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Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

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Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Old 04-09-2012, 12:32 AM
  #1451  
beepee
 
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

52,

Sorry about your misfortune. Sounds like the result wasn't too bad. I powered mine with a Quadra 42 spinning an 18x10 prop. Weight came out about 16.8# after the lead was added to the nose for balance. The combination worked well.

How was your weight and balance?

Good luck,

Bedford
Old 04-09-2012, 05:11 AM
  #1452  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

First flight sucessful on Saturday 04/07/2012. Ihad to weigh the plane 3 times because I didn't believe the reading. It weighed in at 14.5 lbs. I added some weight to the nose and still need to add a bit more. So final weight is not set yet. It flew great, thanks to my test pilot. I'm still getting back into flying after not flying for 18 years. I did some figure 8s with it, but that's about all. One elevator control rod separated at the servo thread coupler. Next build I'll thread both ends of one continuous control rod, and not use silly solder on threaded couplers. Silly to depend on tin/lead for that kind of joint. Istill need to add a fueling spigot to the cowl. But I'm not sure how I'm going to configure it. Should Itap into the fuel line to the carb, put a T there, and tubing to the carb and cowl?Or should I run a 3rd line from the cowl to the tank? Hopefully I'll have this configured before next flight and will fly with the cowl mounted. I'm quite happy with it (dispite some minor build defects - first build in 18 years), and it flies quite well. Many flights to come as spring advances.

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Old 04-09-2012, 05:37 AM
  #1453  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Thanks for your input Beepee. I did balance it but I'm going to again. It may be a little tail heavy.


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Old 04-11-2012, 01:00 AM
  #1454  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Nice paint scheme 52. Will be very visible in the air.

Bedford
Old 04-14-2012, 04:59 PM
  #1455  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Worked on the engine and changed props. Flew it again today, whole different airplane. It flew nice. I did notice that you have to fly it to the ground. She sinks fast. Is that typical for the decathalon?
Old 04-15-2012, 07:30 AM
  #1456  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Hi all,
Been reading through this thread a lot, and it got me inspired to build the Dynaflite SD. Received it from Tower last Wed. and have started the tailfeathers. This is my first giant and scale build, so I have questions. Plan on doing a Koverall with paint covering. I like working with Koverall. My first question is: I don't have anything to power this plane yet, and I want to go gas, which I have also never did before. The Dynaflite SD gives a range od 25-35cc range so I thought I'd stay around the middle of this. Been looking at a lot of different engines and their specs, and there seems to be many differences in hp and total weight even in the same cc size range. I'm leaning toward going with a RCGF 32cc engine, which may be close to the same weight as their 26cc, but with 1.3 more hp and able to swing a bigger prop. Guitarman52 said he is using the 26cc RCGF on his
Old 04-15-2012, 07:39 AM
  #1457  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Don't know what just happened, but I'll continue. Any way Guitarman used a 26cc RCGF on his SD, so I'd like to know if my proposed engine is on the right track, and where I need to plan on mounting the servos and batteries to keep from having to add any weight to the pland for balancing. I have a 16 oz fuel tank already. Will this be large enough for this engine, and how much run time could I expect?
Thanks for any input.
Lamar
Old 04-15-2012, 08:18 AM
  #1458  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

I am in the final stages of completing my Decathlon. This is my first kit in many years and this is an awesome thread. Maybe this has been covered already like I said this is an awesome and long thread. What are most guys doing about the tail wheel. Solid mounting the tail wheel into the rudder cannot be good for a: less than perfect landings or b: rudder servo gears. This is a heavy plane but I don't want to add excessive weight at the very end either. Mine will be powered with a Brison 40.

Thanks in advance for any good advice.
Old 04-15-2012, 08:43 AM
  #1459  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Lamar,

I will say that the 32 cc would be a better choice than the 26. It flies fine with the 26 but will do better with more hp. As far as balancing, my batteries are basically over the landing gear. I used a push pull for the rudder and the tail wheel that came with the plane. I would recommend strengthened the landing gear , if not it will probably be a matter of time before you will do it anyway. That also helped to balance the plane. It tends to be tail heavy with my 26, but the extra weight in the landing gear area put it right on the money. Good luck ...
Old 04-15-2012, 08:54 AM
  #1460  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

26cc is minimal if you like to fly a docile Decath. Takeoff runs will be very long especially on grass fields. I would recommend 40cc minimum for substantial thrust. I used a Magnum 180 on my Decath in the beginning, 1 year ago and upon takeoff, all of our 400' + runway was required for liftoff! Some would say I went overboard and some did say, awesome as I did on the 1st takeoff when I replaced the 4-stroker 180 with a 2-stroker DLE 55cc gas power-house spinning a 22x10 prop.. The SD tail was up instantly, within' 40' it was air born. Vertical climbing seemed nearly unlimited as I lowered the throttle just before it disappeared from sight. To balance, I moved the rudder and elevator servos into the rear hatch, the 16 oz. gas fuel tank over the CG, the 5-cell battery pack over the CG and the ignition pack directly behind the fuel tank. 6" Dubro inflatable wheels were required for prop clearance. Perfect neutral balance was achieved @ the recommended balance point. Since this drastic overhaul, the SD has moved to the top as my preferred flyer.
Old 04-15-2012, 05:14 PM
  #1461  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Thanks for your replies back Guitarman52 and speedstik. I am most definately going to do a strengthing of the LG. Unless I find something that sounds better, the music wire/wheel colar method sounds real good. As far as the engines are concerned, I looked up the specs for the DLE 55cc engine and it is 1.6 more hp rated than the RCGF 32cc, but it will weigh about 1lb more, not counting the extra weight of the 6" wheels that speedstick had to install. I would like to build as light as possible with out having to add any unnecessary weight for balance. I also looked at the specs on a RCGF 45cc engine, and it was a gain of only .4 hp and it was also 1lb heaver than the 32cc. So with that all said, plus the fact the DLE 55 will cost me $100 more, I still think I'm leaning toward the 32cc RGCF. Quality of engine is also the final Big factor in determining what engine I choose, which I have no knowledge of. I will spend more for quality.

Lamar
Old 04-15-2012, 07:01 PM
  #1462  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

DLE-30, OS GT 33, or wait for the new DA 35....Them would be my pic's.
Old 04-16-2012, 01:23 AM
  #1463  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

G38. Good power match, dead simple to operate, no ignition battery, need the weight up-front anyway.

Bedford
Old 04-16-2012, 01:40 AM
  #1464  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

I agree with skypilot. I had the rcgf 26 on an aeroworks yak before and replaced it with the DLE 30. The power difference was unbelieveable. The DLE30 is a real powerhouse for its size.
Old 04-16-2012, 04:36 AM
  #1465  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

i agree with you about the wheel i am going put a hanger 9 tail wheel on mw super dec. the part#is han2762 and its carbon fiber one with the wheel also. wayne
Old 04-16-2012, 06:02 AM
  #1466  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

I had my local machine shop bend a new landing gear for me using 1/4 inch 6061-T6 aluminum. If you do that, you can have them make it longer so you don't have to use the 6 inch wheels. Drawback is that machine shops aren't cheap. I think it cost me $50. Maybe you know somebody with a sheet metal brake?

Dave
Old 04-16-2012, 04:53 PM
  #1467  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

I have to say, these replys are leaning me toward the DLE 30. The specs are about the same as the RCGF 32. Guitarman52. Since you've had both the RCGF engine, and a DLE engine, how would you compare quality, ease of operation and warranty between the two brands?

Lamar

ORIGINAL: Guitarman52

I agree with skypilot. I had the rcgf 26 on an aeroworks yak before and replaced it with the DLE 30. The power difference was unbelieveable. The DLE30 is a real powerhouse for its size.
Old 04-16-2012, 11:23 PM
  #1468  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Overall I think the DLE is a better engine. I have 3 dle 30's and they have been flawless. Tower Hobbies sells the DLE and if you are a member, you can get an additional $50 off of the original price. I think it brings the price to $269. Pretty hard to beat.
Old 04-17-2012, 08:44 AM
  #1469  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Thanks Guitarman52. It may be a new DLE 30 real soon. Your right, I've gotten e-mail from Tower just receintly of free shipping and discounts.

Lamar

Old 04-19-2012, 09:52 AM
  #1470  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

I've completed building my fin and rudder. Prior to gluing parts together, I predrilled my hinge slots on trailing edge fin and leading edge rudder. Then using my router table and a V bit, I made a V on the leading edge of the rudder. This made a perfectly centered V. My concern now is the hinge fit between the fin and rudder. The Dubro large hinges I used have a cotter pin holding the two hinge halves together. I've never used this size and type before, so upon first installing hinges in their slots, there was a very large gap between rudder and fin. I flattened the cotter pin head some and did a small mortice in the hinge slots to make the gap around 3/64" between fin and rudder. Should this gap be made tighter yet, and is this the proper way of going about this type hinge installation? The leading edges of fin and rudder cannot be sanded to final shape unless the gap is correct. Any advice is appreciated.

Lamar
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:31 AM
  #1471  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon


ORIGINAL: lamarkeiko

I've completed building my fin and rudder. Prior to gluing parts together, I predrilled my hinge slots on trailing edge fin and leading edge rudder. Then using my router table and a V bit, I made a V on the leading edge of the rudder. This made a perfectly centered V. My concern now is the hinge fit between the fin and rudder. The Dubro large hinges I used have a cotter pin holding the two hinge halves together. I've never used this size and type before, so upon first installing hinges in their slots, there was a very large gap between rudder and fin. I flattened the cotter pin head some and did a small mortice in the hinge slots to make the gap around 3/64" between fin and rudder. Should this gap be made tighter yet, and is this the proper way of going about this type hinge installation? The leading edges of fin and rudder cannot be sanded to final shape unless the gap is correct. Any advice is appreciated.

Lamar
Lamar,

Making a recess in the leading edge of the rudder and bringing the gap to nearly nothing is, I think, the best way.

In full size airplane we ususally see any hinge displacement going into the movable surface.
Take into account the thickness of any covering material.

Do the hinge gluing only after the surfaces are covered.

Just the way I do it. You do the way you prefer.

Zor
Old 04-19-2012, 05:37 PM
  #1472  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Thanks for your input Zor. I figured I may need to close the gap more, but didn't want to do too much until I had another opinion. I will do the morticing in the rudder.

Lamar
Old 04-19-2012, 06:17 PM
  #1473  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon


ORIGINAL: lamarkeiko

Thanks for your input Zor. I figured I may need to close the gap more, but didn't want to do too much until I had another opinion. I will do the morticing in the rudder.

Lamar
Lamar

Some pictures before someone says I do not know what I am talking about.

Edited to add the following lines.
There is still a bit of space visible to allow for the covering of the elevator and the aircraft dope used for finishing.

Zor

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Old 04-20-2012, 06:39 AM
  #1474  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon

Thanks again Zor. That looks like Koverall on the elevator. I'm guessing that you will apply Koverall to the elevator and then cut the fabric from around the mortice, then glue the hinges in before painting. Does that sound like your sequence? I used Koverall on my last 4 Star 60 build, and I like it a lot.

Lamar
Old 04-20-2012, 08:48 AM
  #1475  
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Default RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon


ORIGINAL: lamarkeiko

Thanks again Zor. That looks like Koverall on the elevator. I'm guessing that you will apply Koverall to the elevator and then cut the fabric from around the mortice, then glue the hinges in before painting. Does that sound like your sequence? I used Koverall on my last 4 Star 60 build, and I like it a lot.

Lamar
Hi Lamar,

Actually not Koverall.

That fabric is polyester lining for ladies' skirts bought from Fabricland.
Width 54 inches and $3.95 a yard of length.

It was finished with Randolph dope.
I will edit and post a p;icture of the finished stab / elev if I can find it.

Zor

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