speedy bee
#2
RE: speedy bee
Check with hobby people or global dist. I believe they are the current distributors of Andy Clanceys stuff.
You will love the speedy. It flys great with a os26 4str.
You will love the speedy. It flys great with a os26 4str.
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clover, SC
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: speedy bee
I believe I acquired mine from hobby people. I agree with PAR. You will love this little plane. I used the os .15 fp off my lazy bee on the speedy bee. It flew great (of course I am interested in airplanes not rockets nothing against PAR's engine choice as it is also excellent. I just know people who would try to put a .40 on it for unlimited vertical...)
#4
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sarnia, ON, CANADA
Posts: 966
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: speedy bee
Yes a Speedy Bee is a Special sort of plane that you can really get attached too and you really regret loosing it...
See;
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/In_M...1861404/tm.htm
and you might understand.
See;
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/In_M...1861404/tm.htm
and you might understand.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: 10,000ft,
CO
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
My Feedback: (5)
RE: speedy bee
I have a OS .15 FP in my Speedy Bee. Personally my feeling is a larger engine would be too much. I fly the Speedy Bee in all weather including wind, and it does fine with the .15 . Of course other people have different ideas on what they want their plane to do. I guess I'm getting old .
Something else. I'm not sure how much building experience you have, but once you have the plans you might want to work on a different way to attach the wing to the fuse. I built mine per plans and used two #64 rubber bands tied together to stretch across the span of the wing to hold the wing to the fuse. Of course I used multiple rubber bands tied together...you get the idea. Anyhow, I hate rubber bands and wish I had figured a way to bolt the wing on. Clancy really likes rubber bands. You should see how many he uses in his Stagger Bee . Just something to consider before you start building .
Something else. I'm not sure how much building experience you have, but once you have the plans you might want to work on a different way to attach the wing to the fuse. I built mine per plans and used two #64 rubber bands tied together to stretch across the span of the wing to hold the wing to the fuse. Of course I used multiple rubber bands tied together...you get the idea. Anyhow, I hate rubber bands and wish I had figured a way to bolt the wing on. Clancy really likes rubber bands. You should see how many he uses in his Stagger Bee . Just something to consider before you start building .
#13
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sarnia, ON, CANADA
Posts: 966
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: speedy bee
I have to agree with Bolar on the engine size. I used an OS .20 and had a riot with the plane until I tore the Tail Off coming out of a Split S. The plans say that a .20 is OK but the plane is definately designed to fly electric (read slow ...or slower than a .20)
As to the elimination of the elastics that will bee an engineering feat of no small proportion. The design of the plane does NOT lend itself to an easy solution. I have a few radical ideas but then you start messing with the weight of the plane and this bird is designed to be LIGHT! (back to the Electric concept) If you do add too much to the plane you won't get off of the ground or it'll tear apart in flight because the wings cannot take the stress.
With all of that said; I is a great plane that flies extremely well, you just have to stay within the flight envelope.
As to the elimination of the elastics that will bee an engineering feat of no small proportion. The design of the plane does NOT lend itself to an easy solution. I have a few radical ideas but then you start messing with the weight of the plane and this bird is designed to be LIGHT! (back to the Electric concept) If you do add too much to the plane you won't get off of the ground or it'll tear apart in flight because the wings cannot take the stress.
With all of that said; I is a great plane that flies extremely well, you just have to stay within the flight envelope.
#14
My Feedback: (5)
RE: speedy bee
I had the idea for eliminating the rubber bands. Using a dowel or small dowels that go from the back rest into the turtle deck to hold down the back of the wing. Next use small nylon bolts that go up from the bottom of the front fuse into top of the wing (would that be called a nacelle?) just behind the firewall. It's something I was thinking about after the fact. A set-up like what I described shouldn't add too much weight , not sure.
If anyone has done anything different, jump on the pile and tell us how you did it .
If anyone has done anything different, jump on the pile and tell us how you did it .
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: east hartford ,
CT
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: speedy bee
wasnt sure what motor glad i asked was going to put a 30 os four stroke but after all this i think a good small brushless and lipo packs would be realy good for this plane. does anyone know the finished weight of theirs so i have a good refrence
#16
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sarnia, ON, CANADA
Posts: 966
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: speedy bee
Bolar;
Your plan has potential; BUT (there is always a but) stop and think about the stresses of the flight.
You will have too 'Beef' up the turtle deck considerably (both sides) before you add the dowels. Currently all that is there is some 1/16" balsa, this is NOT going to hold the wing onto the fuse if any stress is applied. The same is true behind the firewall, a lot of 1/16" construction, it's all just fine until you start modifying. In order to make your idea work you should add the "Stronger Pieces" during construction - retrofits are such a pain.
As to the best method to remove elastics from the Speedy - that is all a matter of opinion - whichever works for you is just fine.
I started by installing Shock absorbers in the landing gear instead of the elastics, I found that I was getting too much drag from the grass. Shocks can be made for under $5.00 and they are worth every cent! IMHO!
Your plan has potential; BUT (there is always a but) stop and think about the stresses of the flight.
You will have too 'Beef' up the turtle deck considerably (both sides) before you add the dowels. Currently all that is there is some 1/16" balsa, this is NOT going to hold the wing onto the fuse if any stress is applied. The same is true behind the firewall, a lot of 1/16" construction, it's all just fine until you start modifying. In order to make your idea work you should add the "Stronger Pieces" during construction - retrofits are such a pain.
As to the best method to remove elastics from the Speedy - that is all a matter of opinion - whichever works for you is just fine.
I started by installing Shock absorbers in the landing gear instead of the elastics, I found that I was getting too much drag from the grass. Shocks can be made for under $5.00 and they are worth every cent! IMHO!
#17
My Feedback: (5)
RE: speedy bee
rokevin,
I'm not sure how much mine weighs. I did build it light and tried to put the lightest possible wood where I could. It is a very sturdy plane and has taken everything I have dished out with out so much as a crack.
If you know your way around electrics it certainly would make a good candidate. I'm still stuck on glow .
bbbair,
Yes there would have to be some beefing up in those areas. The area behind the the seat and the turtle deck I was thinking of 1/8 or maybe 1/16 ply. The same for the area behind the fire wall. If careful not too much more weight gain would be added. Those rubbers have some weight themselves, it might even out . Anyhow mine is done, and I'm stuck with rubber bands .
I'm not sure how much mine weighs. I did build it light and tried to put the lightest possible wood where I could. It is a very sturdy plane and has taken everything I have dished out with out so much as a crack.
If you know your way around electrics it certainly would make a good candidate. I'm still stuck on glow .
bbbair,
Yes there would have to be some beefing up in those areas. The area behind the the seat and the turtle deck I was thinking of 1/8 or maybe 1/16 ply. The same for the area behind the fire wall. If careful not too much more weight gain would be added. Those rubbers have some weight themselves, it might even out . Anyhow mine is done, and I'm stuck with rubber bands .
#18
Senior Member
My Feedback: (25)
RE: speedy bee
Sorry but I don,t agree. I've got a Saito 300 Twin on mine and I love the verticle performance. I just pull it back to 1/4 throttle for level flight. Speedy Bees are'nt built for speed.
Oh, I increased the size of mine to 80" Span (29" Chord) and the weight increased slightly to 14 lbs. It's one of my favorite planes to fly and my very first scratch build. Hoping to get floats on it soon and get it wet.
Oh, I increased the size of mine to 80" Span (29" Chord) and the weight increased slightly to 14 lbs. It's one of my favorite planes to fly and my very first scratch build. Hoping to get floats on it soon and get it wet.
#22
My Feedback: (2)
RE: speedy bee
I have a set of plans for scratch building....it is a very easy build.
I have had Speedy Bees for years. It is one of my favorite planes. I have had them glow and electric. I had one with an OS 40 FS and my latest has a Phasor 30 in it. It is just too fun. My current Speedy Bee will hover. I pisses the 3D guys when I pull up beside them in a hover.
Good luck finding a kit...they are hard to find now. I would jsut scratch build. THE NEW ARF ONES ARE CRAP!!!! DONT BUY IT!!!!!
Attached are some of my Bees.... Scractch building a Clancy kit is the ONLY true way to "Bee-dom" NOW!
Dave
I have had Speedy Bees for years. It is one of my favorite planes. I have had them glow and electric. I had one with an OS 40 FS and my latest has a Phasor 30 in it. It is just too fun. My current Speedy Bee will hover. I pisses the 3D guys when I pull up beside them in a hover.
Good luck finding a kit...they are hard to find now. I would jsut scratch build. THE NEW ARF ONES ARE CRAP!!!! DONT BUY IT!!!!!
Attached are some of my Bees.... Scractch building a Clancy kit is the ONLY true way to "Bee-dom" NOW!
Dave
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Oakdale, MN
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: speedy bee
I have a speedy bee but it just doesn't fly as good as what you guys say. I haven't been impressed with it BUT I might have something set up wrong so can anyone help. When I use the ailerons to make a turn the nose drops horribly and it takes all the up elevator I can give it to keep it fairly level and then it still wants to drop out of the sky. Also, when I throttle back and try to horizontal hover (not vertical hover) in place with say about a 10 mph wind I have to once again give it all the up elevator I can to keep the nose up and at that point the plane is at an extreme angel (but not close to vertical). My balance point is right on according to the plans. I would sure love any suggestions or help to get my Speedy Bee flying as good as you guys say they fly!