Monokote is history
07-26-2002, 05:22 PM
#57
Monokote is history
Hi Ben --
No, there always seems to be something on the day of the fun fly. This year a relative who lives out west and who I hadn't seen for a few years was in Harrisburg, so I was there instead. It's been a few years since I got to one, though I would like to.
This weekend is a fun-fly at Mulligan Hill (which is a bit further up the road from us -- almost up by route 22), but I might be on the road for this one, too.
Did you get to the Johnstown fun fly? I hear we had a great crowd this year.
No, there always seems to be something on the day of the fun fly. This year a relative who lives out west and who I hadn't seen for a few years was in Harrisburg, so I was there instead. It's been a few years since I got to one, though I would like to.
This weekend is a fun-fly at Mulligan Hill (which is a bit further up the road from us -- almost up by route 22), but I might be on the road for this one, too.
Did you get to the Johnstown fun fly? I hear we had a great crowd this year.
07-26-2002, 05:58 PM
#58
Monokote is history
There was a good crowd at J-town. Perfect weather. I'd like to go to mulligan hill this weekend, but I don't think the weather is going to cooperate. If I do make it I'll probably take the edge pictured above, so if you're there look me up.
Ben
Ben
07-28-2002, 04:49 PM
#61
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Union City, TN
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Monokote is history
HL has been selling oracover for years. My first plane was covered in it and it was my first covering experence. It is heavier than monokote or ultra coat and it is also tougher than either. I find it about the same to use as ultra coat. Oracover also has a paper backing.
After I learned to use monokote properly I never went back to oracover or ultra coat. I just have less problems with monokote coming up around the edges.
07-29-2002, 01:21 AM
#64
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Union City, TN
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Monokote is history
RAJUL
In my experence that is the case. Once monokote is sealed it stays sealed, ultracoat is more prone to coming up especialy if you make a repair that leaves a seam facing the oncoming wind in flight. This is also the case with designs made of ultracoat going on over esisting covering.
I digress! If you have good luck with ultracoat-oracover use it!! It is much easier to use than monokote in that it shrinks more and hides a sloppy inital covering job. Everone should also be aware that the transparent ultracoat is like using monokote! If you make a sloppy covering job it won't shrink up like regular ultracoat.
In my experence that is the case. Once monokote is sealed it stays sealed, ultracoat is more prone to coming up especialy if you make a repair that leaves a seam facing the oncoming wind in flight. This is also the case with designs made of ultracoat going on over esisting covering.
I digress! If you have good luck with ultracoat-oracover use it!! It is much easier to use than monokote in that it shrinks more and hides a sloppy inital covering job. Everone should also be aware that the transparent ultracoat is like using monokote! If you make a sloppy covering job it won't shrink up like regular ultracoat.
07-29-2002, 02:02 AM
#65
Monokote is history
Hi uci, have you tried sealing the edges, whether monokote or ultracote, using lusterkote clear spray ? I heard it works really well against fuel and windex which can attack the adhesive. I am trying it out myself. Need to spray two-three light coatings with masking tape........... 
07-30-2002, 12:59 AM
#68
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Union City, TN
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Monokote is history
Let me seeee hummmm. 
Formula 44D, Windex, bargan basment window cleaner, isopropal alcohol, but the best I have found as far as making a covering job look good is Armourall auto window cleaner! It is formulated for the film that is used on tinted windows and doesn't contain amonia! The guy who tinted my car windows said never use windex etc. on the tint film, that it would break it down! Soo I thought one day, I bet this stuff would be good on monokote covered airplanes and boy is it ever!!!!
If I ever have to make a repair and stick new covering over old I always use acetone to do a final cleaning and I have never had it come up!
Like I said further back everone should use what suits them best, but I would definatly stay away from the cheep coverings! They pull wind, if you know what I mean?
Formula 44D, Windex, bargan basment window cleaner, isopropal alcohol, but the best I have found as far as making a covering job look good is Armourall auto window cleaner! It is formulated for the film that is used on tinted windows and doesn't contain amonia! The guy who tinted my car windows said never use windex etc. on the tint film, that it would break it down! Soo I thought one day, I bet this stuff would be good on monokote covered airplanes and boy is it ever!!!!
If I ever have to make a repair and stick new covering over old I always use acetone to do a final cleaning and I have never had it come up!
Like I said further back everone should use what suits them best, but I would definatly stay away from the cheep coverings! They pull wind, if you know what I mean?
07-30-2002, 11:53 AM
#69
Monokote is history
UC -- I think you're mistaken about the weight... Being a builder, I use Oracover and Monoccote and both my experience and all of the published numbers I've seen say that Oracover is considerably lighter than Monocote.
07-30-2002, 02:01 PM
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Anchorage,
AK
Posts: 2,565
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Weight
I'm always interested in weights of "stuff". Top Flite says that the Monokote opaques weigh 1.8 ounces per square yard, and that some of the semi-transparent and transparent colors weigh less.
Why don't those of you who know what the other stuff weighs post it here? This suggestion isn't for the sake of argument, but just to compare notes. It might actually be relevant on a large plane.
For comparison, a light fiberglass finish, using .75 oz. cloth should weigh 1.5 ounces per square yard, but of course you then add primer and paint.
Why don't those of you who know what the other stuff weighs post it here? This suggestion isn't for the sake of argument, but just to compare notes. It might actually be relevant on a large plane.
For comparison, a light fiberglass finish, using .75 oz. cloth should weigh 1.5 ounces per square yard, but of course you then add primer and paint.
07-30-2002, 03:23 PM
#71
Monokote is history
Here's some of what I've harvested... I'd love to verify the numbers but haven't (units are oz/sq yd):
In fact, now that I look at it, I guess the new oracover may be light, but the old oracover was heavier than monocote... kinda forgot that. (Sorry 'bout that UC.)
I love micafilm, but you have to be careful with its weight numbers because the adhesive can soak into balsa and throw your estimates off significantly if you're not careful.
Code:
Monocote opaque 2-1/4
Monocote transparent 1-2/3
Oracover opaque(old ultra) 2-1/3
Oracover Lite (new ultra) 1-1/8
Micafilm white 1-1/4
Micafilm transparent 2/3
I love micafilm, but you have to be careful with its weight numbers because the adhesive can soak into balsa and throw your estimates off significantly if you're not careful.
07-31-2002, 05:03 AM
#72
Monokote is history
My complaint is that I've used only MonoKote for all of my models since I started building CL planes in the late 60's. I've become fairly proficient with it and do pretty good covering jobs knowing what I can and can't do with it. To try another brand only opens up a Pandora's box and I have to learn the characteristics of the new the covering material. With MonoKote, selecting the correct heat for what you are doing is important. Better to start low and work up. As well, don't rush. When you think how long a silk and dope covering job would take, the time it takes to get any plastic film on good is still saving a lot of time. Covering is one of my greatest joys, I really like doing it. I started instructing my g/f on how to cover her LT-40 and before I knew it, she was covering better than some I've seen on the field. Also, she wanted to complete the covering process, she was having so much fun with it. Sigh.
So, someday I'm just going to pick a not too important model and try another brand and see how it reacts. Or maybe ask friends if they would like to swap some different covering films to just try on some test pieces.
Good flying, Tom
So, someday I'm just going to pick a not too important model and try another brand and see how it reacts. Or maybe ask friends if they would like to swap some different covering films to just try on some test pieces.
Good flying, Tom
07-31-2002, 02:12 PM
#73
My Feedback: (45)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bartlett,
TN
Posts: 4,811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Monokote is history
Originally posted by flyer-2
I have a Byron's Pitts Special to recover. Will ultracote work on the foam? And how would I apply it?
Thanks
Flyer-2
I have a Byron's Pitts Special to recover. Will ultracote work on the foam? And how would I apply it?
Thanks
Flyer-2
07-31-2002, 02:17 PM
#74
Monokote is history
Originally posted by Tom Nied
I've used only MonoKote for all of my models since I started building CL planes in the late 60's. I've become fairly proficient with it and do pretty good covering jobs
I've used only MonoKote for all of my models since I started building CL planes in the late 60's. I've become fairly proficient with it and do pretty good covering jobs
08-01-2002, 12:59 AM
#75
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ajax, ON,
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Monokote is history
I had a friend help me finish off a plane with Ultracoat. He has always used Monokote and loves the finish and the adhesion. Well, he hated the Ultracoat that he put on my plane. The edges didn't seal and it kept pulling away. He will definitely stay with Monokote and being a new builder, I will go that route also.