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TF Beechcraft Bonanza F33A Build

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Old 06-27-2019, 02:44 PM
  #26  
VincentJ
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Before calling it a night, I decided to epoxy these elevator torque rod blocks (4 per side) in place.

Last edited by VincentJ; 06-27-2019 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 06-27-2019, 02:58 PM
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Now that is what I call a sanding bar collection! I have only one of each except the contour sander which I have two..
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Old 06-27-2019, 07:38 PM
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Hi Vincent,
I will be following this build as well. It's like being in a shop class.

Hope the spinner for the 4Star comes in Monday. Am looking forward to some photos of it at the field.
Lupe in SA
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:21 AM
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Vincent, your building skills are amazing and I look forward to watching your build on here! It is real shame to go out to the field and there is very few builders left as they all have these big monster foamy things! It amazing to see something that you built with your own hands fly straight under power with out adding major trim! Thank you
Michael Johnston
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Old 06-28-2019, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mkjohnston View Post
Vincent, your building skills are amazing and I look forward to watching your build on here! It is real shame to go out to the field and there is very few builders left as they all have these big monster foamy things! It amazing to see something that you built with your own hands fly straight under power with out adding major trim! Thank you
Michael Johnston
Thanks Mike, this should be a good project with just enough head scratching involved to make it interesting if you know what I mean...
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Old 06-28-2019, 04:28 PM
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Today Bob and I spent a fun day going to our not so near hobby shop with plans in hand to see if we could find an engine that would fit. From the start of this project I didn't want to use a glow engine, I wanted to use a gasoline engine. I have researched other Bonanza builds and none that I am aware of have used a gas engine, so we may be breaking new ground here!




Plans show three hinges per elevator, but I will be installing four per elevator. 1/8" Robart steel point hinges will be substituted for the flat nylon hinges supplied in the kit. You can see their locations on the plans as I have highlighted the areas.




Using steel point hinges require structure to anchor into, so balsa hinge blocks were added in the appropriate locations. You may wonder why the hinge blocks are running the full span between rib bays when a one inch block would suffice. One word, insurance. If I make a mistake drilling for a hing point, I can easily abandon the hole and move the hinge location over without any trouble...




The hinge blocks were carefully fitted between each bay.



Last edited by VincentJ; 06-29-2019 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 06-28-2019, 04:38 PM
  #32  
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Our fiberglass parts came in today! I've used Fiberglass Specialties on a number of planes that I have built, but I have to say these are the nicest parts that I have received from them to date!
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:19 PM
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They look nice and clean. I just purchased these from Fiberglass Specialties same great quality.

Mike
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Old 06-29-2019, 05:13 AM
  #34  
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Didn't know that Fiberglass Specialties also made clear cabin tops too Mike.
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Old 06-29-2019, 05:25 AM
  #35  
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With all of the internal structure now completed, I'm ready to sheet the bottom half.




One detail that I would like to point out. If you look closely at the trailing edge on the elevator, you will notice how the bottom of the top sheeting has been beveled slightly. This will allow the top of the bottom sheet to mate correctly.




It was hard to get it to show on camera, maybe you can see it here a bit better...




Beveling the top sheet can create a gluing problem if your not careful. A bead of water based glue (Titebond II) applied along the thin trailing edge, would more than likely warp the edge of the sheeting. To solve this problem, a thin layer of epoxy is applied along the edge preventing any warpage. The epoxy will also stiffen the thin edge of the elevator. For the rest of the glue-up, Titebond II was used.

Last edited by VincentJ; 06-29-2019 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 06-29-2019, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by VincentJ View Post
Didn't know that Fiberglass Specialties also made clear cabin tops too Mike.
This set is a two piece affair to fit the Walt Musciano Ryan Navion. I believe they make others but I'm not sure which ones. I purchased their cowl and tail cone for my TF 182. I didn't get the wheel pants because the CA airplane I am modeling doesn't have them.
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Old 06-30-2019, 09:28 AM
  #37  
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Sheeting has been completed!












Now is the time to liberate the elevators from the stabilizer. My preferred tool to use is an old blade from one of my Zona saws.




No turning back now!




Success!




The elevator's trailing edges came out perfectly straight, and the epoxy has stiffened them up considerably.




Before I forgot, I labeled the positions of the elevators in relation to the stab for future reference..

Last edited by VincentJ; 07-01-2019 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 06-30-2019, 12:17 PM
  #38  
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Awesome. Ill be watching this build closely. I would love to build a TF Bonanza but the kits are very hard to come by.
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:40 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by GRANT ED View Post
Awesome. I’ll be watching this build closely. I would love to build a TF Bonanza but the kits are very hard to come by.
Welcome GRANT ED. Yes, these kits are quite hard to find, but don't give up looking. Bob and I looked for quite some time before we were tipped off by a friend that there were two for sale on E-Bay. We immediately purchased one. They are pricey, but look at all the fun and enjoyment that you will get out of building it!
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Old 07-01-2019, 09:57 AM
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Trailing edge of the stab is sanded flush and readied for a final 1/8" thick cap strip.




Cap strip is glued and sanded .








The elevators halves went through the same procedure as did the stab. I thought I would show how I clamped the cap strips in place while the glue dries.




You can never have too many clamps!

Last edited by VincentJ; 07-01-2019 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 07-01-2019, 12:14 PM
  #41  
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I never tried those single handed clamp types until recently. I always owned the handle screw types. I tell you, I won't be going back to the two-handed handle screw types!
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:18 PM
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I am going to have to invest in more of those clamps as I have 4 and thats not enough! look very good Vincent I enjoy your build. I need to finish my A-RAY that is framed up and needs to have the Barn Door Alierons cut out now
Michael Johnston
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:22 AM
  #43  
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Mike and Steve, These style clamps are invaluable to this type of building. They come in a variety of sizes as well as the bars coming in different lengths. By flipping the heads around they can clamp from the inside instead of the more normal outside clamping.
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Old 07-02-2019, 04:19 AM
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I use a lot of the small clamps like that and I am going to start building up the larger sizes too. They are just too good not use.
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Old 07-02-2019, 06:11 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by VincentJ View Post
Mike and Steve, These style clamps are invaluable to this type of building. They come in a variety of sizes as well as the bars coming in different lengths. By flipping the heads around they can clamp from the inside instead of the more normal outside clamping.
I have a couple Irwin and a few other types like Dewalt and some really cheap ones from Harbor Freight. I didn't know the heads turned around! I used them to clamp the LE and TE when gluing and they helped a lot. But I did have to watch the tightness because the clamp faces didn't stay parallel if clamped too tightly and I;m not talking about much here. It helped when the heads were pushed a little more forward past then center of pressure. In the end they were much easier to use. I bought a few when I got to building again which is my current build now.
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Old 07-02-2019, 06:49 AM
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I have a few metal bar clamps and strap clamps as well. They bar clamps come in handy for wider surfaces and the strap clamps for odd shapes. I think most people including myself have a tendency to over tighten clamps.

I have a new building supervisor now. My wife finally got me to cave in and get a companion for our senior supervisor. Her name is Sandy.



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Old 07-02-2019, 08:54 AM
  #47  
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What a cutie Mike!!! I don't know if she's a supervisor, but she sure would be a welcome distraction...
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:07 AM
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Much work and photographs have been taken, but I've been too busy to post it all! I want to hinge the elevator halves to the stab, but because of the unique tips and critical clearance involved, I have decided to attach the tips on the stabilizer first then proceed to the hinging. This will allow me to better and more accurately determine the clearance of the elevator tips. More to come...





These are the tips for both the stabilizer and elevators. Solid 3/4" balsa. I've drawn a line that goes around the perimeter of each tip denoting the center.




I've indexed off the plans the angle that I will have to cut each tip. I'm being careful with my measurements as I only have one try to get it right.




Using my Zona saw, I cut each tip on my mark.
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:28 AM
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Part I - Hinging the Elevators to the Stabilizer





With the tips glued on the stab only, I can start on the hinging process. I need to find the exact center of the stab's trailing edge. Keep in mind, because the ribs are tapered on the stab, the measurement from one end to the other will be different. I want to index my ruler on the end of the TE. For an exact measurement, I am holding my metal square as a backer for me to butt my ruler up to.




The center is measured and marked using a sharp pencil.




Once I have the measurements on each side, I use a straight edge to mark the center line.




With the center line established, I'm using the plans for each hinge points exact location. There are four hinge points per elevator half.




Lines are faint but visible.




I've taken blue painter's tape and placed about a one inch piece directly above the hinge point line. I've extended that line onto the top of the tape using a fine tipped Sharpie.

Note: I prefer to use painter's tape rather than marking directly on the wood with a pencil. Removing the tape requires less sanding!





It's time to take the elevator half and tape it to the stab in its exact position. I've also transferred the hinge line from the stab to the elevator.




Stay tuned for Part II on Hinging...

Last edited by VincentJ; 07-02-2019 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:33 AM
  #50  
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Vince you are moving right along quite nicely!
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