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  1. #576

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Summerwind. Tell me about the cowling, G.T. I assume. They look really nice and are about the same price as Fiberglass specialties, but they dont look as deep. So what mods are necessary, or is there a link that shows this? the gun mounting looks good. Are your guns BUSA or Williams Bro?

  2. #577

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    yes the guns are WB's.
    the cowl is GTM.
    it is 1 inch shorter than the stock cowl, but changes the nose in appearance to give it more authenticity.
    i extended the sides about 5/16" of an inch, but you really can't see it as i moved the upper strut wire 1/8" forward.

    the cowl is 70 bucks, so it's not that much more than the fiberglass version, but is more work to setup....OOPS, i guess it's about double the price. the detail stands out though.

    this picture is of Vertical Grimmace's BUSA DR1 w/GTM's cowl
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  3. #578

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    I really like the looks of the GTM cowl.

  4. #579
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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Summer NIce job man , that looks fantastic I like the way you mounted the guns for sure and I like the shorter cowl look also. Sweet
    LIFE IS A DEATH SPIN

  5. #580

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    thx Waldo, but you guys in this thread and Bruno's over on RCSB gave me the input i needed to come up with my own changes
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  6. #581

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    This is for anyone out there starting a new Balsa USA DR1. I am building my second DR1 and decided this time to go through the entire Box labeling Balsa stock. I am amazed at how much time and frustration this is saving. Maybe you guy's already do this or have advised it in the thread so if I am repeating I apologize. On my first build as I worked through the box It became increasingly more frustrating to find the correct piece. So this time I started by measuring and sorting. It took three hours to complete the sort but is making this build much more enjoyable.
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  7. #582

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Summerwind, do you have any pictures of your Nose mod for the GTM cowl. I have looked at a couple options already but I do not want to move the engine aft due to CG.

  8. #583

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Has anyone tried to correct the landing gear on this kit? I know this is sport scale and I'm not trying to nit pick it, but for me BUSA just widens the gear too much, and I'm afraid it would be hard to fix. You could bend it in, but then it might be too tall. Here's full scale...
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  9. #584

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along


    ORIGINAL: roncannell

    Summerwind, do you have any pictures of your Nose mod for the GTM cowl. I have looked at a couple options already but I do not want to move the engine aft due to CG.
    let me take a couple pictures and post for you....basically you just cut 2 rings from 1/4" ply and mount to the nose.
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  10. #585

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along


    ORIGINAL: buzzard bait

    Has anyone tried to correct the landing gear on this kit? I know this is sport scale and I'm not trying to nit pick it, but for me BUSA just widens the gear too much, and I'm afraid it would be hard to fix. You could bend it in, but then it might be too tall. Here's full scale...
    i'm gonna narrow it up a little, but since i want to use this as a trainer for my learning to fly the 1/3 scale DR1, i decided to build the undercarriage about an inch narrower, and bungee'ed (is that a word?)

    the wire can be bent to make it whatever you want though.
    i'm using the aluminum strut material for the legs and will cut the wire as needed like he does on the GTM DR1's.
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  11. #586

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Oh, that's great, I forgot about the GTM method. Using the aluminum tubing you can make it whatever you want. Yeah, it would kind of defeat the training goal if the LG was wide enough to avoid the ground handling problems. Of course I understand that's exactly why BUSA has the wide gear.

    I'm planning on fixing both wheels to the axle on my VK. There's a great idea from a guy on RC Groups for doing it. He epoxied a wheel collar to the inside of each wheel. Then he can attach the wheels to the axle by tightening the wheel collar, but he can still get the wheels off if he needs to. I'm hoping this will really tame the ground looping, while retaining the scale look.

    Jim

  12. #587

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    that landing gear trick is exactly how Lou Proctor descibed it in his N11 kit.

    one thing i am doing to is making another undercarriage that is scale so i can actually learn the DR1 better for TO's and landings.

    one thing BUSA does with this series is they keep it light and very simple so that anyone who can fly a low winger can enjoy their models.
    bashin it has been fun so far, just watchin the weight though, so not gettin too crazy
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  13. #588

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along


    ORIGINAL: roncannell

    Summerwind, do you have any pictures of your Nose mod for the GTM cowl. I have looked at a couple options already but I do not want to move the engine aft due to CG.
    Ron,
    these pictures didn't come out as sharp as i let the camera choose the DOF.....doh, but they should give you the idea.
    first shot is with the first ring installed, and yes i hollow out anything that can be hollowed

    second shot is the front ring and the mounting lugs that the cable pulls down around.

    third shot i was trying to capture the step i am giving the setup so the cowl looks more authentic when it's mounted.
    i also used a piece of 1/8" ply as a faceplate for the cowl to ride against instead of just the balsa as used on the sides if you know what i mean.
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  14. #589

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Summerwind, Thanks for the pictures of your cowl set-up. I have noticed that in a few of the BUSA DR1 builds you guy's are leaving in the forward ply lightning cut outs that are in the fuselage sides. Is this for added strength/weight,both?

  15. #590

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    having to fit the DLE 30 in there required the FW to be moved back 1.75". i felt it needed to be left in there.
    the plywood is so light though i don't see why BUSA doesn't just leave it.........does add strength, and beings this is my first experience with a 1 lung gasser, i would rather have the extra strength in this area. my servos will also be mounted just forward of the lower wing and a lower hatch will be cut out for access in the bottom.
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  16. #591

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Do you intend to Beef-Up the tail surfaces. That has been an area of concern for mine. I see guy's modifying the Rudder but I am more concerned about the Horizontal Stab.

  17. #592

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    i don't see any need to beef up the tail.
    the only change i am making is to replace the 4-40 rods (heavy anyways) with CF tube which is stronger and much lighter.
    the vertical rudder (big as it is) seems very well thought out.
    i replace the aluminum bushing that the 1/8" wire runs thru with brass, and both surfaces are pull/pull.
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  18. #593
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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Summerwind nice job on the cowl mods
    I never knew the Landing gear weren't scale to the model, I read this entire thread when I was building mine so maybe I did know but this feeble mine doesn't recall to many things LOL

    I didn't find it necessary to beef up the tail at all, but I think I would have liked to do the mod where you can bolt on the Stab so you can adjust the incidence if you need to, as I have to fly my mine with some added down elevator and its not tail heavy.

    She still flys beautiful though with the Zenoah 26 and balanced perfectly with no weight needed.

    I like the hatch idea also for access to the servos, and I did make 2 hatches on the under part of the top wing for access to connecting the servo extensions If ever needed.
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  19. #594

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Interesting comment about the need for down trim. If the BUSA kit does not have the positive stab incidence of the full scale then I think it should be modified to have it. I mean anyone still in the building stage.

    Apparently the downwash from three wings with thick airfoils means the air flow over the stab is not what you might think. I believe that is why the Dr.I has 4 or 5 degrees of positive incidence in the stab. It's not just a little bit...it's a LOT.

    The old VK 1/6 scale kit, which I am building, has this positive stab incidence and from all reports flies fine with it. It is also a pretty noticeable scale feature of the original that is easy to incorporate and helps give the right look.

    Jim

  20. #595

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    actually, the plans for the BUSA DR1 leave some to be desired............what looks like a straight line from nose to tail is really not straight at all. in fact, built right off the plans (at least my set) you end up with negative in the stab which cause the climb.
    i redrew mine to have 2* positive, and it looks like i added more because the lines are not straight on the original drawing.
    the wing plans are off too in that one side is longer than the other. in my case the right wing panels were longer by as much as 5/16" on the top, a bit less for the middle and lower.
    being an RC model though, anything can be trimmed out right?
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  21. #596

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    The wings sound like they have kind of tolerances the full scale had! Probably you won't notice it, but I'm surprised it was off that much.

    It's always a question with sport scale types how much you'd have to change it to be satisfied with it. Depending on your purpose the deviations may not matter, but it's nice to know. Reviewers never tell you, so these forums can be a big help.

    Also, in my mind there is a difference between making intentional changes so it will fly better, and just not caring. I think the enlarged rudder has a purpose, given the famously poor ground handling. But the error you reported in the fuselage just seems sloppy. The plane will fly BETTER if the stab incidence is built to scale. And it doesn't make the construction any more difficult.

    Widening the LG is a different issue. I'm sure it helps ground handling, but I decided not to get their Tommy Scout because the gear is so wide it just doesn't look like a Scout to me.

    Jim

  22. #597

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    My DR1 is a climber also. I fly with about 4 clicks of down trim. I thought about the adjustable Stab for this second build, but I would likely go to the trouble and then fly with the permanent trim anyway.
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  23. #598

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    yes the DR1 as built from the BUSA kit can have some wild climb issues if one isn't setting the decalage properly.
    the lower wing is suppose to have about a degree of negative, the middle is 0 incidence, and the plans call out 1-2 degrees of positive for the upper wing..........huh?
    to me it's a which is it question......1 or 2. 1 degree with a huge flat bottom airfoiled wing makes a big difference..............that and if the lower wing is set with the required 1 degree negative spells loop city[:-]. especially since in reallity, the stab is not flat to the center wing.

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  24. #599

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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along


    ORIGINAL: roncannell

    My DR1 is a climber also. I fly with about 4 clicks of down trim. I thought about the adjustable Stab for this second build, but I would likely go to the trouble and then fly with the permanent trim anyway.
    build in some positive in the stab.........
    however, the screw fastening idea is great if you can afford the extra weight in the tail.
    i'm still tossing it around myself, but need to see how this thing balances with the DLE 30 i'm using which is lighter than the G26.
    seems it may not be as critical though as one guy on here just finished his and is using an OS 1.20AX and said it balanced perfectly. kinda boggles ones mind as that engine is even lighter yet.
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  25. #600
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    RE: Fokker DRI Build Along

    Yes it does boggle the mind for sure, and If i did it over again the only change i would make is the positive incidence in the stab, and not that I really need to as I said, I just love the way mine flys even if there are a few clicks of down elevator on it, so I'm sure just about 2 or 3 degrees would make it trim out perfectly on mine anyway.

    I never even noticed if one end of the wing was longer then the other, as a good friend of mine started the build and then moved so he couldn't finish it, so I bought it off him and finished what little there was to do on the wings and then built everything else. I tell you it flys like a dream. I was able to finally talk my friend into flying it as he built the wings but he didn't want to crash it. I begged him for weeks to give it a shot, as soon as he had the sticks he was glad he tried. and flew it around for a while. I was happy he did that I know he was too lol
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