Something Extra Hardware
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Something Extra Hardware
Now that I'm installing the control hardeware and electronics, now I realise why everybody throws them away, what a peice of junk[:'(], I don't like the setup with the nylon tube 2/56 rods at the ends. Can I just install 2/56 rod by itself for the full length or flex cable?, my concern with the flex cable is of course, the flexing at the ends. I'm kinda late in the game to do a whole new setup, the plane is built and covered. Any sudgestions?, from now on, I won't wast my time with kit supplied hardware.
Joe
Joe
#2
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
I put my servos in the back of the fuse, just infront of the tail. With a little care they can be placed so they both sit flush with the fuse side. I did this after I had flown it several times. It can be done with minor "patching" of the covering.
If you don't want to go that route, I've seen a couple use wire inside the tube, I think it makes for a lot of extra drag on the servo, but it does work.
If you don't want to go that route, I've seen a couple use wire inside the tube, I think it makes for a lot of extra drag on the servo, but it does work.
#3
RE: Something Extra Hardware
For the rudder and elevator on mine, I just slipped 2-56 rods into the sleaves and threw away the nylon rods. On the throttle though, I kept the cable because the sleeve is too small to fit a 2-56 rod. I did put a support for the throttle cable sleeve at the front of the servo tray to stabilize it and keep it from moving sideways. (Hope this answers your question.)
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
Thanks for the replies, I was thinking on going with the 2/56 rod by itself, seem that it will be much sturdier and less chances of control rod failure.
Joe[8D]
Joe[8D]
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
For what it's worth, the ARF version uses Nylon rods and is almost useless as installed per the instructions. BUT, if you reverse the rods in their sleeves so the long wire end is at the rear, they work just great. It's been brought to SIG's attention, but they must be happy with what they got because they haven't changed it.
quint
quint
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
What I do to combat this is use 2/56 threaded rod (allthread). I thread a piece with my drill into the front and rear of the inner rod. I thread enough so that it will go all the way inside the plane. I hook the clevises up to the ends sticking out. Really stiffens them up.
BTW I understand what you are saying I throw the push rods out on SIG kits myself. I only use Sullivan Golden Rods. I do sometimes use the SIG ones for a throttle hook up. They flex nice around obsticles. Good luck with your project.
Mark Shuman
BTW I understand what you are saying I throw the push rods out on SIG kits myself. I only use Sullivan Golden Rods. I do sometimes use the SIG ones for a throttle hook up. They flex nice around obsticles. Good luck with your project.
Mark Shuman
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
WhooHoo, I went and bought some long rods and hooked them up, wow, what a diffrence, no binding what so ever, smooth control, thanks for all your help, going to maiden on the 4th of July.
Joe[8D]
Joe[8D]
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
For whats it worth I threw away the stock rods included with the kit and installed Sullivan Gold-n-Rods. They are a very good product with very little temperature expansion/contraction.
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
I was going to put full length 2/56 rod in mine, but it just wasn't as smooth as I wanted. I went with the metric size that is slightly smaller than 2/56.
The only concern here, is that you will need a metric clevis. Or, if you use the black hayes clevis's with the steel pin, they will work. They are very tight on 2/56, and work well with the metric rod and won't strip out.
The only concern here, is that you will need a metric clevis. Or, if you use the black hayes clevis's with the steel pin, they will work. They are very tight on 2/56, and work well with the metric rod and won't strip out.
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
I used full length 2-56 rods in mine. To get them to slide smooth without any slop cut up a bunch of 1/4" lengths of inner nyrod and slide them over the 2-56, then glue in place every 6 inches or so. This is a technique that GP uses in a lot of kits, the pieces of nyrod form bushings to keep the solid rod centered in the outer tube.
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RE: Something Extra Hardware
Thanks for all the advise, got it working smooth, wouldn't know how to do it without RCU, now I have to figure out how to set up the flaperons[:@], in another thread
Joe[8D]
Joe[8D]