somethin extra
#2
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Hawthorne, CA
Posts: 5,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: somethin extra
Try searching "Somethin Extra", "Sig SE" and any other variation you think of. There is a ton of info already posted on this plane in Kit and ARF forms. After doing some reading, if you have specific questions people will be happy to help you out.
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (11)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Oregon, IL
Posts: 917
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: somethin extra
Just do a search and there is 3 years worth of information on the SE. One can build and fly the SE in a week if you have building experance, 2 weeks if you are a newbe to building. CA, kicker, and some 30 min epoxy is all you need to build this great flying bird.
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (97)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Billings,
MO
Posts: 921
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: somethin extra
I put the wings together in one day, fuse the next, and mounted motor and electonics the third. I think it took longer to put the covering on then built the dang thing. Simple as 123. Good luck with it......................
#6
RE: somethin extra
Currently in the process of putting my Somethin' kit together. This is the first lazer cut kit I have worked with and boy does it make the difference. After reading about it here I got the confidence to try it out, and it does build as fast and easy as people claim.
Just follow the instruction and build on a straight surface, its that easy.
Good luck on your progress and keep us posted.
mj147
Just follow the instruction and build on a straight surface, its that easy.
Good luck on your progress and keep us posted.
mj147
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orem,
UT
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: somethin extra
Here are the most common tips and modifications. A tailwheel bracket is much stronger, like a Sullivan, saves your rudder on hard landings. Fuse doublers, use a thin film of wood glue, almost impossible to get CA on fast enough on the entire surface. You can use an 8 oz round tank to get in and out easier, but regular works good also. I used the Great Planes axles, you have to drill the hole much larger, but man do the wheels spin nice! My kit I left the wheelpants off, but when I got the arf, I added them for more weight, and like the clean look they have. Dont think you have to glue the tail to the plane first as the destructions say, before covering, much easier to cover flat, then trim away glue surface, thats how the arf comes anyway. I added an inch to the front of the rudder, and the top for a counterbalance, while not really needed for normal flight, will assist in better knife edges later when your ready to ring it out! If your not going to get real crazy, some leave the tailbraces off to save weight, I am building some soon out of carbon fiber rod, will be light and look cool! ALSO I used Gold-n-Rod control cables, they are real nice, they are a little stiffer, more smooth and hold up longer, but my arf had the factory ones and they work good too. You may like to attach the canopy with 4 small screws and silicone washers rather than try to trim and glue the entire surface at once, I liked that part of the arf. I also noticed if you glue the back part of the hatch cover to the canopy bubble, it doesnt flex much and makes it hard to get the cover off and on. Follow the instructions, dont be afraid to add a little epoxy to glue firewalls, servo trays, landing gear block, some even use nylon screws for landing gear so it will shear instead of tearing the block section from the fuse. Oh also set the initial throws, or at least the low rate half of what they suggest, that little bugger can get away from you easy, as you can be seen by my kit remains in my gallery. Hope some of this helps, covering takes a little time, give it good markings to tell top from bottom and GOOD LUCK< let us know how you fair!
PS forgot to mention, gluing the sheeting on the leading edges of the wings can be a little bit of a pain, some sheets dont want to bend, (same with hatch cover)dont be afraid to us a damp washcloth layed on the wood for a few minutes, you dont need it soaking wet, but a little moisture sure makes it bend better. Balsa filler also makes the covering job look better, fill any low spots, scratches, the extra slots below/above where your cables exit the fuse at the tail. Keep it light, try not to add weight to balance CG. I had to make a hatch under my fuel tank for my battery on my ARF because it was a little tail heavy. WOW now that I read all this, I see why the arf, although a little pricey, is a time saver!
PS forgot to mention, gluing the sheeting on the leading edges of the wings can be a little bit of a pain, some sheets dont want to bend, (same with hatch cover)dont be afraid to us a damp washcloth layed on the wood for a few minutes, you dont need it soaking wet, but a little moisture sure makes it bend better. Balsa filler also makes the covering job look better, fill any low spots, scratches, the extra slots below/above where your cables exit the fuse at the tail. Keep it light, try not to add weight to balance CG. I had to make a hatch under my fuel tank for my battery on my ARF because it was a little tail heavy. WOW now that I read all this, I see why the arf, although a little pricey, is a time saver!