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TF Beechcraft Bonanza F33A Build

Old 11-20-2019, 06:38 AM
  #451  
jetmech43
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Thanks, won a couple of scale contest with it.
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:11 AM
  #452  
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Jetmech43, Congratulations, very well done! Sounded like a glow engine, what size is it? Feel free to post more pics of that beauty!
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:18 AM
  #453  
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OS 1.20AX I built it in 2009, weight was 19lbs, I don't have it anymore, I sold it when I moved to FL
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:35 AM
  #454  
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She was a big girl. I'll probably be around that same weight too...It looks like you had a retractable nose gear. I would love to see how you did it. I have a few ideas on what I'm going to do.
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:40 AM
  #455  
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You mean the Gear doors?, I just hinged the doors and used a spring so when the nose gear retracted it closed on the spring and closed the doors
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:46 AM
  #456  
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The nose gear door. I'll have the gear doors on the mains as well... Ok, I understand now!

Last edited by VincentJ; 11-20-2019 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:50 AM
  #457  
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Robart mains an nose air operated, the stock rail aren't really strong enough, replaced then with hard wood stock, I had to modify the gear for the muffler to fit like I wanted
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:55 AM
  #458  
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I bought .06 cloth here Homepage - CST The Composites Store, Inc.
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:56 AM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
Very nice Vincent. I'm glad you included the story that someone had underestimated your building skills without even knowing you. Sadly this seems to be the norm these days. You will however get a good chuckle when done with this beautiful build the same as I did when finished with my pattern airplane design. Rest assured you are getting great support here. I for one have always loved the Bonanza, the lines are simply timeless.
Thank you Speed.
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:06 AM
  #460  
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Heres some more pics
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:07 AM
  #461  
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They didnt upload
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:11 AM
  #462  
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Default Bonanza



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Old 11-20-2019, 08:29 AM
  #463  
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Seeing it up close you I can see why you won!

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 11-20-2019 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:36 AM
  #464  
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Clearly a winner...
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Old 11-20-2019, 10:25 AM
  #465  
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My first attempt at building a scale model, and I have been doing this for 40 years
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Old 11-20-2019, 11:22 AM
  #466  
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Originally Posted by jetmech43 View Post
My first attempt at building a scale model, and I have been doing this for 40 years
Well you certainly know what you are doing! So what is going to be your next build?
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Old 11-20-2019, 11:38 AM
  #467  
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Originally Posted by jetmech43 View Post
My first attempt at building a scale model, and I have been doing this for 40 years
Bravo.
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:15 PM
  #468  
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Not sure, I really don't have the time like I use too
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:25 PM
  #469  
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Originally Posted by jetmech43 View Post
Not sure, I really don't have the time like I use too
I can relate to the limited to next to nothing building time. Life has a habit of getting in the way.
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:40 PM
  #470  
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Yes it does, Ive always flown pattern, but I do enjoy building and fly scale
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Old 11-21-2019, 04:35 PM
  #471  
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I cut a small groove in the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer. This groove will allow clearance for the horn in the elevator joiner wire so it can move up and down without hitting.




The rudder is deflected left and right with this pre-bent rudder torque rod. A nylon swivel horn is rotated onto the threaded end.




The nylon horn is installed until it's flush to the threaded end as shown.




The rudder torque rod will be inserted through a hole drilled through the TOP of the stabilizer. I'm using a plywood rudder torque rod drill guide to ensure that the hole will be drilled at the correct angle.






I chose to drill a 3/16" hole using a brass tube with its end sharpened.




With the hole drilled, it's time to slip the rudder torque rod through the stabilizer.



Last edited by VincentJ; 11-22-2019 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:56 PM
  #472  
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Six 1/4" length bushings were cut from the white inner pushrod tube supplied in the kit. These bushings will be slipped over the pushrod wire. Another six bushings will need to be cut for an additional pushrod.




Two 2-56 pushrod wires were fitted with bushings. One is for the rudder and the other for the elevator. I was going to substitute these pushrods with stiffer 4-40 rods, but I decided against the added weight in the rear of the fuse.




These bushings were evenly spaced throughout the length of the pushrod. To ensure that the bushings stayed in place, a drop of thin CA was applied.




Before the horizontal stabilizer is epoxied into position, I wanted to check its incidence. The plans call for 2 degrees positive stab incidence. Too many builders just assume that the incidence is good and never check it. I'm using a Robart Model Incidence Meter, Model 3.




The first step is to get the fuse dead nuts level. Here I'm using the top of the fuselage which is the Datum Line for this plane. One leveled, I ensure that the fuselage doesn't move on my build table. This can be done with weights or clamps.




I'm glad I checked as the incidence was off by one degree. To get to my target of two degrees positive incidence, I needed to sand the rear portion of the saddle.




I'm close enough at two degrees now.




Once the incidence was set, the fit between the stab and saddle improved dramatically.

Last edited by VincentJ; 11-22-2019 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:53 PM
  #473  
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Looking good!
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Old 11-23-2019, 03:01 AM
  #474  
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I've taken a metal straightedge and placed it on top of the fuse sandwiched between two pine boards. The pressure of the boards will keep the straight edge in place and vertical.














With the stabilizer in place (before being epoxied), stand behind the fuselage and view the bottom edge of the stabilizer and the top of the straight edge. The two surfaces should be parallel. In this case because the stabilizer is tapered, I'm looking that there is equal space between the straightedge and the botttom of the stab as compared from left to right.




I have been using this method of "sighting" to verify if wings or stabilizers are properly aligned for years. If an adjustment was necessary, you would have to sand one side of the stabilizer saddle to get it aligned properly.

Note the the two photos on the back wall. Those pictures are of Bob's actual Bonanza, I keep them there for inspiration...



With the stab centered, sighted and its incidence checked, I can confidently apply the epoxy and clamp it into position knowing that I've done my due diligence as the builder.








Last edited by VincentJ; 11-23-2019 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 11-23-2019, 06:44 AM
  #475  
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Really looking good, Vinny. I'm curious, what is the wing incidence set at?
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