pacificnwflier

Hello Folks,

I'm building my first plane in decades (Sig Mid-Star .40, balsa sheet-covered fuselage), and I am trying to decide on whether to cover this plane with one of the common materials (ie., MonoKote) or paint it. I really need some good advice, or at least some feedback on painting balsa versus covering it. Also, I assume that I would cover the wing with silk span, which would of course also be painted.

I like paint because it has a less "plastic" look, and has no wrinkles (I see a lot of wrinkles in the covering on fuselages). If I paint, I would use an airbrush, if that matters to the decision. However, I keep hearing that painting makes the plane "heavy". So...

1. Does painting make the plane substantially heavier? If so, any idea how much? Also, how critical to performance is the added weight? I want the plane to perform well, but I'm looking to tear up the sky at this point.

2. How well does paint hold up to the rigors of fuel, dirt, normal use, etc. compared to one of the widely used coverings?

3. Just how much paint are we talking about to paint a plane like the Mid-Star .40 (65 in. wingspan)?

Clearly most planes are being covered these days, and I have a feeling there is good reason for that. But before I make a decision, I'd really appreciate some feedback from those with experience in this area. Thanks!

r1morris

My Feedback: (1)

Ok here is my 2 cents worth. I have been building model aircraft for over 40 years. As the old saying goes "been there done that". Today most of us use paint on aircraft more in the scale category to attempt to duplicate a specific finish or look. Thats as in painting the entire aircraft. Many of the bigger 3D and aerobatic larger aircraft my sport paintjobs costing a small fortune.
For the average everyday type kit like you have I would strongly suggest using an iron on product. Monokote, Oracover and there are others. Look around the forums here you will get lots of information on what people like to use and how to. As far as seeing wrinkles in the covering. This happens to many ARF type aircraft. I think its due to temp and humidity changes from where it was covered to where it winds up. Also overheating or not properly using the material can leave wrinkles.
As far as paint goes on Balsa I wouldn't recommend it doesn't hold up well. the finish is harder then the wood and will crack. Most of us have learned to cover the wood structure with very light 3/4 ounce glass cloth to create a base for the painted surface.
For cowls and other details on a plane I use spray cans of paint. Works fine and does the job well.
My advise learn to cover your plane with an iron on and you'll be just as satisfied with a lot less effort.
Pssssst ya can't see da wrinkles when shes flyin past ya at 40 anyhow.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

"I'm building my first plane in decades "
Here's the answer to your questions, because I have to asume that you haven't flown all that much in decades either, or am I wrong?
If this is the case I would have to agree with the above recommendation that your best bet would be to use a covering film or fabric, which is the difference you might ask ?, well films are those like Monokote, Ultracote, etc. very shiny and because they do not allow any air through their surface, the air bubbles that are trapped underneath the material expand with heat and thus create the wrinkles and such other anomalies in the finish. Fabric materials do not have this tendency, as they allow trapped air to escape, but this doesn't mean that oil and dirt are going the get throug it and into the bare wood, it doesn't (they are easier to apply too). Fabric is stronger also, and some come already painted (eg. Solartex), but you can also apply Supershrink coverite, which is unpainted and then paint it succesfully with something like Rustoleum if you like. Do not use silkspan to cover areas that are not fully sheeted, as it is not strong enough to withstand the rigors of flying or should we say landing, except when always on the mains and in a nice smooth clean runway.

pacificnwflier

This is good input, gentlemen. Thanks.

I wasn't even aware of the fabric. I will have to explore that.

You are correct that I am new to flying RC, and I expect durability to be a good thing for the first few planes. It sounds like a good cover on the plane helps in that respect.

Nobody has mentioned the weight issue, so I wonder if that aspect is not a big deal?

OscarPilot

My Feedback: (7)

Here is a good rule of thumb. Cover wood; paint fiberglass.

Azcat59

Been building them since 1943, and have used silkspan and dope, silk and dope, other fabrics and dope, epoxy, or polyurethane, glass cloth with dope, epoxy paint, and laminating epoxy. And probably some painting combinations I have forgotten. And I have also used iron on Monokote, UltraCote, Oracover, Coverite and SolarTex.

For the airplane you are building, I would use Monokote or Ultracote. It is lighter, in general takes a little less time to do, gives a nice bright finish that holds up, and is easier to patch, which you may find necessary if you are just getting into RC.

Stay away from the old silkspan over any open bay areas (like your wings) as it is too brittle for RC use. I say that even though I am using it as a base on the solid flying surfaces on a scale P-51b to help fill grain and prepare a base for primer.

I paint any warbirds I build, as film just doesn't look right. Although I did film a 40 size GT Planes Spitfire with grey Ultracote, then sprayed the camou on. I use film on all the aerobatic models I own such as the CAPs, Extras, etc.

Hope these ideas will be of some help to you.

Clair Sieverling

Azcat59

I forgot. Paint is a lot heavier than film, if you fill the wood grain properly, prime to a flat hard surface, and then color paint. I used to keep track of the weights on pattern planes, and on a 750 sq. inch wing, as I recall, I could Monokote it for a round 2 1/2 ounces, + or - depending on color, but it would take almost that much just to carefully glass cloth it (.6 oz. cloth) and have it ready for primer, which then added more weight, even though you think you sand most of it off. Then color paint. And trim colors.

Keep it light. Light is good.....

Clair

buzzard bait

I returned to the hobby years after having learned dope and silkspan finishes for my boyhood C/L and FF planes. I love dope finishes and I'm quite happy with clear dope on the wings and color fuse and trim for most planes. I use Sig Koverall which is strong, cheap, goes on easy, and shrinks with heat. Built a 55 inch LW Champ that came out to 2 lbs 14 ozs, tough as nails. Brushed on the clear and sprayed on the color with disposable Preval sprayers. I did a Stingray 40 using Dave Brown Skyloft, which was heavier than the Koverall and took more dope to seal (I'd never use it again). Still came out under 4 1/2 lbs, which is very light for that kit. It's a light finish if you spray on the color and aren't trying for a show piece. To me, a mediocre dope job (and that's all I bother with) beats a good film job, but you just have to decide what YOU like best.

I'm learning to use film now too, since you can put it on in the winter. I'll use it for some simple sport types. Jim