plane, having a durable finish will count for something.
The wing ribs and spars framed up really quickly. I'm going to partially sheet the upper surface to help with keeping the wing rigid while I add the leading and trailing edges. I will probably power the plan with a .25 although I have seen references to using as much as a .32.
Hi Matt, I was talking to Eddie at lazer works today about my Kavalier and how to set up the correct dihedral angle on my root ribs so i can glue the left and right half's of my wing together and it was alittle confusing to say the least but I think I got the jest of what he was telling me to do. I am in the process of finishing the filling of areas on my A-RAY's wing and its getting close that maybe I can cover this bad boy this weekend. But I hope to do a little fly out at the club field.
c-ya
Michael Johnston
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Old 02-09-2018, 09:02 AM
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Hi Mike,
Good luck on the Kavalier. Eddie will keep you going in the right direction. Sig kits usually have pretty good directions. Did it not include a dihedral guage? It's easy to miss on a lot of kits since it is just a rectangle of wood with the necessary angle cut on one side.
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Old 02-09-2018, 11:56 AM
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Hi Matt, The dihedral gauge is in the assembly manual that came with my Kit. The problem I had was it was very vague on how to set the correct angle which I went to visit Eddie and ask him for help!.He gave me an idea which I am working on right now. I was hoping to go flying this after noon with this great weather but the wind seems a little strong right now! TTL Michael
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:05 PM
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The wing halves are joined and the trailing edge is trimmed to shape. The plans call for 3/8ths inch thickness for the trailing edge but 1/4 inch is really a better fit in terms of thickness. The plans call for 2&3/8ths inch dihedral under each wing tip which seems a lot until you look at a real P-47. I used some left over trailing edge stock between the wing halves to get the desired angle. I think the fuselage is going to be more of a challenge then the wing. The F-3 former isn't as rounded as the F2 firewall and the F4 midway through the wing mount. As I described in an earlier post it give a bottle neck to the front part of the fuselage just ahead of the wing. I cut a new F3 to give the fuselage the desired roundness and laminated it to the original F3. I kept the original F3 because I wanted the plywood as a part of the front wing mount. The F3 former was cut according to the plans but either the plans distorted during reproduction or F3 just wasn't lofted properly.
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:53 AM
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This photo illustrates the changes made to the F3 former.
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Old 02-11-2018, 09:04 AM
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A few shots of the fuselage. I improvised a fence on my scroll saw and used it to rip a couple of 3/32 sheets into 5/16 wide strips for planking. Planking isn't a particularly speedy process but it seems to be producing a relatively smooth fuselage with nice compound curves. Pretty quickly the fuselage gets rigid enough to handle off of the board.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:36 PM
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Missed a few days of posting due to a computer crash but we are up and running. I wrapped up planking the fuselage. Including the wing saddle doubler there are 53 strips of wood planking the fuselage. Gluing that many strips but it seems to help with the compound curves. There is a practical limit but the smaller the strip, the smoother the fuselage. The next step will be sanding. I've also been sanding the wing and will be putting a little filler her and there where needed. Even though the fuselage isn't closed up yet I am going to lay down a layer of 3/4 ounce fiberglass to firm everything up to assist with cutting out the wing saddle. As I have said, the plans don't show much about how to do this so I am going to make a template That will measure up the side of the inverted fuselage from the centerline. It should get the wing close to the position shown on the plans and it will at least be symmetrical.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:29 AM
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The bottom half of the fuselage has one layer of 3/4 ounce fiberglass and I realized too late that I hadn't taken a photo before I started cutting. There was lots of sanding to get it smooth along with some filler that you can see in the photos. I copied the lines from the plans to make a template for locating the wing cut out. This line was marked on the fuselage and then cut out. You can see in one photo the cut out outlines of the wing. This is definitely a measure twice, cut once moment. It is easier to deal with F4 if you pre-cut it partway through early in the building process. The belly pan will need to be securely glued to the bottom of the wing and will get another layer of fiberglass since this airplane will be doing a belly landing every time it flies. As an aside, the fuselage is big enough for a rudder servo and it wouldn't be terribly difficult to put landing gear blocks in the wing if that were your preference.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:34 AM
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Lots of red sanding dust because putty is heavy. There is actually less red putty that it seems because it is a skim coat over the lightweight spackling that is used for most of the filling. The fiberglass will add a lot of strength to the dihedral joint but a little dab of carbon fiber on the spars doesn't hurt.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:45 AM
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Starting to glass the bottom of the wing. I really like Kwik Poly. It has a low viscosity and wets out the fiberglass easily. It sands easily and takes paint well. I've also used it to make small castings. The downside is that it has a really short pot life. When it is spread out on a surface it stays fluid long enough to work with it such as blotting up any excess or smoothing out a bubble. I usually mix up about 1/2 ounce at a time. You can get it from veterinary supply houses but I buy it direct from the company. They have always been really pleasant to work with.

Sorry about the orientation on the photos. I'm still getting all of the settings organized to my satisfaction.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:57 PM
  #24  
mgnostic
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I threw down with a couple of wing mounts this afternoon. These aren't specified on the plans so I just measured out some 1/4 inch play and sanded and whittled it to a tight fit to the wing saddle area and epoxied it in to place. The wing mount blanks are trapezoidal with a fore and aft and a top to bottom taper. There is a fore and aft 4-40 screw holding the wing. In one photo the wing appears to be out of alignment but it just isn't snugged up. I thought about doing a front peg in the wing and could have if I had been more proactive while planking the fuselage. It would need to have a couple of additional formers to slant the belly pan back toward the tail so that the wing could slide in. In the third photo you can see the original F3 backed by the new larger F3. The original as drawn on the plans had too much taper. This is a pretty straightforward build and even with the time taken to plank the fuselage and sort out some details it is going pretty quickly.
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:00 AM
  #25  
mkjohnston
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Hi Matt, Your construction looks great! I havent got far with my Kavalier yet as I started covering my A-Ray Fuselege with monokote a few days ago!
take care
Michael Johnston
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