CafeenMan

I just completed this model the day before yesterday. This is a really fun kit to build. I recommend it for first time builders, but not for first time pilots. It's not exactly a trainer, but it is easy to build.

The only problem was defective fuselage sides. Sig replaced them but the new sides had the same problem. I managed to work around it, but they never called me back and I doubt they've corrected it. If you buy the kit and have the same problem, please contact them so maybe they will get the message.

Other than that, the kit went together quickly and I really enjoyed the project. It was a nice break from some of my more complicated stuff.

It's designed for a throttled 1/2A engine such as the Norvel, but the person I built it for wanted it to be electric and supplied a way over-kill PJS 1000 out-runner motor. It's too much motor and he'll break the wings if he's not careful.

If you want to build it for electric and don't mind spending the money, I recommend the AXI 2208/20 that I used on the [link=http://airfieldmodels.com/gallery_of_models/rc/bmjr_models_splash-e/index.htm]Splash-E[/link] I built prior to the cub.

More details of the construction on my site:

[link=http://airfieldmodels.com/gallery_of_models/rc/herr_piper_j3_cub/index.htm]Herr Piper Cub[/link]

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

I built that kit a few years back and really enjoyed it. Didn't have the problem you experienced with the fuse sides though.

Powered it with a Norvel .061 which was MORE than enough power. Ended up selling the plane on Ebay for well over $100! (Without engine or servos!)
Dennis-

CafeenMan

Dennis,

It was a strange problem. The way the top keys to the bottom there is no way I was doing something wrong. In fact, I had somebody else come over and look at it and he had the same problem. I asked Sig if it's possible for a sheet to slip as it goes through the laser, and they said no.

More detail: If any of the notches were matched up, then the notches in front of the matching notch were off in one direction and the notches behind were off in the other. Don't know if that makes sense or not.

Said another way. Let's say I matched a notch at mid-length. The notches in front of that notch were behind the matching notches and the notches behind the notch that matched were ahead of their matches.

Another guy in our club has built the Cub too and with the Norvel it flew way too fast. That's why I knew the power I was provided for this model was too much. I replaced an OS .15 CV-A with the same electric motor and the electric is MORE powerful than the CV-A.

So in essence he's put the power of a racing .15 on this airplane. The wings won't be able to handle it if he pulls back the stick too abruptly. But it's his plane and I did want he wants. All I can say is I've warned him and it's his responsibility. As long as he flies the plane as intended it will be fine. Use the power to go straight up and then pull back to no more than 1/3 throttle for level flight.

PS. I wouldn't have sold the plane for $100 unless it didn't fly that great. It looks like another of those kinds of planes that has a lot of bang for the buck.

MikeSell

My Feedback: (2)

I built two of these. The first basically to plan and the second with a 36" no dihedral wing with spruce spars and ailerons. The three channel flew on an .049 big mig but was switched to a .061. It sits in the hangar most of the time now but has over 15 air hours on her. The four channel is a blast to fly. With a .061 it knife edges across the field performs indefinite inverted flight and outside loops easily.
I've built Herr's Starcruiser (2) Cubs (2) Pitts and P51. My son built their AT6 when he was 14. We have had zero problems with their kits. Are you sure that you got the right front and right rear fuse side together and the left front and rear fuse side together?

CafeenMan

Absolutely positive. There are six parts, but the two front pieces had nothing to do with it. That leaves four pieces. I tried every combination (all two of them) and neither way worked. I played with it for well over an hour and realized there was something wrong that wasn't me. I have a feeling somebody accidentally edited the drawing or something.

How did your Cub with no ailerons fly?

MikeSell

My Feedback: (2)

The three channel one was covered with supercoverite cloth and painted. Its wings were extended as to not shorten the main spars. It floated marvelously but had a slow climb with the .049. When the .061 was installed it had no problem with climb. It would execute stall turns almost hammerheads at each end of the field, inverted flight was limited as I had to loop to inverted. It taught me to fly on the wings not the engine. It didn't make much headway into a 15 mph wind but downwind it went fast. I never missed the ailerons except in rolls. I always took it to the field to "warm up" before flying something else. It never crashed or broke anything major. I just provided hours of fun.

CafeenMan

Did you install the wing struts and if so, did you fly with them? I'm most concerned that if the wing flexes, it will rip the sockets off the fuselage or wing. The struts are non-functional so the plane can be flown without them, but it will look so much better if they're on (and stay on) in the air.

MikeSell

My Feedback: (2)

The standard wing mounting has withstood vertical dives to sharp pullouts and full throw loops from a steep dive. As long as you don't get crazy with the power and controls at the same time you won't have to worry. My high speed model had to have a different mount because of the ailerons. I lowered the threaded plate into the fuse and used longer mount bolts. No I don't use the struts on mine. I don't like nonfunctional struts and reinforced the wing slightly to make it unnessary. The struts being balsa were going to take some time to airfoil and would not be very durable.
I am installing struts on my Ag plane but they're airfoiled aluminum and although it is designed for a .09 its getting a AME .15. These struts will need to be functional.
Lets face it the 1/2a offerings are less than scale. Most good flying ones barely look like the real plane. More details require more weight and more drag, things a 1/2a doesn't need. I cringe at the Ace Simple Series but I can live with the Herr planes.

CafeenMan

Mike - thanks again for the info. I didn't airfoil the struts. I just rounded them over front and back and then sprayed the bare wood with Klass Kote epoxy (the same as I used on everything else that was painted).

I think it's going to be a great flying little plane, but yeah, it's not exactly scale. It looks like a Cub if you aren't real picky though.

Another buddy of mine wants one sort of like you built. He wants ailerons, but he wants the wings clipped. He says he has never flown a Cub that he's liked unless it was a clipped wing version. If he has me build one, I'll just take off one rib bay at first and see how it looks (without using glue). If it looks ok, then we'll go with it. Otherwise we'll adjust all the ribs to space them evenly while making the span whatever he thinks he wants it to be.

Thanks again for the information your provided.

- Paul

MikeSell

My Feedback: (2)

In One of the test reports they suggested the wing I built for my clipped wing one. They said to use 36" spruce for spars, no dihedral then attach tips as per plan. Of course they explained a little about aileron installaton. The cost of building the wing like that was no more than $15. I built both for my second cub but only used the clipped wing one. It was either MAN or RCM that carried that article.