flapper02

Just resumed building a Sig 1/6 Clipped Wing Cub after 26 years. Any advice would be greatly appreciated..... Super Steve suggested MonoKote/TowerKote when time to cover.

I would love to get a copy of the current Sig instruction book......as I have the large "to scale" table top build sheet to follow and the original book. I understand the current book is much improved and has photos to assist in explanation. Sig apparently does not have the books on PDF yet. Bought a OS 0.46FX, hope it will be OK. Steve, the twin 130 Saito looks real good in the nose of yours.

phread59

Hey Flapper, I am just about done with a GP Cub. I am going to use 21ST Century fabric on mine. Kinda like Monocote but lloks like painted fabric. Maybe you oughta take a look at it. Mine's gonna be Maroon and Cub Yellow.

Mark Shuman

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I was not aware that Sig manufactured a clipped wing cub 1/6th scale. I have the Sig cub 1/6th scale ready to fly. This kit was a 71" wing span but after flying others I built mine with a 67" span. Not exactly scale but more of the flight response I am looking for. Still covered the plane in cub yellow and used a OS46 Surpass 4 stroke for power. I had to shorten my nose to make the motor fit without adding a lot of tail weight. I know what you are saying about that instruction book. Little more than a couple of ideas. I have been building for many years though and did not use the instruction book much. One word of caution, use the struts, they are functional. I did use spruce for the cabin area, I thought that the balsa in this area with the wing mounting above was not sturdy enough. Kit builds well, just take your time.

JEB

dennis

My Feedback: (90)

I built 2 of those over the years and never had near the power that you guys are putting in. In fact they should be very grossly overpowered.
The first one had an Enya 35 in the 70's and would take off at 1/2 throttle and fly at 1/4 throttle. Never need full throttle even to loop it.
Second one I clipped the wings and used an OS 25 FSR with sparkling results.
Both of these planes had the motors inverted, most of the detailing, bungee shocks et al and were fabric and dope finishes.
These planes were light, there isn't that much to the structure to begin with. I could understand it if we were talking about the G.P or Goldberg kits as they are grossly overweight to begin with.
It must be the disease of the times to overpower everything , try using a little less power and see how well the plane will really fly. It's kind of fun to run on the 2 wheels for a long takeoff instead of jumping into the air.
Dennis

flapper02

phread, bps & and dennis,

Thanks for the advice. My 1/6th scale, 1970 vintage, Sig Clipped Wing Cub has a wing span of 56". The build sheet suggests 0.19 to 0.35 engine size. Locally a fella has a 80" Cub w/ a 0.40 installed and flies real well. I never considered how much excess throttle he had available. My thinking was more power needed for less lifting surface........got no opinion from the local hobby shop when asked and purchased earlier this month? They have a considerable RC truck and car walk up business. I guess I can return and exchange for smaller.......????? The muffler on the O.S. 0.46FX (which is pretty large) is longer than the engine!! ......Kinda large and obnoxious for the Cub as I gaze at it. Scale wise I wonder if this is the right choice? If I exchange the engine what should I consider for this bird? Why did you invert the engines on the install? What benefit is realized?

dennis

My Feedback: (90)

An inverted motor on a cub is strictly for looks. It's far cleaner then having the motor upright or side mounted. It is not very difficult to set up in spite of what you might hear,
Oh and if your building any cub you have to put the dummycylinders on. There are too many people flying cubs without any detail at all on and they really do look like crap. Do not forget the jury struts they add too much character to be left off the plane
If your going to build a scale model of a real plane then try and do the best job you know how. The Cub has been modeled so extensively that it attracts no attention at the field anymore, unless you take the time to do it right and make it a real attention getter. Then coupled with some truly good flying you might even get the local hotshot to stop and admire your work. Dennis

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

You may also want to perchace an inverted pitts style muffler to keep the scale look.

Phi3l

I'm also building the 1/6 scale Sig Clipped Wing Cub. Mine is one I have had on the shelf for some years. I looked on Sig's web page and yes, bps, they do still make this kit they call it "Sig Clipped Wing Cub - Small" it still has the same kit number SIGRC26.

And dennis, thanks for your post about the engine choices. I think you helped me decide. I have an OS 25FX without a home that may be just the ticket for this airplane.

Phil in MN[8D]

Rineholio

Flapper02,

You'll love the Cub. I just started building again after a three year layoff. I'm new to this forum but have built and flown two Sig 1/6 clipped wing cubs and I have these observations for you.

1. IMO, A strong, light .25 is your best choice. I've used an old OS .35 bushing motor, and that was fine. Scale-like flying. I've also used an O.S. 26 four stroke(or is it a .28, I forget!) which is also very scale like, and not too heavy. If you are aerobatic prone, use a ballbearing .25. For more scale like flying, a fourstroke is nice. I haven't been flying for several years, so the newer slightly larger fourstrokes would probably be perfect. You are better off with keeping the weight down, however, as I'm about to mention.

2. The key to enjoying the small clipped wing cub is to keep it as light as possible. If you don't it won't fly as well. My father-in-law built one and used an O.S. 48 fourstroke. It was just too heavy and way too much power. If any of the wood used in the tail or for fuse spars rearward is heavy, replace it. If you keep the tail light, you'll be able to balance it without adding weight.

3. I agree with using the film covering. My first Cub was covered with Monocote and was really light. It was a blast to fly. On my second Cub, I used fabric and paint, and added too much weight doing it. It still flies well, but not as well as the first Cub, which was lighter (and died a violent death many years ago). I'm about to recover the second Cub. It's nine years old and the paint it faded and probably not very fuel proof anymore. I'm going to recover it with film.

Enjoy the plane. It's a great flyer and makes beautiful lowspeed passes, and does very nice realistic aerobatics.

SDM

My Feedback: (9)

I built a Clipped wing Sig Cub about 10 years ago and it was a great flyer. I originally started with a OS 40 FS (pre Surpass) for
power and it was under powered. I eventually went with a K&B 40 and it was definitely over powered but more fun to fly. Both the
40s were too large for the cowl and kind of stuck out. A very labor intensive kit but definitely worth it in the end. I used Sig Koverall
for covering and painted it with Sig dope. It held up well until I dumb thumbed it into the ground but I have another kit waiting
to be started. I haven't decided on what engine to use next time but the new Saito 30 or 40 look great. I think the OS 46 you have
might be a bit too much both physically and power wise but then that's why they have throttles...
If I remember correctly there is not alot of room between the firewall and the front of the cowl to fit a 40 or 46 so you may consider
moving the firewall back to suit your engine etc.

A fun plane most of all ..
Good luck with it
Sam