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Sig 1/6th J3 Cub

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Old 01-02-2018, 02:53 AM
  #151  
tubig
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Some small details were added to the engine shrouds and then re-primed.

I had to re-do the fuselage-wing covering panel since I lost the one I drummed up earlier in the build. It does do a great job of covering the fuselage-wing joint but the fit is not perfect.

Finally, some "spark plugs" were made even though they really can't be seen under the shrouds. However, the spark plug wires exit the top of the shrouds so the spark plugs provide an attachment point for them.
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:44 PM
  #152  
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Spark plug wires are in by ca'ing to the "plugs" and then passed through holes in the shrouds.

The engine is pretty much finished as far as I will take it. It certainly adds to the model but anymore I think would be overkill for the scale level of this model.
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Old 02-10-2018, 05:01 AM
  #153  
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Minor progress made with dummy bungee "shock" covers fabbed from goatskin. Having a little trouble getting the ends to fold down even with slits spaced around the perimeter. Will have to work more on that. The brace was previously made from sheet plastic and has a small black rubber band "shock" wrapped around the "X" piano wires sandwiched by the brace.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:12 AM
  #154  
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Finished smoothing out the air filter sides and then drilled a hole through for a toothpick which will be glued to the inside of the cowl for mounting. Contemplated several different mounting methods but this seemed to offer the easiest method for adjustment. Toothpick will be epoxied to the cowl for permanent mounting.

Also, started work on the strut braces. Piano wire is sandwiched between two 1/16 balsa pieces which have been hollowed to accept the piano wire. The brace on the right has been initially shaped, the left has not.
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:55 AM
  #155  
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To get the shock covers to close around the ends of the balsa filler the pieces had to be removed from the wire gear and the slitted ends ca'ed down. This really shouldn't have been a surprise since they really need to be removed for painting anyway. The final end pieces won't be glued down until permanent installation as the balsa halves will have to be opened slightly in the unfinished area in order to mount onto the piano wire.

Also, the balsa strut brace fairings were also finish sanded and both sides 'glassed.
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Old 02-17-2018, 05:37 AM
  #156  
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After cleaning up the fiberglass skinning on the strut brace balsa the next order of business was the attachment of the strut braces to the wing struts. After looking over the method of the 1:1 it just didn't seem feasible at this scale so a different approach was tried. Firstly, a brass tube was slit down the middle. Piano wire was inserted as a means to support the tube while cutting with a rotary tool. Then 1/4" length pieces were cut. These pieces were then "snapped" onto the braces' piano wire at each end. Then came the tricky part. The 1/4" brass pieces needed to be soldered to brass straps on each strut. But they had to be soldered while in position for correct alignment and without catching the wood on fire. The only method I could come up with was to protect the wood as best as possible with aluminum foil. At this, I was only partially successful. However. the brass tube is attached to the strips and putty will take care of the small area that was burned.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:21 PM
  #157  
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The strut braces have been cleaned up and are ready to epoxy to the struts. My clamps were too big to fit each opposing side of the strut (allowing the brass strip to be wrapped completely around the strut) and not get in each other's way so small zip ties were employed. At first, the zip ties were placed diagonally across the brass strip but having two ties across the strips worked better. Being nylon, any excess epoxy getting on the ties shouldn't be a problem when it comes time to remove them. It'll be a few days before I'm available to remove the ties. I have a few photos to post but the site won't allow it now for some reason. Maybe later.
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Last edited by tubig; 02-19-2018 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:42 AM
  #158  
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Re: Uploading photos. It may just be my internet connection but the site often will not successfully batch upload photos although the site appears to allow for it. It is tedious but try loading the photos no more than two at a time. I'm enjoying your build. I had one of these back in the 90's. it was way overpowered with a K&B .40.
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Old 02-23-2018, 01:26 AM
  #159  
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Thanh’s for the info Matt. When you say 2 at a time I guess you mean 2 photos per post. So, for example, if I have 6 photos I would post them in 3 separate posts. Seems a little tedious but I’ll give it a shot. I have noticed that I have a 50/50 shot that a thumbnail will actually pop up to the enlarged photo.

Thanks for following along on the build. We’re getting close. (Of course, I said that 10 years ago)
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:12 AM
  #160  
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You can up load more than two photos per post. You just have to use the upload function more than once. You can keep going back to the upload tab until you hit submit reply. Even then you can add additional photos with the "edit" function. It seems like the difficulty pulling up photos from a thumbnail is proportional to the number of photos on the page. If the thumbnail doesn't come up, try "open item in a new tab" by right clicking on the thumbnail.
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Old 02-25-2018, 05:29 AM
  #161  
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Zip ties are off and the excess epoxy was cleaned up. A little putty to smooth over the gap where the brass strips came together still to be sanded. After that, I'll spray a little primer on the metal to keep corrosion down prior to paint.
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Old 02-26-2018, 03:54 AM
  #162  
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Putty was cleaned up and etching primer was sprayed on the bare metal and some of the balsa fairing. Took three coats of primer and still requires some more touch-up. Nothing like primer and direct sunlight to show imperfections and there were quite a few.

While the primer was drying I began toying with the idea of simulating the aileron control cable run. The real problem is that on the 1:1 the aileron cable runs from the strut in to the fuselage at the base of the strut connection. Obviously, this can't be duplicated while still allowing for the wing to be removed (or some good engineering). If I continue with this I will probably just have the cable (thread) terminate in the heat shrink which is being used to conceal the clevis wire threads attaching the struts to the fuselage.

To start, the pulley needs to be made. For this, I was guessing from photos that the 1:1 pulley is about 3" in diameter. 1/6th of that is 1/2". A piece of 3/8" poplar dowel was cut into a 3/32" sliver. Then 7/16" diameter pieces were cut from 1/64" ply and glued to each side of the dowel sliver. A round channel was created with both a triangular and round file. The full 1/2" diameter looked too big against the struts (struts are probably not quite scaled correctly) so the full diameter was reduced to 7/16".
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Old 03-07-2018, 11:12 PM
  #163  
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Continued on with the false aileron control by making the pulley frame from .010 styrene. Not quite finished with the pulley details until I get the arrangement setup. The pulley will be secured to the wing with a jewelry flat head pin. Initially, I'm using a synthetic yarn (not wool) as the cable until I can source some smaller heavy sewing thread. It stretches just enough to remain taut but does not pull too hard against the pulley. The "cable" that goes into the wing will be glued in. On the 1:1 cubby there is a grommet that the cable rides through attached to the strut brace clamp. This is simulated by ca'ing a piece of styrene into an aluminum tube. The 1:1 apparently uses a teflon or nylon bushing inside the steel bracket so that is what the styrene simulates. The end that goes into the fuselage will have a small piece of aluminum tube attached. That, in turn, will slide into a piece of fuel tubing that will be attached (and hidden) inside the fuselage. That should effect an easy way to attach/detach the "cable" at the field and allow the "cable" to remain with the wing/struts.
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Old 03-12-2018, 05:28 AM
  #164  
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Decided to ca the silicon keeper into a piece of styrene tubing and then epoxy that into the fuselage.
A drill bit was used to keep the proper alignment for the silicon keeper and to help keep pressure on it during glue up.
To get this to work, the cable is ca'ed into an aluminum tube which is then ca'ed to the next larger size that will slip-fit into the fuel tubing.
Here the cable/aluminum tubes have been inserted into the silicon keeper. The good news is that this works as hoped. It's basically plug and play and should be easy for assembly/disassembly at the field. The bad news is that my diy cable is too stiff so another thread will have to be sourced. I've been given several good ideas so I'll just have to see what I can get.
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:10 AM
  #165  
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It appears that the brakes on the 1:1 are fairly prominent so work was started today on replicating those. I think I will add the caliper, disc and maybe a brake line. This may be the last detail that is added on this model.

The 1:1 attaches the disc to the wheel with a ring (of some sort). This is replicated with 1/32 balsa.


The disc was cut out of .010 styrene.




Middle part cut out and offered up to the wheel/axle. The disc will rotate with the wheel but don't think that will be a problem. Now to work on the caliper again.

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Old 04-10-2018, 02:52 AM
  #166  
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Did a little more work to the brakes. Caliper is just balsa glued to a styrene support that attaches to the axle. The styrene itself doesn't really provide enough attachment to the axle so a balsa or ply packing will be added behind the support which should be sufficiently hidden from view. After looking at the setup it appears that the rotor is a little to "wide" so the inner portion will be trimmed down a bit (if that makes sense).



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Old 04-16-2018, 02:35 PM
  #167  
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The rotors were reduced in "thickness" and the calipers increased a bit to make a more balanced look. Also added caliper bolts from rod styrene. After gluing them onto the caliper, I tried to sand some facets around the edge to simulate a hex bolt. This was just eyeballed as it's really hard to see them at this scale and you can't even hardly see it in the photo.

Played around some with safety wire but not sure if I want to add this after paint as the glue will not be easy to hide.

And finally the brake line into the caliper was added. It will terminate at the bottom of the landing gear fairing. I wanted to add the compression fitting but could not figure out a way to do it with what I have available.



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Old 04-17-2018, 04:07 AM
  #168  
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Got a lot done today.

First off, I couldn't let the compression fitting go, so gave it try. Using 1/8" styrene rod, first the middle was drilled out to accept the brake line and fitting. Then the rod was "painted" with permanent marker to check progress. Then using back of a hobby knife, a hex bolt pattern was scrapped on the rod.

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Then one end was rounded down.

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The first one was too fat, the second (on the right in the photo) being better but still a little "large". But that is the best that could be done. I ended up keeping the first one as well as it's hardy noticeable anyway.

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The a base coat of dark gray was applied. Looking at close up photos of the calipers shows a light but flat color but photos at a farther distance shows the caliper to be a darker gray (due to shadows?). Anyway, I chose to use a darker gray (metallic gray) since this is 1/6th scale. Afterwards, a neutral gray, which looked more tan, was misted over the metallic gray to tone down the sheen and provide a little contrast. It's barely noticeable in the photos.

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Then the rotors were painted in chrome silver. Btw, all of the paints were Tamiya acrylics. They will be clear coated.

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My reference photos show corrosion on the calipers so Tamiya panel line accent was just dabbed on and then immediately removed with a finger. The capillary action of the flat base kept some of the "wash" creating a faint look of corrosion. The photo actually makes it look more prominent than it is.

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I was playing around some with the rotor and tried to reproduce the circular grooves in the rotor using a stiff bristle brush and rotating the wheel. This was somewhat successful. Of course, you'll never see it but maybe something that might look good on a larger scale.

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Finally, the brake lines were painted black (reference photos showed a braided jacket covered in gunk) and the fittings painted a wash of black and then a wash of black/red brown. I considered applying an overall wash but then thought it would get dirty enough through use so won't do that. All that's left is a clear coat.

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I think that pretty much completes the detailing that I will do. Now to the paint shop.
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Old 05-16-2018, 04:46 AM
  #169  
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So, a scheme has been settled on. As I was searching for the "Flight of Passage" Cub, I stumbled on this scheme which has the same N number as the Buck's Cub but is, in reality, a gaming scheme. If a real Cub with this scheme exists, I could not find it. Even though this scheme is for a Super Cub, it struck a chord so I've decided to use it.

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In preparation for the white coat, I wanted to remove the red primer that has been on for 10 years. It quickly became apparent that sanding was not going to do the job. Solvents were considered to try to remove the old primer but, since I couldn't remember what the actual paint is, I didn't want to risk creating further problems with incompatibility and creating a gooey mess. So, it was decided to just paint over the old with Vallejo primer. All that is needed is to cover the red so that not as much white is required for good coverage. The new primer was applied with an Iwata HP-TH (love that airbrush!).

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Old 05-16-2018, 04:48 AM
  #170  
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Before putting the white down, the red sunburst pattern was roughly sketched out on both the wing and fuselage (only the wing is shown). The light pencil marks serve a two-fold purpose (for me). First, in an effort to conserve weight, I didn't want to completely fill in white in the areas that were to later be painted red as that was really not needed. (Also, I was not able to get more white paint in my last trip to Singapore a few days ago because the store was closed for the week so I need to conserve my meager paint resources....as it turns out a single 200ml bottle was enough for the wing/fuselage) Secondly, the light pencil marks help me to determine how much paint to put down. By first covering the marks where I can no longer see them and then filling in the area between, I keep from laying down too much paint which has been a persistent problem in my modeling since I was much younger.

Paper patterns were used to mark out the sunburst. The patterns were flipped for the other half.

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The wing bottom is not shown as it was done about a week ago. It is just a solid white as I thought the contrast between solid color on the bottom and the sunburst on the top would be a good contrast for flying in gray Taiwan skies.

The wing top. Again, Vallejo Premium paint is being used. As can be seen, there is not much difference between the primer gray and the white. As a matter of fact, the white is not all that bright. Consequently, there was no black added to darken the white for scale effects. After the red is added, if it is too bright a couple of drops of black will be added to the clear coat for darkening.

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And fuselage.

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I must say, this Vallejo Premium paint is very good. It shoots very easily from both an airbrush and a mini-paint gun with no reducing required. Also, it flows very nicely. There were a couple of spots that looked like there would be some fish-eye developing but the paint just flowed out to a nice, smooth finish. imho, the sheen is perfect for a warbird. Since this is a civilian model, I will most likely have to spray a thin gloss coat when done to create more of a shine.
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Old 05-25-2018, 02:25 PM
  #171  
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Got some color on the Cub. Did have some bleed-through issues which I've pretty much sorted out.





In this shot, I hadn't sprayed the mid-fuselage stripe yet. N-numbers next.

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Old 05-10-2019, 01:33 AM
  #172  
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I don’t visit RCU much anymore so I have been remiss in posting updates to the Cub. Anyway, I wanted to post that the Cub was finished and has been maidened. I’m posting photos of the first trip to the field where she did not maiden due to engine problems. The video, however, is of the maiden.

[img]blob:http://www.rcuniverse.com/80dfa014-7...3-90c75b3c04e3

[img]blob:http://www.rcuniverse.com/154da490-5...f-e567172a9d01

[img]blob:http://www.rcuniverse.com/c341c70c-e...0-3ee4eb61dca0

[img]blob:http://www.rcuniverse.com/6e96f54e-f...4-44389d2d1eee

[img]blob:http://www.rcuniverse.com/782f0029-6...5-e38aefb17c41

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yEz7Ia...ature=youtu.be



Edit: my apologies for the lack of photos. I guess my uploading ability is impaired, one of the reasons I don’t visit here much. I’ll try to get them loaded somehow.

Last edited by tubig; 05-10-2019 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 05-11-2019, 01:59 PM
  #173  
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I gave up trying to edit the last post to get the photos uploaded so I'll put them here.





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Old 05-12-2019, 05:03 AM
  #174  
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Excellent job! A Cub that isn't Yellow. Go figure!

This kit has been a favorite for centuries. And your build makes it easy to see why.
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:49 AM
  #175  
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Thanks Appowner! Sorry for the late reply (I never received an email notification of your post). The kit does turn out to make a nice scale model. So nice, in fact, that I’ve picked up the 1/4 scale clipped wing version. But, it may be a while before I get to it.
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