orthobird

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thank you for the link.

i will look it up

the more i know
the better

i was trying to do damage control

from the moment i made airplane forward, with the cross wind

i was doomed to fail.

my mistake. i should have stopped

and my friend
even said,,

dont you think it is too windy?

i probably should not have been out there at all


now, i check weather on internet anytime i want to go fly
and i look for wind speed

yesterday it was 20 MPH from south
tomorrow it is supposed to be 6 mph

on that day
winds were over 15 vmph.


i learned my lesson.

combatman

[/quote]

OK, so let me get this straight. You are at low airspeed, low alititude, and high angle of attack, and you somehow think you are going to pull this manuver off?? Add in the cross wind, and this was doomed to failure from the start. No offense, but I think you need to sit down at this web site: http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/k-12/airplane/bga.html This is a good basic intro to aircraft areodynamics, which a lot of modelers need more of IMHO. I've been flying R/C for over 20 years, and probably 80% of the crashes I have witnessed were due to the pilot not really understanding what makes an aircraft fly. They yank on the sticks, and assume the plane will respond, which isn't always the case.

[/quote]

Actually, when people yank on the sticks, a plane typically DOES respond a little too well. Beginners need to learn to move the sticks gently, not yank on them.

Has the pilot of that plane learned to fly on a trainer yet?

orthobird

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Yes

lamarkeiko

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I finally made a decision and ordered the engine for my SD. After a lot of concideration for a Mintor 33cc and a Syssa 30cc, I decided to go for the OS GT-33. I ordered one from Tower 2 days ago. $30 incentive and free shipping got it for $369. I have a couple OS nitro engines, and they perform great for me, so I don't think I can go wrong.
I wanted to order some gas fuel line, but I have some confusion on the proper size to get. The OS manual for the GT-33 specifies yellow tygon with a 3mm ID and a 6mm OD. Tower only lists three different sizes that I can find. 3/32", 1/8" & 5/32" ID. I'm sure 5/32" is too large. 3mm converts to .1181 inch, 3/32" converts to .09375 inch, and 1/8" converts to .125 inch. Which size should I be ordering?
Thanks
Lamar

[email protected]

Update: Over 20 flights now, and I've stopped counting. It flies well, but has a higher stall speed than I would like. It weighs less than 15 pounds, but with the OS120FX glow engine, it feels heavy but not necessarily underpowered. One hard landing broke the landing gear mounting plate. I replaced it with a 1/4" x 3" x 6" plywood plate. Also replaced the wood screws used to mount the struts with 8/32 screws and blind nuts. The SD is more capable than its pilot - I'm re-learning after being away from the hobby for 18 years. I'll be installing the fuel spigot on the cowl and mounting the cowl for this coming weekend flights.

beepee

dand,

You made some changes much like I did on my SD, reinforcing the landing gear plate and the strut mount. Be careful, though, that you don't end up with one (the landing gear plate) taking out the struts and possibly causing damage to the wings. I separated the gear plate from the struts mount so that IF the gear plate was jerked out for any reason (not by pilot action of course!) it would spare the wing. It worked, more-or-less, until one particularly bad landing took out the whole airframe.

Enjoy!

Bedford

orthobird

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I am working on the snaps as described by someone else on this forum.

Zor

Sorry to read about your mishap.

What kind of glue did you use ?
Did you double glue and create glue fillets ?

What kind of covering did you use ?

Zor

futabaflyer83

I just started building my Dynaflite Super Decathlon. After seeing the blue and yellow scheme, Ithink I will borrow it too. Very Sharp.

futabaflyer83

If I were to instll the DLE 55 on the nose, what prop works best? I am hearing some concerns with clearance.

futabaflyer83

Should the struts be modified to handle the extra load for the larger engine? Thanks

orthobird

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i have an fg 36 saito 4 stroke, it certainley does not have enough power for this plane, but it flies, will stall easily.
it uses an 18 x 8 prop

i just checked, and with airplane in takeoff position, the prop blade tip is 3 inches from ground.

i have a extra 260 27% with a 50 cc evolution engine, and it uses a 23 x 8 prop.

so imagine your dle 55 cc would use something in that ballpark.

i doubt your prop will clear ground safely with that size engine.

orthobird

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i forgot to mention that i am using 5 inch dubro wheels, which gives me more clearance

futabaflyer83

Thank you. I was already thinking I would need to go to a 3 blade prop for clearance. I have been looking at a 19x10 3 blade for the DLE 55.
The PTE 36 from troybuiltmodels.com or the new OSGT33 are my other choices. Idon't know if the DA 35 will be out in time to make it a player.

beepee

Zor,

Wow, either I have been away for longer than I thought, or this thread has gone ultra-active.

For all of the high stress joints I used 30-min epoxy. I am slow. 30-min epoxy is my 5-min stuff. I did some basic extra reinforcement, but found the overall lite-ply construction to be the ultimate weakness that cannot be overcome.

I covered mine is Solartex - all white, then rattle-can sprayed it with Rustoleum, black fuse bottom, yellow above, and red star burst in the standard ACA color scheme. The standard scheme is hard enough. The optional scheme which is found on the Dynaflight box is another matter. The rustoleum is a WHOLE LOT easier than any hobby paint I ever used.

Cheers,

Bedford

Nothrottle

Using a 22 x 10 composite. Ground clearance 1-1/2 " with 6" Dubro inflatable tires lightly inflated. Always very conscious of staying somewhat nose-up throughout the landing. Wooden props cost difference negligible compared with composites. One touch of wood even on grass field, the wood prop is done.

Thisstrangeengine

I've been checking this Decathlon out for YEARS and finally ordered one before they decide to pull the plug and stop producing it. I can't even remember how long ago it's been since I first saw it, but I knew one day I would have one. Well it will be here later today and hopefully after finishing a couple other projects I'll begin this build. I have a smaller GP Decathlon, but just going to keep it in kit form it since it's out of production.

futabaflyer83

Do you have any pictures of your completed model with the 6 inch tires? I assume that you are not using any wheel pants?

minkiehuoise

     i am getting ready to put my electrontic in my plane and was wounding where everybody is installing it .ihave a new dle 30 engine
     and where can a person can get the stuff for the panel . thanks for any info   minkiehuoise

Zor

Bedford,

First many thanks for your reply.

I find it interesting that Solartex and Rustoleum is available out your way.
I will browse this thread to see if there is a picture of your plane.

Is there much activity in RC models in Russia ?
Is there any local clubs (groups) and any local distibutors or retailers of RC stuff ?

I have a dear friend for many years by the first name of Vladimir who used to live in Ekaterinburg in the Urals.
He now works for a German company Siemens and they moved him to Bulgaria as he covers mainly the Balkans.

Nice to be in touch with you. Your English is very good butI realize that perhaps you are not a Russian native.

Please keep in touch with a Canadian.

Zor

beepee

Thanks Zor, but I have to admit I am American from Houston (TX) working as an expat here in Moscow. I built and flew my SD while I still lived in Houston. It was a fun bird, but a little short lived for me. I made the mistake of trying to bring it back from a deadstick a long way off and lost airspeed. It stalled and nosed in hard from about 12ft up. Pretty much killed everything but the wings. Sad.

There is flying here in the Moscow area, but I don't participate. I have no personal car so weekend travel to a flying field with bird and gear in tow is not going to happen. I complain not. One of my other favorite hobbies is kitting and building. So now I can sit in my apartment all warm and cozy cutting ribs and formers for something I will build when I get back. Working on kitting a BUSA 1/4 scale L4 Cub right now.

Take care,

Bedford

orthobird

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hello

dynaflite recommends 2 degrees right thrust and 5 degrees down.

i am using a 4 cycle FG 36 saito for this plane
swinging an APC 18 x 10 prop

the plane will roll to left.

do you believe i need to increase right thrust more.

i just checked again with the robart meter, with my plane on its side, the right thrust is 2 degrees.

orthobird

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update on flight today:

G8er

I really don't understand why you would be doing flat spin and stall maneuvers at such a low altitude on a plane that you obviously are having problems with. Especially seeing how it looks like your still having troubles with the take off and precision maneuvers, no offense. I am sure your decent pilot and have flown a lot of planes, but it seems like all your crashes are pilot error and not the aircraft/mechanics.

Hopefully you do not get too discouraged and give up on building, I am hoping your motor makes it threw this landing and you keep us updated on your success with your next project. 

Nothrottle

Cshahrdar, I see you are registered with AMA. Was that a club field you were flying on? If so, your required safety officer would ground you.