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TF Beechcraft Bonanza F33A Build

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Old 08-15-2019, 04:21 AM
  #176  
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That's just one of those things you learn over the years when working in various types of manufacturing and maintenance. The catch is that you can't sand through all the plating as it will give corrosion an easier time of getting to the base metal, that is unless you use stainless anchor nuts to begin with.

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Old 08-15-2019, 05:01 AM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
That's just one of those things you learn over the years when working in various types of manufacturing and maintenance. The catch is that you can't sand through all the plating as it will give corrosion an easier time of getting to the base metal, that is unless you use stainless anchor nuts to begin with.
How does the epoxy do with stainless hardware and who carries SS"T" Nuts in 2-56 and 4-40?

Mike
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:43 AM
  #178  
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Which 6-32 nut is more effective for firewalls, landing gear and such? From my last online order I received the smaller sized T-nut. Was expecting the type with the larger flange. Is the smaller flange size likely to fail or pull through later?
And, very nice work Vincent.
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:14 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by SA Flyer View Post

Which 6-32 nut is more effective for firewalls, landing gear and such? From my last online order I received the smaller sized T-nut. Was expecting the type with the larger flange. Is the smaller flange size likely to fail or pull through later?
And, very nice work Vincent.
Lupe, always, always try to spread the load. So in your example if you have the room, opt for the one that has a larger diameter.
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Old 08-17-2019, 02:01 AM
  #180  
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Not satisfied with the minimal flap hinge blocking called for on the plans, I decided to add a bit more wood for the hinges to anchor into.




Back side of the added blocking. With all the angles, it was quite the trick to get them to fit properly.




The rest of the blocking is now added. Remember the blocking I'm adding now was supposed to be the only hinge blocking that was called for in the plans.


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Old 08-17-2019, 04:26 AM
  #181  
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Just what the doctor orderd! I add the blocks too I like a little meat holding the hinges.
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Old 08-17-2019, 11:52 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
Just what the doctor orderd! I add the blocks too I like a little meat holding the hinges.
This isn't in my opinion a place to skimp on to save weight. I don't want to envision hitting the flap switch when my airspeed may be a bit to fast and the hinges rip out!!!
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Old 08-18-2019, 02:11 AM
  #183  
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Flap hinge blocks for both wing halves are completed.




You can clearly see how much extra wood I added for the hinge to anchor. The stock hinge block would have only been the outer (tapered) block.

Last edited by VincentJ; 08-18-2019 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 08-18-2019, 10:12 AM
  #184  
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Vince, What a cool idea with the extra thick hinge block it gives you extra support with out much a weight gain. Looks great and thanks for sharing!
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:57 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by mkjohnston View Post
Vince, What a cool idea with the extra thick hinge block it gives you extra support with out much a weight gain. Looks great and thanks for sharing!
Michael Johnston
You're welcome Mike!
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Old 08-19-2019, 01:20 AM
  #186  
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Here is the plan to build the Center Section that will ultimately join the right and left wing panels together.




Before I can start to assemble the Center Section, four (W1) ribs need to be reinforced with 1/8" birch plywood doublers shown. These will be epoxied to the appropriate side(s) of each rib. Care must be taken to be sure that each doubler is epoxied on the correct side of each rib...




So here is a bit of a building tip that I often use when epoxying small parts onto something larger such as you see here. After applying the epoxy, use small spring clamps securing the parts together. These spring clamps will do a good job of applying enough clamping pressure to hold the parts in alignment. If needed, you can slide the parts if they move out of alignment. I will keep the spring clamps on for about 10 or 15 minutes. Checking the unused epoxy left in my mixing cup will tell me when the epoxy is starting to firm up a bit.




Once the epoxy has started to firmed up, I remove the spring clamps. Lay them on a flat surface and apply weight over the top and allow them to fully cure. If I had tried to go from spreading the epoxy to this point I can pretty much assure you that the parts will have slid out of alignment, causing you pain and aggravation. Allowing the epoxy to firm up, gives just the right amount of resistance that stops parts from sliding.

Last edited by VincentJ; 08-19-2019 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:11 PM
  #187  
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Today was one of those days where you take one step forward and three back... It all started with the delivery of the mail. I was eagerly awaiting supplies that I ordered. Of course when I opened the box I was sent the wrong items, so off to the post office to re-box and send back! OK, VJ just a minor set-back, you'll assemble the wing's center section. Right, until I notice I'm short one rib!!! I looked everywhere for it, I don't think it was in the kit. No problem, I'll cut my own rib. Oh no, this rib is 1/8" thick, and I don't have the right balsa stock to make it. Stop what I'm doing and jump in my vehicle to buy a sheet of balsa that's 35 minutes away... Sorry for the rant, I feel better now.




The rib that I had to duplicate is the first one on the bottom.



Last edited by VincentJ; 08-19-2019 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 08-19-2019, 04:16 PM
  #188  
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I hate it when stuff like that happens!
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:18 PM
  #189  
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Just think of it as a combination plans and kit build. No one will know the difference but us "sparrows"
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Old 08-20-2019, 02:49 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by Hydro Junkie View Post
Just think of it as a combination plans and kit build. No one will know the difference but us "sparrows"
Excellent, it will be "our" secret! lol
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Old 08-20-2019, 02:57 AM
  #191  
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Preliminary dry fit before glue up.




Everything lines up as it should, time for glue.



This is what it takes to make sure that all of the ribs are plumb and directly over the lines of the plans.


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Old 08-20-2019, 05:35 AM
  #192  
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No one will ever know the middle rib isn't original!
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:20 AM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
No one will ever know the middle rib isn't original!
I have to tell you Mike, it fits better/tighter than the other ribs!
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:58 AM
  #194  
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I'm not surprised, you cut to tighter tolerances than TF.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:20 AM
  #195  
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Center Section is ready for sheeting, but not tonight because I'm going flying! Probably start sheeting tomorrow around 3:00 am!
















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Old 08-20-2019, 10:48 AM
  #196  
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I think you should sleep in and start at 3:30 AM.

Mike
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:43 PM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
I think you should sleep in and start at 3:30 AM.

Mike
Wish I could Mike, I can't shut off my brain...
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:36 PM
  #198  
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My wife has that problem too.
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Old 08-20-2019, 09:23 PM
  #199  
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Guys, it could be worse. You could be like me, working 12 hour shifts, over night, three days a week with one or two more 9 hour shifts to start or end the week. To make matters worse, the wife works from home so I need to be quiet while she's working, just in case one of her co-workers or supervisor calls. Needless to say, I don't get much time to work on anything

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Old 08-20-2019, 11:49 PM
  #200  
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That's pretty rough Hydro, I agree.
I've learned over time to just accept it as it is and get out of bed and be productive, which is why I head down to my workshop so early!
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