jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

This kit calls for 4 servo's in the wings. One for each aileron and I would like to use only two servo's for the ailerons on this plane with a rod from the lower aileron to the upper aileron. I have 2 pair of matched ball bearing JR servo's. One pair of the 4003 and another pair of the 4030 servo's. Will these servo's have enough torque to handle this task? This would save a little weight and make the electronic connections easier.

Thanks

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I don't see why you couldn't. I'm using standard Futaba servos in a GP Skybolt with a YS 110FZ. 1 servo in each side of the lower wing with a rod connecting to the top(Just make sure that the rod is at the TE of the aileron)

Chevelle

My Feedback: (2)

Take a look at any of the BalsaUSA biplanes. They use the same arrangement. I have the 1/4 scale Pup. The ailerons will work fine with servos you have. In these kits, you take standard control horns and cut them down to just one hole. Then use clevises to connect a rod between them. I recommend that you use metal ones. Solder a clevis to one end and use a threaded version on the other for adjustment. If you use a 2-56 rod, you should stiffen it with basswood. If you don't, it will vibrate and flutter when flying. If you use 4-40 rod, it will be stiff enough without the wood.

Good luck.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks guy's. I think I will use only two servo's like you suggested. This will make things alot easier to put together.

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,

I have been flying my Dynaflite SE5a for a few weeks now. Flys great. I used Futaba 148 standard servos in the bottom wing. The top wing is attatched to the bottom by linkages. Dont bother with four servo's. If you are going to pull some "G's" you will want stronger servos. I am flying it scale ( which is more fun to me) so the lower end servos work just fine. I was astounded by the great flying of this model. Flew yesterday and it took me hours to get the silly grin off my face. By the way, I am flying mine with an ASP 1.20 four stroke. This plane is WAY overpowered. Unlimited vertical with it. A 70 would work just fine I bet. I am going to swap a .91 out one of these days. Get in touch, I would love to talk SE5eeze with you.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Prop Nut

Thanks for the feed back. This is what I was looking for. I am going to be using JR 4030 servo's in the lower wing and attach the ailerons to gather with a rod between the lower and upper wing. I have a Magnum 75XL that I have converted to diesel. I just got the diesel head in the other day. I had it made by a gentleman up in Canada that I meet on RC Universe. I have a friend in my club that has a Tower 75 that he has dieselized and it swings a 15x4 prop at 10,000RPM.

My building is coming along pretty good. I have both wings built along with the stabilizer, Rudder and elevator. I have ordered 5" wire wheels from Hobby People and they should be here this week. I plan on covering the SE-5a with koverall and nitrate dope. I will paint the plane with water based latex paint and then seal the paint with a spray polyurethane. I will post some pictures of the SE5a when I have all of the framing done.

Looking forward the talking to you about our SE5a's. Did you leave the top wing in th e location where the kit calls for or did you lower it 1" to get it more scale like? I know the top wing is a little to high to be true scale. I do not think I will move it done unless it makes a better looking model.

Thanks

flyman1

My Feedback: (1)

hi propnut
ordered a dynaflite se-5a, planing to power it with 91 surpass, do you think a 91 4 stroke will be enough ? also what did you cover it with? did you do anything about the top wing height? and are there anythings i should watch out for in the building and flying of the model?
thanks for your time and input.
len logun

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,

I did not move the top wing down, I really thought about it but am glad I didnt. It looks great the way it is and I am not sure I am a good enough builder to get everything right without the included jigs. One problem I had while building was that the stringers joining the front fuse side to the rear fuse side was shorter on the port side than the starboard side. When the fuses where joined it caused a fishtail to develope. The result was that I had to cut it apart and make my own stringers for the port side to match up. Other than that, the kit was fun to build. By the way, when it says "put the left over balsa aside for later use" DO IT, lol. They seem to use almost every scrap someplace. I had to go buy some 1/16 sheeting because I misplaced a small piece. A .91 four stroke will fly this very well indeed. A .70 four stroke should also, not sure about a diesel conversion, never tried one out before, let me know how it works. I covered mine using Sig Balsarite for cloth and several yards of Polyester cloth from a fabric store. I wanted to try it out. Turned out ok, the problems where in my skill not the material. I painted the model with Krylon spray Camo green and then sealed it with clear poly water based. Then another coat of Camo green to give it that flat look. My last coat was not heavy enough and the narrow spray tip left streaks after the paint cured. I didnt notice until then. But I already had the plane assembled and ready to fly by that time. I will strip it down and repaint it this winter. I am not really sure what to tell you about flying this bird, other than DO IT. It flys GREAT. Very very gental, easy to fly , great takeoffs, and the landings are so easy.....lol, I idled in and let it float, it will touch the skid first and the gently drop down on the front wheels. THAT REMINDS ME..........recut the tail skid to give it much more of a raked angle. I pinned my CA hinges in to the rudder but when you land on Grass the tail skid has such a perpendicular angle to the ground that the stress will tear the rudder out, even with pins. You want the tail skid to glide not grab. Course, all the tail first landings that I was doing had a hand in this but the angle is to sharp as it is. I had read a warning about that myself before I started building. I put more of an angle in but even it was not enough. Really rake it. Make a new one from stock plywood if you have to. I am going to get someone to take a video of my tailskid first landing to put on here, it really is wild to watch. THis plane is my new favorite (I have a BalsaUSA Eindecker with 25cc gas, GiantScalePlanes P47 ASP 1.20, Carl Goldberg 1.20 Ultimate and the SE5 is the most fun to fly) Good luck and happy flying.

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

These pictures are early before I had it ready to fly. I did put on the windshield but not the head rest. Alot of the SE5a's used in the last part of the war didnt have a headrest and I like the cleaner look. I did put cockpit combing on. I am thinking about making a full cockpit for the plane. You can see the paint streaks that I was talking about. Although after several flights they have blended in alot. It looks great.

flyman1

My Feedback: (1)

hi prop man
thanks for the imput. i will build it stock, but will use only 2 servos for the ailerons in lower wing with a rod connecting upper ailerons. still not sure about 2 sevvos for the elevator, what did you use? it will be my winter project.
thanks for your time
len

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

PropNut & Len

Thanks for the gr4eat input PropNut. Do you think it would be best just to do away with the tail wheel and install a metal tail skid. I do not think that would grab on landing as bad as that wheel does?

Len I also well be using just 2 servos for the ailerons. I plan on using just 1 servo for the elevator with 2 rods. I well us one rod to one side of the elevator and solder another rod to that one for the other side. I will be using only 5 servos total.

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi guys

The kit plans show one servo for the elevator and two metal control rods, I soldered mine together as the instructions show. As for tail skid, I really like the way the wood skid looks. I have lost the actual wheel now ( I mounted my blind nuts backwards, DoH!) but it works great on grass, if I where to fly off pavement I would worry. I would love to see your kits as they are built, please upload pictures.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

PropNut

I have only framed up the wings,stabilizer,rudder and elevator. I am framing up the body now and will post pictures this weekend. I should have the body framed up by then.

flyman1

My Feedback: (1)

prop nut
what size servo did you use for the elevator standard or heavy duty? also the plan shows a 10oz tank what size did you use ---going with a 91 4 stroke and 10oz seems a bit small.
again thanks for your input
len

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

I used all standard servos. I am not pulling hard "G"s with this bird, just fun flying. I believe I used a twelve ounce tank. It flys a long while with the 1.20 four stroke. Here are some pictures we took today the the field. Pretty poor because of the overcast but you can see the tail skid very well. Also took up my BalsaUSA Eindecker III powered by a 37.00 Polan Weedeater brand Leafblower motor conversion (25cc) Gasser [>:] Gotta love the gassers. It has a 80 inch wing, lots of area. Flys slow and easy, nice loops slow rolls. I love WW1 planes.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

PropNut

Nice looking planes. I to have a 31cc ryobi conversion I plan on using for my next project which will be a Balsa USA WWI Fokker DVII.

You said you used standard servo's on the SE-5a. How many did you use? I have 4 JR 4000 BB series super servo's and 1 GWS high torque BB servo. I am hoping these five servos will be enough. I will have some pics this weekend on the plane I will post.

Prop Nut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,

I used 5 servos in total. Two in the bottom wing, throttle, elevator and rudder. I dont know JR servos but if Futaba 3004 standards work, then those will without a doubt. I have a friend that was going to use the 31cc Ryobi weedeater conversion in the Balsa USA DVII also, but it was to long ( 7 1/2 from firewall to back of prop). He is instead using a 26cc Ryobi four stroke conversion. It is an inch shorter but much bigger. Sounds so much like the real thing it is spooky. I think I am going to HomeDepot to pick up a four stroke weedeater, lol.