arg1415x3

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I was discussing smoke systems with the owner of the model shop where I bought my G26, he said that you do not need any smoke pre-heat systems for gas engines, they generate plenty of heat for good smoke generation.

I have got the plastic spandu gun kits for my DR1, I feel lucky that I am not on the bleeding edge of discovery for all these fiddily jobs. I was still thinking along the lines of somehow using the middle wing mounting holes for attaching the guns. Build some kind of rounded sub deck to mount the guns on and then mount the sub deck and guns via the wing mounting holes [sm=50_50.gif].

On my next building challenge, does anyone have any pictures of the undercarriage setup for bungee suspension, including how the sub wing is attached. This build along site has pictures of the attachment but not how the U/C is hinged and suspended. All comments/pictures welcome.

Alan

Waldopepperaxel

hey Arg thats great to know about the smoke system thanks

Well I had to scrub the c brace idea on the guns as there wasn't enough room under the gun to do it the way I wanted to so now I just used a control rod bent into an L drilled a hole in the back of the Gun and then used two wheel collars on the top and bottom of the deck to adjust the pitch of the guns and sturdy up the mounting. This is just a temporary solution for me and is not scale in anyway.

Scheduled maiden is for Saturday July 25th

Waldopepperaxel

Well 3 days until the maiden, pics and video to follow by next week. its gettin excitin'

arg1415x3

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Good luck on the maiden.

Just completing the interwing struts on mine, photos to follow next week.

Alan

bem

My Feedback: (1)

Chevelle, bps, deljon, Cabane, CliffordH, Cryhavoc, subarubrat, Waldopepperaxel, arg1415x3 and others that has built or are building a Fokker DR1, here are some nice videos for You on a real full scale plane. Hope You enjoy.

We have a guy here in Sweden that built a Fokker DR1 full scale replica and flies it from his own airfield.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf1W32vgEv8[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvE8oWzmKPQ[/youtube]

His name is Mikael Carlson and he maybe is known of some scale builders since Mikael won gold and silver medals at two consecutive World Championships for R/C scale models (F4C).
He has built other old full scale replicas also like "Tummelisa" (a Swedish Air Force biplane, he even cut the trees for building this plane), Blériot XI (he actually has two of them, both restored), Fokker D.VII (not flown yet). He also have some newer planes: a Boeing PT-17 Stearman and a Piper L-4H Grasshopper.

More videos of some of his planes including his Fokker DR1 can be seen on his homepage here:
http://www.aerodrome.se/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&It emid=12

The full scale Fokker DR1 does not seem to be that big:
Wing span: 7.19 m / 23.59 ft.
Length: 5.77 m / 18.93 ft.
Height: 2.95 m / 9.68 ft.
Empty weight: 405 kg / 893 lb.
Engine: 9-cylinder Le Rhône 110 hp rotary
Cruise: 85 kts

/Bo

Waldopepperaxel

Bem That is very cool thanks for leeting us see that, what a toy to have.

Well here is the pics of mine minus the wing decals as they aren't in yet, but i brought her out to maiden and well the video explains it all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkpaI...e=channel_page

arg1415x3

My Feedback: (2)

All ready to go, but engine problems, so sorry, was looking forward to see it fly. Do you have the EI or magneto version of the engine? I haven't fired mine up yet, but it looks as if I should well before the big day. I have seen these engines start after a couple of flips, or not start as per yours. I know the manual says it doesn't need running in and that all the settings are factory set, but I will fire mine up prior to flight time, run a tank of gas through it and set the carb to running a little rich to start off with. I assume you fine tuned your carb settings prior to the flight line? Anyway, I will be interested in what you do to get the engine started, keep your chin up, get the engine running and back to the runway. Good luck - Alan

Waldopepperaxel

I have the magneto G26, I was told I needed a 24 volt battery on my starter, after calling the hobby shop after an hour of trying to flip it. I tried a few different settings but then right back to the factory settings, so I'll get a starter on that and see what happens, I do have a starter but only had a 12 volt battery and it did nothing as it was way to slow, and no way to jump a couple or I would have done that. they said after you get it running it should be able to be fired up by hand but you need 1200 rpm's to generate a spark, the hand only generates about 800. so I'm going shopping for a 24 volt bat or a couple of motorcycle bats I can tie together.

Culver10

We have been using a 18V Ryobi cordless drill to start our gassers.

Waldopepperaxel

We actually went to try that but thought the better of it when we weren't sure what would happen if we couldn't get the drill off the crank if it started, No body in our club has any gasser experience, including me this is my first gasser. I have an ST 2300 that I can hand start, not that I like the way that motor runs but I can at least hand prop it. how do you hook up the drill to it?

Culver10

I took the plastic cup from an old RC starter and used a bolt with locknuts on it. Our regular starters will not spin a gas engine, but the 1/2" 18 volt drill seems to work great! The first start on a new motor always seems the most difficult?? Try to get the engine to fire with full choke. As soon as it fires with choke, go to no choke and some thottle.

Waldopepperaxel

Culver thats perfect thanks I even have an old cup from an old starter I can dedicate to it. Awesome now to see If my fellow flyers has an 18v drill lol

Culver10

I just started my BUSA DR1 build yesterday. Does anyone know what that original green streaked camo style was called? Does anyone have a link to how to do this?

Thanks,

Phil

arg1415x3

My Feedback: (2)

[sm=49_49.gif]That is a good idea.[sm=49_49.gif] I wonder if the hobby shop will take back the chicken stick I bought.

Waldopepperaxel

Culver I believe that is silk wrapped and I think you dye the silk the green color before applying it, well thats one of the methods, which will give it that streaky look when you shrink it on with the dopes and nitrates. I believe they also make those colors in a solor tex or coverite fabric you iron on.

You might want to search here for silk and dope fabric covering, I actually started to silk mine when the silk i was given turned out to be preshrunk so after weeks of trying to shrink it I found that info out, so I pulled it all off and went with coverite, But I really wanted to silk wrap it, jyst ran out of time as were selling our house and the wife wasn't happy about the dope fumes while trying to sell.

Try these links these guys really seem to know there stuff about it

Is silk and fabric dead
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_38...tm.htm#8835734

Twin .020 Jr Skylark build thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_82...tm.htm#8768576

flygilmore

In terms of the stock olive streaking on the originals-before each pilot personalized their craft, it was done on a linen fabric with dye. You can learn of this on r c s c a l e b u i l d e r . c o m. To sum it up real quickly how I did mine, I used the linen colored solartex on the whole airframe. DelJon sent me some color chips from GTM and I took that to my local Lowes where the color was matched and got that mixed in a flat latex. Using a regular hair paint brush that I cut up to make it irregular, I added water to a small portion of the latex and began applying very, very light washes in the diagonal fashion per scale as I did mount 403/17. This took around 5-6 applications to slowly build up the color and achieve more realism-no way would it look right with one or two apps. I also used the black foam brushes to do the blue undersides of the wings etc. and with floetrol mixed with the paints, it turned out beautifully! I used an airbrush to create weathering etc. and have been flying the plane for about 8months now. I will try and get some pics posted as right now I am without internet service at home. Please email me for any other questions.

flygilmore

I just watched your vid too btw. I have the same mag. G-26 as you....start it every time within 5-6flips by hand. Make sure your prop orientation is correct or you'll never start it by flipping. Your hobby shop is full of _______ as mine started by hand first time ever-just have to get the right technique down. I can tell you are not quite as "sharp" on the flip as you need to be and to make you feel better, the G-26 is the hardest of the Zenoahs to flip but is easily done once you do it a couple of times.

For what its worth, I put my $30 glow engine starter on mine before to see it it would turn it over.... hooked to the cars batt. it starts the 26 with ease-bought it @ Tower.

Waldopepperaxel

Hey flygilmore I thought for sure I'd get it hand flipping it, but I too hooked up my High torque starter to my reguler car battery and it was extremely slow, I'm sure I'm not getting enough juice to it I even tried a couple of the other guys starters and the same thing happened, Pop,,,,,,,pop,,,,,,,pop etc.. very slow, I was actually geting more flip action by hand, I read here that it needed to be a very sharp flip to get her before i went out there so I was prepared for some serious propping, and I was giving it everything I had, but it wore my butt down in the hot sun. and my right arm was freakin killing me the following day, after flippin that thing for over an hour. I'm outta shape lol so I'm going to try again this week with a couple of things including the hand start,

How do you know when the prop is in the right position? I read the manual and know its just before the compression that you should start it, other then that I don't know how to tell when the magnets are in the right position. is there a mark somewhere or just a feel?

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Here is a pic of my "green" Dr-1 BUSA kit. I have the G-26 magneto motor and mine would only pop until I corrected the prop position so that I had a hot spark by the time the prop reached the compression stoke. Mine start in just a couple flips after priming.

Waldopepperaxel

NIce Job on That bird Bps love that look.

So if I wanted to get the right prop position does this start on where I tighten the prop down ???

Another words should I spin the prop shaft until the compression stroke starts then put the prop in the 2-3:00 position and tighten it down there.

or doesn't that really matter as long as when I start flipping it, it is in that position before the compression stroke, Being my first Gas motor things are a bit confusing about this, No matter what engine I start by hand you usually have to bring the prop right up to the compression stroke anyway or you'll never push the prop through it... or am I wrong about that? ***sigh*** []I'm a mess, lol, or a complete idiot[:-] and I tend to believe the 2nd part of that last sentence.

Culver10

I think what he is saying is that make sure that the magnet on the flywheel is passing by the magneto while you are flipping the prop. You could confirm this by putting a piece of tape on the blade that is normally up during starting and then removing the plug from the engine and connecting it to the plug wire and watch for spark when you flip it through. Hope this makes sense?

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Check out these new WWI props from Xoar! [link]http://www.xoarintl.com/props/ma/PJWWI-Scimitar-light.html[/link]

Waldopepperaxel

very cool props,

Culver, Thanks,,, thats exactly what I was lookig for, perfect explanation, I looked all over that motor to try and figure out if I knew exactly how to figure that out, I'd a never thought to do that. makes perfect sense. I'm sure glad there are threads like this and people like you for this kind of helpful information. This particular thread has got me through quite a bit questions on this model, and I've been building full kits for almost 40 years now. I still learn something every day.

Thanks.

Waldopepperaxel

Okay I got her started and just for the record The 14.V drill couldn't do it, I tried the hand flip with just marking one side of the prop to find the spark and still coudn't get it, but didn't waste much time on it, Then I hooked up 2 batteries for 24 volts put my regular starter on it and within 1 split second she was running but my antenna broke on my flight box so I didn't chance flying it as I didn't have time to fix it so She's already to go though, I'll fix the box and maiden saturday I can't wait,,

here is a vid of her running, I was so impressed how she was tracking across the runway I forgot to steer it for a minute and lol you'll see, So I'm going to giver her some more rudder too. lol,,, I'm beamin right now
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0pl2...e=channel_page

Waldopepperaxel

Well Why I have been waiting for this weekend to come, I found a spot to put a servo on my choke so no more manual choke for me, Going to purchase a couple of batteries for the electric starter and my Fuel filler today, and my dang Maltese crosses better be in its been almost 6-7 weeks since I placed the order for them[sm=punching.gif]well half of them came in 4 weeks ago and I had to re order the 4 big wing crosses as they forgot them. so I'll be calling them today but this bird is airborn this Saturday, wind, rain, snow, sleet, tornado"s etc... etc.. will not stop me!! I hope [sm=72_72.gif]