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Klass Kote painting. Brush or spray

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Old 06-27-2016, 03:18 PM
  #1  
phakur
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Default Klass Kote painting. Brush or spray

Ok. I admit I am not the greatest painter in the world, either brush or spray, but I manage

I do own a fairly good air brush and a low cost HVLP Wagner system

The question is. Should I spray or brush KK paint over a fiberglass finish

Thanks

Larry

Last edited by phakur; 06-27-2016 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Mia spelling
Old 06-28-2016, 03:40 AM
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R8893
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I get much better results spraying. I use a touchup gun and more thinner than recommended. My mix is 1 part A, 1 part B, and 2 parts thinner. For the thinner I use about half a part of Klass Kote reducer and the balance Klean Strip lacquer thinner from Walmart.
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:55 AM
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RCFlyerDan
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My vote is to also spray! KK is a very heavy paint. I quit using it, since it is an epoxy paint. I have since switched over to PPG/Omni paints with much better results with a base coat and clear. KK takes a while to dry too, so, if you are doing it in the garage or outside, make sure you have a bug free zone for the first couple hours of drying. PPG paints dry almost instantly, so less chances of bugs ruining your finish.
Old 06-28-2016, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RCFlyerDan
My vote is to also spray! KK is a very heavy paint. I quit using it, since it is an epoxy paint. I have since switched over to PPG/Omni paints with much better results with a base coat and clear. KK takes a while to dry too, so, if you are doing it in the garage or outside, make sure you have a bug free zone for the first couple hours of drying. PPG paints dry almost instantly, so less chances of bugs ruining your finish.
KK does not dry, it cures; quite a difference. since I do not have a good spray gun, I have always used a brush with no problems. It flows well and does not leave brush marks.
Old 06-28-2016, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Rodney
KK does not dry, it cures; quite a difference. since I do not have a good spray gun, I have always used a brush with no problems. It flows well and does not leave brush marks.
Excuse me! Yes! Cures, thus why it is called an epoxy paint. I just use a Kobalt Gravity Spray Gun. Cheap investment for the hobby if you are going to continue building and painting. I have used it with KK and PPG/Omni. Does a nice job.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-45-Pi...n-Kit/50246671

For the small stuff, I have a Crescendo 175 Air Brush with both kinds of paint.

Biggest thing now to watch, is how much thinner you use for our humidity right now. Doesn't matter which paint you use for the humidity issues. Unless you have a humidity controlled spray booth that exhaust outside.
Old 06-28-2016, 03:44 PM
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phakur
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Thanks Guys--sounds like spraying is the way to go--I'm gonna try out my Wagner HVLP on something first to see how it goes.

Right now weather here is hot an humid. I need to wait till Sep-Oct which isn't a problem.

Larry
Old 07-22-2016, 09:06 AM
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Both done In KK. Shot w/ a inexpensive HVLP gun. Shot Last July in humid weather. Epoxy doesn't blush. 1:1:1 ratio.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:11 PM
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Harbor Freight touchup gun. If there is a problem chunk and get another. I can make it work 95% as good as a $400 gun.
Old 07-22-2016, 07:51 PM
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phakur
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Thanks guys-gonna try my wagner HVLP

That paint job looks great

Larry
Old 04-26-2018, 10:16 AM
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Default Thanks and looking for some directions

First I can't argue with the results of the finish on the planes shown..Wow

Since the discontinuing of the Lustre Kote spray cans, I've been forced to use my local body shop for what painting I need done. He's VERY accommodating, and accordingly VERY willing to take my MONEY. Looking for a better solution, research brought me to Klass Kote, Spraying is now the issue, with no spray equipment, it appears LPHV is the best solution. There are as many opinions as there are types of LPHV types of equipment. One fellow in our club uses the PREVAL (also LPHV??) system. Kinda like a refillable spray bottle/can. Looking for thoughts on what you're all using, why and recommendations.

Thanks ,
Got2retire (finally did)
Old 04-26-2018, 10:41 AM
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I use a Grex gun, but looking at their site I don't see it listed. Its a really nice quality detail gun that I use for painting and for spraying mold release with. I also have a Harbor Freight gun for primer. I haven't sprayed KK paint though I do have some. It stinks a lot so limited where I can spray, and like mentioned, can attract bugs and dirt. I spray automotive base/clear now or Latex and 2K clear.
Old 04-29-2018, 01:51 PM
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Ed,
I would like to turn out a plane with a finish like you have shown in your pictures....
If you have time, I've got a couple of question... First, can I send my completed "Shark LT (arf) to you for painting??? Just kidding..
Having only used Lustre Kote in spray cans, and only for cowlings, I've got zero experience with prepping balsa wood for spray painting. Would you share some of your secrets, once sanded smooth, polyurethane then primer? finishing epoxy then primer?
Any secrets to Klass Kote?
In the mean time, I'm going to do some research and invest in some spray equipment.
Tom
(got2retire)
Old 05-02-2018, 10:09 AM
  #13  
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I've used KK paint on many of my builds and have always been more than pleased with the results that I have gotten. First off, I am not a professional painter and I spray in my garage and not in a fancy spray booth. Yes the paint does smell, and yes it's not the cheapest paint that you can use but...I believe it to be the best paint that I have ever used. Your success first starts with a good gun that will properly atomize the paint. I use a Sata minijet 3000B HVLP gun. This is a photo of my last build/paint.

BTW, edp very impressive planes and paint work!

Last edited by VincentJ; 05-03-2018 at 02:47 AM.
Old 05-02-2018, 03:34 PM
  #14  
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The only issue I have with KK is the cure time. Living out in farm country, dust is a killer and that finish would look like sand paper before it cured. I found using auto base/clear on a hot day with hot reducer and hardener gives a finish as nice as that, but is tack free in 20 minutes or less. I still let it cure 24 before handling just to be safe, but I have less correction to do than I would with KK, which is also much harder to correct due to it being epoxy based. If I have access to a booth though, different story.

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