Shrike Question???
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Shrike Question???
Allright, I have built several kits in my short RC career and even have one scratch built under my belt. BUT, this little Shrike 10 has me baffled on the following:
The top hatch. Obviously the front of it uses the old dowel into hold down block treatment, fine. But what holds the rear of the hatch down? No screws or screw hold-down blocks for them to thread into are shown. There is a piece of 1/8 dowel running through the fuse (side to side) right at the rear edge of the hatch, but I can't see from the plans exactly what it is for? Is it somehow used to hold down the hatch? What is it's function?
I can easily make up a hold down for the hatch, but between the instructions and the plans, I'm a little aggravated that I can't figure it out as they intended.
Anybody else been here?
The top hatch. Obviously the front of it uses the old dowel into hold down block treatment, fine. But what holds the rear of the hatch down? No screws or screw hold-down blocks for them to thread into are shown. There is a piece of 1/8 dowel running through the fuse (side to side) right at the rear edge of the hatch, but I can't see from the plans exactly what it is for? Is it somehow used to hold down the hatch? What is it's function?
I can easily make up a hold down for the hatch, but between the instructions and the plans, I'm a little aggravated that I can't figure it out as they intended.
Anybody else been here?
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Shrike
The wooden dowel is for rubber bands. You put the dowel in the fuse toards the back of the hatch. Just make sure you don't put it to far back or your bands could slip off. I used the dowel and bands on my Shrike.
A friend of mine used a screw to hold his hatch down. He lost the hatch in flight. It fluttered down right in front of us! I think it would work well if you use basswood or spruce instead of balsa. It might be a good idea to use some 1/32 or 1/16" plywood on the hatch to re-inforce the screw hole to.
If I were to build another one, I would use the screw. It looks better than the rubber bands.
I recommend having someone else launch for you, that little plane can get away from you fast! If your worried about the small control throws, don't be. They're perfect. Good luck with your first flight!
A friend of mine used a screw to hold his hatch down. He lost the hatch in flight. It fluttered down right in front of us! I think it would work well if you use basswood or spruce instead of balsa. It might be a good idea to use some 1/32 or 1/16" plywood on the hatch to re-inforce the screw hole to.
If I were to build another one, I would use the screw. It looks better than the rubber bands.
I recommend having someone else launch for you, that little plane can get away from you fast! If your worried about the small control throws, don't be. They're perfect. Good luck with your first flight!
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Thanks
Sooo, that's what the little dowel is for. Well, they make that about as clear as mud in the instructions. However, since I plan to push this plane well over 100 MPH, I will opt for the screw hatch version.
BTW: I picked up a brand new Norvel AME 25 for it, it should scoot.
Thanks again guys.
BTW: I picked up a brand new Norvel AME 25 for it, it should scoot.
Thanks again guys.
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Shrike 10 top hatch hold down.
Hey Jim , I have the same kit. I also did,nt like the rubber band at high speed idea. I epoxied a piece of 1/4" x 3/8" hardwood with a 4-40 blindnut about 1/2 below top of fuse. Epoxied a sqaure of 3/32 ply to inside back of hatch. One 1/2 x4-40 bolt and a little locktite seems to keep her on. My Shrike is done in an Edwards AFB Flight Test Center(white /missile red) scheme. Also installed fixed gear w/ steering. Flys good with a Mecoa .15 up front. I just got a hold of a RJL/Cox Conquest .15. I may make the swap if I get time. I,ve heard this combination really screams(100+mph) I'll try to get pic's soon . I've gotten alot of complements on the way it looks and flys. JEFF