Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
ORIGINAL: rmadsen
As promised, here are some before and after pics...
As promised, here are some before and after pics...
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Thanks for the complements and flying wires tip. I think I'll go with the golden cables all around. I should blend in well with the yellow.
I'm getting way ahead of schedule. The weather here has been "highs in the 20s", so I can slow down a little. I still have a couple of months to get the engine broken in before the weather breaks. Guess it's getting close to the time to pick up some fuel and wake up the neighbors .
I'm getting way ahead of schedule. The weather here has been "highs in the 20s", so I can slow down a little. I still have a couple of months to get the engine broken in before the weather breaks. Guess it's getting close to the time to pick up some fuel and wake up the neighbors .
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Just a quick post for rmadsen and stevo for comparison. I had a good picture, all most the same angle of my wing a few month back as I was fixing some damage from a not so graceful hammer head stall at the end of the runway. This is just my little Global SD ARF.
EDIT (really board can't sleep ) Just a little Photo Styler touch up Rmadsen's wing and again in reverse color
Looking good you guys.
Terry
Junkboy999
EDIT (really board can't sleep ) Just a little Photo Styler touch up Rmadsen's wing and again in reverse color
Looking good you guys.
Terry
Junkboy999
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Well, it warmed up a bit today... I did get in a bit of work on my Decathlon. Bomb doors. Whew! They are clam shell type and I'm doing them in under the back window which puts them in that final tapered down area. Lots of little bits and fitting. Angles angles and more angles... but they are coming our really nice.
Meanwhile, during one of the glue drying moment, I pulled out the 'bleach bottle' parts. Looking them over.. I'm questioning just where to cut them. Is it really just a little bit of overlap from the front to the top and bottom parts? And it looks like one of the top and bottom part gets cut high on one side and then the other gets cuts low? Odd. I would have expected them to be the same.
Well, I guess I'll mess with these to see if I can get a half decent cowling. Otherwise I might just punt and order the nice fiberglass one.
Gee, if I can get by the bomb bay stuff... I think I might be able to start rolling along again. It's just not that much more before covering, at which point I can move back inside!
Meanwhile, during one of the glue drying moment, I pulled out the 'bleach bottle' parts. Looking them over.. I'm questioning just where to cut them. Is it really just a little bit of overlap from the front to the top and bottom parts? And it looks like one of the top and bottom part gets cut high on one side and then the other gets cuts low? Odd. I would have expected them to be the same.
Well, I guess I'll mess with these to see if I can get a half decent cowling. Otherwise I might just punt and order the nice fiberglass one.
Gee, if I can get by the bomb bay stuff... I think I might be able to start rolling along again. It's just not that much more before covering, at which point I can move back inside!
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
I started to do the sheeting on my right wing, boy did I get a bad bunch of bad sheeding wood. Hope I have some on hand to work with. The rest of the wood in the kit was fine.
Ken
Ken
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
ORIGINAL: box car
I started to do the sheeting on my right wing, boy did I get a bad bunch of bad sheeding wood. Hope I have some on hand to work with. The rest of the wood in the kit was fine.
Ken
I started to do the sheeting on my right wing, boy did I get a bad bunch of bad sheeding wood. Hope I have some on hand to work with. The rest of the wood in the kit was fine.
Ken
About the only thing I can say about the wood, is that all of my balsa was really exceptional. Amazingly true. The stamped ply parts would obviously be better if they were lazer cut and perhaps the dies were getting just a tab bit dull or something as it was a bit rough. The die cut balsa however was cut cleanly. And I'm being really picky when I say that about the ply. I guess once you have all the dies made, it's a lot cheaper to run per part than a lazer cutter. I wonder if they ever think about switching to lazer once a die begins to wear out/dull out?
The idea of using thin CA to glue things like the fuse bottom to sides... well, if one has an extra hour or two, I suppose you might be able to sand it all to a good fit.... or just use medium. Otherwise using thin.... well, I remember that song "I......... fall to piecessssssss.
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Well I gota stick my .02 in about the wood in this kit. Or lack thereof..........I was missing a complete fuse side in my kit. Needless to say I didnt check my kit contents when I started. Oh well.
But thats like doing the last guys job at the factory before the box was closed up. He should have been the one who made sure it was all in there!!!
I used the other side as a template and cut my own out of lite ply. Which imho is a MUCH more high quality piece than the original. I personally did not care for ANY of the ply in this kit. Yes the dies used to cut were dull, but that did not make the wood bad. All the ply was rather grainy and weak. Nowhere near the quality Ive seen used in other kits. My last winters build was a sig cub kit, and this kit absolutely PALES in comparison for what you get in that box.
Another complaint is the scale factor............... you look at the description of this thing......... fun scale. EXACTLY what it is. Other than genreral shape, it really dont look much like its full scale counterpart. So many things are wrong.... I dont know where to start. Ive tried to make some adjustments to my own, but other than completly scrapping out the fuse and starting over, theres not a whole lot more that can be done.
I dont have any complaints about the sheeting or any of the stick balsa though. That stuff was all okay.
So in conclusion to my novel................its not a horrible kit for the money. It dont nail the scale factor or the quality factor, but it is a BIG kit for $170......
If you want a top quality kit that will not disappoint.... buy something from sig........
(disclaimer..... none of this rant will take away from my enjoyment of completing and flying this plane)
But thats like doing the last guys job at the factory before the box was closed up. He should have been the one who made sure it was all in there!!!
I used the other side as a template and cut my own out of lite ply. Which imho is a MUCH more high quality piece than the original. I personally did not care for ANY of the ply in this kit. Yes the dies used to cut were dull, but that did not make the wood bad. All the ply was rather grainy and weak. Nowhere near the quality Ive seen used in other kits. My last winters build was a sig cub kit, and this kit absolutely PALES in comparison for what you get in that box.
Another complaint is the scale factor............... you look at the description of this thing......... fun scale. EXACTLY what it is. Other than genreral shape, it really dont look much like its full scale counterpart. So many things are wrong.... I dont know where to start. Ive tried to make some adjustments to my own, but other than completly scrapping out the fuse and starting over, theres not a whole lot more that can be done.
I dont have any complaints about the sheeting or any of the stick balsa though. That stuff was all okay.
So in conclusion to my novel................its not a horrible kit for the money. It dont nail the scale factor or the quality factor, but it is a BIG kit for $170......
If you want a top quality kit that will not disappoint.... buy something from sig........
(disclaimer..... none of this rant will take away from my enjoyment of completing and flying this plane)
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
re: The cowling and pants.
I studied these quite a bit and never quite understood how they fit until I started cutting. The 'cutting lines' on the cowl were pretty clear. I'm probably not going to be able to describe this real well... The top and bottom of the cowl fit with about 1/4 overlapping joints. One side of the joint is a little 'lowered' so that, when fitted, the outside should be flat. The front section then slips over the top & bottom. At the front, the top and bottom are 'lowered' and the front should slip on. I do recall that at one of the 3-part joints the lowered parts was wrong and I re-bent it as good as I could to fit properly.
I trial fitted quite a lot using tape to hold it together then started dropping SMALL drops of thin CA in various locations while squeezing the parts together. I use strips of plan protector between the cowl and my fingers. Then proceeded to put more thin CA along the joints - again holding them pretty tight. When finished, I layed some glass strips over all the joints from the inside and sealed with epoxy thinned will alcohol. Also put some where the mounting holes will be. I did not use bondo to hind the seams. I followed someone else's recommendation to leave the outside alone and they look okay.
The wheel pants were another story. I couldn't quite see the entire cut lines. I ended up with an overlaping 'seam' cross most of the top. The bottoms have smaller overlapping joints towards the front and rear. You'll have to cut out the wheel hole before glueing. There is NO joint wrapping the nose and tail of the pants. My cutting wasn't very pretty, so some bondo was necessary. Again strengthen the entire seam, all the way around, with glass and epoxy.
I knew I was not going to be able to match the yellow covering with spray paint, so I attempted to 'cover' the top of the cowl with towerkote. It sort of worked. Since the top of the cowl has that bump down the middle, I had to 'shrink' it with the gun - real low heat to prevent melting the cowl itself. I made quite a mess, and eneded up poking a lot of pin holes to remove all the major bubbles. There are still alot of small ones - but at 6' it looks okay. I posted a pic a few posts back.
re: Kit quality. I really have to say my ply and balsa were just fine. All the parts released very neatly. Perhaps I was lucky to have my kit die cut earlier int he run than others.
I studied these quite a bit and never quite understood how they fit until I started cutting. The 'cutting lines' on the cowl were pretty clear. I'm probably not going to be able to describe this real well... The top and bottom of the cowl fit with about 1/4 overlapping joints. One side of the joint is a little 'lowered' so that, when fitted, the outside should be flat. The front section then slips over the top & bottom. At the front, the top and bottom are 'lowered' and the front should slip on. I do recall that at one of the 3-part joints the lowered parts was wrong and I re-bent it as good as I could to fit properly.
I trial fitted quite a lot using tape to hold it together then started dropping SMALL drops of thin CA in various locations while squeezing the parts together. I use strips of plan protector between the cowl and my fingers. Then proceeded to put more thin CA along the joints - again holding them pretty tight. When finished, I layed some glass strips over all the joints from the inside and sealed with epoxy thinned will alcohol. Also put some where the mounting holes will be. I did not use bondo to hind the seams. I followed someone else's recommendation to leave the outside alone and they look okay.
The wheel pants were another story. I couldn't quite see the entire cut lines. I ended up with an overlaping 'seam' cross most of the top. The bottoms have smaller overlapping joints towards the front and rear. You'll have to cut out the wheel hole before glueing. There is NO joint wrapping the nose and tail of the pants. My cutting wasn't very pretty, so some bondo was necessary. Again strengthen the entire seam, all the way around, with glass and epoxy.
I knew I was not going to be able to match the yellow covering with spray paint, so I attempted to 'cover' the top of the cowl with towerkote. It sort of worked. Since the top of the cowl has that bump down the middle, I had to 'shrink' it with the gun - real low heat to prevent melting the cowl itself. I made quite a mess, and eneded up poking a lot of pin holes to remove all the major bubbles. There are still alot of small ones - but at 6' it looks okay. I posted a pic a few posts back.
re: Kit quality. I really have to say my ply and balsa were just fine. All the parts released very neatly. Perhaps I was lucky to have my kit die cut earlier int he run than others.
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Good Day, Gentlemen!
I do love a kit building and so have outfitted myself with one of these Decathlons. I am still wondering about the engine to put on it. I have looked at many different 40cc engines, but I must say that I have been thinking about a DL 50 or Area 51 engine. Even though these engines are quite a bit more than is called for, the weights are similar or maybe even lighter than some 40 cc classed alternatives. I know that many will say that there is not enough prop clearance for the 22X8 prop going on this size engine, but perhaps a three bladed prop will work here, or a smaller diameter and larger pitch something in the 12 range of pitch maybe. What do you guys think?
I do love a kit building and so have outfitted myself with one of these Decathlons. I am still wondering about the engine to put on it. I have looked at many different 40cc engines, but I must say that I have been thinking about a DL 50 or Area 51 engine. Even though these engines are quite a bit more than is called for, the weights are similar or maybe even lighter than some 40 cc classed alternatives. I know that many will say that there is not enough prop clearance for the 22X8 prop going on this size engine, but perhaps a three bladed prop will work here, or a smaller diameter and larger pitch something in the 12 range of pitch maybe. What do you guys think?
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
I'm doing a 36cc...
First, note that the cowling is about 6 inches across... so keep that in mind for fitting the powerplant. As for prop... the Decathlon LG is pretty shabby, so an aftermarket LG wouldn't be a bad idea and taller can cure some of that problem. It would take away from the semi-scale looks. For me, it's about flying first. Scale so far isn't very high on my list. Three blade would be another good alternative.
It is an aerobatic capable model. Higher prop pitches take away some of that low gear grunt you might want depending on how you want to fly it.
I have been a bit concerned with the light ply firewall provided. If I was planning to use a 50cc, I think I would create another firewall or do some mods to the one supplied. I'm already adding some triangle stock around my firewall.
You are right, many light 50cc engines are about the same weight as vintage 35-40cc engines, but nowhere as close to as light as some of the new ones that are under 3 pounds. I haven't started balancing mine yet... I built per plans for servo locations. I would expect that you may need extra tail weight to offset the engine and firewall mods weight. Just guessing from reading this thread. With 50cc though, a few ounces of lead in the tail shouldn't hurt much. That setup should take it vertical 'fast'! All of this will add to your wing loading... but I haven't flown one of these and can't comment on how light it flies without the extra pound or two of weight.
If I had not found this 36cc Brellilli, I was planning to use a CRRC 40cc and was going to have a custom muffler made for it. I have yet to find another engine this size that weighs less. Apparently a custom muffler can be had for somewhere around $80. The carb on this engine is side mounted, (same with the 36cc) so I will need to cut the cowling for it.
Now, if it will ever just warm up! Supposed to happen this weekend! I'll be able to do some work again... YES!!!
First, note that the cowling is about 6 inches across... so keep that in mind for fitting the powerplant. As for prop... the Decathlon LG is pretty shabby, so an aftermarket LG wouldn't be a bad idea and taller can cure some of that problem. It would take away from the semi-scale looks. For me, it's about flying first. Scale so far isn't very high on my list. Three blade would be another good alternative.
It is an aerobatic capable model. Higher prop pitches take away some of that low gear grunt you might want depending on how you want to fly it.
I have been a bit concerned with the light ply firewall provided. If I was planning to use a 50cc, I think I would create another firewall or do some mods to the one supplied. I'm already adding some triangle stock around my firewall.
You are right, many light 50cc engines are about the same weight as vintage 35-40cc engines, but nowhere as close to as light as some of the new ones that are under 3 pounds. I haven't started balancing mine yet... I built per plans for servo locations. I would expect that you may need extra tail weight to offset the engine and firewall mods weight. Just guessing from reading this thread. With 50cc though, a few ounces of lead in the tail shouldn't hurt much. That setup should take it vertical 'fast'! All of this will add to your wing loading... but I haven't flown one of these and can't comment on how light it flies without the extra pound or two of weight.
If I had not found this 36cc Brellilli, I was planning to use a CRRC 40cc and was going to have a custom muffler made for it. I have yet to find another engine this size that weighs less. Apparently a custom muffler can be had for somewhere around $80. The carb on this engine is side mounted, (same with the 36cc) so I will need to cut the cowling for it.
Now, if it will ever just warm up! Supposed to happen this weekend! I'll be able to do some work again... YES!!!
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Sorry if I am a bit repetitive of my earlier posts on this thread. Engine weight was not an issue on mine (Quarda 42 on mag). I still had nose lead. On occasion I found the 18 inch props I used to be at the maximum. Had a few prop strikes in what would typically be non-prop strike situations. Your mileage may vary.
Have fun!
Bedford
Have fun!
Bedford
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
the kit was designed for a US25 engine, which is similar in size, configuration, and power to a Homelite 25cc weedie conversion... This is NOT an extremely powerful engine, but should be "adequate" for the design, especially if you pay attention to weight and understand that this plane was intended to FLY on the wing, not HANG on the prop. There are other engines in the 25cc range that produce more power (G26, most of the chinese 26cc purpose-built engines, even some of the weedies) that should give better performance at about the same (or less) weight. I have one of these kits in construction that will be getting a 26cc weedie that is a G26 knockoff. I expect reasonable flying performance similar in capability to full-size, NOT 3D... If you want that kind of capability, the 40-50cc purpose-built engines would be a good choice... Problem w/ the bigger engines is going to be ground clearance for the prop... I would expecct a 1.20 to 1.50 four-stroke glow to be PLENTY of power if you are willing to put up with the greasy mess...
An earlier post referenced the quality of the die-cut ply parts in the kit. Mine, too, was somewhat lacking, but usable. The plywood looked like some kind of paneling or doorskin product, not typical aviation lite-ply. I had to re-glue some of the laminations, but did not have to replace any of it. All of the balsa in my kit was excellent... Parts fit was better than typical, plane goes together nicely (although the wing panels do require quite a bit of labor due to the design, but build up very strong). Tail parts require a lot of wood cutting as they are "Stick built" from stock.
An earlier post referenced the quality of the die-cut ply parts in the kit. Mine, too, was somewhat lacking, but usable. The plywood looked like some kind of paneling or doorskin product, not typical aviation lite-ply. I had to re-glue some of the laminations, but did not have to replace any of it. All of the balsa in my kit was excellent... Parts fit was better than typical, plane goes together nicely (although the wing panels do require quite a bit of labor due to the design, but build up very strong). Tail parts require a lot of wood cutting as they are "Stick built" from stock.
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
I have a quetion concerning your struts. What size is your tubing and are you attach points attached to the wood inside or just JB welded
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Hi, I am a builder. Enclosed a picture of my aluminum struts from under the wing and the second one is my engine installation with my home made motor mount. Engine is a G23, and prop is 16/8 master airscrew. I have 8300 and 1700 with the motor. Pretty good.
Raymond
K & S stock. streamline 1/2 front back 3/8. at brace 3/16 round to link. 1/4 brace up attached in scale fashioin to little L bracket. Solid 3/8 filed to fit at ends. Drilled and tapped to attached to plane. I am please. the look is pretty scale.
Raymond
K & S stock. streamline 1/2 front back 3/8. at brace 3/16 round to link. 1/4 brace up attached in scale fashioin to little L bracket. Solid 3/8 filed to fit at ends. Drilled and tapped to attached to plane. I am please. the look is pretty scale.
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Hi, can anyone help me. I need the profile of the cabin from the front to the back. My plan was damaged. When I finished the plane I trew it away ( dumb) now I need it to make the side and door panel in the cabin. I think it could be scanned and email to me. Thanks , otherwise it is tuf to get the profile.
Raymond
Raymond
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
ORIGINAL: bjboise406
I have a quetion concerning your struts. What size is your tubing and are you attach points attached to the wood inside or just JB welded
I have a quetion concerning your struts. What size is your tubing and are you attach points attached to the wood inside or just JB welded
I see I'm not the only one who likes those ks tubes...... looks very nice warbird 2..... look back to post 651 and you'll see my strut tube pics. Looks familiar!!!
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
A scan would be great .. Could you do the fuselage and wing attach points. How did you attach the trailing strut to the forward strut. It llooks like you used a threaded rood attached somehow to the strut thanks Scott
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Thanks, I want to finished the inside of my cabin. So I need the scan that will show the whole side of the cabin, front to angle in front of window: back to after end of cabin. That will do it. I can build an exact panel and glue it in for finishing touch.
Raymond
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Very easy to attach. I made little inserts of solid aluminum stock, filed to shape./ about 1 1/2" long each. The front both ends were drilled and tapped to go to wing and lower fuselage. The rear one is drilled and tapped at the wing end, the other end ( going to attach ) was done at an angle to meet the forward strut. I notched the forward strut to get to the insert. then I filed both inserts to mate correctly. Using Hysol( the best epoxy known to modeler, FAA approved) i epoxied both struts together ( on the plane) I taped it overnight ( Hysol is slow to cure, but worth it, I use it in all high stress ereas.) After drying ( only for the scale look ) I drilled two holes ( one in each insert ) and use a little strap under for peace of mind. I inserted the bolts from the top for the scale look. I am using self locking nuts and they are thick. I may switch that to slim ones. I am please with the end result, and they paint easy...... yes. Hysol is used at every insert this way you are sure there is no harmonic vibration to interfere.Hysol has a whitish color. Also using PCM.
I could have put the bolt horizontal- but it was not scale. I did away from that.
Raymond
I could have put the bolt horizontal- but it was not scale. I did away from that.
Raymond
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Stevo, I did look at your struts. You have worked a little more than me. Well done.
The actual plane that I am modeling is N14EJ - it is a 94 SD. Flown then by greg Koontz. I had a great picture shot picture of the struts from under the wing in flight. So I more or less copied that one. I will take my plane to Lakeland in April, I want a picture with him. Also the punch of his show is cutting a ribbon inverted 10 feet. with smoke. If they let me I want to cut at 2 1/2' with smoke. That would make a good picture to post here! No?
I have seen some SD with the attachament like you, they might be older SD.
Raymond
The actual plane that I am modeling is N14EJ - it is a 94 SD. Flown then by greg Koontz. I had a great picture shot picture of the struts from under the wing in flight. So I more or less copied that one. I will take my plane to Lakeland in April, I want a picture with him. Also the punch of his show is cutting a ribbon inverted 10 feet. with smoke. If they let me I want to cut at 2 1/2' with smoke. That would make a good picture to post here! No?
I have seen some SD with the attachament like you, they might be older SD.
Raymond
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Warbird2 had asked for a plan copy since he threw his out...I was talking about a scan of the plan...................
Warbird2, let me know. Sent you an email................
Warbird2, let me know. Sent you an email................
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
rs, I dont need a whole plan, all I need is the profile of the cabin. Thanks. I'll check later, I may receive one today.
Raymond
Raymond
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RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Hi, great! one member sent me the whole plan. It brought back memories looking at it. No more issues. Now I will finish my cabin. I hope I can make that ribbon cutting shot at 2 1/2 ' and share it with you.
and bring my plane alive.
and bring my plane alive.